(Topic ID: 153786)

Game Room Build Thread


By Spyderturbo007

4 years ago



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    21
    #1 4 years ago

    I thought I would throw up a thread on my game room build. My wife and I bought our second house back in July and I took reign over the basement. She got the house, I got the 3 car garage and the basement. We agreed that I could do anything I wanted down there and she wouldn't complain. If I wanted to finish it and paint the walls purple, I had her approval.

    My dad and I have done all the work ourselves and started back in October. We've been working on it almost every weekend for the last 4 months or so. Prior to beginning this build, I had never cut a 2x4 in half, let alone attempted HVAC, Plumbing, Electrical, etc. I had fielded a few quotes for having someone else finish the basement, but they all came in at $20,000+ for just framing, drywall and rough in electric / plumbing. That was without doing the theater, which if anyone here has built one, is an animal in itself.

    Anyway, I spent $100 on what the guy calls a "basement finishing system". It comes with streaming videos, a material & tools list and email support if you have any questions. I figured what the hell, I'll give it a shot. Sat down for a few weeks watching video, after video, after video. You should see my notepad.

    I figured either I was going to do it myself and save a ton of money, or I would crash and burn and have to pay someone to do it anyway. The only work I'm not planning to do myself is the drywall and the actual termination to the breaker box. There is no way I'm getting my hands in there.

    On to the pictures!

    Here is my blank slate. I bought a cheap program and started the design process. The hard part was trying to make it look like a living space and not a basement. I didn't want to see any of the columns and wanted the walls to hide everything without having to work around obstacles. There were some plumbing stacks against the walls, but instead of going around them, I made the decision to kick the entire wall out about a foot and make it one continuous wall.

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    Here are the original plans. Things have changed slightly, but not a lot. I removed the shower from the bathroom (who the hell takes a shower in the basement anyway) and expanded the utility room where the shower would have went for a media closet. That will house all the equipment to run the basement audio/video.

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    I guess we need some lumber...

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    What a pain in the ass carrying down all these 2x4s!

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    Lumber....Check
    Tools....Check

    Now it's time to try building a wall.

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    If I remember correctly, this was the end of day 1.

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    This is a few weeks later after all the framing had been completed, the outlets were run and most of the lighting was wired. The theater is lagging behind because of the soundproofing. Ever penetration in the drywall has to be treated, so that means all lighting needs to be housed in a backer box.

    Here is the theater:

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    Bathroom, which is also serving as the tool storage room. We got tired of walking all over the place trying to find things.

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    This is the bar build. It's a 2 tiered bar, with the framing representing the higher tier. The lower tier will be base cabinets. It's a full wet bar. The front of the bar is going to be covered with reclaimed barn wood and the pillars will be boxed in to make columns which are going to get stone.

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    A few weeks ago, right after we got 32" of snow, we had some really heavy rains. I walked downstairs to find this.

    Turns out there were two issues. One is a crack the entire height of the foundation and the other is that there is no grade away from the house. There was a pond outside that wall. So I need to get some dirt in there to grade it away from the house. I also purchased an epoxy repair system to fix the crack.

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    Better to find out now than when the drywall is up.

    I'm going to have my electrician wire up the breaker box. I did everything else, but don't want to go messing around in there. They show you how to do it in the video series, but I'm not really interested in trying it out.

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    There will be a total of 5 TVs outside the theater. Each TV gets an HDMI, two Cat 6 drops and a 3.5mm audio cable. I'm wiring up the entire basement for distributed audio and video. A/V will be served using a NUC running the Kodi software. Kodi will grab media from my 12TB unRAID server. I'll be able to switch audio in multiple zones in the basement depending on what I want to listen to or watch. The 3.5mm audio cable will serve as an IR carrier. I'll be controlling everything with a RF remote so I won't have to walk around to each TV when I want to change a TV channel.

    The two Cat 6 drops are for either future use, or a fail safe in case something happens to the HDMI cable. The HDMI cables are expensive for long runs (~$100/cable) but Cat 6 is dirt cheap. If needed, I can run HDMI over Cat 6, or just leave them in the wall for later.

    Here is some of the low voltage. I still have to wire the entire theater and am waiting for another 500' of speaker wire to get delivered.

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    Here is the game room as it sits right now. I got a drywall quote for the basement last week for $6800. Everything but the theater is almost ready. I have to run the wire for a few speakers and put in the return ducts. Once that's done, I can have the main part of the basement drywalled. The theater comes later. I'm doing the full soundproofing deal, so that room gets decoupled walls & ceilings, along with a double layer of 5/8" drywall that sandwiches a dampening compound. All the lighting and speakers need backer boxes, and electrical boxes need to be acoustically sealed.

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    #4 4 years ago
    Quoted from jedimastermatt:

    Looking good. What are you going to use for A/V in the theater?

    Thanks!

    I'm going to go with a JVC DLA-RS400U projector and all the speakers will be Goldenear. I'm planning on a 7.1.4 Atmos setup, most likely powered by a Denon receiver. All media will be handled by Kodi and the unRAID server.

    I'm probably going to go with a 120" AT Seymour screen. I haven't decided on 16:9 or 2.37 yet, but I'm leaning towards 2.37.

    Quoted from TheLaw:

    Sweeeet! Love these threads. So fun when it's at this stage, sometimes I wish I was starting all over again.

    Ha, no I don't, it gets rough as it goes on

    Don't say that....I was hoping it gets easier.

    #9 4 years ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    VERY well thought out. Now what have you been thinking for flooring and ceilings in the different sections?

    Thank you. It's freakin' hard to try and think 7 steps ahead all the time. All the ceilings are going to be drywall. The only thing special I'm planning is crown molding in the theater that will hide rope lighting. I wanted to do that in the game room, but it really isn't an option because of the exterior door and the 2 windows. I'm thinking of a black velvet on the underside and face of the soffit in front of the screen. I think that would make the soffit disappear into nothingness.

    The theater is actually laid out opposite of how it's show in the plans. There wasn't going to be enough head room for a riser and the soffit if I had it the other way.

    The theater gets a subfloor first (most likely dri-core), then a riser for the second row of seating and then carpet. I'm thinking black / gray with burgundy and gray walls. Ceilings will be black. I'm planning 4 very shallow pillars to hide speakers and house sconces.

    Tile for the bathroom and I want engineered hardwood for the pool table and bar area. The problem is laying hardwood over concrete. I could outfit the entire basement with a subfloor, but that would add another $4,000 to the cost of the flooring. I haven't made a solid decision on that yet.

    Short nap carpet in the game room. The stuff in the bedroom upstairs where the games are now is too long. It makes it hard to do death saves.

    Quoted from Deaconblooze:

    What kind of fish do you have? I would love to have a space like that for a fish room, I'm interested to hear what you have planned for that. Are you putting a show tank somewhere?

    Right now I have a 55g in my living room. I have a pair of Snowflake clowns, a 2-spot Bristletooth Tang and a female Banggai Cardinalfish. Up until last thursday, there was a male and a female, but the male decided one day to stop eating. Despite me efforts to try every food on the planet, he just wouldn't eat and died. I still don't know what happened. He was 3 years old and nothing in the tank has changed since we moved 8 months ago.

    The plan is for an 8' reef tank to be built in the fish room wall. The fish room will allow me to house the life support system for the tank, as opposed to having to lug 5g buckets up and down the steps all the time. It's going to be awhile before I can get to that, so I'm just going to drywall the wall for now and then rip it out in a year or two when I'm ready for the tank.

    #10 4 years ago
    Quoted from FalconDriver:

    Two row seating with six electric recliners.

    My room is going to end up being about 11' 4" wide after IB clips, channel and the double drywall. It's going to be a challenge to get all 6 seats in there, but I think a narrower walkway is worth the trade off for the 6 seats. I would have made the room bigger, but I was stuck because of the poles holding up the house.

    Quoted from FalconDriver:

    I don't know how high your finished ceiling will be but remember if you are planning stepping up your chairs
    in rear row.

    Finished height should be able 7' 4" and I'm planning on a 10" riser. So it will be close, but I don't think it will be a problem. I can always cut down on the riser once I find out how much room I actually have.

    Quoted from FalconDriver:

    With mine I'm worried how low the projector will hang and will sit just above
    second row.

    I would recommend you put it right above the seat back of the second row. It might technically be low enough to hit your head on, but if it's above the seat back, you won't be able to hit your head on it because of the way you naturally stand up and sit down. That's my plan. I don't know if I'll need a hush box or not...

    #24 4 years ago

    Thanks everyone for the great comments. I'll have more to share on Monday after a weekend of work. The plan this weekend is the rest of the speaker wire, boxes for the windows, and maybe start insulating the outside walls everywhere but the theater. I also ordered some decoupling isolators for the theater but I have to cut an inch off of 3 walls before I can install them. That's what happens when you don't even think of soundproofing before you start building walls.

    Oh well, live and learn.

    Quoted from t2:

    From the nice looking work I would have never guessed you have no experience. I'm sure your dad has some experience?

    He does, but the funny thing is that he's providing labor and very limited advice. Apparently he decided that he was going to let me make all the decisions and not interfere unless absolutely necessary.

    Quoted from Deaconblooze:

    trying to figure out how best to do maintenance (I don't have a sink in my basement at the moment)

    Not having a sink near the tank is going to be a pain, but I've been dealing with it for the last 3 years. Just buy a lot of buckets.

    When I finally get around to getting the tank, the plan is to automate as much as possible with my Neptune Apex and a Genesis water change system. Add that to some Neptune Dos pumps for Ca, Alk & Mg and there won't be too much to do other than enjoy the tank, feed the fish / coral and clean the glass.

    #25 4 years ago

    We put in about 6 hours on Saturday and about 7 hours on Sunday. A good bit of it was trying to button the odds and ends up and get ready for drywall.

    I ran another 1000' of cable, pre-wiring for 6 speakers in the game room, 4 in the soffit in the bar area and another 4 in the pool room area. I decided to run a 3rd Cat 6 drop to each TV just in case. It's about $0.12/ft to run, so for a few dollars a TV, I'll have another wire, just in case.

    I haven't decided which distributed audio system I'll be using, but I also pulled some Cat 6 to 3 different places for Volume Source Controls (VSC). For those of you that have never seen them, they are small, single gang key pads that allow you to control both the volume and audio source in a defined zone. So there will be one for the game room, one for the pool room and one for the bar. That way, you can listen to one thing in the game room and a different source in the pool room.

    VSC_(resized).jpg

    I made the decision to insulate the basement even though there was blanket wrap on the walls. The blanket wrap has an R-10 value, whereas code in my area is for living spaces to have an R-13 value. We threw on some Tyvex suits, masks and gloves and went to work. The entire game room, minus a spot here or there is done. I took the pictures Saturday evening, so it doesn't show all the progress.

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    We also decided to tackle that pesky crack in the wall and did a foundation inspection to make sure there weren't any other ones that needed addressed. I decided to go with an epoxy injection system, as opposed to just some normal caulk. It was much more expensive, but I think it's more solid that the rest of the wall.

