Quoted from Asterix:Do you have a link for these replacement Game Plan MPU, I can't find them...
Follow the development here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/early-announcement-of-a-game-plan-mpu-redesign
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Quoted from Asterix:Do you have a link for these replacement Game Plan MPU, I can't find them...
Follow the development here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/early-announcement-of-a-game-plan-mpu-redesign
Quoted from FtrMech:which driver/transistor do I need to be looking at?
The schematic says it's transistor Q10 on the SDU board.
Make sure to check/replace the diode on the coil and the wiring orientation on it, it sounds like it might be damaging the Q10 transistor on the SDU.
The yellow-black wire on the coil should be on the lug that the banded side of the diode is.
Quoted from FtrMech:I appreciate your assistance...
No worries,
The playfield schematics show the driver transistors for the coils (and driver SCRs for the feature lamps).
The Andromeda schematics on IPDB are missing the SDU but presuming it's the same as Sharp Shooter II, the circuit design is basically a copy of Ballys solenoid driver board. Let us know if you need further help diagnosing the drive circuit at the SDU.
Quoted from FtrMech:I have this one...
What a blessing it is to have original clear schematics. Feels like the online Gameplan schematics were mostly scanned in low quality split pages 25 years ago.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Finally was able to get my Sharpshooter setup.
Looks in pretty good condition!
Quoted from Robotworkshop:From what I can see it looks like GamePlan put the diodes in backwards compared to everyone else when you look at how they are connected to the strobe lines.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:I've done a bunch of work on Williams, Bally, Stern, Gottlieb, Data East, etc.
Umm, Gottlieb and Williams are also active low strobes aren't they?
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Is anyone familiar with the way the 7-Digit displays are driven on the later Gameplan machines?
I just had a quick look at the Cyclops schematics.
It says digit 6 (the 7th digit) comes from MPU J4 pin 9 and goes to the display connectors on pin 8.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:I wonder if those schematics are correct of if the later MPU-2 boards were modified with a jumper on the back of the board to pin 9 on J4
Hmm, to add to the confusion both MPU-I and MPU-II schematics (bottom right) show digit 6 (7th digit) is on MPU connector J3 pin 18.
The wiring diagram of the display cable is where it says MPU J4 pin 9
I don't see J4 pins 7 - 9 mentioned on the MPU board schematic.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Maybe someone with a Sharpshooter II can post reference photos of the back of the MPU to confirm.
Quoted from MrBigg:There are two chips that als9 connect to these, a 4514 I believe, could those be the culprits? U1 and U2?
Speaking from a Bally/Stern point of view which this lamp driver board is a rip-off of, I've never seen a 4514 chip fail with one or two non-functioning outputs. Suspect the SCRs/connectors first.
Quoted from MrBigg:As stated above, I individually fired each bulb from the connectors with 6.3 volts to check bulbs, sockets, ground, etc, and all came on.
Have you manually tried activating the lights by grounding the anode leg of the related SCRs?
Quoted from Robotworkshop:The sound is totally different between Sharpshooter I and II.
The output amplifier stage is the same between them, obviously the impedance of the circuit before it is different and the volume trimmer being local on SS1 eliminates that volume control cable carrying pre-amplified audio becoming an antenna to noise that SS2 does.
If I owned the game I'd consider making a sound board J2 interface board that implemented classic Sterns volume attenuator design with a MC3340. Then again once I set the volume on my games I pretty much never adjust them again so moving the volume pot into the head isn't a big deal for me.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:I put a 50K audio trimmer in the head on short wires about 2.5” from the board. All the annoying hum is gone. Really happy with how it sounds now.
Excellent, great to hear!
Quoted from PicklePerfect:What type of fuse should I use for the playfield fuse?
So, is it a 5V fast blow or is it a 10V fast blow?
Neither. The manual says the playfield solenoid fuse is a 3 amp slow blow.
Quoted from PicklePerfect:Is that wavy S a standard notation for fuses, so I know what to look for next time?
Yes, that wavy 'S' indicates a fuse. If it has 'SB' next to it that indicates a slow blow fuse. Fast blow fuses are not marked i.e. no marking implies fast blow.
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