(Topic ID: 157566)

Game plan Sharpshooter

By thebman80

8 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 24 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by thedefog
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

20160423_142333_(resized).jpg
20160416_193533_(resized).jpg
20160416_193550_(resized).jpg
20160416_231810_(resized).jpg
#1 8 years ago

I just got this Sharpshooter pin not to long ago and I need to confirm a few things before I move on into more debugging. First is there suppose to be one or two relays? I have seen conflicting pictures on the net were some games have one and some have two. Also are they both the same value if there is two or are they different? My next question is about the power supply it looks like the connector burned and broke off. I think I figured out how to rewire it just want to make sure before I put a fresh molex on it. The bottom pin is blank then 2 blue wires then another blank spot is that correct? Any help on that would be appreciated.

Good news is the CPU is blinking I'm guessing 3 it blinks really fast then keeps repeating the blinking sequence of 3 is that normal? I know it needs like 6 blinks and the board is good I'm just concerned that it keeps repeating the cycle of blinks over and over without stopping.

20160416_231810_(resized).jpg20160416_231810_(resized).jpg

20160416_193550_(resized).jpg20160416_193550_(resized).jpg

20160416_193533_(resized).jpg20160416_193533_(resized).jpg

#2 8 years ago

Sharpshooter only uses one relay. Andromeda and, I think, Cyclopes uses two. The other one to drive the flashers.

#3 8 years ago

3 flashes, but not 4 is a NMOS RAM problem. That power supply doesn't look familiar. Is this a Sharpshooter II?

#4 8 years ago
Quoted from slgerber:

That power supply doesn't look familiar. Is this a Sharpshooter II?

Yeah, that's not the original power supply board.

Quoted from SealClubber:

Sharpshooter only uses one relay.

Yep, sharpshooter only uses one.

#5 8 years ago

So is the power supply compatible? Or is that a major problem? Anyone have a PDF of the Power supply schematics for a Sharpshooter 2?

#6 8 years ago
Quoted from thebman80:

So is the power supply compatible? Or is that a major problem? Anyone have a PDF of the Power supply schematics for a Sharpshooter 2?

They should be on the IPDB pages for each title.

#7 8 years ago

Hey this is the one that was in my basement that I didn't get to finish! The issue with the MPU is with the sound board on this one. There is short on it that is preventing the game from booting properly (dipping logic voltage too low). I didn't get a chance to track down the short, but I suspect it is a faulty logic IC or one of those crappy green ceramic caps (3 month old in the house, no time to work on stuff). Disconnect the sound board and the game will boot for the time being so you can figure out the remaining issues I couldn't get to (Solenoid Driver section).

#8 8 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Yeah, that's not the original power supply board.

I thought the same. Had that head scratch moment when I had it at my house because the pcb is backward and so is the heat sink, but it is original. I guess they made a few in this configuration.

So thebman80, keep that in mind with the fuse location. Go by where they're wired to the rectifiers.

#9 8 years ago

BTW, the display decoder 74ls138 IC on that MPU is shot, which will explain why you're missing a digit on all your displays. That'll need to be replaced.

So, Sound board short, bad display decoder IC, and figure out why the solenoids aren't activating. Those were the 3 things I needed to finish on that game. Flippers worked.

#10 8 years ago

Stuff marked blue is potentially bad, but didn't get a chance to look into it. I mostly just replace stuff I suspect these days. Cheaper and faster to get it up and running.

I had very limited time to work on that game unfortunately, so I'd really like to see it completed and I'll help however I can. I hate leaving loose ends.

#11 8 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

They should be on the IPDB pages for each title.

When I looked they give the exact same schematics for Sharpshooter 2 as Sharpshooter. So either someone got lazy or there both the same.

Quoted from thedefog:

Hey this is the one that was in my basement that I didn't get to finish! The issue with the MPU is with the sound board on this one. There is short on it that is preventing the game from booting properly (dipping logic voltage too low). I didn't get a chance to track down the short, but I suspect it is a faulty logic IC or one of those crappy green ceramic caps (3 month old in the house, no time to work on stuff). Disconnect the sound board and the game will boot for the time being so you can figure out the remaining issues I couldn't get to (Solenoid Driver section).

Actually I got the PCB to boot with 6 flashes and it goes to game. All I did was take the PCB out to check one of the blue marked chips and tested it in my chip tester which tested good. Then Socked it and put it back in the game just to retest and it booted. I think all the edge connectors are bad so I have all new .100" connectors and pins on order. I already have a huge bag of .100" headers and the Displays also seem to work but the scoring is all screwed up. It will play some tunes when you hit some switches and I believe a tune when you hit start. But when the game is turned on its still an auditory mess. I'm going to repin the entire game then see what works and what doesn't. Have to test the coils and see if any are shorted next.

As long as the power supply is the same then I guess I'm good I just wish there was a Sharpshooter 2 schematic up and not a clone of the Sharpshooter schematic on IPDB.

#12 8 years ago
Quoted from thebman80:

When I looked they give the exact same schematics for Sharpshooter 2 as Sharpshooter. So either someone got lazy or there both the same.

Actually I got the PCB to boot with 6 flashes and it goes to game. All I did was take the PCB out to check one of the blue marked chips and tested it in my chip tester which tested good. Then Socked it and put it back in the game just to retest and it booted. I think all the edge connectors are bad so I have all new .100" connectors and pins on order. I already have a huge bag of .100" headers and the Displays also seem to work but the scoring is all screwed up. It will play some tunes when you hit some switches and I believe a tune when you hit start. But when the game is turned on its still an auditory mess. I'm going to repin the entire game then see what works and what doesn't. Have to test the coils and see if any are shorted next.
As long as the power supply is the same then I guess I'm good I just wish there was a Sharpshooter 2 schematic up and not a clone of the Sharpshooter schematic on IPDB.

