(Topic ID: 71772)

Game Plan owners club. Welcome!

By SpOoKyRiDeS

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 998 posts
  • 138 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 days ago by swampwiz
  • Topic is favorited by 46 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

PXL_20231203_012133885 (resized).jpg
PXL_20231203_012157864 (resized).jpg
PXL_20231203_012033801 (resized).jpg
PXL_20231203_011913102.MP (resized).jpg
PXL_20231203_011831561 (resized).jpg
PXL_20231202_225239460 (resized).jpg
IMG_6967.jpeg
IMG_2498 (resized).jpeg
Screenshot_20231101-194514 (resized).png
IMG_3632 (resized).jpeg
IMG_3612 (resized).jpeg
kemet_ceramic_capacitor_part_numbers.jpg
IMG_2431 (resized).jpg
IMG_6396.jpeg
IMG_3386 (resized).jpeg
IMG_3388 (resized).jpeg

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider sealclubber.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#120 8 years ago

I am a proud member of the Andromeda strain. I have it all cleaned up but am waiting on parts to service the boards. The MPU had no corrosion that I could see and the connectors all look nice and shiny. I will probably replace them anyway. I only have one broken plastic (batwolf) and the playfield has no wear. It does have those micro cracks all over it so I need to get it cleared before it starts chipping. I want to get it working before I tear it apart though. Cab is solid with minor scuffs. It came without a BG but I was able to get a nice one for it from a fellow Pinsider but my displays are all about 1/4" too low, but the panel is in the correct location. It is a 3/16" backglass and the guy I bought it from said his other one is only 1/8". So maybe this one is a proto and the windows are in a slightly different spot?
I uploaded the Parts manual to IPDB since it was missing.

So question, Does your Andromeda have a 1/8" or 3/16" thick backglass?

#123 8 years ago

What size connectors do they take for the backbox to playfield connectors? I have .093 connectors and they won't fit inside the housings. Yeah I could buy all new connectors but why replace perfectly good housings?

Nevermind. I see there is a .084 sized connectors which I am assuming these are. Guess I will be placing another order.

1 year later
#163 6 years ago

I used early Stern parts for my Andromeda and SharpShooterII. No issues. I am pretty sure they are the pre-1980 CCM/Stern parts which has the base sit flush with the playfield. This means you need the shorter bushing and flipper shaft. But if you buy all new mechs then it doesn't matter.

I scanned and made my own drop target decals for my SS2. They don't look bad. I will email the file to whomever wants it. I just printed them on sticker paper. Copied and pasted so I had an entire sheet of them. When they eventually wear out just rip off the old ones and slap on the new ones.

#164 6 years ago

Pinpilot, those plastics look to be real nice. It would be great to get a set of protectors made for Andromeda. Would you be willing to scan (600dpi) the bottom side of the plastics and send me the scans so I can get them made?

#167 6 years ago

They are the older flush stern style. Coils were stock and say 21-50008b
If you are going to buy new mechs. I would do the Williams conversion.

#169 6 years ago

Pinwiki mentions the WPC flipper assemblies. But you keep the GP coil. I think it is the same mod for replacing old Stern flipper mechs with WPC.

Coil: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/21-50008 link was from pinwiki.

#170 6 years ago

Here is my SharpShooter II drop target decal artwork if anyone wants to use it. I copied and pasted it a bunch of times into powerpoint and printed them onto label paper. Then cut them to size with my wife's scrapbook slicer. One sheet of paper made me probably a lifetime of stickers. I would print in low quality greyscale until you get them sized right. I don't remember the settings. I would also print them out on a Laser Printer if I were to do it again.

SS2 Drop (resized).jpgSS2 Drop (resized).jpg

#173 6 years ago

That would be great. How is your bat wolf plastic. Mine is broken I am trying to get a scan of a good one so I can have something made.

#175 6 years ago

It is awesome your plastics are in such good shape.

For the protectors, I just need the bottoms (not the artwork side) scanned so that there is space around them. Not up against the side of the scanner please. This is so the maker can see the exact edges. Plus I need to tell him where the protector should be flush and where it needs the overlap. 600dpi is best. I did my Apocalypse Now plastics on my scanner at work. There can be more than one plastic scanned at a time as long as there is space around them.
I also give the measurements (L&W) of each plastic so he knows if the copier shrunk any scans. Since I have the game, I can give the measurements.

For the Batwolf, a nice 600dpi scan of the top should work. I think it was SPFXTED who had a friend able to print stuff on plastic with a good scan. I just could never get a good scan. I am not sure of the results but it will be better than I have now.

#176 6 years ago

The problem with the GP drops (besides cost) is they are brittle. I have a set but they are not installed. I let the DE drops take the punishment. On SS, Andromeda and the other clones, the drops are sooo close to the flippers and take a beating.

#179 6 years ago

I used the red Rit dye for synthetics. It comes out a flat red but it is better than white.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/value-of-non-working-andromeda-without-backglass#post-2585945

Here's a pic of the dye'd red DE drops with the stickers I made for SS2.
Middle (resized).JPGMiddle (resized).JPG
Here is a pic with the dye'd red DE drops in my Andromeda. These stickers are the ones sold on ebay.
Andromeda Playfield (resized).JPGAndromeda Playfield (resized).JPG

#183 6 years ago

The ebay stickers work fine so far.
My tombstone is fine so I haven't looked hard for a sub but I haven't accidentally found one either. It is similar to the Allied Leisure drops which has me concerned. Those are very brittle. IMO, don't mess with it unless you absolutely have to, and then be very gentle. A sticker won't work on the single drop as there is not enough clearance.

#188 6 years ago

If you find an led which will work in the inserts let me know. The lamp and solenoid theory are the same as bally sterns. So adding a resistor should work. I just don't want to do all those lamps.

2 weeks later
#193 6 years ago

My Andromeda does not. I don't think my SS2 had them either but my pics of that area aren't the best.

1 month later
#204 6 years ago

Did a search in facebook and don't see it.

7 months later
#235 5 years ago

Sesh. I am having the same problem with my andromeda with the same cpu board. Haven’t figured it out yet.

4 weeks later
#251 5 years ago

Have you tried physically cleaning the socket?

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 40.00
Lighting - Interactive
Professor Pinball
Interactive
$ 129.99
Boards
PinballReplacementParts
Boards
$ 98.99
Boards
PinballReplacementParts
Boards
From: $ 30.00
Cabinet Parts
Rocket City Pinball
Cabinet parts
$ 16.50
Magazines/books
Pinball Magazine
Magazines/books
$ 12.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
UpKick Pinball
Toys/Add-ons
From: $ 2.25
Playfield - Other
Bob's Pinball Stuff
Other
$ 19.98
Hardware
Gameroom Mods
Hardware
$ 12.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
UpKick Pinball
Toys/Add-ons

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider sealclubber.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/game-plan-owners-club-sharpshooters-welcome?tu=sealclubber and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.