Quoted from MT45:Amen and no complaints. The ranch work never ends but it’s outdoors and I love it
40 acres...I'm so jealous 
I feel the same, but my yard is only about 2 acres. About 1/3rd is woods. But even that little slice of earth can keep me busy at times. Treadmill - not happening. But no problems spending the entire weekend doing hard yard work. I tell people it keeps me young and will kill me at the same time.
Progress update:
1) Sheetrock is finished in Pinball loft
2) First coat of paint is on in whole house
3) 3/4" plywood added to sleeping/lounging/bunk area up in the Pinball loft in order to run my cedar boards vertical in that area
4) Picked up a gallon of flat dark brown paint to paint walls behind my cedar boards
5) Picked up the finish boards (casing) for the sleeping/lounging/bunk area
The finish boards are INSANE expensive - a 12' x 6" cedar board was $36 at Home Depot and I needed 2 of them because the loft area I'm framing is 10' 2" long , so the 10' board would not work 
6) The knotty hickory kitchen cabinets are in
7) The knotty alder interior doors are in
8) Our trim guy is moved in and already has some of the craftsman style trim completed - there will be no crown and baseboard will be simple 1x
9) Stonework is finally completed - had to wait for framers to build an arch at the entry so stone could be hung on it
10) Exterior hardiboard is finished
11) Electrical connection to house (from junction) was run/connected today
12) Garage doors have been installed (x3 as there are 2 double/large in front and a single in the back for UTV)
13) New game room layout due to 3 new machines in last 2 weeks!! 
Next for me this weekend is to get the brown paint on the walls, then frame out the sleeping loft, then hang my cedar boards
Pics of finished drywall
IMG_4624 (resized).JPGIMG_4625 (resized).JPGIMG_4626 (resized).JPGIMG_4627 (resized).JPG
Now some pics of the plywood install into the sleeping loft
IMG_4707 (resized).JPGIMG_4704 (resized).JPG
Knotty Hickory kitchen cabs
IMG_4713 (resized).JPGIMG_4715 (resized).JPGIMG_4714 (resized).JPG
Craftsman trim - Pinball loft will be trimmed same way, these are images from the main floor of the house.
The casing is all Poplar but when complete both woods will be stained to match
IMG_4717 (resized).JPGIMG_4718 (resized).JPGIMG_4716 (resized).JPG
Garage doors, Stonework and shot of the Pinball loft above (windows above are in Pinball room)
IMG_4710 (resized).JPGIMG_4712 (resized).JPG
Knotty alder doors - love this wood character
IMG_4649 (2) (resized).JPG
New Gameroom layout ... added Harlem Globetrotters, Wipe Out and Volcano
IMG_4703 (resized).JPG
Quoted from ReadyPO:Beautiful kitchen cabinets!
Thx - normally that stuff doesn't get me too excited but I love raw wood and the cabs along the wall will be covered in black granite that has been "leathered" to remove the gloss. I'm eager to see that!
Update. 12 hours today framing the sleeping area up in the Pinball room with cedar and adding the cedar board to the walls. I am unbelievably sore but got it done. Started at 6:30 am painting the walls dark brown, then framing the opening, then trimming each end, marking the studs and finally adding the cedar boards.
E340638C-7BCE-408D-8844-7C02B8AA8869 (resized).jpeg67330A7D-81AD-44D6-9CBB-699D010D4FA9 (resized).jpeg3543B863-BD93-4336-9903-A5915E9232F7 (resized).jpegD1EBB77F-8283-43AF-9A9B-38F62363B9C5 (resized).jpegA7C2E79A-4193-4FBA-A663-2DBFE8DC0CB7 (resized).jpeg061A901E-2A6A-458F-8810-E345FE4E897B (resized).jpeg4C6844CA-57C1-4D67-A2A6-8729786B6F07 (resized).jpeg5EDD1296-24DE-4C42-B5EE-689F53B1AE6C (resized).jpegC641A728-A205-4F51-A54C-E73B748738C3 (resized).jpegF64D6DFB-2934-4E97-A7F4-36CD0A2EA0E3 (resized).jpeg
More progress. Doesn't look like much but moving 5,000 pounds of laminate flooring from my pole barn to the Loft pinball room (upstairs) was a killer
Chris and I hauled it over there in my pickup in 3 loads. 26 pounds per package and around 15 steps each way. Sore and tired.
