(Topic ID: 71772)

Game Plan owners club. Welcome!


By SpOoKyRiDeS

5 years ago



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  • 417 posts
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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Nikrox2
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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider viperrwk.
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#5 5 years ago

Just scanned, optimized, OCRd and uploaded the OCI parts manual to IPDB. We'll see how long it takes Jay to post it live. Since many parts are shared with Sharpshooter it might help some folks. If you need a copy before it gets posted feel free to PM me and I'll email it to you.

BTW I also found an error in the parts catalog. On page 23 in the parts listing for the SDU, for item 13 it says 4.7k ohm resistor. In fact this should be a 3.3k ohm resistor.

viperrwk

1 month later
#11 5 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

Just scanned, optimized, OCRd and uploaded the OCI parts manual to IPDB. We'll see how long it takes Jay to post it live. Since many parts are shared with Sharpshooter it might help some folks. If you need a copy before it gets posted feel free to PM me and I'll email it to you.
BTW I also found an error in the parts catalog. On page 23 in the parts listing for the SDU, for item 13 it says 4.7k ohm resistor. In fact this should be a 3.3k ohm resistor.
viperrwk

I had forgotten I posted this here. This is live now on IPDB: http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=553

viperrwk

1 month later
#17 5 years ago

FYI -
I just uploaded to IPDB an OCR-searchable, 600 dpi, 11"x17" scan of the complete (AFAIK) schematics for OCI. I have proposed to Jay that this file REPLACE the existing .ZIP file with schematics in the OCI entry since in addition to having the same documents that are in the .ZIP, it also contains the schematics for the insert panel, cabinet wiring, SSU-3 sound board and solenoids. The best part is none of them are broken into two 8.5x11 pages you have to piece together! This should help both OCI and SS owners since schematically, they are virtually identical. Sharpshooter uses SSU-2 sound board which has some slightly different resistors and capacitors on the board to shape the sounds to the game. The insert panel schematic actually says "Mod. 130 - Sharp Shooter" on it! If someone needs a copy before it goes live on the site just PM me and I can send it to you.

viperrwk

2 months later
#22 5 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

FYI -
I just uploaded to IPDB an OCR-searchable, 600 dpi, 11"x17" scan of the complete (AFAIK) schematics for OCI. I have proposed to Jay that this file REPLACE the existing .ZIP file with schematics in the OCI entry since in addition to having the same documents that are in the .ZIP, it also contains the schematics for the insert panel, cabinet wiring, SSU-3 sound board and solenoids. The best part is none of them are broken into two 8.5x11 pages you have to piece together! This should help both OCI and SS owners since schematically, they are virtually identical. Sharpshooter uses SSU-2 sound board which has some slightly different resistors and capacitors on the board to shape the sounds to the game. The insert panel schematic actually says "Mod. 130 - Sharp Shooter" on it! If someone needs a copy before it goes live on the site just PM me and I can send it to you.
viperrwk

Update:
Jay has pushed this live on the site:

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/553/Game_Plan_1979_Old_Coney_Island_Schematics_OCR_searchable_paginated.pdf

viperrwk

2 months later
#25 5 years ago

I can tell you that the coil stops are the same on all GP mechs, so you can use the coil stop from the sling or kickout to replace the flipper stop.

If you don't have a spare let me know - I think I have an extra I can send you.

I'll also try to mic up Williams and GP flipper coils to see if it would fit.

viperrwk

#30 5 years ago

GP only used two different coils for the flippers.

The 50002 was used on the cocktail machines and was the lower power flipper coil. The 50008 was used on the upright machines and was the higher power coil. Obviously, Andromeda used the 50008 which is a 22-375/30-800 on the windings. If you have a different coil there that could further explain your strong flippers.

viperrwk

1 month later
#42 5 years ago

I Need Your Help to Help You

Dear Game Plan owners -
I am in need of your help for the next installment of my shotgun guide - the SDU-1. I have been scouring schematics and looking at boards and manuals and one of the things I am looking to put together is a table which will help you to easily identify where the problem is when a solenoid goes bad. Unfortunately, I do not own every Game Plan machine made nor have access to the documentation for every one. Additionally, GP made it very difficult because their solenoid numbering and power transistor use changed from game to game (with very little consistency.) For example, did you know the knocker was always hooked to Q1 on the SDU (when a game was equipped with a knocker) but could be numbered 07, 11 or even 020 in the solenoid test depending upon the game? And that early uprights used Q6 for the outhole kicker but later models used Q14? Knowing all this and more will make it easier when troubleshooting and swapping boards as well as replacing components.

Anyway, if you own ANY GP game and would like to help, there are three things you can do:

1 - go to your machine and run the solenoid test. As it runs, make note of the solenoid number on the display and which solenoid is actually firing. Then compile the list and post it. For example:

Model 110 cocktail (Real, Rio, Black Velvet, etc.)
010 - outhole
020 - knocker
030 - chime d etc etc

being sure to note if a number comes up and nothing happens.

2 - if it's still in your backbox, take a photo of the solenoid and switch identification page that is stapled to your insert board and post it with your test results. Or if you can't/won't/don't know how to run the solenoid test, please consider posting a photo of this page anyway. Even if you don't have a manual this will help you in identifying which solenoids are firing during the test.