    Interesting system. You had to clean the crack and then install injection ports that lined up with the center of the crack every 6". You attached them with a 2-part epoxy that needed to be mixed. After letting them set up, you mixed up the rest of the epoxy and covered the entire crack from floor to ceiling. In the video, they wanted it between 1/8 - 1/4". Once that hardened, you started at the bottom and injected the second epoxy until it started running out the hole above where you started. You cap that port and then continue the process all the way up the wall to the top. After 24 hours, this thing is as hard as a rock. It says you can remove the ports with a chisel, but I really don't see the need. I'm just going to cover it back up with the blanket wrap.

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    We had a hot water fitting at the bar that was seeping. It was probably a drop every 24 hours. After ripping it apart 3 times and wrenching on it as hard as we could, we decided to replace the nipple and the 1/2" drop ear. It's not leaking anymore. The bar is also ready for drywall on the inside and we have the plywood on the face ready for the reclaimed lumber.

    There are also 3 outlets that tie in with the GFI circuit from the bathroom.

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    There were a few boards that had twisted we cut out and replaced, and we needed to remove some nailers in the theater. I misunderstood the conversation I had with the soundproofing company and started the decoupling incorrectly. I had to purchase some IB-3 brackets and directly decouple the walls from the floor joists. Thank goodness there is only one wall that needs to be cut shorter. The others were just attached every so often to the joists with small nailers. We started cutting them out and replacing them with the clips.

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    We have some more insulation to hang in the non-theater areas and I have to build the rail system for the steps. We cut out part of the wall, to open that side of the steps to the room. After that is done and the circuits are wired to the panel, we need to rip out the old lighting circuits and we'll be ready for drywall!

    1 week later
    #28 4 years ago

    Weekend basement update.

    We didn't get a lot done this weekend, since we only worked on Sunday. I started a monthly pinball tournament where we have leagues, so I took Saturday off. Gotta' have priorities.

    Needed to make two trips to Home Depot on Sunday which chewed up some of the day. I forgot the damn caulk for the Thermopan so we had to go back.

    Anyway, we ran another 20A circuit to the equipment room. I had initially planned on a single 20A, but that's before I decided to do audio in all the other rooms. Throw a few amps on there along with all the rest of the stuff for the theater and I didn't think 20A would cut it.

    Finished tying up all the low voltage wires and added some protection in the case of a drywall screw mishap. I can't have someone running a screw into one of of the bundles of wires.

    We installed two of the three return ducts and did some more insulation. Another few hours on insulation and the game room, bar area and bathroom will all be ready for drywall. Then it's on to the theater.

    In the first picture, you can see the wires for the TV (HDMI, IR, Cat 6, etc). Does anyone have a creative way to keep the wires out of the way of the drywallers? With electric you can just jam it back in the box of the way, but I can't seem to find a solution for that many low voltage wires.

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    1 month later
    #31 4 years ago

    Well, it's been a few weeks since an update. Unfortunately, we only got to work a few days. Mostly odds and ends. My parent's horse just recently gave birth, so my Dad has been tied up. I was gone for PAPA, so that hosed a week.

    I need to run one wire in the main area of the basement and then the only thing left to do is clean up all the crap so the drywallers can work. I signed the contract and sent in the deposit check about 2 weeks ago. They have me scheduled for a May 30th start date. The initial plan was to have the main section done first and then have them come back for the theater. I'm trying to get the theater done by the 30th so they can do it all at once. If not, they want to stock the theater while they are doing the rest of the basement, so I'd be working around piles of drywall.

    My HVAC guy is supposed to come in this weekend and do some work. I need a gas line run for a stove since it's electric now and we want it converted. I'm also having him run a line set for a mini-split in the theater that will get installed after the walls are up. Once he does that, I can finish the channel in the theater. All the clips are up, but I need him out of there before I can put the rest of the channel up and install the backer boxes for the Atmos speakers and the lighting.

    Anyway, on to the pictures.

    Here are the IB-1 clips used to hold the channel that decouples the drywall from the framing. These little buggers are $2.50/each plus shipping. I think I've went through about 400 of them. This was the 2nd shipment.

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    Here are some of the walls with the channel up. Guess who's an idiot and didn't think of putting the insulation up before they installed the channel......Might have been me.

    Oh well, it only takes a few minutes to pull down the channel.

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    I've been trying to get the theater configuration set, which has been a chore. Unfortunately it's going to be a pretty narrow room after the double drywall goes up on the channel. I really wanted 6 seats, but there is no way to center them and still leave walking space on either side. The only way to get 6 is to shift the rows over to the side opposite the door. This causes two issues, the main issue being the loss of the "money seat". I really wanted one seat in the theater to build the audio around. I also won't have a seat perfectly centered on the screen if I shift them to the side.

    Even if I only go with 2 in each row, there still won't be a money seat, so I might as well go with 2 rows of 3 and be done with it. The seats that are separated out in the picture will be the bitch seats. Unfortunately they will be the furthest shifted from center and will be a little overwhelmed with the side surround, but there is nothing I can do.

    I started laying out the pillars as well. The plan is for them to be 4" deep and house the side surrounds. I could build the speakers into the wall and gain the 4" back, but then I would have to build boxes in the wall to contain the sound leakage. I'd much rather build a sound proof box and keep the speakers inside the bunker.

    IMG_9831_(resized).JPG

    There are going to be two columns at the back for the surround back speakers, but I hadn't laid them out before I took the picture.

    1 week later
    #32 4 years ago

    We got a lot of loose ends tied up over the weekend. The drywallers needed some nailers in a few places that we missed when doing the framing. I also pulled the speaker wires for the front, surrounds and surround back speakers. I needed a few more Cat 6 drops that we pulled along with a few I wanted pulled upstairs before the ceiling gets closed.

    I'm doing an Atmos system in the theater, so we started building backer boxes for the speakers. It's an OSB box that's caulked with acoustical sealant, then a layer of green glue and 5/8" drywall. The box is then suspended in the ceiling on the decoupled channel and the speaker is set in after the drywall goes up.

    The boxes for the lights are a little different because you have to deal with the heat from the light, so the drywall gets replaced with cement board.

    We were finally able to run the lighting circuit in the theater and put the soundproofing pads on the back of all the electrical boxes. I'm waiting for my HVAC guy to run the lineset for the mini-split and a propane line for my stove. Once he's done, I can insulate the ceiling in the theater and put the rest of the channel up.

    Unfortunately I don't have any pictures, but we'll be working this week so hopefully I'll snap a few.

    #33 4 years ago

    I did a little more work last night with the backer boxes. Unfortunately I didn't get a ton done. These things are a little annoying to build.

    Here are a few pictures. I need to build 2 more for the speakers and then two for the lights. I have the OSB shell built for the others, but need to cut the drywall, cement board and then put them together.

    Then they get hung in the ceiling using decoupling isolators called IB-3 clips. They are the same clips that I used to attach the framed wall to the ceiling joists, so the walls never directly touch the joists.

    My HVAC guy comes tomorrow to install the line set for the mini split and run the fresh air intake to the furnace. Now that I'm enclosing the mechanicals, I need an outside intake for the furnace.

    This is the Green Glue on the back of the 5/8" drywall. Then it gets screwed to the OSB and then all the joints get caulked. I still need to attach the flange that will butt up against the first layer of drywall.

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    #35 4 years ago
    Quoted from AlexfromPA:

    dreaming of the day i can start planning my basement...Its looking good so far!

    Thanks! It's a lot of work, but hopefully someday, I'll actually get to move a machine down there.

    This weekend was pretty productive. Drywall delivery is Friday and the drywallers start on Monday. My HVAC guy is stopping by on Friday as well to finish with the mini-split line set for the theater. He also has the run the fresh air intake for the furnace now that I'm enclosing the mechanicals in a room.

    We got a lot done on the theater. I have the back wall and the ceiling to finish and then it's pretty much ready. The ceiling is going to take a lot of time because of having to hang the backer boxes for the speakers and lighting. I also need to put up a 5/8" piece of plywood where the projector. That gives me a nailer when I go to install a 25lb projector.

    I went through and put the putty pads on the back of all the outlet boxes. I was also able to get electric run for the wall sconces and pull the wire for all the speakers that aren't going in the ceiling.

    Here are the Atmos speaker boxes built. I'm considering adding another 5/8" layer of drywall to the outside, but if I did that, they would be really freakin' heavy.

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    Here is the line set for the mini-split system.

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    Each outlet, since it's a penetration in the drywall, needs to be treated.

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    We also finished the backer boxes for the lighting. I'm only doing 2 screen accent lights. All the rest of the lighting will be sconces. There won't be any other ceiling lighting.

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    And finally two pictures of the room. I didn't really have much time to take more.

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    1 week later
    #36 4 years ago

    This is going to be one of the bigger updates. I took the day off on Thursday and Friday of last week to get ready for the drywall delivery. I knew I could get the main sections of the basement ready, but would need the weekend to get the theater done. We put in 13 hours on Thursday and 19 hours on Friday. We took the day off on Saturday and finished things up.

    I decided to throw another layer of 5/8" drywall on the Atmos speaker boxes which made them really freakin' heavy. It took about an hour to figure out how to get the first one up in the ceiling and perfectly level with the bottom of the channel. The rim around the bottom needs to seal perfectly with the first layer of drywall. It gets a layer of acoustical caulk for added protection.

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    It took a good bit of brute force to get them up there and secured, but it was much easier after we figured out how to do it.

    I added a piece of 19/32" plywood as a nailer on the ceiling and on the back wall. They don't make 5/8" plywood, so that was the closest I could find. The ceiling nailer is for the 35lb projector and the back wall will house the min-split HVAC system, so I wanted something to sturdy to mount the indoor unit on.

    IMG_0342_(resized).JPG

    We also added electric for the projector and ran a conduit to where the projector will mount. The added weight of the projector required the use of additional channel and more clips. We also had to add more clips where the Atmos speaker boxes were secured due to the additional weight.

    Friday was drywall delivery day. The drywallers asked if they could start hanging the ceiling since they were already there. The room was ready, so told them to go ahead. Here was their progress. It took them about 4 hours to carry in 100+ sheets of drywall and hang the ceiling....there were only 2 of them.

    IMG_0295_(resized).JPG

    I also had a guy in to run a gas line to the stove. We needed some room in the panel for the mini-split. The stove was electric and my wife wanted gas, so instead of spending $800 on a sub panel, we decided to go ahead and put that money towards a new stove. I can steal the stove breakers for the mini-split, so no need for a sub panel.

    They started the basement on Monday morning. They got the first layer on the theater and was able to get about 50% of the main section done. They were back yesterday to finish. I made sure I was there to apply the acoustical compound to the back of the second layer. If I never see another tube of green caulk again, it will be too soon.

    Unfortunately I don't have any pictures after they left yesterday, but I'll try and get some tonight. The finishers start on Friday and I was told it will be a 4 day process. So as of the end of the day next Wednesday, all the drywall should be done.

