New to the club. First Game Plan machine for me. It’s a Sharp Shooter. Question - she’s not booting up. The fuse under the playfield blows immediately. Seems all coils fire at once and then the fuse blows. Not getting any flashes on the mpu Any tips or ideas to look for ?

Thanks. Just pulled each connector on the mpu and no change. Pulled J3 on the SDB and it does stop the fuse blowing (I have a circuit breaker set up with gator clips to save on the fuses while I trouble shoot) but still no flashes - but does that help me identify the fuse blowing issue? And could that issue cause it to still not boot up? (Not getting a flicker)

Oh wait. I pulled one at a time. Should I try putting one at a time on then adding another? And is this on the mpu ? Sorry for all the questions

And I am getting gi and back box lights / flashers. No displays what so ever

Some screeching sounds (almost as bad as a Nugent I had previously until a friend rebuilt the sound board). So it too may have issues. Ugh

Looks like someone has already replaced the connectors and removed the battery (and some previous corrosion).
Possible a chip on the driver board causing all coils to fire at once? Pops, target bank, etc? Thinking what ever issue that is - is also causing it not to boot up? Could be separate issues tho?

Thank you! I’ll check those this evening and report back in my findings

Ok, first - that link has amazing info! Had similar to the Bally/Williams, so this was a big, big help- Thank you!

Second - readings on the Power supply is as follows:
TP1- 12.82 (good)
TP2 - 4.94 (good)
TP3- 6.37 (good)
TP4- 4.95 (bad?? Should read 24V shouldn't it? (from what I can understand anyhow..lol, remember I'm still a "newbie" I did check the fuse, still nuttin above 4.95 -

So - from the link above, since the MPU is not receiving the 24v, that could be causing it not to boot (so now I need to find the issue with the power supply??)

But, in reading the link, on the MPU - the reset circuit may also be an issue (it reads if this is not working, it will not boot) - and although someone did replace the rechargeable battery and did some corrosion cleanup, it looks like it did migrate into the bottom left corner (reset circuit area) - so this could also be an issue.

When the game is powered on, and the J3 connector is disconnected from the SDB and although the MPU isn't "booting up" - I can just touch the J3 connector - and the coils all fire at once (pop bumpers, bonus hole, target bank) - so from further reading, I could have issues also on the SDB...ugh

1) I do not have a service manual for this one (I'll recheck the link above to see if there is one to download)
2) How do I check the Bridge Rectifier? I see the middle one for the 24v, but do not know how to check it?

damn this day job! I want to go home and check all of this now! lol So appreciative of the help here. I'll report back...after work! ha!

Well, now everyone will know how much of a newbie I am butttt - thought checking the bridge rectifier would be easy - especially with your step by step instructions. NO! lol How do I tell which of the 4 terminals are the negative, positive or the other 2 AC terminals?

I tried each of the 4, every which way to Sunday - and I'm not seeing .4 to .6 volts. Buttt- I could have my meter set wrong. (Another clue that I'm clueless!)

For the "Put the meter in diode setting" - are you referring to adjusting the read out to the lower levels (as in "range")? Or is there an actual "diode mode or setting"? And yes, I bought the "self adjusting" meter - thinking it would make my life easier. see attached photo of the meter (it's not a Fluke!)

I'll try the other items this evening, just to see what I may come up with.

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And while I'm here - does anyone have a list of the rubbers needed for a Sharp Shooter? Sizes, qty's?

Thank you for the patience. Learned something today. Perfect. Actually tried that last night but wasn’t sure so quit. Armed with that info and per attached photo I get the following :

With the black lead on the upper left corner (thinking as it’s diff orientation maybe it’s the + ?)
Bottom left - .475
Bottom right - .393
Top right - .475

With the black lead on the upper right (just in case I’m backwards)
Bottom left - .0000
Bottom right - .47
Top left - .778

So by these I take it the item is bad?

And again - thanks for the info! If I’m not learning I’m dying !

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Thanks guys! I'll get the rubbers on order now. I stripped the playfield over the weekend and started cleaning her inside & out, so will need those soon.

On actually getting her to work again :
All boards out and sent to a friend who does repairs. (I'm not up to that level yet, but trying) But he'll trouble shoot/bullet proof those.