3 - lastly, if you have any documentation for your machine and it's not already posted on IPDB, please consider scanning and posting the info to Jay for inclusion in the database, especially things like playfield and backbox schematics and parts listings. These oftentimes have revision notes on them and these can be quite useful in tracking down important changes that were made along the way. And I'd be willing to take a copy by email as well since Jay takes a while to get things posted.

Thanks in advance for any help you can render and look forward to the next installment soon.

viperrwk

#45 5 years ago

And I believe Cyclopes used the most power transistors on the SDU-1 of any GP machine - 17 of the 19 in total.

viperrwk

#47 5 years ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:

When I get mine working, I would be happy to help. Hopefully soon, just waiting on parts.

If you have the solenoid sheet in the backbox a pic will help.

viperrwk

#51 5 years ago
Quoted from catboxer:

Sharpshooter did not have a knocker, correct?

Correct. From my research, GP's use of the knocker is very curious given it's importance in pinball. All their cocktail machines had knockers except for their last one, Lady Sharpshooter, where the schematics list the knocker as "optional". Yet, uprights didn't have knockers until at least after Global Warfare and perhaps as late as Andromeda. Exactly when, what, and why I do not know and any answers I have would be speculation. Cost savings would be the guess but seems a penny-wise, pound-foolish move compared to the competition.

viperrwk

2 weeks later
#56 5 years ago

Thanks for posting!

viperrwk

1 week later
#58 5 years ago
Quoted from surfsled:

Hi
I am trying to get my Game Plan foxy lady cocktail up and running.
I have a new MPU board from Echo Lake pinball.
I have everything working except for the displays (correct voltage coming out of the MPU board)
and also the only rollerover that works is the top one. Any ideas?
thanks in advance
Jeff Rank

Do you get all six flashes to the MPU?
Did you run the diagnostic tests?
Try disconnecting one of the displays and see if the other one works. If not, reverse and try again.

The MPU must fully boot for you to get anything on the displays. If it does, you should get *something* on the display even if it's garbage. If you get nothing, it's possible you have a bad cable and the displays are not getting any power (unlikely). It's rare you get absolutely nothing on the displays when the machine is fully booted.

viperrwk

#61 5 years ago

Someone obviously mishandled the cable at some point. Unfortunately that ribbon cable is a bit tricky to come by. Your best bet is to order the ribbon and connectors and make it yourself, unless someone has a cocktail they are parting (different cable than what was used in the uprights).

viperrwk

#64 5 years ago
Quoted from surfsled:

Thanks
Yes I am know the cable is different. Only the #1 small cable is broken. Do you think I could do a long smaller jumper wire to the 3 boards just for that wire?
Jeff

You can try it - basically anything you do will be an improvisation.

viperrwk

#65 5 years ago
Quoted from JosiahCox:

So I am finally going to be getting around to working on fixing my Star Trip and I could use help.
It fires ups but the fuse under the playfield will get read hot and blow within 10 seconds or so of the power being on. Pretty sure that fuse goes to the pops, slingshots, kickout hole etc.
Any suggestions on where I should start? I already looked for shorts or potential grounds in the wiring and didn't see anything on my first go round.
I really would like to get it working. The boards appear to be in decent shape. Any help would be hugely appreciated. Thanks!

First need to do a resistance check on all the coils and make sure they are ok. After that check the power transistors on the SDU-1. I'm pulling together the next chapter on Game Plan board repairs - it happens to be on the SDU-1. It's actually pretty easy to diagnose and repair the SDU. If you want a preview PM me.

viperrwk

1 week later
#68 4 years ago

In case any GP owners missed this, a call for help:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/calling-cyclopes-owners-please-help

viperrwk

5 months later
#89 4 years ago

Game Plan used Mat-N-Lok connectors between the head and cab. These typically get corroded and cause connector problems to the playfield. As long as you replace both sides of the connector in a way that you won't confuse it with the other connectors, doesn't really matter what you use.

viperrwk

#93 4 years ago
Quoted from indy5mike:

Hey guys,
I am having trouble with the Coney Island i just bought. It starts a game and the ball ejects but none of the coils work nor does any scoring. I have checked all the connectors, fuses, and reseated socketed items. The coils work in test. The seller claims it was working and i really do believe him. Any ideas?

Do the switches work in test?

viperrwk

#94 4 years ago
Quoted from rad:

Anybody have a Sharpshooter II that could take a couple pics for me of the kick out area (plastics and posts) as well as the mini orbit behind the kick out? I think the SS-II that I picked up recently has a couple missing posts and plastics are broken/missing. Thanks.

Don't have a SSII - best I can do for you. Yellow are the rubber rings highlighted.

viperrwk

Sharp Shooter II Playfield Diagram

Sharp Shooter II Playfield Parts Listing - Top

#97 4 years ago

I don't own an Andromeda or any other later GP machines that use the 2732 ROMs.

However, I can confirm and have tested in the emulator that switches 23 and 24 do indeed set the number of balls per game for Andromeda and that turning both on should set the machine for 5 ball play, regardless of the ROM version you have installed in the machine (there are at least two known versions for Andromeda just like there are for Cyclopes).

If it's not working for you you might have a bad DIP bank or bad diodes on the switches - a common problem if there was any board corrosion.

viperrwk

1 week later
1 week later
#104 4 years ago

Check the mat-n-lok connectors between the cab and head. These have a tendency to get corroded and have a poor connection. Your intermittant problem sounds like its there. Honestly, all the connectors between the backbox and cab should probably be repinned.

viperrwk

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