Now that it's in the room with the AC on, I can start laying it in 48 hours.
Oh, picked up a nice Gottlieb Volcano this AM as well.
IMG_4685 (resized).jpg
House progess:
Electric is on
AC is on
Lots of doors and windows cased
Countertops are measured
Tub's and sinks are here
Shooting for end of August for move in
IMG_4775 (resized).JPGIMG_4776 (resized).JPGMemorial Day update. Up at 6:30 and off to Home Depot for some 1/2” spacers. Started laying the flooring today. Spent the first 3 hours just prepping the floor. Had to reseat 30% of the screws as they sat proud by 1 to 2mm. Also had to grind down a few seams that were not level to each other. Finally had to scrape off any globe of flooring adhesive- there were quite a few. Mashed my finger with a framing hammer right away. Ouch.
Got around 400 square feet put down. 1,100 square feet to go!
19DAADE3-9963-4625-9933-B2AB436A479B (resized).jpeg204AFEF8-D502-4FAC-8F41-AC6CF44442ED (resized).jpeg498EBC31-CD6F-420E-994D-8E963A77B87D (resized).jpeg561683F1-C55E-4B55-B431-F060D5080840 (resized).jpeg7013C1D1-F4F4-4F01-B468-C800D06AE557 (resized).jpeg7E987759-B4A8-428A-8FCA-5E6B7405EA58 (resized).jpeg86F108C4-77C5-42B8-ACA1-C53D4E55EC19 (resized).jpeg9ABD116D-B4FC-401E-887A-43FF91C457D5 (resized).jpegB00E0323-B3CB-468A-8257-F45D662AA04E (resized).jpegBBA00F78-BE2A-48F1-A341-45DFA513A7EE (resized).jpegQuoted from ReadyPO:Floor looks great! Is there a vapor barrier built into the planks?
I thought you had to lay down a thin layer of foam padding first, like 1/16 inch. 
Quoted from MustangPaul:I thought you had to lay down a thin layer of foam padding first, like 1/16 inch.
It probably has a foam backer already on each plank
Quoted from ReadyPO:Floor looks great! Is there a vapor barrier built into the planks?
Good question. The 2mm foam cushion that is normally laid first (usually comes in rolls) is already glued to the back of each piece. Saves about 2 hours maybe on the entire install.
A vapor barrier is something else entirely but is not needed in this install. Vapor barriers are called for when installing over concrete or an unconditioned crawl space.
This floor is installed over my garage and is separated by the Advantech, then R13 insulation, then about another foot of dead air space, then 5/8" sheetrock (ceiling of garage)
On another note and critically important is the spacing gap of 1/2" that I left all the way around the perimeter. The max run size without using a transition piece is 40 feet, and my run is 46 feet in one direction, so I left an extra 1/8" on top of the manufacturer recommended 3/8". A floor this size will move quite a bit based on the room RH so gapping at every wall, door, corner, etc. is super important.
Quoted from JayDee:It probably has a foam backer already on each plank
Bingo!
This all looks very nice.
You need an elevator. The size of your construction supports having some sort of elevator at hand.
Maybe convert and modify an automotive lift to elevator duty. Add a floor on the lift, a safety cage/switches, and a couple of pinball dollys and nothing can stop you from moving all the pins you want.
Tuxedo-Service-Storage-Four-Post-Car-Lift-8000-lb-FP8K-DX (resized).jpg
t-alignment-lift (resized).jpg
Quoted from cottonm4:This all looks very nice.
You need an elevator. The size of your construction supports having some sort of elevator at hand.
Maybe convert and modify an automotive lift to elevator duty. Add a floor on the lift, a safety cage/switches, and a couple of pinball dollys and nothing can stop you from moving all the pins you want.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Great minds think alike... I have a lift planned "if" I need it. See pic of back of house.
That elevated deck is 10x12 and I'm leaving space next to it for an outdoor lift
For now my new Escalera from Zach at Flip N Out is my way up!