    Here are some pictures of the theater shortly before we were finished on Sunday.

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    This is just the low voltage for the basement.

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    Here is how things looked at the end of the day Monday.

    Bathroom:

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    Game room:

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    Here is the theater after the first layer.

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    This is the acoustical compound that goes on the back of each sheet of drywall. Each 8' sheet gets 56oz and 12 - 14' sheets get 84oz. Talk about a lot of compound.

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    And this is what you end up with at the end of two layers of 5/8" drywall, acoustical gel, decoupling isolators and channel.

    IMG_0366_(resized).JPG

    #40 4 years ago
    Quoted from dmacy:

    That will be massive space. Can I use the theatre room to stay overnight since you're close to my work? I will Febreeze before and after so it doesn't stink.

    That's a scary proposition, especially since there isn't a window in the theater. You're liable to die of H2S exposure.

    Quoted from dmacy:

    How many machines do you think you can cram down there in the space you have slotted for pins?

    I'm not sure exactly. I'm thinking upwards of 25.

    #41 4 years ago
    Quoted from amkoepfer:

    Whats the square footage down there? 1800ish?

    I think the total square footage is 1,980, but I haven't measured everything to be sure yet. I need to do that for the subfloor. Instead of building around sewer / water lines, I decided to remove the jog in the wall and make everything as much of a square as possible. I wanted it to look as much like a living spaces as possible, as opposed to being all chopped up like a typical basement.

    Since we did that, there are some sections of the walls that are 1' away from the foundation walls.

    Once the drywallers are done, it's on to paint and the subfloor.

    I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with a Delta FL underlay with OSB secured with Tapcons. That should give me what I need for both the engineered hardwood and the carpet.

    http://www.lowes.com/pd_132387-46612-51050_0__?productId=999919440

    #43 4 years ago
    Quoted from amkoepfer:

    Did you buy paint yet?

    Not yet. I'm planning on picking up the primer first. My brother in law is a painting contractor in Virginia Beach. He gave me his Sherwin Williams account number and told me that I want to get their PVA Primer. Apparently he gets a discount.

    http://www.sherwin-williams.com/painting-contractors/products/catalog/pva-drywall-primer-sealer/

    Once I have everything primed and ready, he's going to paint the entire basement for me.

    #45 4 years ago

    My brother in law said although it sucks, I should roll it.

    #48 4 years ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    I just finished rolling primer and 2 coats paint on the walls and ceiling of my 24x24x10 garage and it took a loooooong time.

    Don't tell me that! Just the game room is 48 x 17 x 8.

    I was thinking about one of those power painters for the primer. My brother in law said he would never use one, but he's a purist. I'm thinking it might be just fine for the primer.

    He said an 18" roller would be the way he would go.

    -1
    #50 4 years ago

    I was looking at the Sidekick model since I'm going to be buying the primer in 5g buckets.

    http://www.wagnerspraytech.com/products/rollers-pads/rollers/smart-sidekick-roller/

    #58 4 years ago

    Well, the finishers were in on Friday and were there pretty late. They have a coat today, one tomorrow and then the final sanding on Wednesday. After that it's on to primer and the subfloor.

    Here is the game room. I think I'm going to try and get this room finished first. That way it will look like I accomplished something. The bar is going to take a bunch of work with the cabinets, stonework and reclaimed lumber. The theater is going to take a ton of work, so I figure if I can finish something, I'll feel better.

    IMG_0392_(resized).JPG

    This is the bar. The back of the bar is going to get stone, as are the columns. The front of the bar and a square behind the TV location is going to get gray reclaimed barn lumber.

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    Just a random shot of a wall.

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    #68 4 years ago

    My currently subfloor plan is an underlayment of Delta FL followed by 7/16" OSB.

    http://www.cosella-dorken.com/bvf-ca-en/products/foundation_residential/floor/products/fl.php

    I'm not sure that I actually need a subfloor, but I'm planning on a mixture of engineered hardwood and carpet. The theater gets a thicker subfloor, so dealing with the transition between a 1" subfloor in the theater and no subfloor would probably be a pain.

    The subfloor would provide a thermal break from the slab along with a "softer" feel to the floor. I'm also a little worried about moisture accumulating under the pad if it were to lay directly on the concrete. I don't have any humidity issues in the basement, but I still don't want to deal with mold.

    My dad keeps telling me he doesn't think it's worth the money.

    #76 4 years ago

    My drywall guys will be done today after their final sanding, then it's on to paint. I went to Sherwin Williams yesterday to pick up 10g of PVA primer based on my brother in laws recommendation. He's a professional painter by trade, so I hope he knows what he's talking about.

    It should go on pretty quick since there isn't anything to cut in. I also bought one of the Wagner power roller things.

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    #83 4 years ago

    Thanks everyone for the comments!!!

    According to the Sherwin Williams guys, the coverage for the PVA primer is ~350 - 400sq ft / gallon. I went off the drywallers estimate of 4,233sq ft of drywall. I'm hoping I have enough because it only comes in 5g buckets. It's pretty cheap, so I won't cry if I have to buy more.

    Quoted from investingdad:

    Some advice....

    ...make sure you got any sanding dust off the bare drywall before you start. It leaves clumps if you don't.

    My brother in law said the same thing.

    The drywallers finished up yesterday so I no longer have huge fans running 24/7 in the basement. I went to look at some flooring options and damn is that stuff expensive. It looks like carpet is going to run about $5.50sq yard and the hardwood upwards of 8sq foot not including installation.

    The gameroom + theater is about 980sq ft, so the carpet isn't going to be horrible. I need to measure the bar / pool table area. My design program doesn't break them out very well as far as measurements. After talking with the flooring place, I think I'm going to go with the memory foam (1/2") in the game room with a shorter nap berber type carpet.

    He also said that there was no reason for a sub floor under either. I think I'm still going to go with the Delta FL for the hardwood just for the thermal break, but skip the OSB.

    I wanted to get some painting done last night, but my wife bought a new microwave to go with her new stove, so I got stuck hanging that.

    #89 4 years ago

    I got a little work done over the weekend, but not as much as I hoped. Saturday was Home Depot run day to grab the subfloor for the theater. 75 Dricore tiles later and a bunch of tapcons, we were out the door.

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    I had a picnic to go to on Saturday afternoon, so that day was shot. Sunday afternoon, I was able to get some priming done. I had no idea it would take as much time as it did. After 7 hours, I was only able to get the game room done and the bar area. You have to roll that stuff 2 or 3 times to get good coverage and get out those annoying lines that the roller leaves behind.

    The ceilings absolutely suck. What a pain in the ass!

    Here is what it looked like after the final sanding by the drywallers and then what it looked like after the primer. I used about 6 gallons, so I suspect I'll need more.

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    #90 4 years ago
    Quoted from amkoepfer:

    Too bad you couldnt get paint done! How are you prepping the walls? Shop vac? I think im going to wait a bit to paint since my drywallers not done yet and i dont want to risk all the dust on wet paint

    To be honest, I didn't do any prep on the walls. After talking to the drywall company, they said that there was no reason for a wipe down of the walls before primer. I suspect they took care of it when they cleaned everything up, but I can't be sure.

    Are you priming first? I would suggest that you do, or the walls will be drinking the expensive paint instead of the primer.

    #92 4 years ago

    Thanks!

    I bought the Wagner Sidekick. It was a lot of work even with the power roller. I couldn't imagine having to do it manually.

    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Wagner-9-in-Smart-SideKick-Multi-Room-Powered-Roller-System-0530010/204801788

    #97 4 years ago

    I did some more painting last night and was able to get the bar area and the bathroom done. I ran out of paint before I got to the ceilings in those room.

    It looks like I'll need more primer.

    I have to admit that it looks pretty good with just the primer. I jokingly told my wife last night that I'm going to throw a few rugs in the game room and call it a day.

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    #101 4 years ago
    Quoted from amkoepfer:

    Looks great! How many gallons so far?

    10 so far. Their 350 - 400 sq ft / gallon is way off.

    Quoted from Jazman:

    The key to sanity on a project like this is definitely what's in the bottom middle of the 2nd picture. I know it helps while I've been working on the long boring tasks like drywall and paint!

    I have to confess....That was just some orange soda. But, when I was done, I sat down with some Grey Goose.

    Quoted from investingdad:

    Yeah, I felt the same after I got two primer coats on. It started looking like a real space. Exciting!

    Any reason you went with 2 coats? The single coat I put on appears to have covered the walls really well, except in the bathroom. I suspect it has something to do with the moisture resistant drywall they used in there though.

    2 weeks later
    #106 4 years ago

    Progress has been slow. The trim is almost finished in the game room and the door to the mechanical room is installed. I really need to get off my ass and pick some paint colors. I'm planning on doing the rest of the trim this weekend and getting some more doors installed.

    On a happy note, my bathroom vanity and the sconces for the bathroom and theater were delivered yesterday! It was a lot more than I wanted to spend, but I think it was worth it in the end.

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    Here is the reclaimed lumber I'm considering for the bar and possibly an accent wall.

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    #108 4 years ago

    Thanks. It was my brother in laws suggestion to do the trim first. He said it makes it easier to paint the trim and I guess he just cuts in the walls by hand without having to tape. He said you also don't have to go back and touch up the trim after getting it installed.

    #110 4 years ago

    I've hit a roadblock. I'm completely stuck on color choices. Everything revolves around reclaimed lumber. The problem is that I've gotten 3 samples of the same lumber and they aren't even close. I expect some differentiation between them, but I have one that's almost black, one that is gray and one that is brown.

    I emailed the company last week and haven't received a response.

    Without know which lumber sample I'm going to use means I can't pick the floor or wall colors.

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    #112 4 years ago

    Thanks FalconDriver. I can't wait to be finished.

    There aren't any plumbers around here is there? I'm trying to figure out the best way to handle the toilet in the bathroom. The plumbing goes through the slab so I have a standpipe for the toilet.

    The thing is that I don't know how to handle the standpipe. Do I install the floor, then cut the stand pipe flush with the floor, or does it get cut now, then I install the flange / toilet and then install the floor?

    #114 4 years ago

    That's what I was thinking. Install the tile first, then cut the standpipe. It looks like this is the flange I need to glue inside the standpipe once it's cut flat with the top of the tile. Then a wax ring and I'm all set.

    http://www.oatey.com/products/drains-and-closet-flanges/closet-flanges/level-fit-closet-flange-with-metal-ring

    2 weeks later
    #117 3 years ago

    After two weeks of having other stuff to do, I finally got a little time on Sunday to do some work. I have the hardwood picked out for the floor in the bar and am ordering the reclaimed lumber today. Once I actually receive the reclaimed lumber, I can solidify my flooring choice. I just need to be sure that I get the correct shade of lumber.

    Once that's done, I can finally pick out some paint and maybe get moving on this project again. We were flying along and then life got in the way.

    The trim is done in the game room and we were able to get the theater subfloor laid on Sunday. Well, all but one piece. I was short on my count apparently. Once I get that piece, I can tapcon the subfloor to the slab and start on the riser.

