(Topic ID: 153786)

Game Room Build Thread


By Spyderturbo007

4 years ago



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  • 332 posts
  • 61 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 84 days ago by SilverUnicorn
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    There are 332 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 7.
    #51 3 years ago
    Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

    Don't tell me that! Just the game room is 48 x 17 x 8.

    Oh crap....you better ask for help. Just remember the top coat is only as good as the coat before it....runs, drips, sags. etc.

    #52 3 years ago

    Painting trick I've seen done, is one person sprays on the paint and a second one follows with a roller. Gets paint on wall fast whilst the roller give a uniform finish.

    #53 3 years ago

    this is looking incredible- amazing job.

    #54 3 years ago
    Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

    I was looking at the Sidekick model since I'm going to be buying the primer in 5g buckets.
    http://www.wagnerspraytech.com/products/rollers-pads/rollers/smart-sidekick-roller/

    Mine is older and can actually work with a larger paint can as well. I cannot imagine that the sidekick would not work. Just be sure to wash the roller between uses as they are expensive and no one seems to stock them. I have used the same roller for 8 painting sessions in different colors and it is still holding up. Just just make sure when cleaning the system to clean it for a very long time. the water should come out clear. You still may have it glue the pump line shut but like I said, it is a simple fix. If you need any info hit me up with a PM.

    edit: Also they used to make ones that have two handles so that 2 people can roll at the same time. If they make the sidekick like that definitely get that. It took 2 coats with killz to cover all of the sheet rock well enough to paint. Painting I can usually get by with just 1 coat. That thing uses so much less paint but gets way better than traditional rolling.
    Also be sure to use the "splash guard". It really cuts down on mess.

    #55 3 years ago

    Guys, sometimes you just have to crush a 15 pack and roll the damn stuff on old school.

    #56 3 years ago
    Quoted from PinPatch:

    Painting trick I've seen done, is one person sprays on the paint and a second one follows with a roller. Gets paint on wall fast whilst the roller give a uniform finish.

    When we had our house interior painted, this is exactly with the guys did with the primer coat. Very fast and looked great.

    #57 3 years ago
    Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

    Don't tell me that! Just the game room is 48 x 17 x 8.
    I was thinking about one of those power painters for the primer. My brother in law said he would never use one, but he's a purist. I'm thinking it might be just fine for the primer.
    He said an 18" roller would be the way he would go.

    I had about half my basement professionally finished, about 750 ft2.

    But I did all the painting to save close to $3000.

    I rolled like a madman.

    Four full days of work plus another week of nights for the detail work.

    #58 3 years ago

    Well, the finishers were in on Friday and were there pretty late. They have a coat today, one tomorrow and then the final sanding on Wednesday. After that it's on to primer and the subfloor.

    Here is the game room. I think I'm going to try and get this room finished first. That way it will look like I accomplished something. The bar is going to take a bunch of work with the cabinets, stonework and reclaimed lumber. The theater is going to take a ton of work, so I figure if I can finish something, I'll feel better.

    IMG_0392_(resized).JPG

    This is the bar. The back of the bar is going to get stone, as are the columns. The front of the bar and a square behind the TV location is going to get gray reclaimed barn lumber.

    IMG_0388_(resized).JPG

    Just a random shot of a wall.

    IMG_0387_(resized).JPG

    #60 3 years ago

    spaces like this are ALL about the professional airless sprayer and a guy backrolling.

    A little extra prep time in taping off windows and anything else you dont want to overspray, but if time and quality is what you want then that is the method to use. Spraying does not even need to be perfect since you have a guy backrolling.

    I painted my way through college and grad school, so I speaking from experience. 2 guys can get 2 coats on in one long day.

    Then finish off your ceailing the next day.

    Then topcoat the walls the next by hand with brush and roller.

    #61 3 years ago

    What are your considerations on a subfloor? And I almost wonder do you need one? I'm sure you could just have the floor etched and styled as it is to keep costs down and maybe place some rugs down where people stand, etc. I'm a strong supporter of DriCore but it does get costly at $6 a 2x2'.

    #62 3 years ago
    Quoted from dmacy:

    And I almost wonder do you need one?

    My thoughts too, if he doesn't have water in the basement he shouldn't need it. If he does he needs a drainage system put in which is $$$$$ for that size basement then he could just put padding and carpet down. My house is 75 years old (you'd never guess it by looking at it) and my basement has never had water in it, granted you can get water vapor coming up through the floor but the memory foam is a vapor barrier too so I have no problems, it's great stuff.

