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(Topic ID: 84286)

Game Plan Power Supply Bench Testing Made Easy


By SchertzPinball

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 22 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by njPinWiz
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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    #1 6 years ago

    I like my Game Plan games, but getting to the test points isn't nearly as convenient as they are on the Bally games. So today, I took out the whole transformer assembly and made a simple jig to power it up on the bench.

    I took a lamp cord and put a .093 female connector on each wire.
    20140316_231009-817.jpg
    Then plugged each connector end onto the male connectors coming of the transformer.
    20140316_231037-932.jpg
    Put an alligator clip between the black lead of your meter and the ground clip on the rectifier board. Plug in the test cord and you have power to the transformer and easy access to all the test points.

    Jason

    Test point values are:

    TP1- 12V
    TP2 - 5V
    TP3 - 7V
    TP4 - 24V
    The top of fuse #1 can be used for the AC test point at 6.3VAC.

    #2 6 years ago

    Excellent idea.

    Don't let the kids get a hold of that cord though.........

    #3 6 years ago

    You're right, I do need to make it a little bit safer.

    #4 6 years ago

    You could leave them plugged together as a short.

    That way the breaker would trip if the kids plunged it in....

    #5 6 years ago

    Good idea. Now all you need is a harness cable to bring the three voltages you need to the MPU board to power that on the bench at the same time to get the six flashes!

    viperrwk

    #6 6 years ago

    I like the harness idea. I was just going to put it back in the game. Do you know which pins I need to do it? I can look it up, but it would save time if you knew off the top of your head.

    Jason

    #7 6 years ago

    It's a straight shot from that bottom 15 pin black .156 connector in your photo to the .100 connector at J1 on the MPU board - pin 1 to 1, 2 to 2, ... key 6 to key 6, etc.

    At a minimum I'd do 3, 11, 13 &15

    gpps.jpg

    viperrwk

    #8 6 years ago

    I made the harness as suggested. Hooked it up and 6 blinks. A lot easier than trying to do this in the game. Thank you for the tip.

    Jason

    20140320_105347.jpg
    #9 6 years ago

    Nicely done!

    Too bad there aren't too many of the GP power supplies to spare to do this. But next machine you work on you'll be ready!

    viperrwk

    #10 6 years ago

    I actually have a spare one. I picked it up on ebay awhile back to have an extra.

    #11 6 years ago
    Quoted from SchertzPinball:

    I actually have a spare one. I picked it up on ebay awhile back to have an extra.

    Nice - that makes bench testing the MPU board that much easier. I agree with you - always a pain to do it in the machine because you want to make sure you get the 6 flashes.

    Could also make additional harnesses to power other boards on the bench that need only +5/12v.

    viperrwk

    #12 6 years ago

    I have a power supply out of an old plotter/printer that I made harnesses to test Bally and Williams boards on the bench. I really like making my own test equipment.

    11 months later
    #13 5 years ago

    Not sure if I should have posted a new thread on this or not. I have 24v on my MPU bot I don't have 5v. The manual tells me to check the LM323K regulator. Looking at the schematic it isn't clear how it is powered. It does show "L60V5", what exactly is this? I guess I could just take the thing apart and find out.

    1 month later
    #14 5 years ago

    Nice bench test solution. I have a question on Test Point 4 - my reading is 32v (the pin repair manual indicates a range of 24-30 is ok). Does 32v appear to be a problem? This game is a project game and I am trying to not jump ahead and add all the connectors to the power supply until the TP's readings are good.

    Thanks.

    #15 5 years ago

    Not a problem.

    viperrwk

    #16 5 years ago
    Quoted from viperrwk:

    Not a problem.

    Thanks viperrwk.

    1 year later
    #17 4 years ago
    Quoted from rad:

    Nice bench test solution. I have a question on Test Point 4 - my reading is 32v (the pin repair manual indicates a range of 24-30 is ok). Does 32v appear to be a problem? This game is a project game and I am trying to not jump ahead and add all the connectors to the power supply until the TP's readings are good.
    Thanks.

    I get the same reading at TP4 (32V). I also get 16V at TP1 (no connectors on the rectifier board) and 4V at TP3. I do get 5V at TP2 though. Do I have suspect bridge rectifiers? I have no blown fuses...

    #18 4 years ago

    What is it specifically about the GP PSU design that makes it so special that you can't get a MPU board to boot from a bench supply? I read all the guides explaining that a ATX PSU or bench PSU wouldn't do the job, but they don't explained why a modern switching supply doesn't work in detail. I'd love to know the exact reason. Is it some odd property of the LM328k? Or the split power config on the MPU?

    #19 4 years ago
    Quoted from thedefog:

    What is it specifically about the GP PSU design that makes it so special that you can't get a MPU board to boot from a bench supply? I read all the guides explaining that a ATX PSU or bench PSU wouldn't do the job, but they don't explained why a modern switching supply doesn't work in detail. I'd love to know the exact reason. Is it some odd property of the LM328k? Or the split power config on the MPU?

    Maybe it needs 24v to boot properly? With classic Bally/Stern, you can at least trick the MPU to fully boot without the 21v.

    [edit]: Yep, just checked the manual. The first flash checks for +5v and +24v, among other things.

    pasted_image_(resized).png

    #20 4 years ago

    So the split power config is the issue. PITA. But if you had a variable bench PSU, you could create that +24v for it.

    7 months later
    #21 3 years ago

    I notice that my gameplan sharp shooter ii has the AC input to the xformer connected to the 2nd and rear sets of lugs whereas the OP of this thread's xformer has them connected to the front and rear. Does this matter?

    11 months later
    #22 2 years ago

    I know this is an old post, but am looking for help. ShertzPinball (or anyone) can you take a photo of the back side of the power supply board? I need to see how the wiring is done so that I can replicate that on a new board I purchased recently for Sharpshooter. Thanks.

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