Just scanned, optimized, OCRd and uploaded the OCI parts manual to IPDB. We'll see how long it takes Jay to post it live. Since many parts are shared with Sharpshooter it might help some folks. If you need a copy before it gets posted feel free to PM me and I'll email it to you.

BTW I also found an error in the parts catalog. On page 23 in the parts listing for the SDU, for item 13 it says 4.7k ohm resistor. In fact this should be a 3.3k ohm resistor.

viperrwk

I had forgotten I posted this here. This is live now on IPDB: http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=553

viperrwk

FYI -
I just uploaded to IPDB an OCR-searchable, 600 dpi, 11"x17" scan of the complete (AFAIK) schematics for OCI. I have proposed to Jay that this file REPLACE the existing .ZIP file with schematics in the OCI entry since in addition to having the same documents that are in the .ZIP, it also contains the schematics for the insert panel, cabinet wiring, SSU-3 sound board and solenoids. The best part is none of them are broken into two 8.5x11 pages you have to piece together! This should help both OCI and SS owners since schematically, they are virtually identical. Sharpshooter uses SSU-2 sound board which has some slightly different resistors and capacitors on the board to shape the sounds to the game. The insert panel schematic actually says "Mod. 130 - Sharp Shooter" on it! If someone needs a copy before it goes live on the site just PM me and I can send it to you.

viperrwk

Update:
Jay has pushed this live on the site:

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/553/Game_Plan_1979_Old_Coney_Island_Schematics_OCR_searchable_paginated.pdf

viperrwk

I can tell you that the coil stops are the same on all GP mechs, so you can use the coil stop from the sling or kickout to replace the flipper stop.

If you don't have a spare let me know - I think I have an extra I can send you.

I'll also try to mic up Williams and GP flipper coils to see if it would fit.

viperrwk

GP only used two different coils for the flippers.

The 50002 was used on the cocktail machines and was the lower power flipper coil. The 50008 was used on the upright machines and was the higher power coil. Obviously, Andromeda used the 50008 which is a 22-375/30-800 on the windings. If you have a different coil there that could further explain your strong flippers.

viperrwk

I Need Your Help to Help You

Dear Game Plan owners -
I am in need of your help for the next installment of my shotgun guide - the SDU-1. I have been scouring schematics and looking at boards and manuals and one of the things I am looking to put together is a table which will help you to easily identify where the problem is when a solenoid goes bad. Unfortunately, I do not own every Game Plan machine made nor have access to the documentation for every one. Additionally, GP made it very difficult because their solenoid numbering and power transistor use changed from game to game (with very little consistency.) For example, did you know the knocker was always hooked to Q1 on the SDU (when a game was equipped with a knocker) but could be numbered 07, 11 or even 020 in the solenoid test depending upon the game? And that early uprights used Q6 for the outhole kicker but later models used Q14? Knowing all this and more will make it easier when troubleshooting and swapping boards as well as replacing components.

Anyway, if you own ANY GP game and would like to help, there are three things you can do:

1 - go to your machine and run the solenoid test. As it runs, make note of the solenoid number on the display and which solenoid is actually firing. Then compile the list and post it. For example:

Model 110 cocktail (Real, Rio, Black Velvet, etc.)
010 - outhole
020 - knocker
030 - chime d etc etc

being sure to note if a number comes up and nothing happens.

2 - if it's still in your backbox, take a photo of the solenoid and switch identification page that is stapled to your insert board and post it with your test results. Or if you can't/won't/don't know how to run the solenoid test, please consider posting a photo of this page anyway. Even if you don't have a manual this will help you in identifying which solenoids are firing during the test.

3 - lastly, if you have any documentation for your machine and it's not already posted on IPDB, please consider scanning and posting the info to Jay for inclusion in the database, especially things like playfield and backbox schematics and parts listings. These oftentimes have revision notes on them and these can be quite useful in tracking down important changes that were made along the way. And I'd be willing to take a copy by email as well since Jay takes a while to get things posted.

Thanks in advance for any help you can render and look forward to the next installment soon.

viperrwk

And I believe Cyclopes used the most power transistors on the SDU-1 of any GP machine - 17 of the 19 in total.

viperrwk

If you have the solenoid sheet in the backbox a pic will help.

viperrwk

Correct. From my research, GP's use of the knocker is very curious given it's importance in pinball. All their cocktail machines had knockers except for their last one, Lady Sharpshooter, where the schematics list the knocker as "optional". Yet, uprights didn't have knockers until at least after Global Warfare and perhaps as late as Andromeda. Exactly when, what, and why I do not know and any answers I have would be speculation. Cost savings would be the guess but seems a penny-wise, pound-foolish move compared to the competition.

viperrwk

Thanks for posting!

viperrwk

Do you get all six flashes to the MPU?
Did you run the diagnostic tests?
Try disconnecting one of the displays and see if the other one works. If not, reverse and try again.

The MPU must fully boot for you to get anything on the displays. If it does, you should get *something* on the display even if it's garbage. If you get nothing, it's possible you have a bad cable and the displays are not getting any power (unlikely). It's rare you get absolutely nothing on the displays when the machine is fully booted.

viperrwk

Someone obviously mishandled the cable at some point. Unfortunately that ribbon cable is a bit tricky to come by. Your best bet is to order the ribbon and connectors and make it yourself, unless someone has a cocktail they are parting (different cable than what was used in the uprights).

viperrwk

You can try it - basically anything you do will be an improvisation.

viperrwk

First need to do a resistance check on all the coils and make sure they are ok. After that check the power transistors on the SDU-1. I'm pulling together the next chapter on Game Plan board repairs - it happens to be on the SDU-1. It's actually pretty easy to diagnose and repair the SDU. If you want a preview PM me.

viperrwk

In case any GP owners missed this, a call for help:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/calling-cyclopes-owners-please-help

viperrwk

Game Plan used Mat-N-Lok connectors between the head and cab. These typically get corroded and cause connector problems to the playfield. As long as you replace both sides of the connector in a way that you won't confuse it with the other connectors, doesn't really matter what you use.

viperrwk

Do the switches work in test?

viperrwk

Don't have a SSII - best I can do for you. Yellow are the rubber rings highlighted.

viperrwk

Sharp Shooter II Playfield Diagram

Sharp Shooter II Playfield Parts Listing - Top

I don't own an Andromeda or any other later GP machines that use the 2732 ROMs.

However, I can confirm and have tested in the emulator that switches 23 and 24 do indeed set the number of balls per game for Andromeda and that turning both on should set the machine for 5 ball play, regardless of the ROM version you have installed in the machine (there are at least two known versions for Andromeda just like there are for Cyclopes).

If it's not working for you you might have a bad DIP bank or bad diodes on the switches - a common problem if there was any board corrosion.

viperrwk

J2 Q19.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/game-plan-mpu-repair-a-shotgun-guide-w-pix/page/2#post-2048653

viperrwk

Check the mat-n-lok connectors between the cab and head. These have a tendency to get corroded and have a poor connection. Your intermittant problem sounds like its there. Honestly, all the connectors between the backbox and cab should probably be repinned.

viperrwk