I have a Game Plan Old Coney Island! that I have replaced the power board (PSU-1) with one from Gulf Pinball, who seems to be making a lot of replacement boards lately. Anyway, I also have an original power board (both are all installed to a transformer), and I've noticed some differences between them. The transformer assemblies were taken from 2 different machines (obviously), and thus it could be that they had different pin wiring - IOW, the board that is the "original one" might or might not be the one that was actually installed in the current cabinet. (The other cabinet is not available for inspection.)

[1] The Gulf Pinball board has the 680Ω resistor as dead (i.e., only one side is connected to anything, with the other side free), while the original board has this free side connected to ground. There is also a wire connect hole at this free side, but the directions that came with the board don't direct for any line to be connected there. And looking at the schematic that I have found online, this resistor doesn't even seem to exist.

[2] The Gulf Pinball board has the J5 connector (15-pin) key location as upside down relative to the original board - i.e., the key for the original board has the key at pin position #11 from the top while the Gulf Pinball board has the key as position 5 from the top, which corresponds to being pin position #11 from the bottom). However, the leads all match if referenced to the vertical positioning, and the actual cabinet wiring matches the original board (i.e., the leads relative to the key are the same for the original board and cabinet harness) - and this all matches the schematic. Thus, it would appear that the Gulf Pinball board has been done wrong. Indeed, the marking on the Gulf Pinball board shows the key as being position #5 from the top (there is no marking as to what is index 1), which matches where the key is. It seems to be as though the design for the Gulf Pinball board is such that it has been decided to make the key #5 instead of #11 (i.e, using the vertical positioning as the reference).

[3] There is also a difference in the wiring such that on the schematic & original board have the node (call it NODE A) from the 6.3V fuse (opposite the line from the transformer) going to pin position #2-4 and the ground going to pin position #6-8 - while the Gulf Pinball board has NODE A going to pin position #6-8.

So my first question is to anyone that has used this board, and has figured out what the deal is. The second question is what is the E-mail address of Gulf, as I would like to ask them about it.

The solution for [1] could be as easy as simply adding a jumper, with this extra jumper being part of the design. Perhaps it is not needed.

However, the solution for [2] - if it is to be such that either transformer assembly could be used as "plug & play" - is not apparent, although as the schematic & original board have pin position #5 as dead, and the cabinet has pin position #10 as dead, pins #5 & #10 could be clipped for it to fit.

The solution for [3] could only be that it makes no difference.

In general, I could buy the idea that [1] & [3] are valid designs, but I can't figure out how [2] is not a design error. Surely, there must be someone here who has used this replacement board.

Now a question about the remanufactured board from Echo Lake Pinball. I notice that this board has metal holes for the supports. Is it supposed to be screwed in somehow so that there is a ground to the backbox metal sheet? Or it is supposed to be floated on plastic supports like all of the other boards?

I have a question about the front door lock for a regular-size Game Plan pin (Old Coney Island!). A standard lock cam does not reach the cabinet, and only impinges on the coin door metal frame. I don't see any screw holes on the cabinet near there, so there doesn't seem to be any bracket that I am missing. I would find it hard to believe that it is supposed to be metal on metal - and in any case, the cam is off from the cabinet by about 1/8" (presuming the standard 7/8" lock barrel). It's almost as if there should be a rubber sleeve of this internal thickness that is put onto the cam. What do the Game Plan owners here see on their own rig?

Hello all. I have an Old Coney Island that I have finally gotten around to working on. I had had a problem with the general illumination lamps causing an immediate short upon startup, but by cleaning all the lamp sockets and moving around some suspiciously close wires, I've fixed that, and everything seems to power up fine (I have an Echo Lake replacement MPU).

However, there is one problem. I had bought a very good "complete" set (or what was represented on eBay as a complete set), but it turns out that it is missing the plastic that surrounds the bonus multiplier hole (seems to be # 00070 or 00079). I had bought 2 complete machines (one with a badly repainted playfield, but with a good, blue cabinet, and one with a fairly good playfield but with the white cabinet). They both had various missing plastics, and since I had bought the "complete" set on eBay, I didn't take a close look. So now that I am missing that plastic from the "complete" set, I looked at the old plastics, and of course that plastic was not part of any of those pins.