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    #119 3 years ago
    Quoted from fordtudoor:

    I'm still trying to wrap my head around this sub-flooring. People kill to increase the height of the ceiling and you needlessly made it smaller. Especially when you turn around and put in a riser. You could have taken that money and bought some nice bass traps.

    I did it for the sound isolation aspect. Put your ear down to a concrete floor and have someone smack it with a hammer on the other side of the room. Then install a sub floor, do the same thing and tell me which one resonates more.

    Concrete is a very efficient conductor of low frequencies.

    #122 3 years ago
    Quoted from fordtudoor:

    But I would think that carpet plus foam padding would negate most of that. Your biggest problem with reflecting sound is going to be drywalled ceiling and walls. All the home theaters I have looked at have bass traps on the walls and ceiling with emphasis at internal corners. Never seen any treatment of floors other than spikes on the speakers.

    It will definitely help, but with all the money I've put into soundproofing so far (~5,000), I'm not going to skimp on the $500 it cost to install the subfloor. It also adds isolated mass which will help with acoustics. I'm trying to follow what I've read Dennis Erskine (http://erskine-group.com/) recommends. He seems to be the foremost expert on acoustics and says you should have a subfloor. I've also been working with Ted White from The Soundproofing Company on designing the structure of the room.

    The front wall will be lined with Linacoustic and a riser for the speakers will be built and filled with sand. I can build a bass trap later if needed.

    Quoted from Jazman:

    I think most of his efforts have been toward keeping outside sounds out and inside sounds in. I don't think he's done much with regards to sound control inside the room...

    Absolutely correct. I'm not at the point yet to start dealing with reflection points and dampening. I'm leaning towards the bottom half of the walls being MDF and the top half being OC 703 inside of a frame wrapped in acoustically transparent GOF fabric. I found a place that will print movie posters on AT fabric, so I was going to add a few of them around the room.

    The biggest issue I'm facing now is handling the door and an 8" jam. I'm thinking of going with a solid core door and having a company build a custom jam. Then I can throw a few layers of MDF and Green Glue on the door to increase it's mass. I'd like to communicating doors, but the jam isn't deep enough and I can't have a door swing into the room because of the riser. The room just isn't wide enough to handle a door that swings in.

    1 week later
    #123 3 years ago

    I finally got some time this weekend to do a little work. We got almost all of the tile set in the bathroom. I just need to do the small sections on the right and left side, but wanted to wait until the rest of it dried before doing the edges. I want to be close enough to the drywall so that I don't need quarter round and there isn't a grout line at the edge.

    Here is a picture of when we just dry set it to get a feel for the layout. The tile is actually gray, not brown, but the iPhone doesn't do the greatest job of color reproduction. I decided that I'm going to use the same tile for behind the bar.

    image1_(resized).jpeg

    #125 3 years ago
    Quoted from fordtudoor:

    1) Since your bathroom is considered a secondary room to your main room (where the concrete is) the tile should not "protrude" into the main room. Once you have the door installed and it is closed, the tile would be showing at the bottom when viewed from the main room. Not the norm. I would cut it back to just beyond the door stop trim.

    Thanks fordtudoor, but I'm not sure how your figuring that the tile will protrude into the room? The door opens out into the main room, which means that the front of the door will be virtually flush with the face of the drywall. That means that the transition needs to be directly under the door, or slightly back from the face of the drywall.

    If you look at the picture, we are ~1" back from the face of the drywall.

    1 week later
    #129 3 years ago

    We finished up the bathroom on Sunday and laid the tile in the bar. I also ordered the reclaimed lumber for the bar which should be here in 2 - 4 weeks. I'm hoping to grout this week and then we can start on some more stuff in the theater.

    I can also finally go pick paint colors and start working on the painting. Yea!!!

    image1_(resized).jpeg

    3 weeks later
    #130 3 years ago

    We had some great progress over the weekend. I'm happy to say that I now have a fully functional bathroom in the basement. I still need to hang the towel holder, TP holder, and install the sconces, but other than that, it's completely finished. We put in about 12 hours on Saturday and another 10 or so on Sunday.

    The stand pipe wasn't as bad as I thought it would be to handle. We cut it off and found out the flange wasn't flush with the tile. A diamond Dremel bit and about 15 minutes later, we had cut out a little bit of the tile around the pipe and it sat perfectly flush. I picked up some diamond tipped core bits and was able to drill 3 holes in the tile for the closet flange before I smoked the bit. We stepped up to a slightly larger size and drilled the 4th. It didn't matter either way since the Tapcons were grabbing the concrete below and not the tile.

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    I spent Saturday night at the paint store and picked out colors for everything except the theater. I got the painting done late Saturday and early Sunday morning. Sunday afternoon / evening we sat the toilet, installed the vanity, sink, mirror, marble and took care of all the plumbing.

    It's now officially a usable bathroom.

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    1 week later
    #133 3 years ago

    The bathroom is officially 100% done. TP holder, Towel Rack & Sconces were installed Sunday. It turned out better than I could have imagined. Unfortunately, the pictures done do it justice.

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    1 week later
    #137 3 years ago

    Thanks everyone. I'll keep the pictures coming as we get stuff done. It's been slowing down now, but I really need to get motivated to paint. That's the big hold up.

    But I hate painting. Well, that and my bank account is on strike.

    Anyway, we started on putting up the reclaimed lumber on the bar face. Only got to work on Sunday and it was taking longer than expected.

    All the boards are different lengths, thicknesses and color. Add that to the character of each board like saw marks, old nail holes, knots and trying to waste as little as possible because of the expense and it's a slow go.

    But, here is where we are so far.

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    #141 3 years ago
    Quoted from radium:

    The flange is supposed to be installed on top of the finished floor. If the toilet is not completely stable the wax ring seal may break and leak.

    I'm not sure what you mean? It sits perfectly flat on the tile. I had to remove a little bit of the tile because of the way the flange necked down. The neck was hitting the tile before the flange would sit flat on the tile. Because of that, the flange actually wanted to sit up off the tile about 1/4". We removed a little of the tile to clear the neck so that the flange sits perfectly flat on the tile.

    If you look at the picture I posted above, you can see that it sits flat on the tile.

    #143 3 years ago
    Quoted from radium:

    Sorry, I thought you meant the top was flush with the tile. Just went through a nightmare at my hou :Dse because someone did that, subfloor was completely rotted.

    No worries.

    The odd thing is that finding the answer to if it should be flush with the top of the tile or sit flush on the tile, is a difficult thing to find. The Internet seems to be split right down the middle. I searched a good bit before I was convinced that it should sit flush on top of the tile. One of the selling points was actually the same picture you linked to above.

    #144 3 years ago

    We finished the bar on Saturday and then had a short day on Sunday installing the last "normal" door. I say normal, because the theater door will most likely weigh about 200+lbs and need a custom built 8" jam.

    We also spent some time on Sunday caulking the trim in the game room and dealing with the nail holes in the doors. The game room is completely done except for paint, floor and lights.

    Here is the finished bar. You can see the door to the electrical panel / networking closet in the background. In the first picture, you can see the flooring that goes in the bar area. I think the light flooring will go great with the dark wood and the dark gray I have picked out for the trim.

    The pictures don't really do the reclaimed lumber justice.

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    Now I just need to pull about $15-18k out of my (FillInTheBlank) for flooring, cabinets and solid surfaces and the main sections will be done. Then another $20k for the theater and I'm all set. Anyone have a rich uncle?

    1 week later
    #146 3 years ago

    While I'm waiting for my bank account to recover, I thought I would start working on the riser in the theater. We skipped working on Saturday due to the show in York and only worked on Sunday.

    Layout took about 2 hours, then another 1.5h in Home Depot picking out lumber, looking at low voltage riser lighting, etc. Finished up about 11pm last night and got it completely framed.

    I'm waiting on step lights from Amazon and then I can run the wire for both the lighting and the outlets for the chairs.

    The riser, when finished, will be 10" high unless I decided to do a second layer of T&G 3/4" OSB on top. I'm not sure if I'll need to extra 3/4" or not.

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    #149 3 years ago
    Quoted from fordtudoor:

    Thanks for posting the information regarding your riser. It provided confirmation. I am installing a 12" riser including two (2) layers of 3/4" strand board. I want the "floor" to be rock solid since all seats will have Buttkicker's.

    I decided last night that I'll be going with a second layer of T&G OSB for the same reason. The community consensus is to sandwich either Green Glue or 30lb roofing felt between the two layers. It's only going to cost another $75 for the second layer of OSB if I go with the #30 felt.

    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    Are you going to put insulation in it to get some sound deadening?

    Yes. I'm also going to add false HVAC grates along the back wall and the side wall in hopes that the entire structure will act as a broadband bass trap. That's the reason for the 2" x 8" stringers as opposed to the 2" x 10" that I used to build the perimeter. It allows the entire internal structure to be seen almost as one to the bass as opposed to each cavity being separated. I'm also going to be punching a bunch of 2" diameter holes in the face of the first 2" x 10".

    I was at Home Depot last night looking at vinyl coated finger jointed pine for my screen wall build. That stuff is expensive. I also need to find a source for Linacoustic to cover the front wall behind the screen.

    1 week later
    #150 3 years ago

    We worked on the riser some more over the weekend. I decided that I wanted larger steps than we originally built, so I ripped them apart and made them bigger. We ran the wire for the lighting and the electric for the chairs, then filled the riser with insulation. I found some low priced step lights on Amazon after a good bit of searching. I wanted line voltage so I didn't have to deal with a transformer.

    I also made a trip to Hagerstown Maryland (3h round trip) to pick up some acoustical duct liner. I got 100' of Linacoustic for the walls behind the AT screen and some JM814 for the acoustical panels throughout the room.

    Just need to put the T&G OSB on the riser and that will be done. Then it's on to building the columns and framing for the acoustical panels and wall coverings.

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    #152 3 years ago

    Looks very similar to what I purchased. After a good bit of searching for line voltage step lights, I found some on Amazon. They are 7 watts and even IC rated.

    They shipped with both a horizontal and vertical face plate along with the bulb and housing. All I needed was the box. I went adjustable to accommodate carpet and not wanting to need an extension.

    amazon.com link »

    Currently, the room is 11' 4" wide and 23' 7" deep. Things will change as I add acoustical treatments and columns.

    I'm planning on going all fabric on the walls. It's going to be expensive, but worth it I think.

    #154 3 years ago

    The program that I used to diagram everything listed the depth of the theater to the soffit, not the end of the theater for some reason. That's where it came up with 14'.

    I'm going to go with the Fusion Jive 1013's that run 87.5" in total width. Everything is going to be shifted away from the door, so it will be offset. I was hesitant against doing that at first, but if I dropped it down to two rows of two, there still wouldn't be a money seat. So I figured why not go with 6 if I can't have a money seat.

    The theater is actually flipped 180 degrees from the original plan I posted.

    http://www.rtheaters.com/FusionCollection/FC-Jive-1013.html

    #156 3 years ago
    Quoted from radium:

    What's the R-13 for?