    #63 3 years ago

    Looks great!

    #64 3 years ago

    I put DriCore in my basement >10-15yrs ago. Yes, was a bit expensive as noted, but went down quickly and without many complications. I do enjoy that my carpet and pad are not sitting on bare concrete. Much warmer underfoot.

    Our basement floor had some condensation issues prior to finishing the basement. No issues with mold/mildew all these years later. We do run a dehumidifier in summer months that drains to my AC condensate pump for a hands-off solution. I am presuming the fact that the DriCore stands off the concrete permits moisture to be removed. I am guessing carpets alone would have been a stinky mess by now.

    Pins are happy down there.

    #65 3 years ago
    Quoted from markp99:

    I put DriCore in my basement >10-15yrs ago. Yes, was a bit expensive as noted, but went down quickly and without many complications. I do enjoy that my carpet and pad are not sitting on bare concrete. Much warmer underfoot.
    Our basement floor had some condensation issues prior to finishing the basement. No issues with mold/mildew all these years later. We do run a dehumidifier in summer months that drains to my AC condensate pump for a hands-off solution. I am presuming the fact that the DriCore stands off the concrete permits moisture to be removed. I am guessing carpets alone would have been a stinky mess by now.
    Pins are happy down there.

    Yes if you have a condensation problem then you need it.

    #66 3 years ago

    I'm planning a basement rehab soon and have been following these threads for a while. They are as inspiring as This Old House used to be for me.

    I don't have moisture issues in my basement, but it is really cold in the winter even though I'm in ATL. We will be putting nice carpet down.

    Does anyone have experience with DriCore R+ product and is it noticeably better than the reg product?

    Also if anyone has other product experience please let me know.

    #67 3 years ago

    DriCore R+ looks like it adds an R3 of foam insulation; seems pretty minimal. My DriCore subfloor with carpet pad and Berber carpet seems to do a good enough job. Cold carpets have never been a thought for us. Note: We only partially heat this space via forced hot air,. It's generally pretty cool down there, unless we open the nearby vent to warm things up a bit while we play. Still, it's air temp, not carpet temp that we mostly feel.

    http://www.dricore.com/en/rplus_about.aspx

    My first thought looking at the R+ product was it seems like it would add LOT of surface area in contact with the concrete, reducing airflow to a fraction of the original product. Maybe they have infused some sort of anti-fungal agent to the material?

    #68 3 years ago

    My currently subfloor plan is an underlayment of Delta FL followed by 7/16" OSB.

    http://www.cosella-dorken.com/bvf-ca-en/products/foundation_residential/floor/products/fl.php

    I'm not sure that I actually need a subfloor, but I'm planning on a mixture of engineered hardwood and carpet. The theater gets a thicker subfloor, so dealing with the transition between a 1" subfloor in the theater and no subfloor would probably be a pain.

    The subfloor would provide a thermal break from the slab along with a "softer" feel to the floor. I'm also a little worried about moisture accumulating under the pad if it were to lay directly on the concrete. I don't have any humidity issues in the basement, but I still don't want to deal with mold.

    My dad keeps telling me he doesn't think it's worth the money.

    #69 3 years ago

    I will say that our basement prior to my remodel was that thin crappy carpet put on the bare concrete. When we went with the DriCore we noticed a huge improvement in comfort standing as well as it felt less warm. Glad to hear others that have had it over 10 years. Ours is 4-5 years now and still holding up great even with pins there and my woman neighbor friend who's a bit heavy (5'4" and 320 lbs).

    #70 3 years ago

    We put down a very high quality pad and very high quality carpet on bare concrete. Wonderful thermal break. No moisture issues prior to finishing.

    Don't skimp on what is under your feet.

    #71 3 years ago

    Before I started my basement finish project ten years ago I coated all the poured foundation walls and floor with two coats of UGL Drylok. I have never had a problem with moisture and we have 9' foot ceilings and a high water table. I agree with your father. I plan on addding carpet/ pad directly over floor with some slate tile and engineered hardwood flooring glued directly to the floor. The whole idea is to create the largest space possible. Walls, dropped ceilings, sub-floors, etc. are just subtracting from that concept.

    #72 3 years ago
    Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

    My currently subfloor plan is an underlayment of Delta FL followed by 7/16" OSB.
    http://www.cosella-dorken.com/bvf-ca-en/products/foundation_residential/floor/products/fl.php
    I'm not sure that I actually need a subfloor, but I'm planning on a mixture of engineered hardwood and carpet. The theater gets a thicker subfloor, so dealing with the transition between a 1" subfloor in the theater and no subfloor would probably be a pain.
    The subfloor would provide a thermal break from the slab along with a "softer" feel to the floor. I'm also a little worried about moisture accumulating under the pad if it were to lay directly on the concrete. I don't have any humidity issues in the basement, but I still don't want to deal with mold.
    My dad keeps telling me he doesn't think it's worth the money.

