I'm going to pick at your assertion a bit Crash. In particular, the word "has".
I'd love to see some scientific data on this, but all we have is anecdotal data, and good engineering judgement. In fact, on a "stock" game, =all= components are old (a relative term). All components are the same age. And, not all components age equally or have the same life expectancy.
In my actual board/game repair experience with WPC game systems, the predominant root cause of resets has been...
1. Poor connections, either from the power/driver board to the MPU or from the transformer secondary to the driver board.
2. "Hackish" attempts to replace BR2/C5 where through holes were compromised
Note that even my statement isn't compliant with the scientific method as I used the words "root cause". To truly attribute a root cause to a problem, we would need to reinstall the failed components into the game system, and verify that the failure occurs again. Sometimes that is possible (i.e. with socketed ICs) but sometimes it's infeasible to do so. And, technically, this doesn't 100% prove the component was at fault for all the same reasons that after installing a new component, the game seems to work. This is something only a "scientific process" geek could love.
The idea of "checking the easy things first" is =always= good advice, even though the things you are checking first might not be the highest probability root cause.
For instance, it's always good to replace a socketed IC with a known good example before desoldering anything on a PCB.
If your car suddenly dies, we look at the fuel gauge before we change the fuel pump. Again...start with the easy things.
The PinWiki states, "This order is a derived from a combination of "ease of examination" crossed with "probability of root cause". That's the way any good troubleshooting manual is written, be it for a pinball machine or a modern military aircraft that flies at mach 1.
In reviewing the "Game Resets" section headers below, it's immediately apparent that the Wiki recommends checking the easy things first.
And yes, it is tiring to see folks immediately jump to the BR2/C5 conclusion when the easy possible causes haven't been examined yet, and in general, most pinball owners should leave the soldering iron (or gun) in the tool box.
I hope this provides some insight into why the Wiki is structured like it is, and why I (and others) might bristle when someone leaps to a solution like "replace BR2/C5". And, I don't mean to impugn the opinions of others. Our knowledge is improved by leveraging the knowledge and experiences of others collectively.
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
------------------------- From www.PinWiki.com -------------------------
4.8 Game resets
4.8.1 The "Replace BR2 and C5 Mantra
4.8.2 WPC 5VDC Power Derivation Path
4.8.3 Low Line Voltage
4.8.4 Poor Ground Connection for Power/Driver Board
4.8.5 Cracked Power or Ground Header Pins and Cracked Solder Joints at the 5V Fuse
4.8.6 Missing diodes, open diodes, or cold solder joints at the Flipper coils
4.8.7 Poor Connections between the Transformer Secondary and the Power/Driver Board
4.8.8 Poor Connection at J101 on the Power/Driver Board
4.8.9 Poor Connections between the Power/Driver board, the CPU, and other PCBs
4.8.10 Using a Multimeter to Test the Bridge Rectifier and Capacitors
4.8.11 Failed Thermistor
4.8.12 Questionable Prior Rework
4.8.13 Failed Capacitors
4.8.14 Failed Bridge Rectifier
4.8.15 Failed Voltage Regulator
4.8.16 Failed Electrolytic Capacitor on the MPU
4.8.17 The Absolute Last Resort
4.8.18 The Conductive Grease Hack