IMG_4801 (resized).jpgAnother couple hundred square feet put down tonight after work.
Had to figure out how to handle floor outlets in a floating laminate floor system.
Hardwood is easy. Mount it to the hardwood using supplied screws all the way into the subflooring ... but a floating floor cannot be locked in place anywhere so ...
I decided to recess the mounting flanges for the metal box so that the floor can easily move/shift above it as needed, then simply mount the fixture cover to the laminate flooring only. This allows the cover to move independently from the fixture as needed based on room RH and temperature.
Simple solution but had to go in opposite direction of manufacturerer instructions so I needed to pause a bit to figure it out!
I LOVE these in floor fixtures cause:
- They were under $50
- You can get them at Home Depot
- The plug portion stays UNDER the floor level to prevent damage
- They are very easy to install
- They include a template
IMG_4802 (resized).JPGIMG_4803 (resized).JPGI know that for most of you that watching me put this floor in is like watching a car rust. It feels like slow going to me too, but we got another 200 square feet down again tonight.
The only way in now is up an extension ladder on my back deck because the tile guys are working the lower landing - tough way for me to get to work each night!
Hardest part was toting the ladder from my pole barn an eighth of a mile away. 4 wheel hay cart worked
Other house progress:
Hardwood flooring delivered
Tile work started
Knotty pine installed on front porch
Fireplace boxed in
IMG_4804 (resized).JPGIMG_4805 (resized).JPGIMG_4806 (resized).JPGIMG_4807 (resized).JPGIMG_4809 (resized).JPGIMG_4812 (resized).JPG
IMG_4808 (resized).JPGGood eye... it's tall like a Rumford, but it's made by Isokern. Probably the number one maker of modular "build on site" fireplaces
It's the Magnum 42 model and is one of their big ones
Advantages over 100% masonry on site? No poured pier foundation needed, no stone chimney needed and no super specialized knowledge needed to build on site
Comes with herringbone tile and cast iron flue too
We are adding a solid maple 8x10" mantel and the entire face of the fireplace up to the roof deck will be stone (same stacked stone as outside of house)
Hearth will be slab stones
IMG_3976 (resized).JPGIMG_2379 (resized).jpgIMG_2388 (resized).jpg
Had not heard of Isokern. Beautiful Fireplace, looks like advantages of a metal box fireplace with the beauty of real masonry.
Quoted from MT45:Another couple hundred square feet put down tonight after work.
Had to figure out how to handle floor outlets in a floating laminate floor system.
Hardwood is easy. Mount it to the hardwood using supplied screws all the way into the subflooring ... but a floating floor cannot be locked in place anywhere so ...
I decided to recess the mounting flanges for the metal box so that the floor can easily move/shift above it as needed, then simply mount the fixture cover to the laminate flooring only. This allows the cover to move independently from the fixture as needed based on room RH and temperature.
Simple solution but had to go in opposite direction of manufacturerer instructions so I needed to pause a bit to figure it out!
I LOVE these in floor fixtures cause:
- They were under $50
- You can get them at Home Depot
- The plug portion stays UNDER the floor level to prevent damage
- They are very easy to install
- They include a template[quoted image][quoted image]
When your doing it yourself it's slow going, I did all the interior work on my 24x36 garage/shop/gameroom II. Sure wish I could redo it, I have good ways to make it better. LOL
Flooring is done! Pic of me putting in very last piece. Was dark so pic is not so good.
Took some pics today after shop vacuuming and then swiftering the entire floor
Burned all 145 empty boxes
IMG_4816 (resized).JPGIMG_4820 (resized).JPGIMG_4822 (resized).JPGIMG_4823 (resized).JPGIMG_4824 (resized).JPGIMG_4826 (resized).JPGIMG_4827 (resized).JPGIMG_4829 (resized).JPGIMG_4831 (resized).JPGIMG_4832 (resized).JPGIMG_4833 (resized).JPGIMG_4834 (resized).JPGQuoted from bangerjay:She’s a beaut
Clark
It is hard to not envy and covet what you are building 
It is impressive.
Way back in one of your early post you put up some blueprints.