    I'm not an Acoustician, but here is my understanding. Without anything inside the riser, it becomes a giant resonator. Think of a drum. By adding the insulation, and adding some fake vents at the wall and corner intersection, it will function as a broadband bass absorber. It will help with a smoother subwoffer response and decay times.

    That's the reason for the perimeter being made of 2 x 10's and the stringers being 2 x 8's. That allows the riser to be "seen" as one cavity.

    There are a lot of waterfall plots flying around of people that have done it both ways. I kind of understand what I'm looking at, but not completely. As I'm going further with this, it appears as though acoustics is a lot like chili. Everyone starts with a similar base and then fine tunes things for each room. The problem is that no one will share their calculations / secrets unless you pony up $1,000+ for plans drawn specific to your room.

    #161 3 years ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    Mine has it too, just wondering if Spyder has one.

    My Denon does, but that's going to get replaced since it doesn't handle Atmos. I'll probably use it for awhile while I scrape together the $15k it's going to take to finish the theater.

    We finished the riser yesterday. Two layers of 3/4" T&G OSB separated by 30lb roofing felt. Got the outlets in for the chairs too. That riser is solid. It took a lot longer to finish that I originally thought. We'll start on columns next weekend and hopefully figure those out.

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    1 week later
    #162 3 years ago

    Last weekend was column building weekend. I picked up 4 sheets of 3/4" MDF to use for the columns. We didn't get much done on Saturday because I ended up spending about 2 hours at the urgent care. I was ripping a 30" piece off of one of the 8' sheets when it slipped off the saw horses and landed edge wise on my big toe. I've been hobbling around since then.

    Anyway, the columns are 5" deep, 11" wide and will house both a speaker and a sconce. The were built to be removable so I can staple the fabric on the furring strips I need to put up and then slide the column back into place to hide the staples. The crown and base trim will hide the screws used to hold the column to the blocking we glued and screwed to the drywall.

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    #164 3 years ago

    It's starting to feel better, so I'm hoping not. Thanks for the concern.

    #166 3 years ago
    Quoted from Jazman:

    Did some work this summer and dropped a couple hundred pound granite vanity top on my toe

    Yikes. I thought an 80lb chunk of MDF was bad!!!

    They actually made a note on the medical report about there being no nail damage. It actually landed closer to where the my toe meets my foot.

    Thanks for the heads up. I'm definitely going to keep an eye on it now.

    #167 3 years ago

    Weekend update time!

    I'm starting to prep the walls for fabric and needed wood that would be straight, not twist and 1" thick. The guy at the lumber yard said my best option was 1" thick birch plywood. I special ordered some last week and picked it up Saturday.

    If you're a carpenter or like working with wood, turn away now because you aren't going to like what I did with these beautiful pieces of $106 / sheet plywood.

    I ended up ripping them down to 1.75" x 1" furring strips. I took a picture before I cut them up because they were beautiful.

    It took a few hours to rip them down and then we went on to finish the columns. The top hole you see in each column is for a sconce and the bottom hole is for a speaker. After we finished up the columns, it was on to the front wall that's going to be behind the screen.

    There are two layers of Linacoustic separated by a layer of 6 mil poly. The poly is supposed to knock down some of the high frequencies. It was weird how much sound was lost if you stood in the area that was treated and tried to hear someone talk at the other side of the room. I can definitely tell the difference.

    Next up is building the false wall to hold the screen. I pulled out the screen frame and the frame measures 125" x 56.5". It's a 4K, 2.35 AT screen at 125". We ran out of time and didn't get a chance to start putting together the wall. I got a few pieces cut, but it started getting late.

    The room isn't very wide, so I'm going to be left with about 11" at the top and bottom and only 5.5" between the side of the screen and the wall. I'm going with velvet on those walls because it's less reflective than even black paint. If I don't do something, I'm going to get a good bit of light reflection from the walls.

    Anyway, on to the pictures.

    Here is the beautiful birch plywood:

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    Here is the beautiful birch plywood after being attacked with a circular saw:

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    #169 3 years ago
    Quoted from fordtudoor:

    You spent untold thousands of dollars on acoustical treatment and then you choose in-wall speakers to put in some clunky 11" wide columns?

    Actually, I haven't spent much at all on acoustical treatments yet. Maybe you're thinking of soundproofing which is totally different. As for the "clunky" columns, I like my columns. It's an aspect of my theater I wanted since I designed it a year ago.

    Once finished with the sconce, paint and trim (base, chair rail and crown), they will look great.

    The columns are built inside the soundproofed shell, so the in wall speaker isn't in the wall. There won't be any more sound leakage out of the room than there would be if I set a speaker on a shelf.

    As for the in-wall vs. enclosure argument, you have no clue what speakers I've chosen, so you can't argue one way or the other. I'm not throwing in $50 in wall speakers from off the shelf at Best Buy. These are Goldenear Invisa MPX. They've won more awards than any other speaker manufacturer.

    The foremost experts in the industry have said on countless occasions that the Invisa MPX don't suffer from the downfalls of other in wall speakers. If you don't believe me, do a little reading and you'll find countless industry experts saying that there is no compromise when it comes to these architectural speakers.

    As for the screen, if you look above, I'm using an AT (acoustically transparent) screen, meaning the sound travels through the screen uninhibited. The screen sits 24" off the back wall which is plenty of room for the Triton 5s speakers.

    #171 3 years ago
    Quoted from dmacy:

    I think it looks nice and the columns will go well with the look you've created/intended.

    Thanks dmacy. The column look was something I've wanted from the planning stages. I would have liked to have went deeper, but there just isn't the width in the room unless I dropped back to two rows of two seats. I'd rather give up some column depth and have more seats.

    Quoted from dmacy:

    So what else is left to hit the finish line on the theater room? Are you going to wrap that up first and then follow up with the rest of the basement? Or ? It looks like you're making nice and steady progress.

    There is a good bit left to do. I have to finish cleaning up the columns, frame out the walls for the acoustical treatments / fabric, paint the ceiling / columns and then all the trim. The last thing is going to be the components.

    My brother in law is going to paint everything for me in about 2 weeks. The game room is completely finished except for the painting and the carpet. The bathroom is done. The bar / pool table area needs cabinets, stone work, floor and a bar top. That's going to be awhile, unless I hit the powerball.

    #174 3 years ago
    Quoted from jamieflowers:

    I think the columns look nice. I used to run a home theater company many years ago and one thing I had to remind everyone is that unless you spend SEVERAL hundred thousand dollars on your theater you will not have the "best" The important thing is to build/buy what YOU like and just enjoy it! Anyway nice build and thanks for the pictures. Are you building the Screen or is it off the shelf? The only reason I ask is I have really enjoyed the DIY aspect of Home theater in the last few years and have replaced most of my off the shelf stuff with DIY speakers/screens etc and have been VERY happy with the results.

    Thank you!

    I was considering doing the Spandex DIY screen thing, but decided I would go with one off the shelf. It's a fixed frame Silver Ticket screen. I have to assemble it, but it really just screws together.

    I pulled out the frame over the weekend to get measurements for the screen wall and it looks really nice. I didn't open the box with the screen material because I was covered in saw dust and fiberglass. I'll do that one day when I have gloves and clean clothes.

    #175 3 years ago

    No new construction photos, but I did receive my printed fabric movie posters in the mail the other day. They get wrapped around 2" deep frames that will be filled with JM814 to act as an absorber. Each one is 2' x 3'.

    I think they turned out really well. A guy on another forum was nice enough to edit the images for me so they were the right resolution and size. I ordered 7, but here are just a few.

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    #177 3 years ago

    Too bad they don't make a Kate Beckinsale pin.

    #179 3 years ago

    We were only about to work on Sunday for a few hours. I got stuck working on a client's server on Saturday.

    Anyway, we got the screen wall built and installed. You can see the screen frame hung on the screen wall.

    We also started by building the first frame for the on wall panels that will be covered in fabric to hide the acoustical wall treatments.

    I also started prepping the columns for paint.

    Just one picture today.

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    3 weeks later
    #180 3 years ago

    We haven't gotten a ton done, but we are making progress. I got the columns painted black, which was a pain in the arse. The MDF required patching and sanding of the nail holes and joints, along with 3 coats of PVA primer and 2 coats of black. I think they turned out really well.

    I also got the first coat on the ceiling and then ran out of paint. It's amazing how much smaller the room feels when the ceiling is black.

    We started building the on wall frames that get wrapped in velvet and cover the acoustical treatments. Once we got the first one done, I decided that I wanted to do the ceiling panels first and then put up the wall panels. The reason for the velvet is that it's significantly less reflective than even black paint. The screen is under the soffit and very close to the ceiling which was cause for two concerns.

    The first is the screen wash onto the ceiling and walls, the second is the fact that the soffit could act as an echo chamber.

    We had some struggles handling the screen lights that we finally figured out. Everything needed to be blocked out 1" to accommodate the Linacoustic RC.

    I also got my projector delivered yesterday. I purchased an Epson 5040UB 4k 3LCD light cannon along with the higher end Chief mount. It was on sale Black Friday for $200 off and they threw in two pair of 3D glasses.

    On to the pictures!

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    #182 3 years ago

    We got a good bit done over the weekend. All of these acoustical treatments take time and require a bunch of work. Wrapping panels, figuring out how to handle outlets, getting everything to fit right and hanging it all without being able to see how it's hung.

    I had my wife make a run to Hagerstown (1.75h each way) to grab another roll of Linacoustic for the walls. We got All of the velvet under the soffit done, except for the panel under the screen. I might have to wait until carpet is in for that one. We got the screen completely assembled and finished the screen wall. Mounted all of the retaining clips and got her 100% level.

    Then we did all the measuring to determine where I wanted the projector. Because of the low ceiling and the riser, the projector hangs pretty low. The way we mounted it, puts it about 10" behind the back of the 2nd row. That isn't a walking isle, so I don't have to worry about anyone hitting their head on it.

    Once I got the mount up, we attached the projector and fired it up. It took about 45 minutes to get the picture on the screen because of the ton of adjustments. I needed to get the picture on the screen first, since most of it was on the face of the soffit and the ceiling. Then it was on to rotation, pitch and yaw on the mount, followed by more lens corrections and more pitch and yaw.

    It's very close right now, but I didn't got too crazy because it's going to have to come down and go back in the box.

    Since nothing is wired yet, I grabbed an extension cord, my laptop and the 2.1 speakers from my computer and queued up a movie.

    I was floored with how incredible it looked. We watched a little bit of Battle: Los Angels and then some of Star Trek (2009). Battle Los Angels is a pretty grainy movie by design, but still looked awesome. Star Trek had vibrant colors and and incredible picture.

    I'm so happy I decided to go with all velvet under the soffit. It just sucks up any ambient light. Other than the column reflecting a little light, it's like a black hole.

    I can't wait to get this room done!!!

    My iPhone pictures of the screen don't do the projector picture any justice.

    Anyway, on to the pictures.

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    1 week later
    #183 3 years ago

    It appears as though I'm late with the update.