    I put in a Delta FL system with a subfloor. You should also put landscaping fabric beneath the Delta as the plastic can click against the floor. (This is suggested in the install instructions). I put in a floating floor above that and it looks and feels great. Definitely helps create a thermal break in the floor as we live in Michigan and it can get really cold in the basement in the winter.

    For my walls, I put up 3/4" foam panels and then walls with insulation in between the studs. Keeps it pretty nice down there.

    #73 3 years ago

    I considered carpeting my new game room, but was spooked by my former room in IL that was carpeted - and trashed - four times in 12 years due to water damage. Although I moved to much higher ground in Colorado, it still left a bad taste in my mouth. So, I decided to try something new. Landed on a "polyaspartic" coated concrete with pure metallic fill. It starts out with machining the concrete with a diamond tipped sanding machine to scuff and flatten the surface. Then, a black binding material was applied. Once set, the poly two-part coating is blended with aluminum powder (my choice in colors) and applied using a trowel. Next, while the surface is setting, acetone is applied to various sections using a sprayer. This gives the surface a floating, cloud effect.

    I was concerned about the cold floor potential, but found a fix. My area is big in Radon gas in basements, so I had to put in a Radon mitigation system. This consists of a vacuum pump in the attic, and a 4 in. PVC pipe that starts at the pea gravel under the concrete floor. It runs continuously and siphons air from under the concrete to outside the roof of the house. The effect turns out to be a comfortably warm floor all winter. Although I can still use area rugs and runners in front of the pins, I really don't feel the need for that. Except maybe if you're spending a lot of time standing, it might be desirable to stay off the concrete.

    Low odor, and fully set in 24 hours. Although the process cost about twice what carpeting would have cost, the effect is stunning and it's the first comment people visiting make. Blacked out the ceiling with 36 gallons of flat black latex/primer combo and it works great.
    img12_(resized).jpg
    img09_(resized).jpg

    #74 3 years ago

    LOL...Radon.

    Yep, mitigation system here in my place in PA as well. I checked before doing the finishing. From 32 down to 4 post install.

    #75 3 years ago

    I did the plastic taped to the floor test. I taped, completly all the way around 8, 18 inch squares of polyethylene plastic film to 8 different sections of my floor and left them on for 48 hours and there was moisture on the underside of the plastic or the floor so I put down the Memory foam and carpet. 2 years and counting and no problems. I run a dehumidifier during the summer and pull about a gallon a week out of the air. It doesn't pull any out of the air in the winter. Google "Basement floor moisture vapor test" and a bunch of stuff comes up, that's how I found out about the test I did.

    #76 3 years ago

    My drywall guys will be done today after their final sanding, then it's on to paint. I went to Sherwin Williams yesterday to pick up 10g of PVA primer based on my brother in laws recommendation. He's a professional painter by trade, so I hope he knows what he's talking about.

    It should go on pretty quick since there isn't anything to cut in. I also bought one of the Wagner power roller things.

    IMG_0427_(resized).JPG

    #77 3 years ago
    Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

    My drywall guys will be done today after their final sanding, then it's on to paint. I went to Sherwin Williams yesterday to pick up 10g of PVA primer based on my brother in laws recommendation. He's a professional painter by trade, so I hope he knows what he's talking about.
    It should go on pretty quick since there isn't anything to cut in. I also bought one of the Wagner power roller things.

    Some advice....

    ...make sure you got any sanding dust off the bare drywall before you start. It leaves clumps if you don't.

    Also, bare drywall drinks primer...you may be surprised how much you need.

    #78 3 years ago
    Quoted from investingdad:

    bare drywall drinks primer...you may be surprised how much you need.

    Aint that the truth. I wouldn't be surprised if he needed another 5 gallons. Then most likely 2 coats of paint.

    #79 3 years ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    Aint that the truth. I wouldn't be surprised if he needed another 5 gallons. Then most likely 2 coats of paint.

    Yup, raw drywall and compound is a sponge. I'm guessing he'll need at least another 10gal. I'm surprised that 10gal would even be enough given the size of his space.

    Jaz

    P.S. Following this project - green with envy.