In one of those prints you have a bonus area and a gator area?
What is this gator area, please?
Quoted from cottonm4:It is hard to not envy and covet what you are building
It is impressive.
Way back in one of your early post you put up some blueprints.
In one of those prints you have a bonus area and a gator area?
What is this gator area, please?
Sure. Good question. The garage is essentially a front/back 8 stall. We literally poured a monolithic cement pad that is about 50' x 40'
Inside that footprint on top of the slab, we built 2 rooms (theater and massage/sauna room) - those rooms took up the space of 3 stalls
That leaves 4 stalls on one side and just one on the back and ...THAT stall is for the UTV ( gator) and in this case mine is a Kawasaki Pro-XT Ranch edition
It's a 4WD beast that seats 6 (theater style in the back so you sit higher than front row and can see - like a safari vehicle)
We use the Kawasaki to go get the mail (about 1/4 mile to the mailbox) and to tour the property, check fencing, change batteries in game cameras, etc.
It will be parked where the "X" is on the blueprint. It has it's own 1 stall door
The bonus area on the print is actually the pinball room where I just put down the flooring
Screenshot_20190602-162219_Chrome (resized).jpgIMG_2496(1) (resized).jpgIMG_2497(1) (resized).jpgMaking some progress - more on remainder of house than in pinball room, but all of it counts towards getting in soon.
---
Some pics - the view out the pinball room on the southwest side is of a beautiful black walnut tree
Sheds walnuts like crazy too
---
Notes:
Hardwood is about 50% completed - character grade white oak. We specifically asked for this wood. Wormy, knotty, etc.
Love this look - wish it was easier to get character grade in longer lengths but it still looks great finished - wife and I went to see an installed version and love it
Tile is about half done - master bath to go yet. Picture is guest bath and small window overlooks the horse paddocks
Trim is 90% + and looking good
Counter tops come in next week
Office and custom cabinets come in next week
---
Bought 4 more games - just to make sure we are full on "opening day"
IMG_4885 (resized).JPGIMG_4886 (resized).JPGIMG_4870 (resized).JPGIMG_4871 (resized).JPGIMG_4872 (resized).JPGIMG_4938 (resized).JPGIMG_4939 (resized).JPGIMG_4940 (resized).JPGIMG_4941 (resized).JPGIMG_4942 (resized).JPGSpent some time folding up the games in prep for the big move into the new gameroom. These are just a few of the games I've kept in play instead of storage since starting the new build but it's time for even these to get folded up. For now only TSPP remains set up in the upstairs area.
After moving/folding these, I'm getting worried for the physical effort ahead of me on moving day
IMG_4944 (resized).JPGLots of activity as we close in on our move in date. Looks like 3rd week of August.
It's insane here with a million decisions being made and the house full of contractors, including myself!
Let's see ... countertops are on, backsplash is done, closets are being built out, all tile work is complete too
Front and rear porches have pine bead board installed on ceilings
Next set of pics are pinball room related.
IMG_4969 (resized).JPGIMG_4970 (resized).JPGIMG_4971 (resized).JPGIMG_4972 (resized).JPGIMG_4988 (resized).JPGIMG_4974 (resized).JPGIMG_4979 (resized).JPGIMG_4981 (resized).JPGIMG_4985 (resized).JPGIMG_4989 (resized).JPGIMG_4990 (resized).JPGIMG_4976 (resized).JPGIMG_4975 (resized).JPGBuilt the loft ladder this morning.
Used 4x4 Douglas fir and 2" poplar dowels as stock
Drilled the 4x4s about 3/4" deep using a forstner bit, then added lots of glue
The 2" dowel stock I got at Home Depot was not 2", it was 2 & 1/32". With a bit as precise as the forstner, there was no way they would fit.
I took each dowel over to my grinder and removed that 1/32" by rotating it lightly on the wheel. Worked like a charm!
Only issue I had was with my POS Ryobi drill press. After the 3rd hole it really struggled to keep the bit turning and by hole 5, was about useless.
I drilled the remaining holes freehand
I'll install the ladder tonight or tomorrow. It will be a wall mount, no angle. The climb is only about 5'
Next series of pics will be the pinball lift I built immediately after the ladder ...