    I got a good bit done last weekend, despite being at the tail end of a cold. It was just me, because my dad didn't want to get sick, so he stayed home.

    I put another 2 coats of black on the ceiling. It looks fine under normal lighting, but if you shine the 1,000 watt halogen work lamps on it, you can see the discolorations. I don't think it will be an issue once I get the work lights out and am just using room lighting.

    The far wall is completely finished except for the trim. I went with the Linacoustic up to ear level and then poly batting from there to the ceiling. I put in some backer blocks for use later if I ever want to hang the printed movie posters I bought. My thought is that I can use 4 impaling clips to hold up the 2" JM 814.

    Hanging the fabric went a lot easier than I thought it would. The DMD fabric is easy to work with and extremely forgiving. I ran into a little bit of an issue in the corner where I needed to attach the fabric to the furring strip first and then nail it to the wall. Once I figured out that I want to staple on the back and not the side, it worked out a lot better. The first one I did, got a little off line, but I was able to stretch it out so you'll never know.

    I ended up needing to use the landscape fabric behind because you could see everything through the fabric when you shined a light on it.

    Overall, I think it turned out really nice. The red sections are actually the same color, but for some reason the camera makes them look different.

    It's really starting to look like a theater. I can see the finish line!!!!!!!

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    #186 3 years ago
    Quoted from dmacy:

    The worst part about doing painting and finish work it seems is that you are so up close to your work you're always seeing something that could be better. Nice work!

    You're definitely right about that part.

    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    Are you going to have a Premier Night? What will be the movie?

    The plan is to have the family over once it's done. As for the movie, probably the new Underworld moving coming out in another month or so. It depends on when I scrounge up the $4k for the chairs.

    #189 3 years ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    Cool. All your chairs gonna be full loungers?

    Definitely.

    I'm most likely going to go with the HT Design Warwick line. They run $699/chair so I guess technically it will be $4,200.

    http://www.htmarket.com/htwahothseto.html

    1 week later
    #191 3 years ago

    Huge holiday update!

    I got a ton done over the weekend. The entire basement is now officially painted. My brother in law is a professional painter and while he was up for the holiday, I handed him a brush and locked him in the basement until he finished. Actually, I really didn't do that, but it sounds cooler that way.

    I also finished up the walls in the theater, except for one spot where the mini-split gets mounted. I'm waiting on my damn HVAC guy to get the hole punched and get me the template so I can build around it.

    I was using some crappy computer speakers and ran a 3.5mm audio cable from my laptop so I could demo the projector, but got sick of that pretty quick. The Denon receiver I want for the theater is $1,800 and therefor on the back burner for now. I pulled the trigger on a cheap $299 Sony I can re-purpose later just to get me buy.

    I threw 3 of my old Klipsch speakers and a sub back there and went to town. I'm really happy with the way things sound.

    I ordered an Intel NUC so I can run Kodi downstairs and am working on converting my database from the local Kodi to a synchronized Emby database, but am still doing some research on that one.

    The paint turned out great. I'm really happy with the colors I chose, but I drove my brother in a law a little crazy with having to paint 6 different colors.

    Anyway, on to the pictures!

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    1 month later
    #194 3 years ago
    Quoted from wontwa:

    Any updates? One of my favorite threads on here (that also inspired me to fall down the projector wormhole due to the quality of the 5040UB images shown in this thread).

    Wow, thanks!

    Unfortunately not much. I've picked out my carpet for the theater and am waiting for an installer to come out on March 7th to make sure they can power stretch. They are concerned about the walls and they want to send their lead installer out before we special order the carpet.

    I still need to get the trim for the theater painted and start getting that put up. I'm planning on having the carpet in the theater done and then it's just seating to finish that room.

    The main hold up is my bank account. I'm waiting for it to recover before I start plowing ahead again. We bought the house in August of '15 and I started this project November '15. With the closing costs and all the money I've put into the basement so far, I'm really drained.

    Combine that with the fact that everything at this stage is really expensive. Solid surfaces, cabinets, flooring, etc.

    1 month later
    #195 3 years ago

    I got a little done yesterday since I had the day off following PAPA.

    My HVAC guy came and installed the outdoor portion of the mini split. I worked on the wall where it mounts since I had the bracket.

    I needed to shim out where it was going to get installed and we had to fish out the condensation drain, the control wire and the copper refrigerant lines. It wanted to get stuck under a piece of channel that holds the drywall, so it took about 45 minutes to get it fished through the hole. Let's just say I got worried at one point that I was going to have to open up the wall, which would have put a bigger hole in my soundproof shell.

    Here are the lines once we finally got them through the hole.

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    This is when they were working on the outdoor unit.

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    I got the area shimmed out for the bracket and threw up the diffusion batting.

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    Then went on the black landscape fabric followed buy the acoustically transparent fabric. The landscape fabric hides any potential shadows since the acoustical fabric is perforated and gradations between materials can be seen in the right light as shadows under the fabric.

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    Then I had to remove a little fabric where the screws for the mount attach so it didn't pull the fabric.

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    Once I got that final wall done, I was able to put in the last two columns and finally wire up the rest of the sconces and the light switch.

    I now have lights (other than the screen lights).

    The only thing I'm not 100% happy with is that the mini split isn't perfectly centered between the columns. The reason is that I didn't have the bracket before the drywall was installed. I didn't know how far off to the side the line set needed to be. I didn't want my HVAC guy to order it and have it sitting around for a year while I built the room.

    No biggie, you'll never see it unless you're standing at the screen looking back at the room. Besides, my dad said if anyone says anything ignorant, we'll just throw them out.

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    #198 3 years ago
    Quoted from Chosen_S:

    WAY to go! It's really coming along nicely!!!
    Im getting really close to start on my game room, I just need to STOP buying games! why do all the good deals happen right when I am about to apply for permits?!?!?!?

    Thanks. I'm loving the space.

    Permits?

    4 months later
    #205 2 years ago

    It's been forever and a day since I really got a chance to do anything, but my wallet is starting to recover and I'll be moving forward with some purchases. This stuff is freakin' expensive when you get to this point.

    The only update I have right now is that I got my Goldenear Invisa MPX speakers for the columns. I was planning on building a panel to hide the speakers, but I think they look cool enough that I'm going to leave them uncovered.

    I'm ordering the carpet for the theater today and have started painting the trim.

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    #207 2 years ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    With your beautiful build I can see why you wallet is hurting. Top notch all the way. What's your carpet choice? Mild or wild?

    Thanks for the compliment! You hit the nail on the head. I decided that I was going to spare no expense..... well, maybe at the expense of a timely completion. I could have been done a year ago if I went on the cheap and stopped buying freakin' pinball machines.

    Anyway, I'm going with a Masland Quadrate carpet in the theater, and of course, it's special order and not cheap. Why does everything I like have to be expensive!

    I haven't settled on anything for the game room yet. I can't seem to find something that works for me.

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    2 weeks later
    #208 2 years ago

    I got all the chair rail done last night. I just need to do a little touch up.

    The plan is to buy and paint the base trim tonight if I have time. Carpet goes in next Thursday.

    Ignore the really weird lines on the fabric. The camera seems to pick up a secondary image from the sconces for some reason.

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    #210 2 years ago
    Quoted from wontwa:

    Looks great!! This thread inspired me to pick up an Epson 5040UB a month or so ago, just got the 138" 2:35 screen up a week or two ago, and finally removed the 5040 from it's temporary distance testing position on top of a Donkey Kong and mounted to the ceiling.
    Loving this projector - hope that our theater room can one day look as amazing as yours!

    Thanks so much for the compliments! I can finally see the finish line for the theater. Once that's done, I think I'm going to work on the bar and get that out of the way.

    For the dollar, it's definitely the best projector on the market. Have you paired it with a 4K bluray player yet? I picked up the Oppo 203 right after it was released. I'm impressed with the picture. You need to have two separate settings on the Epson, but with the memory locations, it's easy to switch. Unfortunately, I missed the pre-order on the Xbox One X so I'll have to hope I can pick one up after they hit the street.

    #212 2 years ago

    I got a bit more done over the last few days. All of the base trim is in except 2 pieces that I need to finish tonight. I had a snafu with the minisplit drain line being blocked or going uphill. I couldn't tell which, but it's now draining. I was using it the other day and heard water running. I looked up and saw it pouring out the front of the unit.

    Needless to say, I would have killed my HVAC guy if he was there. It was really the first time I used it since it was installed.

    Anyway, I got the Z-Wave dimmers installed and hooked up to the controller. Nothing like having a real light switch.....It's the small things.

    My iPhone has issues with washing out all of the colors for some reason, so you'll have to excuse the pictures.

    Tonight I need to finish the last two pieces of base trim and pull out the screen, take down the projector and remove the front floor standing speakers. Tomorrow is carpet day!!!! That also means, that if I have enough time before pinball league, I can set up 3 of the chairs I bought.

    It should start looking like a theater soon.

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    1 week later
    #213 2 years ago

    I'm a little late with this, but except for the door and buying three more seats, the theater is done.

    I finished the crown, chair and base molding. Had the carpet installed, wired up the step lights and finished the last 5 velvet covered panels for the screen wall and the soffit face. I chose velvet for the soffit face since I have a CIH screen. The projector zooms in on the image and projects the normal black bars above and below the screen. A little of the light was hitting the soffit face. With the velvet there, you can't even see it.

    The pictures don't do the room justice. For some reason the Edison lights wash out the colors.

    I think I'm going to go with the flooring in the bar area and cabinets next.

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    #215 2 years ago

    Thanks! I'm absolutely thrilled by the way the room turned out. It's now my favorite room in the house.

    Underworld Blood Wars in 4K HDR will be the first official screening. I'm a sucker for Kate Beckinsale, especially in leather.

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    #217 2 years ago

    I picked up a server rack yesterday for all the components. The idea is to knock out a section of the wall next to the theater door and display the components and make them easier to access. I really didn't need a 45U, 4 post, 30" deep rack, but for $150, I couldn't pass it up.

    Now I need to hack up the "L" bracket at the bottom so it will push up against the wall.

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    1 month later
    #222 2 years ago

    I finally picked out my lighting for the game room. There will be six of these "Steampunk" light fixtures mounted to the ceiling. I have two separate circuits, one on each side of the game room. I ordered one just to see if I liked it since they don't accept returns. I didn't want to spend a ton of money on lighting only to find out I didn't like it.

    Here it is installed along with a picture of the fixture from their website since I forgot to take a picture with the light turned off.

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    #225 2 years ago
    Quoted from Chosen_S:

    That’s really cool! I’m trying to pick out my lighting as well, but I’m concerned about lights on the ceiling reflecting on the pins glass... what are your thoughts?

    I normally play with the lights off, so I suspect they won't get a lot of use. When I designed the room, I set the lights back from the wall further as opposed to being symmetrical. I'm hoping that will keep me from getting any glare, but to be honest, I'm one of those people that like to turn on all the games and play in the dark.

