Have you familiarised yourself with the switch test? Next time the game acts up like that, reset the drop targets, and put the game into switch test. You don't want any switches closed on the playfield except the outhole switch. Do any switches come up on the displays? Each switch has a number assigned, i think each switch has a different 3-digit number.

NO, some of my o0ther games have the testing switch, which does make it easier. I didn't even see that was available on this one, but it's been a little while. (Is this the one with the one small red type of button?)

I'll get the manual back out today, review it and see if I can start there...maybe that's an issue causing this???

Games like my T2 had a bank of switches, you can go up & down in the various test modes...so again if my memory is correct, this one had one small button, so I'll try to re-familiarize my self with it and see...thanks again! Really appreciate any help at this point!

Yes, found the manual and it's as I remembered...I'll check that first this evening!

Here's a pic of the red test button on the coin door on my sharpshooter:

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If I remember correctly (and I can probably scroll up a bit) but when I did this the last time it came up with just the outhole switch showing as closed (I think the ball was in there and it was in game over mode)

Looking at the manual, I should take the ball out, then run the diagnostics. I so hope it's stuck switch somewhere.lol

Went thru the diagnostics and at first it came up as switch 260. (Which according to the manual was the diagnostic and accounting switch. lol. ). So unplugged the coin door and then plugged it back in. All zeros now when I get to that point again in the diagnostics

When it goes thru the coil diagnostic eAch one - bonus hole and outhole kicker fire as intended on demand

When I get back to the switch mode I can barely touch the wires to close those two switches and they register closed. As expected.

Just as an extra clue to the issue. If the ball sticks in the bonus hole or drains and doesn’t go to the next ball - powering off and back on, they pop out as they should.

And if the ball gets stuck in the bonus hole - if I manually push down the outhole switch - it doesn’t register either.

It’s like they’re in tandem ? When one works the other works. When one doesn’t the other doesn’t. Ugh!!!!

Running the diagnostics on the coils each and every time each Of these fire as called for.

On the switch test - each time I barely touch them they register as their supposed to.

So it looks like they both are making the right connections.

When it stopped on ball 3 again, I removed the ball and went into switch mode - of course it goes past coil test first (pressing 11 times) and once more on the test button I put the ball back in and it shows that swtich closed. Take the ball out it shows open.

I did notice this time the ball drained and didn’t register I placed the ball in the bonus hole and it did pop back out as it should. (Last time it didn’t - so don’t know if related)

Tracing the wires back to the head to cab connector (mine is labeled #3) they both share the same connector (actually wires right next to each other.)

Same as in J5. Mine are violet /white and red/white. From the switches to the first connectors then on to the mpu if I traced correctly.

Just trying to throw all the info I’m seeing
Don’t know if it helps any.

Last update for the night (granddaughters are asleep ). And this machine makes too much noise even with the sound board disconnected.

So it may not have fixed the issue but messing around with different ideas I switched the dip switch to go from 5 balls to 3. Played thru 4 straight games. No issue. Switched it back to 5 balls and played 3 games. No issues.

I’ll keep testing tomorrow morning before work. Just wondered if this could have been an issue - dirty dip switch? Idk??

I have run into issues with dirty dip switches on occasion, definitely a possibility. Hopefully you found the solution, keep us posted!

Ran it thru 4 games this morning, set on 5 balls. I placed the ball into the bonus hole manually on each ball, played all 4 games, no issues.

It could be it's just intermittently working right now, and when I get home after work the thing will start acting up once again, but at least it's gone thru about a dozen games now, so maybe that was it??

I'll run through another dozen games this evening and report back...

Went home at lunch, went thru 4 games, no issues, all 5 balls played and I placed each one into the bonus hole, always kicked out.

Then on the 5th game, the ball got stuck in the bonus hole. I manually got it out, let it drain and of course it will not advance to the next ball...ugh

Turned the game off and back on, went thru 2 straight games again, all 5 balls, no issues.