IMG_5008 (resized).JPGIMG_5011 (resized).JPGIMG_5009 (resized).JPGIMG_5012 (resized).JPGIMG_5010 (resized).JPGIMG_5014 (resized).JPGIMG_5013 (resized).JPGNow, onto the pinball lift! First, I used plans for this at this awesome site:
https://www.jeff-z.com/pinball/lift/index.html
I saw this page ages ago and it just looked a little to McGyver to build ... but with a 40+ pin move ahead of me ... well, let's just say I got motivated to find the easiest way to set up/take down a pin! I am pretty good at doing it alone even now. Add front legs, tilt toward yourself until front legs hit BUT it's right at this spot that it gets hard. You got to slip your hands into the wire passage in the cabinet, grab the edges and lift until you can get your hands under the cabinet. Then maneuver your 4x4 post (or whatever you use) under the cab to support it while you add the rear legs. It's the same issue during test down but in reverse.
This tool eliminates that pain point entirely by using an RV stabilizer Jack to do the lifting or setting down - very cool
I ordered everything from Amazon
Jack here
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JMHHNIO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00
Adapter for drill here
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001V8U12M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00
Got the aluminum angle stock at HD
I had 3/4" plywood on hand to cut 3 pieces at 12x12x12"
I used my redneck compass (string on a pencil) to cut my radius into each of the side boards
On top of the Jack, I drilled a hole to store that drill adapter or I knew I'd never find the darn thing
I have not wrangled a game with it yet but boy does that drill make the Jack move in a hurry! You'll want to have your 2 speed drill on low
My daughters boyfriend grabbed the new Jack while he was helping me and said as dry as you possibly can "Jack-in-the-box" 
IMG_5015 (resized).JPGIMG_5016 (resized).JPGIMG_5017 (resized).JPGIMG_5021 (resized).JPGIMG_5018 (resized).JPGIMG_5020 (resized).JPGIMG_5022 (resized).JPGIMG_5019 (resized).JPGIMG_5025 (resized).JPGIMG_5024 (resized).JPGIMG_5023 (resized).JPG
Quoted from Vyzer2:You’re a real master craftsman. Great work and fun to follow!
Why thanks!
Quoted from Indypin:Just saw this thread. Man what an awesome set up. Congratulations on all your hard work. You and your family certainly deserve this. BTW, I'm open for adoption.
No more kids in the plans but always up for a visit from another Pinhead when in the area. Love to share whenever I can
Just caught up on the thread - coming along nicely!
Hopefully we can get back over there and check it out one day.
Gotta get back to Dollywood and check out that new wooden coaster too.
rd
Quoted from rotordave:Just caught up on the thread - coming along nicely!
Hopefully we can get back over there and check it out one day.
Gotta get back to Dollywood and check out that new wooden coaster too.
rd
LOVE that coaster. Was on it right after it opened. Very cool.
You know the door is always open here for you and the family - anytime.
Finally resolved the challenge I had to protect my new floor. It literally took 3 months of on and off of researching and asking for advice but at long last I think I've got the best solution for me. The below thread was my ask here on Pinside for help:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gameroom-floor-protection
Here is what I'm going with:
New leg leveler feet where the old ones might need replacing
https://www.pinballlife.com/heavy-duty-leg-leveler-with-nut.html
Under the leg leveler, adding the wonderful casters from Pinball Life
These stay attached to the leveler even if you pick up the game - a huge win
https://www.pinballlife.com/perfectplay-silicone-leg-leveler-casters-set-of-4.html
Under those, a great product I purchased from Amazon. It's got EVA foam on one side and felt on the other
They work felt side down to protect the new floor and the EVA foam (although there is no adhesive) "sticks" to the Pinball Life silicone casters
They are just a smidge smaller in diameter than the Pinball Life casters but they work great (see pics)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0772JMYJ1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00
On the hardwood floors where I've tested this set up, I can easily pull a game away from the wall with minimal effort AND the games stay put when playing
I'm super pleased with the results!
Pics of the silicone casters from Pinball Life sitting on the counter (all 180 of them!)
