Been a member of the Game Plan club for a few years now. Originally I had a Foxy Lady cocktail about 8 years ago and had that up and running. I didn't find it very fun to play at all so off it went as quick as it came.

A few years went by and I picked up an Old Coney Island in the parking lot of a Chicagoland Show. It was pretty tricky to figure out why I had a row of switches out. It ended up being one of the diodes that is also associated with the dip switch bank. There is one associated with each row of switches. So, after I tried replacing several different chips on the solenoid board, someone was very helpful with that tip and it's been up and running since.

I picked up a Sharp Shooter II in 2015 and bought an Echo Lake mpu right away since the mpu had battery corrosion. I actually just got into setting this thing up and putting the board in it this past week or so. There have been a few struggles along the way, but both the sound board and mpu now boot fully and the game can be played. The last issue it seems is with the displays. If any of the displays are plugged in, it causes the sound or mpu boards to not fully boot, or the game to do random things and lock up at points.

If anyone has any info on possible causes for this please let me know.

I know I need to give Jim a call and see if he has any suggestions as well. I'm typically not around the game when he would be available though, so, in due time I suppose!

I’ve tested the voltage at the diaplays previously and it is good at all 5 displays. Figured id try one of my old coney island displays in the sharpcshooter II last night since all it would do is just not display the 7th digit since oci is 6 digit displays. That just verified that the mpu is putting out proper information to all displays now. Narrowing it down to the displays them selves. Wonder what happened that all of the displays would need board work. I should be able to test out the transistors and 3 chips on each display to figure out what needs replacing on each one now that i know the mpu is putting out good info to them all.

I finished up Sharp Shooter II this afternoon and got some solid game playing time in!

First the display issues: With them all pulled out I tested the transistors on all 5 display boards and they all tested good. Moved on to the 74LS379's and compared some readings to the working Old Coney Island displays and they were different, so I gave it a shot and replaced the 74LS379 on one of them and everything was working perfect in game and test mode. I ended up replacing that same chip on all 5 displays (adding a socket obviously) to fix all 5 of the faulty displays. I've got no idea what happened to this thing before I had it that would have taken out that chip on all 5 displays, but its all good now!

Here is the break down on the display issues in case someone has something similar happening:

Player 1 display - all digits out and shows nothing, replaced 74LS379
Player 2 display - all digits out and caused mpu to not boot fully, replaced 74LS379
Player 3 display - only showed 1's on all digits all the time, replaced 74LS379
Player 4 display - only showed 4's on all digits all the time, replaced 74LS379
ball/credit display - only showed 0's on all digits all the time, replaced 74LS379

After installing a new ball, rubbers, lights, doing some switch cleaning and adjustments, and cleaning up the drop target bank so it resets properly, we are good to go!

Another project done..... on to the next.

For the sound issue I would check the connectors. Those connector pins can get easily corroded. I had an issue with my Old Coney Island where at power up it was a loud hum and distorted sound, but as the game played it would seem to "warm up". After cleaning connectors on the sound board I checked the proper connector in the harness and sure enough, if you wiggled it the distortion would come back right away. I swapped out every pin in that connector as they had some corrosion on them and now it's been solid ever since.

If all of your switches that don't work are in the same row/column it may end up being one of the diodes that is also associated with a dip switch. I had this issue with my Old Coney Island as well. Changed a little diode and they all worked again. Someone here on the forum helped out with that. You'd probably need the schematics to figure out if they were all linked together.

just slip it on the plastic supports like all of the others. I put one in a Sharpshooter II about a year ago and it works great! I'm glad these are available now and then.

Listed my Coney Island for sale yesterday if anyone is interested. https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/103782