Power supply - I did receive the Bridge Rectifier and installed (Simple things I can do! lol) - but I'm still seeing just 4.95V on TP4 (If it's actually right between the 2 connectors) I do see 29v at the small blob of solder right above the label for TP4 in the attached photo - so not sure I'm even testing at the correct location? You can see in the photo attached small scratched points where I was placing my lead. The paper label (previous owner?) looks to cover some and the link above was a little fuzzy on actual TP4 location. Is it really right between those two connectors, or just above and possible the "blob of solder" - and with the 29v I am now getting the correct readings?

If not, something else is wrong here.

Another note- if this 24v is for the actual solenoids, the coils all fire and stay on when I place the J3 pin on the SDB, so it looked like they were getting the 24v somehow? (Fuse keeps blowing to) - but possibly not sending the 24v to the MPU for proper boot up?

I was hoping I'd replace the bridge rectifier, get all TP's accurate readings, clean her up and be ready to throw the boards back in when finished and I'd have a working machine here..ugh So not sure the Power Supply is working correctly.

"I also didn't see if you tested the ac voltage at the bridge. Did you have ~28 vac across the ac input to the bridge?" = can you elaborate on that a bit, so I'll know what / how to test? Appreciate the info! (Greatly!!)

Thanks!

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Ok upon closer view of the third photo in section2a - TP4 is the “blob” I referred to in my photo earlier. The written section states “test point is located between the two connectors on the left side” hence my dumbass thinking the farthest two on left edge. But the photo shows between the upper “edge” connector and the next one in to the right.

So now that I have the right TP4 location - I’m reading 28.8. (Looks to be in acceptable range)

Now that I have the correct voltages at all TP’s , i’ll Quit hi-jacking this topic.

I’ll report back Once boards are back and installed. Hoping if nothing else a newbie can learn from my lessons

And so much thanks to the help here ! Amazing. Again. Seen other posts about jackasses here on PS in general (and have read some - ignore those ) but the help is truly amazing. Met some great friends thru here as well!

All boards back in and she’s now booting up and and I’m getting all score displays, sounds, switches all seem to work on the playfield, etc- but the same coils are still full on when the game starts until the fuse under the playfield blows (pop bumpers, kicker, bonus hole, out hole). The transistors have been checked. Happens when I even unplug the cables from the MPU to the SDB. So thinking chip U1 on the SDB? Anyone else have similar issue?

Yes all fire at once. As soon as the connector makes contact. The board was only checked as far as the transistors. He couldn’t check the board overall at the time Seeing they fire even without the MPU connected and the T’s checked out on the SDB we're thinking that one chip (only common denominator to effect all). Will report back once checked out and hopefully working

Oh it’s “the wiz”. He’s been more than a mentor here in this hobby! Without the help here I’d be lost. But learning !!

Thought I'd give an update on the Sharp Shooter. "The Wiz" got me a rebuilt SDB (sending him mine) but the replacement board had the same issues, so it was the 74154 "U1" chip as noted previously. (And he found a bad cap as well) - so this thing is finally working and playing like she should.

I do have a small issue/question - sometimes, not all the time, the ball will not register when draining and not kick out. Sometimes this happens on Ball 3, sometimes on ball 4 and then again sometimes on ball 5. Most times I can get the full game, 5 balls. It's so intermittent?? I've replaced the diode on the switch, adjusted the switch, re-soldered the wires to the switch, ran thru the diagnostics and the coil fires each time during the tests. When it does happen, I can power off/on and she takes off like she should and get the 5 balls again.

Anyone else have a similar issue? Any ideas to chase down? Any & all help/tips are appreciated!

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"frunch" and "slgerber" - thanks for the support while getting this one going. Amazing help here on Pinside, great peeps!

will do! Thanks!

During coil test the kickout hole fires the ball out.each time When activating the test button again it shows number 240. I take it this is switch 240 for the kickout. The swtich is open until the ball closes it. What am I missing here?

Well one problem solved another pops up. Again this is on a Sharp Shooter. And the bonus hole. When points are lit up - it kicks out. When no points (or bonus lights) are lit - it keeps the ball and doesn’t kick out

I’ve looked at the switch to make sure it’s working correctly. Seems to be???