    #80 3 years ago

    Cant wait to see how it turns out

    #81 3 years ago

    I am very opinionated when it comes to paint. Most professionals insist that paint from the big box stores is inferior. How many paint contractor trucks do you see in the lot of your local Walmart store? I used/am using a premium paint from a company here in Ohio called "Porter Paints". They were recently bought out by PPG. Top coat goes for $65 a gallon. I used one coat of primer and two topcoats. I don't buy that gimmick about one coat will hide everything. I used some semi-gloss for baseboard moulding with a Purdy super-soft trim brush. There wasn't a single brush stroke mark to be had. I applaud your use of Sherwin Williams just like I would Pratt and Lambert. Clearly a case of "you get what you pay for."

    #82 3 years ago

    I will also add that I like the pink tinted ceiling paint that dries white (a clever bit of chemistry).

    It makes painting white ceilings a lot easier.

    I also used Sherwin Williams...the red paint on the accent wall looks awesome.

    #83 3 years ago

    Thanks everyone for the comments!!!

    According to the Sherwin Williams guys, the coverage for the PVA primer is ~350 - 400sq ft / gallon. I went off the drywallers estimate of 4,233sq ft of drywall. I'm hoping I have enough because it only comes in 5g buckets. It's pretty cheap, so I won't cry if I have to buy more.

    Quoted from investingdad:

    Some advice....

    ...make sure you got any sanding dust off the bare drywall before you start. It leaves clumps if you don't.

    My brother in law said the same thing.

    The drywallers finished up yesterday so I no longer have huge fans running 24/7 in the basement. I went to look at some flooring options and damn is that stuff expensive. It looks like carpet is going to run about $5.50sq yard and the hardwood upwards of 8sq foot not including installation.

    The gameroom + theater is about 980sq ft, so the carpet isn't going to be horrible. I need to measure the bar / pool table area. My design program doesn't break them out very well as far as measurements. After talking with the flooring place, I think I'm going to go with the memory foam (1/2") in the game room with a shorter nap berber type carpet.

    He also said that there was no reason for a sub floor under either. I think I'm still going to go with the Delta FL for the hardwood just for the thermal break, but skip the OSB.

    I wanted to get some painting done last night, but my wife bought a new microwave to go with her new stove, so I got stuck hanging that.

    #84 3 years ago

    Too bad you couldnt get paint done! How are you prepping the walls? Shop vac? I think im going to wait a bit to paint since my drywallers not done yet and i dont want to risk all the dust on wet paint

    #85 3 years ago

    One word of advice: Berber is a tremendous dust and dirt trap because of the high and low nap. I used that carpet in a game room and regretted it.

    It doesn't vacuum up like a normal carpet because of the deep grooves, but instead, stays discolored. Especially in a room where there is a lot of traffic and activity.

    A short nap, high density carpet would work better for you in the long run, IMO.

    #86 3 years ago
    Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

    Thanks everyone for the comments!!!
    According to the Sherwin Williams guys, the coverage for the PVA primer is ~350 - 400sq ft / gallon. I went off the drywallers estimate of 4,233sq ft of drywall. I'm hoping I have enough because it only comes in 5g buckets. It's pretty cheap, so I won't cry if I have to buy more.

    My brother in law said the same thing.
    The drywallers finished up yesterday so I no longer have huge fans running 24/7 in the basement. I went to look at some flooring options and damn is that stuff expensive. It looks like carpet is going to run about $5.50sq yard and the hardwood upwards of 8sq foot not including installation.
    The gameroom + theater is about 980sq ft, so the carpet isn't going to be horrible. I need to measure the bar / pool table area. My design program doesn't break them out very well as far as measurements. After talking with the flooring place, I think I'm going to go with the memory foam (1/2") in the game room with a shorter nap berber type carpet.
    He also said that there was no reason for a sub floor under either. I think I'm still going to go with the Delta FL for the hardwood just for the thermal break, but skip the OSB.
    I wanted to get some painting done last night, but my wife bought a new microwave to go with her new stove, so I got stuck hanging that.

    I payed $20 per yard for my black light carpet so $5.50 per yard aint bad......I know you meant per yard. I went with 3/8 inch Memory foam and love it. Got it at Menards when they had a 11% rebate sale.

    #87 3 years ago
    Quoted from ramegoom:

    One word of advice: Berber is a tremendous dust and dirt trap because of the high and low nap. I used that carpet in a game room and regretted it.
    It doesn't vacuum up like a normal carpet because of the deep grooves, but instead, stays discolored. Especially in a room where there is a lot of traffic and activity.
    A short nap, high density carpet would work better for you in the long run, IMO.