I thought I had this one pegged to the DIP switch, but with this still occurring, I'd say I still have the same problem (maybe just less infrequent now).

Maybe if I just keep it in 3 ball option? I'll try that this evening.....

Man, that's a weird one. Only thing i can really think to suggest is putting the game in switch test when the problem occurs again, reset the drops and see which (if any switches it detects). Have you replaced the capacitors on any of the switches that use them? I think the rollover buttons use them, but i can't remember...i only ask because faulty switch caps can cause weird issues for the switch matrix.

Also, you could replace the dip switches if the problem still seems connected to it. Again if the backbox-to-playfield connectors haven't been replaced, it's still possible they could be the source of the problem.

I replaced the caps on the two switches that were having issues (Bonus and Outhole) but not the roll-over buttons...I'll check those this evening. Had similar issues with switch caps on my Mata Hari, after replacing them all (Thought I was on a snipe hunt!) I still had to cut one leg on one of them as it kept causing a pop bumper to fire...after that the ghosts in the machine stopped, so good call on it being something weird like that!

Another thing to chase, but I appreciate it!

For those of you who own Andromeda machines, there is a Apron Card topic on the Forum, I requested cards for Andromeda and the OP just recently created them and posted them...they look awesome so check them out.

I had issues with my dip switches. I got replacements but never changed them. I think they were starting to deteriorate if I remember correctly. Have you replaced all the crappy green capacitors yet? Not sure if that would cause you your problems like that though. Maybe intermittent issues with the dip.

I'm thinking it is more on the DIP switches yes. I've moved it back to 3 balls (from 5) and it seems to work fine. Switch it back to 5 balls and I get about 10 games in and it does it again. Someone had replaced the green capacitors with "1N4007" diodes. (Does that sound correct?)

Looking to buy an Andromeda if anyone in this group could part with one. Any leads greatly appreciated !! Thanks

I have a Game Plan Old Coney Island! that I have replaced the power board (PSU-1) with one from Gulf Pinball, who seems to be making a lot of replacement boards lately. Anyway, I also have an original power board (both are all installed to a transformer), and I've noticed some differences between them. The transformer assemblies were taken from 2 different machines (obviously), and thus it could be that they had different pin wiring - IOW, the board that is the "original one" might or might not be the one that was actually installed in the current cabinet. (The other cabinet is not available for inspection.)

[1] The Gulf Pinball board has the 680Ω resistor as dead (i.e., only one side is connected to anything, with the other side free), while the original board has this free side connected to ground. There is also a wire connect hole at this free side, but the directions that came with the board don't direct for any line to be connected there. And looking at the schematic that I have found online, this resistor doesn't even seem to exist.

[2] The Gulf Pinball board has the J5 connector (15-pin) key location as upside down relative to the original board - i.e., the key for the original board has the key at pin position #11 from the top while the Gulf Pinball board has the key as position 5 from the top, which corresponds to being pin position #11 from the bottom). However, the leads all match if referenced to the vertical positioning, and the actual cabinet wiring matches the original board (i.e., the leads relative to the key are the same for the original board and cabinet harness) - and this all matches the schematic. Thus, it would appear that the Gulf Pinball board has been done wrong. Indeed, the marking on the Gulf Pinball board shows the key as being position #5 from the top (there is no marking as to what is index 1), which matches where the key is. It seems to be as though the design for the Gulf Pinball board is such that it has been decided to make the key #5 instead of #11 (i.e, using the vertical positioning as the reference).

[3] There is also a difference in the wiring such that on the schematic & original board have the node (call it NODE A) from the 6.3V fuse (opposite the line from the transformer) going to pin position #2-4 and the ground going to pin position #6-8 - while the Gulf Pinball board has NODE A going to pin position #6-8.

So my first question is to anyone that has used this board, and has figured out what the deal is. The second question is what is the E-mail address of Gulf, as I would like to ask them about it.

The solution for [1] could be as easy as simply adding a jumper, with this extra jumper being part of the design. Perhaps it is not needed.