Is there something else that could be causing this issue ? Possibly something that ties no lights / bonus available - it doesn’t register for some reason?

Nope, this time it's the "bonus" hole towards the top (around the loop area??) I think adjusting the switch on the outhole has fixed that issue (bent the more rigid blade in the middle seems to have resolved that issue)

So when there are the lights lit up - for say 2x, 3x, 5x - it will kick the ball out. If not bonus lights are lit, it will not kick the ball out Although I've seen this intermittent, it seems like if no lights are lit, it keeps it???

Reading other posts, I'll check the switches on all of the rollovers in the loop, perhaps that could be an issue?

I have not replaced the connectors, although it looks like someone had done so before I got the game (they're numbered now, and even colored coded)

Thank you sir! Will be tearing back into her tonight. I'll keep you posted (so others may learn from my issues..lol)

These seem to light up / register - but when no bonus lights (are these from the roll overs?) that’s then the ball stays in the bonus hole and it doesn’t kick out

It is somewhat “intermittent “. So perhaps the thorough cleaning will do.

Didn’t have time last evening but jumping in it later today. Will post back

Again - this help is so appreciated !

If I only had a crisp $100 bill!

Another update. Cleaned and adjusted the two switches. Both the Outhole and the Bonus. All played well (manually rolling the ball hard and soft into the bonus hole). And sure enough both are still acting up.

Bonus hole - not kicking out all the time. Periodically. But bothersome. With or without lights lit for points (although it does chime and award point each time. I can roll it in and out. Points award. No kick out )

Outhole - again periodically but say every third game. Ball 3 or 4. It won’t register the ball drain or kickout the ball. Ugh

I’ve attached photos of both areas. Diode bad? SDB issues ?

I’ve unplugged each connector and tried to be sure each wire was connecting (head to playfield ). As well as those on the boards.

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If either quits working. I can power off and back on and then each kicks out as they should. Even if the ball is still in the bonus hole

Just ran thru a complete game. Rolled ball in bonus no issue. Full 5 balls. Next game - ball won’t register drain on ball 2.

Turn off and she’s playing again. Weird

I have not. Tried pushing in each wire on the connector (traced the one from the outhole to the connector to the mpu j5. ). But could still be the issue.

Now that I’ve gotten a lot closer with the connectors between head and cab - these have been coded but I think their still orig

Oily like they’ve been covered with something. Ugh.

So may need to start replacing connectors here

Guessing the same for now. I took apart each of the connectors (several. Lol). Cleaned inside the male area but inside the other is probably where I’m having issues no doubt. Can’t clean there. Didn’t see a lot of the green goo seemed but they were all pretty “oily”(?)

circling back here on my issues, think I need to re-pin the larger connectors between the head and cab , or replace the end connectors altogether for J5 & J6 to the mpu?

If these are std pins, I can (I think) re-pin the larger connectors between the head and cab. If it's the smaller connectors for the mpu (J5 & J6), where can I find those connectors and pins? (They look a lot smaller)

Been on a few other ones, but jumping back on this one this week. Yes, I've only crimped the .156 pins in my Williams, so def need some help here on pins, sizes, the connectors, etc - I don't even know if my crimper will do the trick as this look a little larger. But re-pinning may be the fix?

I set the game on one player, went thru all 5 balls. Worked great, no issues. Set it to 2 players, got to ball 3 - then it drained and just stayed there..its just so intermittent.

I even broke the machine down, moved it, cleaned the housings again as much as I could (no green goo oozing any where) - thought I had it when I played that first game, then the 2nd game as stated above...ugh... frustrating to say the least.

I think the bonus hole is doing the same thing...every now & then, just holding the ball, no kick out.

All else is fine.

Is there a certain connector for either/ both of these...so try to lessen the connectors/pins work?

Could there be anything on a board to cause such similar issues?

NO, some of my o0ther games have the testing switch, which does make it easier. I didn't even see that was available on this one, but it's been a little while. (Is this the one with the one small red type of button?)