    Don't skimp on the carpet and pad. This is money well spent. A really dense carpet with medium nap is a good combo.

    Our mom and pop shop spent a lot of time with us trying different combos of pad and carpet. Don't do a big box on this one.

    #88 3 years ago
    Quoted from investingdad:

    Don't skimp on the carpet and pad. This is money well spent. A really dense carpet with medium nap is a good combo.
    Our mom and pop shop spent a lot of time with us trying different combos of pad and carpet. Don't do a big box on this one.

    Big Box is ok for the Memory Foam pad especially with an 11% rebate.

    #89 3 years ago

    I got a little work done over the weekend, but not as much as I hoped. Saturday was Home Depot run day to grab the subfloor for the theater. 75 Dricore tiles later and a bunch of tapcons, we were out the door.

    IMG_0450_(resized).JPG

    I had a picnic to go to on Saturday afternoon, so that day was shot. Sunday afternoon, I was able to get some priming done. I had no idea it would take as much time as it did. After 7 hours, I was only able to get the game room done and the bar area. You have to roll that stuff 2 or 3 times to get good coverage and get out those annoying lines that the roller leaves behind.

    The ceilings absolutely suck. What a pain in the ass!

    Here is what it looked like after the final sanding by the drywallers and then what it looked like after the primer. I used about 6 gallons, so I suspect I'll need more.

    IMG_0465_(resized).JPG

    IMG_0474_(resized).JPG

    IMG_0459_(resized).JPG

    IMG_0477_(resized).JPG

    #90 3 years ago
    Quoted from amkoepfer:

    Too bad you couldnt get paint done! How are you prepping the walls? Shop vac? I think im going to wait a bit to paint since my drywallers not done yet and i dont want to risk all the dust on wet paint

    To be honest, I didn't do any prep on the walls. After talking to the drywall company, they said that there was no reason for a wipe down of the walls before primer. I suspect they took care of it when they cleaned everything up, but I can't be sure.

    Are you priming first? I would suggest that you do, or the walls will be drinking the expensive paint instead of the primer.

    #91 3 years ago

    Looking good! Were you using a paint sprayer too or just a roller?

    #92 3 years ago

    Thanks!

    I bought the Wagner Sidekick. It was a lot of work even with the power roller. I couldn't imagine having to do it manually.

    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Wagner-9-in-Smart-SideKick-Multi-Room-Powered-Roller-System-0530010/204801788

    #93 3 years ago
    Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

    Thanks!
    I bought the Wagner Sidekick. It was a lot of work even with the power roller. I couldn't imagine having to do it manually.
    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Wagner-9-in-Smart-SideKick-Multi-Room-Powered-Roller-System-0530010/204801788

    Yea, if you're doing a lot, a sprayer or power roller will save you tons of time. I bet more than 50% of the motion you do while painting in "full manual" mode is wetting/evening it out in the paint tray. Then you go to the wall where you have tons of motion as well.

    I've painted a number of rooms in the last year and it takes WAY WAY WAY longer than you think it will!

    Jaz

    #94 3 years ago

    I have a good sprayer i borrowed from a guy at work, and a power roller, but itll be nice to know how it goes for you so i can avoid mistakes! Yours is looking great tho!

    #95 3 years ago

    WOW! Really looking good. Hope to see it when it's finished.

    #96 3 years ago

    Once the primer is on the topcoats go really nice.

    The basement was the first area I painted when I had the luxury of no drop cloth needed, went faster.

    Looks good!

    #97 3 years ago

    I did some more painting last night and was able to get the bar area and the bathroom done. I ran out of paint before I got to the ceilings in those room.

    It looks like I'll need more primer.

    I have to admit that it looks pretty good with just the primer. I jokingly told my wife last night that I'm going to throw a few rugs in the game room and call it a day.

    IMG_0543_(resized).JPG

    IMG_0545_(resized).JPG

    IMG_0544_(resized).JPG

    #98 3 years ago

    Looks great! How many gallons so far?

    #99 3 years ago

    It is looking great. I think a good primer layer on the ceiling is good enough for a finish coat since most ceiling white paints are a flat anyway (and seldom require cleaning). Obviously not good enough for the walls though.

    The key to sanity on a project like this is definitely what's in the bottom middle of the 2nd picture. I know it helps while I've been working on the long boring tasks like drywall and paint!

    Looking great so far!
    Jaz

    #100 3 years ago

    Yeah, I felt the same after I got two primer coats on. It started looking like a real space. Exciting!

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