However, the solution for [2] - if it is to be such that either transformer assembly could be used as "plug & play" - is not apparent, although as the schematic & original board have pin position #5 as dead, and the cabinet has pin position #10 as dead, pins #5 & #10 could be clipped for it to fit.

The solution for [3] could only be that it makes no difference.

In general, I could buy the idea that [1] & [3] are valid designs, but I can't figure out how [2] is not a design error. Surely, there must be someone here who has used this replacement board.

Now a question about the remanufactured board from Echo Lake Pinball. I notice that this board has metal holes for the supports. Is it supposed to be screwed in somehow so that there is a ground to the backbox metal sheet? Or it is supposed to be floated on plastic supports like all of the other boards?

just slip it on the plastic supports like all of the others. I put one in a Sharpshooter II about a year ago and it works great! I'm glad these are available now and then.

Hi guys, my Sharpshooter has a backglass beyond repair. Would anyone have a scan of the backglass and would be willing to share it with me. to enable me to make a print to fit into my game?

Cheers
/Micael

I have a question about the front door lock for a regular-size Game Plan pin (Old Coney Island!). A standard lock cam does not reach the cabinet, and only impinges on the coin door metal frame. I don't see any screw holes on the cabinet near there, so there doesn't seem to be any bracket that I am missing. I would find it hard to believe that it is supposed to be metal on metal - and in any case, the cam is off from the cabinet by about 1/8" (presuming the standard 7/8" lock barrel). It's almost as if there should be a rubber sleeve of this internal thickness that is put onto the cam. What do the Game Plan owners here see on their own rig?

I am in the middle of an Andromeda restoration, looking at what I had to work with it appears that the lock barrel was shorter than normal and of a smaller diameter. Looking inside the cabinet, it doesn't appear that there was any form of striker plate...I am thinking that the lock arm simply engaged inside the coin door frame on the cabinet...metal on wood. Sorry, since my machine was incomplete when acquired and this is the only Game Plan game I own I cannot say definitively...Perhaps someone can fill in the blanks or provide more info. Good luck.
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Are these standups available anywhere? A game I was looking at looked odd... Turns out nearly all these red standups had broken off! It's just bare metal leaf switches!
Hoping to join this club very soon...

We have a couple of used, red, rectangular stationary targets for Sharpshooter. I think we have 2, and they're not that badly worn from recollection. $8 ea. Send me a PM if you need any.

Hey Powdevil and everybody, scanned and updated the graphic on the Sharpshoter into a printable decal. I successfully printed these on clear Avery label paper then attached them to Data East drop target replacements. The only thing I didn't do was dye the drop targets. I feel the white targets with the red decal works well for the table.

I used these on the table I have up for sale right now: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/97410

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I've had a persistent problem with the memory on my Sharpshooter, seems to lose its high scores and displays a bunch of garbled stuff on the score displays when showing the high score. Resetting the high score and zeroing out all the settings straightens it all out, but after leaving the game off for a while, it inevitably loses its memory and needs to be reset to display proper high scores. Everything else works fine, and I've lived with the issue for a while since it never really bothered me. I'm getting ready to set it up at a buddies place and decided to fix the memory problem first since it's gonna be their only game there (for now... ) any advice?

The mpu on this game has been serviced by the coin op cauldron, and a memory cap was installed. I've tried different 5101 ram chips but for some reason the game will only work with the ram chips that it came installed with. I might have to reach out to the coin op cauldron to get this sorted, but thought I'd ask here in case anyone has any suggestions to run down first. Thanks!

Been my experience that memory caps don't last long, can you try a battery pack to test? Garbled display high score not unusual for a dead or missing battery, noted that on a friends Lizard I did repair work on.

That's a good suggestion, thanks! I have the parts to give that a try. I was reading in Clay's guide that he suggests adding a blocking diode, so I'll be sure to add that to the battery pack.