I'll get the manual back out today, review it and see if I can start there...maybe that's an issue causing this???

Games like my T2 had a bank of switches, you can go up & down in the various test modes...so again if my memory is correct, this one had one small button, so I'll try to re-familiarize my self with it and see...thanks again! Really appreciate any help at this point!

Yes, found the manual and it's as I remembered...I'll check that first this evening!

If I remember correctly (and I can probably scroll up a bit) but when I did this the last time it came up with just the outhole switch showing as closed (I think the ball was in there and it was in game over mode)

Looking at the manual, I should take the ball out, then run the diagnostics. I so hope it's stuck switch somewhere.lol

Went thru the diagnostics and at first it came up as switch 260. (Which according to the manual was the diagnostic and accounting switch. lol. ). So unplugged the coin door and then plugged it back in. All zeros now when I get to that point again in the diagnostics

When it goes thru the coil diagnostic eAch one - bonus hole and outhole kicker fire as intended on demand

When I get back to the switch mode I can barely touch the wires to close those two switches and they register closed. As expected.

Just as an extra clue to the issue. If the ball sticks in the bonus hole or drains and doesn’t go to the next ball - powering off and back on, they pop out as they should.

And if the ball gets stuck in the bonus hole - if I manually push down the outhole switch - it doesn’t register either.

It’s like they’re in tandem ? When one works the other works. When one doesn’t the other doesn’t. Ugh!!!!

Running the diagnostics on the coils each and every time each Of these fire as called for.

On the switch test - each time I barely touch them they register as their supposed to.

So it looks like they both are making the right connections.

When it stopped on ball 3 again, I removed the ball and went into switch mode - of course it goes past coil test first (pressing 11 times) and once more on the test button I put the ball back in and it shows that swtich closed. Take the ball out it shows open.

I did notice this time the ball drained and didn’t register I placed the ball in the bonus hole and it did pop back out as it should. (Last time it didn’t - so don’t know if related)

Tracing the wires back to the head to cab connector (mine is labeled #3) they both share the same connector (actually wires right next to each other.)

Same as in J5. Mine are violet /white and red/white. From the switches to the first connectors then on to the mpu if I traced correctly.

Just trying to throw all the info I’m seeing
Don’t know if it helps any.

Last update for the night (granddaughters are asleep ). And this machine makes too much noise even with the sound board disconnected.

So it may not have fixed the issue but messing around with different ideas I switched the dip switch to go from 5 balls to 3. Played thru 4 straight games. No issue. Switched it back to 5 balls and played 3 games. No issues.

I’ll keep testing tomorrow morning before work. Just wondered if this could have been an issue - dirty dip switch? Idk??

Ran it thru 4 games this morning, set on 5 balls. I placed the ball into the bonus hole manually on each ball, played all 4 games, no issues.

It could be it's just intermittently working right now, and when I get home after work the thing will start acting up once again, but at least it's gone thru about a dozen games now, so maybe that was it??

I'll run through another dozen games this evening and report back...

Went home at lunch, went thru 4 games, no issues, all 5 balls played and I placed each one into the bonus hole, always kicked out.

Then on the 5th game, the ball got stuck in the bonus hole. I manually got it out, let it drain and of course it will not advance to the next ball...ugh

Turned the game off and back on, went thru 2 straight games again, all 5 balls, no issues.

I thought I had this one pegged to the DIP switch, but with this still occurring, I'd say I still have the same problem (maybe just less infrequent now).

Maybe if I just keep it in 3 ball option? I'll try that this evening.....

I replaced the caps on the two switches that were having issues (Bonus and Outhole) but not the roll-over buttons...I'll check those this evening. Had similar issues with switch caps on my Mata Hari, after replacing them all (Thought I was on a snipe hunt!) I still had to cut one leg on one of them as it kept causing a pop bumper to fire...after that the ghosts in the machine stopped, so good call on it being something weird like that!

Another thing to chase, but I appreciate it!

I'm thinking it is more on the DIP switches yes. I've moved it back to 3 balls (from 5) and it seems to work fine. Switch it back to 5 balls and I get about 10 games in and it does it again. Someone had replaced the green capacitors with "1N4007" diodes. (Does that sound correct?)