IMG_5040 (resized).JPGIMG_5042 (resized).JPGIMG_5043 (resized).JPGIMG_5044 (resized).JPGIMG_5047 (resized).JPGIMG_5048 (resized).JPGIMG_5049 (resized).JPGIMG_5050 (resized).JPGIMG_5052 (resized).JPGIMG_5053 (resized).JPGPooped. Got some house stuff done and some ranch work too
Wife and I laid in 150 feet of railroad ties. Oh boy ... 300 lbs each
Had to load them in the tractor bucket, move to location, pound out the old rebar pins, then level the ground, then set and re-drive the rebar pins.
These are the retaining wall perimeter for our newly expanded riding ring. We expanded the ring by about 20 feet in each direction.
Doesn't seem like much but it took more than 25 truck loads of fill dirt!
By the time I had lifted, loaded, moved and dragged 15 of these 10 foot ties, I was cooked
Wife had to drive all the new rebar pins - did a great job too
--
Made some more progress on the house too by testing some stain colors
Whatever color we choose for the knotty alder doors I will use to stain the cedar in the pinball room
I knew this would be hard because we have: stained cabinets, flooring, trim, doors and casings - gotta come up with a mix or variety that works for all
Even more challenging because of the variety of wood species: hickory, white oak, knotty alder, poplar
Consulting with designer on Monday
IMG_5055 (resized).JPGIMG_5062 (resized).JPGIMG_5057 (resized).JPGIMG_5060 (resized).JPGIMG_5061 (resized).JPG
IMG_5029 (resized).JPGIMG_5026 (resized).JPGIMG_201906231511352 (resized).JPGQuoted from MT45:--
Made some more progress on the house too by testing some stain colors
Whatever color we choose for the knotty alder doors I will use to stain the cedar in the pinball room
How about a light gray stain to go with the wall and counter top? Would provide some additional contrast.
Quoted from mbwalker:How about a light gray stain to go with the wall and counter top? Would provide some additional contrast.
Funny, wife and I were talking about that option today! Great thought
Ok. Couldn't finish the weekend without mounting that ladder!
Bought some 3/8" x 8 inch long industrial size hex head screws at HD
Drilled the ladder 4x4s halfway through with a 7/8" forstner bit, then remainder with a 3/8" spade
Cut some blocks of the left over Douglas fir to use as spacers behind it, the drilled those blocks straight thru with a 3/8" forstner bit
Then leveled and marked where my 8 inch screws would hit the 2x6 that is buried in the framing behind the cedar
Next I cut a 3/8" hole in the cedar to allow the 8 inch screw to pass until I hit the buried 2x6, then a simple 3/16" pilot hole after that to stop the 2x6 from splitting as that large screw entered
It all mounted up nicely and, as you can see, my better half climbed up and claimed it as hers!
You'll notice I decided to move the acess ladder to the side rather than the middle - this leaves more usable wall space
IMG_5070 (resized).JPGIMG_5064 (resized).JPGIMG_5065 (resized).JPGIMG_5066 (resized).JPGIMG_5067 (resized).JPGIMG_5072 (resized).JPGAwesome room and looking forward to seeing the end result, I admire individuals with your skills, great work!
Now how soon can my son and I come stay in the sleeping loft?
A bit more progress tonight. I'm getting ready to hang the perimeter LEDs and will need a molding to hold/shield them from direct view.
I used crown in my last house and it worked great. This home is farmhouse style and I want to avoid crown at all costs so ...
I got an idea from a contractor friend of mine to RIP 8 foot sheets of MDF into strips, then router using a rabbet bit to create the 1/2" channel needed for the LEDs
So far, so good!
Instead of full (and awkward) 8 foot sheets, I bought 12" wide x 8 foot long planks of MDF, then ripped to to 2.75"
Got them all done tonight 175 linear feet ready for my router
Hope to have them all routed this weekend
New_LEDTRIM (resized).JPGIMG_5103 (resized).JPGIMG_5104 (resized).JPGIMG_5106 (resized).JPG
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gameroom-advice/page/2?hl=todd969 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Lenoir City, TN
Palm Beach