    The plan was for adjustable track lighting so I could angle things out of the way, but I couldn't find anything that went with the look I was after.

    #226 2 years ago
    Quoted from fordtudoor:

    You couldn't build those? Hell that's half the fun plus you save lots of dinero. Savings could be reinvested in better equipment.

    There is a difference between can and being worth it. Could I have built them, absolutely. If I can build an acoustically correct, soundproofed theater, and finish an entire basement, I can screw together some pipes.

    It would cost between $80 - 100 in parts (roughly) to build one. Add the time of running back and forth to the hardware store, painting the reducers that don't match the color of the galvanized pipe, inevitably running back to the store because I forgot something and finally putting it all together costs money in my world. I would much rather spend that time working on quotes for clients, finishing up some invoicing, or trying to find time to work on the basement.

    The $100/fixture I pay someone else to deal with that hassle and time, is money well spent in my book.

    2 weeks later
    #227 2 years ago

    Well, I finally picked out my floor for the bar. I'm just waiting to get my CaCl2 test to make sure there isn't too much moisture in the slab to use what I picked. If the test comes back fine, I'll be ordering it next week.

    Once I get that in, I can do the carpet in the game room and finally move the pins downstairs to their new home!!!

    Here is the floor I picked. I think the light color is going to work well against the dark colors in the reclaimed barn wood I used for the bar.

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    #229 2 years ago

    Whoops. Sorry. It's a laminate click lock plank. I wanted vinyl because it's water / moisture proof, but couldn't find anything I liked in vinyl. I'm hoping the CaCl2 test comes back under the manufacturer's moisture requirement or it's back to the drawing board.

    #231 2 years ago

    My lighting was delivered on Saturday. I had a few guys over Saturday night so I made my brother in law hold them for me while I wired them up. They were too heavy to do by myself.

    I also did the CaCl2 test on the concrete over the weekend. The manufacturer recommends <3.0lbs/1000sqft in 24 hours. Mine was 2.281lbs/1000sqft, so I'm below their threshold. I'll be ordering the floor either today or tomorrow.

    It's getting there....

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    1 month later
    #232 2 years ago

    I picked up the flooring last night. Now I just need to find time to get it installed.

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    #234 2 years ago

    It doesn't need to be glued or screwed down. It just floats on a 3mm underlayment.

    1 month later
    #237 2 years ago
    Quoted from Pedleboy:

    This is my new favorite thread! I'm very impressed. Theater wise you did a very nice job (I design record/post studios for a living). Too many people neglect soundproofing/acoustic treatment. You really did everything almost to the book. The first pic with the red wall up I was like "he ruined the whole room!'. Now with the columns, trim and chair rail up I love it. Can't wait to see the whole thing finished.
    D.

    Thanks for the compliments. It's my favorite room in the house. All I need is the other row of chairs, a door and that room is done.

    Well, I finally started the floor! I've been so busy lately, it's just been sitting there in a pile. I'm hoping to get some more done this weekend, but I'm running a pinball tournament so that will suck up most of Saturday.

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    2 weeks later
    #240 2 years ago

    Back to work finally. I spent some time over the weekend working on more of the floor in the bar / fish tank / sitting area. Once I get that done, I have to decide if I'm going to work on the cabinets / solid surfaces for the bar, or throw the carpet in the game room and get the machines down there. I'm leaning towards the cabinets and granite so I have a beer fridge.

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    #242 2 years ago
    Quoted from dmacy:

    It looks great. About time you got to work you lazy bum! JK!!

    I know, right! Thanks! I'm hoping to get some work done this week and maybe finish that part up if I'm lucky. The trim is already painted and I think I have enough, but we'll see.

    4 months later
    #245 2 years ago

    Thanks so much for the compliments. I've really been dragging my feet on getting the floor finished. It seems as though every time I have some time, it rains. If anyone has ever cut laminate flooring knows, there is no way I'm cutting that in my house or even my garage. That stuff is terrible.

    I'd have to measure to be sure, but something tells me it's a little more than 7.5'.

    #247 2 years ago
    Quoted from dmacy:

    Maybe you need to spend less time playing and more time working and that floor would be done. JK!

    If I stopped buying games that might help too.

    1 month later
    #248 1 year ago

    The floor is finally done, except for one piece by the bar that I'm having a little trouble getting to fit correctly. Anyway, other than the damn slope on the side of the bar I had to shim, it went in pretty well.

    I'm going to order the transitions this week and then it's on to either cabinets, or I'll have someone put carpet in the game room and move the games down.

    IMG_8930 (resized).JPGIMG_8931 (resized).JPGIMG_8932 (resized).JPGIMG_8933 (resized).JPGIMG_8934 (resized).JPGIMG_8935 (resized).JPG

    #250 1 year ago
    Quoted from heni1977:

    Love that flooring!

    Thanks! I was a little skeptical while putting it down that it wouldn't work with the colors on the walls, but as soon as I threw up the trim I knew it was perfect. Turned out exactly how I hoped it would.

    #252 1 year ago
    Quoted from dmacy:

    Looks really nice and classy. What's left? Looks like you're ready to invite everyone?!

    I wish. But you're welcome to stop by anytime.

    Cabinets and granite for the bar and carpet for the game room. I also need to buy and hang all the TVs an wrap the columns at the bar.

    Oh and a door for the theater.

    #254 1 year ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    What are ya gonna wrap them in? Oh and a brass foot rail for the bar would look great.

    The plan is stone. Then the back wall will have a reclaimed lumber section behind the TV as an accent. The rest of the wall behind the bar will be stone.

    I’m going for the stone / reclaimed lumber contrast. A little stone on the columns and a lot of lumber on the bar. Then a little lumber on the back wall and a lot of stone.

    At least that’s the plan.

    As for the foot rail, there are already nailers in the framing. I’m leaning towards building one out of pipe fittings to match the game room lights.

    #257 1 year ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    I see. Is the front of the bar going to be dark or are you going to try lighting it with an led strip under the front lip of the top?

    I'm planning on accenting the reclaimed lumber with lighting.

    Quoted from dmacy:

    Seriously, that is a sharp looking game/theatre/basement! Do I have to wear a suit and tie to walk in? Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

    Thanks! No suit and tie necessary, but you will have to take off your shoes.

    #259 1 year ago

    I think I found my cabinets for the bar. Got a price and a drawing from the guy yesterday. I sent my wife down to grab two samples so I can see which one I like better with the floor. In the store, I liked the one in the picture better, but that doesn't mean it will work with the floor. Ignore the solid surface in the picture. That's just what they had on display.

    Drawing (resized).JPG

    IMG_8956 (resized).JPG

    #261 1 year ago

    There will be over 3 1/2' of space between the cabinets which will be just fine. The minimum space (from my reading) is 30".

    #263 1 year ago

    I'm not going with any shelves or wall cabinets. Any liquor I have will be in the base cabinets. I might drink liquor once a year, so I really don't have any desire to showcase the bottles.

    #265 1 year ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    But you have to impress people with booze bottles in your bar ya know, otherwise it's not a true bar.

    It’s funny you say that because my wife brought that up when I showed her my 3D renderings. “Where are you going to put the liquor and glasses?” To which I replied, “in the damn cabinets”.

    She thought it was weird too. Not my thing though.

    #267 1 year ago

    I ordered the cabinets yesterday along with the built in beer fridge. I just grabbed a 55” 4K TV for behind the bar a little while ago.

    The cabinets he said were an in stock item so I should have them next week. The damn fridge is going to take 2 weeks to get here. I could have got it faster elsewhere, but I had a $1,000 Home Depot gift card I wanted to use.

    I’m gaining on the finish line. After cabinets it’s on to granite, carpet for the game room and a door for the theater.

    Woo Hoo!!!

    #268 1 year ago

    TV is up. The plan was a section of reclaimed lumber behind the TV, then the rest of the back wall in stone. I was going to put sconces up on each side of the TV.

    The problem is that my mount is pretty damn low profile, so if I put lumber behind the TV, I can no longer get to the screws at the bottom of the mount that keep the TV from being able to be picked up off it's mount. It's just a safety thing and I'm pretty sure nothing would happen, so I might just forget about the screws.

    I also picked a decent sized TV for the wall (it must be a guy thing), so there isn't much space for contrasting stone / lumber.

    Might have to think on this one a little more....

    IMG_9021 (resized).JPG

    3 weeks later
    #271 1 year ago

    Cabinets are in. I still need to adjust all the doors, install the hardware and toe kick, but they are all level and attached. I used this leveling system I found online as opposed to shims. Pretty cool system. I was able to split the laser beam in half they are so level.

    IMG_9300 (resized).JPG

    IMG_9301 (resized).JPG

    IMG_9302 (resized).JPG

    IMG_9295 (resized).JPG

    IMG_9299 (resized).JPG

    1 month later
    #272 1 year ago

    I'm still moving along, albeit slowly. My buddy and I moved some of the games downstairs into a temporary location. Once I get the carpet, they can be moved to the other side.

    I did install the beer fridge and get that stocked, so that's a plus. Damn thing holds 4 cases of bottles.

    IMG_0090 (resized).JPG

    IMG_0101 (resized).JPG

    IMG_0176 (resized).JPG

    IMG_0224 (resized).JPG

    2 weeks later
    #276 1 year ago
    Quoted from SilverUnicorn:

    What make and model is the beer fridge you have/ I have been looking for a nice small one like that. Room is looking great! Take your time and do it right, it will be worth it!
    Chris

    It's the Avallon ABR241SGRH. I got mine from Home Depot. It has both white and blue LEDs that you can have on all the time, or only when you open the door. I can't complain about it.

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avallon-152-Can-24-in-Built-in-Beverage-Cooler-in-Black-and-Stainless-Steel-ABR241SGRH/206908202

    1 week later
    11
    #279 1 year ago

    I did a little more work over the holiday. I picked up a TV to use as a digital movie poster. It scrolls through a poster every 30 seconds and plays a trailer for some of the movies. It's synched with my theater, so when I start a movie it changes to "Now Playing" and displays all the information for the movie I'm playing.

    Klipsch speakers were on sale and my old ones were probably 20 years old, so I replaced the fronts, the center and the sub.

    56478001505__C94F6A5F-6676-44E9-82DE-8333B2E28354 (resized).JPG

    56478015964__1AEDA146-3311-4F64-BA23-79A539ACE329 (resized).JPG

    IMG_0661 (resized).JPG

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    #281 1 year ago
    Quoted from ScottyC:

    Nice!! What are you using for your media player to trigger the TV? I haven't looked into meyer64's MoviePoster's software much, but need to set that up in my media room as well after you motivating me more

    I run Emby on my unRAID server as a Docker app. You just have to generate an API key and tell the app what device it needs to watch.

    #287 1 year ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    I'm sure I'm not the only one here that says "say what"? That's way cool.

    Just in case you're curious, unRAID is an operating system you can run on a computer from a flash drive. It controls an array of various hard drives for storage. When you run out of storage, you just slap in another drive and viola, more storage. It also allows me to run programs that provide more functionality than just raw storage.