It would thus seem that this plastic seems to be one that is always broken, and therefore unobtanium for a lot of owners, so I am wondering what I should do about it.

Needs to be an immigrant ethnic name that would be at home as a stripper's stage name; I say "Goldie".

My Old Coney Island! keeps blowing the 10A (+24V) fuse upon startup (power up is fine); it's a Gulf reproduction of the PSU-1, with the errors from that board fixed. I had read that I should check the rectifier bridges, so using the diode setting I get:

MIDDLE (which seems to be the one going to that fuse):

X .50 .001 .87

.86 X .86 .45

.001 .5 X .87

.49 .37 .49 X

TOP:

X .484 .001 .001

.58 X .58 .112

.001 .484 X .58

.49 .112 .47 X

BOTTOM:

X .001 .49 .57

.001 X .48 .94*

.94* .93 X .47*

.48 .48 .50* X

* - denotes that it took a while to reach this reading

I have no idea what these readings are supposed to mean. The MIDDLE one has a 700 ohm R. while the BOTTOM one has a 100 ohm R.

I had a pair of Game Plan Old Coney Island pins, and of all of them, there were only 2 pairs of coil stops with core that were in good shape, so I attempted to install them into a pair of NOS flipper assembly plates. The only problem is that the holes for the coil stops are sized for a #5 screw, not the #6 screw that is in the documentation. (The previous tech had simply used sheet metal screws, which stripped out the insert cut on the flipper assembly plates, thereby necessitating the new plates.) At first, the #5 screws seem to work well in the insert cut, but eventually gave way.

So the first order of business is to get the pair of coil stops that are proper for Game Plan - made more difficult because they seem to be Unobtanium. The next is to figure out where these coil stops came from that have holes for a #5 screw.

EDIT: I think I have figured out that I was using a Williams coil stop that is sized for #5.

What to do about replacing flipper plunger links? The ones I have look to have a good amount of wear (or perhaps a bad cut job), so I'd like to get proper ones. I figure I'll have to assemble it, but what parts to get? Is there any drawing that has the proper shape of the fiber?

By "crank", do you mean "pawl"?

Also, what about the flipper shaft/shoe? They seem to be aluminum.

But the Game Plan one is aluminum = much lighter = faster.

What about for the coil retaining bracket? I think I might need these as well.

Marco's has that coil stop you mentioned, and states that it is a "possible substitute" for Game Plan flippers, and cross-references it to Chicago Coin 1A-270-2.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-186\\

Interestingly, Marco's has this part for early-Stern & Chicago Coin, the referenced number of which is 1A-271, so it would appear to match with the 1A-270-2:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/1A-271

The big question is whether these 2 brackets line up perfectly, with the plunger axis being perfectly parallel to the base plate (i.e., upon which is attached these 2 brackets).

And while we're on the subject of Game Plan flippers, what do you do about the fiber link? The ones for mine seem a bit chewed up, although maybe they were cut that way.

By the time the games have made their way to us, they have had who knows how many part substitutions. All I am saying is that the flipper shaft/shoes on mine are aluminum. But judging by how fast they are, maybe I should slow them down with heavier steel shoes. I understand that there is a problem with the Old Coney Island or Sharpshooter targets getting broken.

OK, I have an update. It turns out that the retaining bracket is fine, as is everything but the plate, which for one set of holes has an insert cut for a #8-32 screw. So I gently cored out slightly bigger holes for the retaining bracket, and now everything works great.

I do have another question. I have a bad test button - which is OK since I have a spare off of another Game Plan - but there is no diode on it, and so I have to figure out which input wire - the orange or brown (black?) - gets the diode, and in which direction the diodes point. I've looked at the schematics (at least the ones I have), and it doesn't seem to show this.

Any know this, or could take a look at his pin to see what he's got?

UPDATE: I have found a proper schematic at the Game Plan website.