That's good to know. Yeah, those connectors were in rough shape. I would have redone them if I had had more time to work on it. That doesn't surprise me that that's all it was.

What about the solenoid section? Or was the busted connector on the PSU the ground return for that?

#13 8 years ago

Not Sure about the Solenoids as of yet haven't had the time to even sit down the last few days lol. I believe that broken connector was for playfield light bulb power.

#14 8 years ago

thebman80, could you let thedefog know what you think is wrong with the midnight marauder, since he is my arcade repair guy. I noticed one burnt fuse and thats about the extent of my repairing capability. Except for pulling all pins, looking at them, and putting back in.

#15 8 years ago

My guess is that it's some sort of MPU issue it uses that same midway PCB as a lot of other pinball games. The guy I originally got it from got the game to boot using a baby Pacman PCB. Where did you find that blown fuse at?

#16 8 years ago
Quoted from thebman80:

The guy I originally got it from got the game to boot using a baby Pacman PCB.

So it has the jumpers to match with vidiot board, only does not use a vidiot board?

#17 7 years ago
Quoted from thedefog:

So it has the jumpers to match with vidiot board, only does not use a vidiot board?

Honestly I have no idea.

#18 7 years ago

I have spent last night and the morning/early afternoon today with the sound board. So far I almost have it working 100%. I found out that the SN76477N was bad in the circuit that controls all the main sounds. The chimes was the first thing I tackled and I replaced all the Transistors in the circuit and now they sound great. So I tested the SN76477N from the Explosion on the chimes circuit and that tested good and I tested the one for the main sounds and that tested bad just got scratchy chime sounds. So I reinstalled the good SN76477N from the Explosion sounds and put it in the main game sounds circuit and not all the sounds are right yet. Plus when I installed it I'm now getting a random "gun fire" shot noise that gets progressively get more and more as the game is on longer. I did notice that one of the switches in the drop target bank doesn't make the "Gun fire" sound when I push the leaf switch together all the others do. Maybe something with that will have to check. I replaced all the Transistors and Disc capacitors on the entire sound PCB which made a HUGE difference in the sounds. I'm guessing that there is still a bad IC on the PCB still I tested all the ones in the picture that are socketed with a chip tested. Unfortunately the rest I can't test with the tester I have so I'm going to have to figure something out.

I did add some jumpers for a logic probe and Traced the random gun fire signal up to the SN7432N location A chip I believe will have to recheck. I can see the signal pluse every time the gun fire sound goes off unless its related to that drop target SW it still has me scratching my head for the moment.

20160423_142333_(resized).jpg20160423_142333_(resized).jpg

#19 7 years ago

Man, that's more involved than I thought it was gonna be. I guess once you solve a short and can actually test something out, it doesn't always just spring back to life.

#20 7 years ago

Yeah The Game just died again late Saturday night. I'm going after the power supply next because all I did was plug in a few light bulbs and the game flipped out and wouldn't come back. I don't think its a fan of the small filter cap going to order a big one like the one originally on it plus replace all the bridge rectifiers and 5v regulator and Resistors.

#21 7 years ago
Quoted from thebman80:

Yeah The Game just died again late Saturday night. I'm going after the power supply next because all I did was plug in a few light bulbs and the game flipped out and wouldn't come back. I don't think its a fan of the small filter cap going to order a big one like the one originally on it plus replace all the bridge rectifiers and 5v regulator and Resistors.

When I got it, it had no LM329k on it at all. I threw one on it with new tantalums and replaced the original +5v cap. The first LM329K I had on it failed on me, not sure why. I had thought it was an issue with a short on the MPU, but no fuse popped.

As for the BRs, I was planning to swap them all out as well, but they're heftier than the Bally ones ( I think they're 25a 200v rated), so I decided not to, but in retrospect that was probably a bad idea as they've seen enough heat through the years.

Just curious why you would suspect the smaller physical size filter cap? I use modern smaller sized caps for replacement +5v filters all the time in pins and I've never had any problems with them. I'd like to know if I'm doing something wrong.

As a rule, I try and stay away from the expensive large computer power filter screw terminal caps, because unless you know the MF date codes, you could be replacing an old dried up cap with an old dried up cap. Done that before.

#22 7 years ago

I just figured to cover all bases. I just rebuild a QBert power supply and matched up the size of the cap. Never had any issues after that. I just thought it was really weird the issue with the randomly repeating sound they way it kept repeating like a capacitor randomly discharging is what made me thing of. When I tested for 5v on the CPU it was like at 8v So something with the 5v has to be screwy. Then I just came to the conclusion if I'm going to replace the 3 Bridge Rectifiers and the 5v regulator whats the difference if I just replace the 3 big resistors and Capacitor just for good measure. I get everything I can from Mouser so the Capacitor should be good.

I just figure with stuff like that big cap has a hell of a drain on it and the bigger one holds a bigger charge so the smaller one is charging and discharging at a faster rate that a larger one would. It's just the way I like to do stuff try to match them up like they were originally made.

#23 7 years ago

The only differences I am tracking between SS1 and SS2 are the artwork and SS2 uses replaces all those star rollovers with a single wire switch.
I think SS2 looks better. Who can not like Quigley Down Under?

#24 7 years ago
Quoted from thebman80:

I get everything I can from Mouser so the Capacitor should be good.

Me too, although they've gotten in some newer Chinese cap manufacturers I'm not too sure about. I try and stick with the Nichion, Panasonic, Illinois Cap, & Kemet caps when possible.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 12.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
UpKick Pinball
 
$ 129.99
Boards
PinballReplacementParts
 
From: $ 30.00
Cabinet Parts
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 16.50
Magazines/books
Pinball Magazine
 

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/game-plan-sharpshooter and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.