    Emby for example, is my centralized database for media content. The unRAID server has a variety of TV shows and Movies. Its job is to synchronize the database between devices. That keeps me from having to add the new content to all of the devices in my house.

    Emby also allows for remote access. For example, if I want to stream a TV show to my computer at work during lunch, Emby provides that functionality. I also gave my sister and her husband a Raspberry Pi so they can stream all of my content to their TV.

    Think Netflix, but a much higher quality picture and hosted in your house.

    Quoted from Chosen_S:

    Nice! Finally someone who runs an unraid server too! I’ve had mine going about 5 years now, running Plex and having a blast. I’m also in on another unraid server that my friend hosts... never run out of content!!!

    I think I've been running an unRAID server since 2011. My tower is maxed out with drives, so I'm going to have to start swapping in larger drives. I currently have 2TB free of 27TB, so it won't be long before I have to start upgrading drives. Unless I move forward with the Norco 4224 case I've been eying up....

    #289 1 year ago
    Quoted from Chosen_S:

    A few inquiries...
    What app is running your vertical preview TV with the Movie posters?

    I run this app on a Asus VivoStick.

    https://www.movieposterapp.com/

    The VivoStick does alright, but I wouldn't try to do anything else with the damn thing. It's just too slow.

    Quoted from Chosen_S:

    Are you using a Movies Organization / automated app? (I can't seem to find a decent working one, couch potato does very little for me, I almost do everything by hand)

    Yikes, by hand! I used to do that and then bailed on it. It became way to time consuming. I have it listed above, but I run Emby and have the Premier Key which allows for remote access to my media from the iPhone / Android app or any web browser. It also works as a plugin with Kodi or an app for Roku. I've been buying the TCL Roku TVs for the basement and just use the app to connect to Emby. Emby monitors the shares and whenever new media is added it downloads all the metadata and adds it to the database. You can go in and change the poster or background image if you want. The only thing it doesn't do is download the trailers.

    https://emby.media/

    Quoted from Chosen_S:

    I had used xbmc (kodi) for the longest time (ever since the original xbox), then I discovered plex a while back and hadn't looked back, we have Roku's at all of my families houses and access everything from them, we would have done Rpi's, but the ease of setup and other readily available apps made the Roku the devise of choice... I'm tapped out at 27tb and started to delete content (mostly daily shows, or reality shows my wife watches), I'll start upgrading drives soon, just hadn't had space to work in. I bought a bunch of 2 tb drives on special a year ago, and now there's 10tb drives!!?? crazy talk... I don't think I'll dump my current setup, I'll just build another unraid box and run both, at least until the first is obsolete by a mile.

    Do you have a parity drive? If so, why not just rip out one of the 2TB drives and install a 6TB drive? You'll need to make sure that the parity drive gets replaced first because you can't have any drives larger than the parity drive. So technically, you'll need two drives to start upgrading. 6TB WD Red (7200rpm) drives are $232 right now.

    Quoted from Chosen_S:

    that Norco 4224 case looks killer, That may be the case of choice in the near future for me as well, I need to look back in to lime techs drive cap to see if its viable
    EDIT: I have a pro license, so... unlimited drives / storage... that answered the question of the rebuilding of the server, I'll just ditch my current case and upgrade when it comes time, I'll probably need to upgrade my mobo as well for more pci slots to add more sata connections

    You can always add in a PCI-e SATA card you can grab for $25 provided your case has enough bays. I ended up needing a 2 x 5.25" to 3 x 3.5" drive cage, but it was only $23.

    amazon.com link »

    amazon.com link »

    Let me know if you have any more questions.

    1 month later
    #295 1 year ago

    Nothing much to report. I moved some games into the other room and set them up. Hopefully it's motivation for me to go buy some damn carpet and get that done. Granite for the bar is going to be the last thing, but unfortunately what I want is considered an "exotic". They want about $8k to do the bar.

    The other issue with the granite is that no one seems to have any clue as to how much of an overhang I can have without needing supports.

    Anyway, this is the first time all my games have been on the same floor in my house and all set up at the same time.

    IMG_1184.JPG

    #297 1 year ago
    Quoted from hawkmoon:

    Wow,Some people sure have deep pockets!!! Very,very,nice!!!

    They aren't that deep. If they were deeper, I'd be done by now.

    I work a full time job and run a business evenings and weekends. 70+ hours a week is what pays for the toys.

    #299 1 year ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    8k for a piece of rock??? Make a frame, cover it with new pennies and pore epoxy over it.

    Yep. It's a beautiful rock though. Ignore the remnant in front of it. I want the one with the big vein running through the middle.

    Granite 1 (resized).jpg

    Granite 2 (resized).jpg

    #303 1 year ago
    Quoted from dmacy:

    I so want to comment about you wanting the one with the vein in the middle!
    But it looks awesome. Would a remnant of your size be 1/2 price (no features)? I'd feel better about missing what I wanted if it costs tons less.

    Not of that type. Apparently it's sold / priced by level. Level 1 being the least expensive (but still expensive) and level 7 being the most expensive. It just so happens that what I want is an exotic and according to the woman "doesn't really have a level". Figures.

    Quoted from TheLaw:

    Or a pro with a 2.5k Counter top
    But I see what he's saying...you get it just the way you like it you'll be enjoying it for the rest of your life

    That's the way I've been doing things which is the main reason it's taking me so damn long.

    $8k for granite is a tough one though. I can get really nice granite for $4 - $5k. Once I do the carpet, the plan is to go to a few other warehouses and look at their slabs. Chances are I can find something of a lower level that I like just as much.

    1 week later
    #311 1 year ago
    Quoted from Nickson:

    awesome basement!

    Thanks so much. It's been a long journey. I'm almost at the finish line. Unfortunately granite and flooring isn't the cheapest thing.

    5 months later
    #315 1 year ago

    Looks awesome. I didn't bother to frame mine out. As thin as TVs are these days, I didn't think it was necessary.

    #317 1 year ago
    Quoted from LargemouthAss:

    Wow I just read through this whole thread and I am very impressed!

    Thanks for the compliment!

    Quoted from LargemouthAss:

    A few questions:
    -Are those klipsch towers in the theater? If so do they voice match with the goldenears? Or is this temporary until you can get the Goldenear 5 that you mentioned earlier? If you are leaning toward the Goldenear 5 I suggest you go with the 7s and save some money especially since you are running an external sub.

    They are in the theater, behind the AT screen. I was planning on the Goldenear for the front because a friend of mine was a dealer and I could get them at cost. The problem is that he isn't a dealer anymore, so I'd have to pay retail. Anyway, from what I read, needing to voice match the rears with the front is debatable. I'm not sure if that's true or not.

    I think they sound fine, so I'm probably not going to upgrade.

    Quoted from LargemouthAss:

    -How will the granite counter top accommodate the pilars?

    I have no clue. The granite place said they could do it, so I'm assuming they would have to seam it right were the poles are, but I'm not 100% sure.

    -I see you have a pretty extensive server system for media which is awesome for movies, did you consider Sonos Connects for music? With the separate music zones I find nothing is easier than Sonos and guests can easily use the system (emphasis on easily) with just the app on their phone. I have 5 Sonos Connects in my house, each hooked up to its own stereo/HT setup and it couldn't be easier to use and the sound quality is excellent (especially when run through a nice DAC).

    To be honest, I hadn't nailed down exactly how I planned on handling everything. I was looking into AV matrixers, but haven't settled on anything yet.

    My problem is that I keep buying damn pinball machines instead of putting money into the carpet and granite.

    1 month later
    #319 11 months ago

    Well, I had the game room measured for carpet and was all ready to pull the trigger and then my wife fractured her foot and can't work. She's been out for 3 weeks, so there goes the carpet budget (for now).

    1 week later
    #321 11 months ago

    Thanks for asking!

    Better, but still hobbling around. She's allowed to go back to work on a limited basis. They said that the fracture isn't visible on the Xray she had during the follow-up so that's good.

    On a side note, I've been experimenting with tying in all the machines in with my automation controller. I have it set up so that I can turn individual machines on / off by name, along with all of the machines at the same time. Alexa interfaces with my automation controller, so I do it with a voice command.

    I tried it for the first time with people over the other night and it made me look stupid by missing two of the machines. Other than that, it worked.

    It is nice to turn off all the games and lights with the single "party over" voice command.

    I used a pile of these:

    amazon.com link »

    1 month later
    #323 9 months ago

    Good news. The wife is back to work and the bank account is recovering. I picked out my carpet and just need to start some cleanup in the room to get stuff out of the way. I spent some time installing a tablet in the wall that allows me to control lighting and the games. I can also do it through Alexa, but with 16 machines and bunch of people, sometimes it can't hear me very well.

    IMG_7590 (resized).JPG

    IMG_7592 (resized).JPG

    #325 9 months ago

    Sure. The controller is the SmartThings Z-Wave hub. The lights are on Z-Wave switches and the games are all on the Zooz ZEN25 Double Plugs. The interface is through ActionTiles running on a Kindle Fire HD 10 that's powered via PoE.

    I have another panel inside the garage entry door that allows me to control things like door locks, alarm system, etc. It's also controllable from my phone, my wife's phone and through Alexa.

    The SmartThings hub is $63. The switches run anywhere from $29 - $42/each depending on what brand you buy and the double plugs run $30/each. The nice thing is that the controller can connect to any Z-Wave device so you aren't locked into a particular manufacturer.

    I have a ton of other plugs, my garage doors, locks, lights, security system, themostat, etc all connected to the hub. You can just add things as you go.

    #327 9 months ago
    Quoted from Deaconblooze:

    Thanks for that! I've been thinking about getting some Hue stuff for my basement (currently under restore due to a flood in early summer). I'm going to check to see how well the systems work together.
    Do you use any other apps on the device (like iscored) or is it purely a control?

    I can't comment on iScored, but anything you find in the Kindle store you can use. You can also install custom .apk files you find as long as you enable the ability to download non-trusted apps from outside the store.

    ActionTiles is web based, but I run it inside of a browser that allows for a pile of other functionality that you don't get with the built in Kindle browser. I think it even supports wake on motion using the camera, but I haven't messed with that yet.

    #328 9 months ago

    This is the garage panel. You can disarm the alarm, open garage doors, etc. It's also set up so that our phones act a presence sensors based on our GPS location. So the system can take appropriate action based on who is home and who isn't home.

    IMG_7657 (resized).JPG

    5 months later
    #331 4 months ago

    I'm back on the wagon after a long hiatus. I installed the transition strips so I can finally have carpet installed in the game room. I also got the trim done around the bar, installed some vent covers and am working on a few other pieces of trim.

    The transitions were a nightmare. I ended up breaking two of them the first go-around and if you've ever bought matching transitions, you know how much they cost. They were impossible to get pushed into the track. I ended up having to spread the track with a scrap piece of wood before installing the transition.

    Hopefully I can get the carpet down in the next few weeks. I have a second contractor coming out on Thursday to measure.

    IMG_0049 (resized).JPG

    IMG_0050 (resized).JPG

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