One other thing i realize i neglected to mention: the big blue 5v cap on the power supply/transformer assy was never changed, so i replaced it. Since doing that, i only had the game on for an hour or 2, so I'm thinking maybe the memory cap didn't get enough to charge fully.

My experience with memory caps has been good overall, but if the solution is a simple as adding a battery pack I'll gladly give it a shot. Thanks again for your help!

I picked up a Sharp Shooter 2 and also need some drop target decals. Also is there any place to purchase new pop bumper caps? Mine are yellowed.

Joined this club almost a year ago. Been slowly trying to bring my Star Trip back to life. Standard MPU acid damage. I repaired it as best I could, then sent it off to a tech friend who is better at board repair than me. Wish there was a source for those boards...

Just installed a new battery pack + blocking diode and so far so good! I ran wiring up to the head to keep the batteries easily accessible. Think that was the solution here, but I'll be sure to follow up if there's any further trouble.

Thanks!

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Looking for a picture of the instruction card for an Agents777. Of anyone has one, I'd sure appreciate it. Thanks.

Hey all. Can anyone ID what game this board is for? SSU-4 Sound Board. Cant seem to find any info on it. Thanks!

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Found it. It is a sound board for Super Nova. Info was in another thread....

SSU-4

By the next upright game, Super Nova, which was released in the early part of 1980, Game Plan realized one of the things its machines were missing was background sound (remember Flash had already been out for over a year by this time.) Extending the design of the SSU, a fourth 76477 sound generator chip was added to the board to provide background sound. The SSU-4 has a jumper on it that selects whether or not to enable background sound and you’ll note this in the SSU4 schematic where one of the sound generators is labeled “CONSOUND” for “continuous sound”. A picture of a SSU-4 with the jumper set for continuous sound can be found here:

http://peakpinball.com/.../uploads/2014/07/IMG_0739-Edit.jpg

With the SSU-4, Game Plan reduced the number of chime sounds produced by the board to three since it needed some of the lines on the 74154 to control the background sound, added the ability to turn the background sound on or off depending upon the game state, and while it kept the explosion, warble and howl effects, swapped in effects for a siren, twang and spark.

After the SSU-4, Game Plan had pushed the architecture to its limits and if it wanted better sounding machines, it needed to move to microprocessor controlled sound, which it did with its next game, Pinball Lizard.

Listed my Coney Island for sale yesterday if anyone is interested. https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/103782

Here’s a new product from Rit. This is more for synthetic materials and it’s called Rit Dye More Synthetic. I first just tried dumping the whole bottle in a ziploc bag and letting them soak at room temp. Nothing was happening. I then heated up the Dye with a little water to 200° and placed the targets in the pot. Within less than 3 or so mins, they came out dark red. I’d highly recommend using less dye and more water to get a lighter color of red. I’m truly amazed this actually worked. I even printed off some decals (they look terrible I know, but whatever). Thanks to MountBrew for posting the pic. Cheers!

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I couldn’t stand it so I had to reprint the Sharpshooter targets. To pay it forward, let me know if you need a sheet as I printed an extra. (DM me and I’m happy to send it to you). I printed them on Vinyl Sticker Paper and covered them with self sealing sheets. SealClubber thanks for posting the target image as well.
Cheers! Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah and Happy Happy Joy Joy!

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PM sent!

Glad you found a fix. I had the same issues with Andromeda years ago. Clay's guide at the time had said it would function fine with no battery which I had removed. That is not always the case however, I installed a lithium battery and that solved the problem. Jeez, that was way back in the RGP days.

For those wishing to expand their Game Plan collection, or join the club! Time for me to let this one go - too many other projects right now.
Selling my fully-working (with bad backglass) Agents 777 in the MD/DC/PA/WV/VA area. Asking $850 OBO.
We're near the "armpit" of the eastern panhandle of WV, easy access from I-70 connecting to I-68.
Agents 777

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whats-fs-in-maryland-right-now-maryland-fs-thread/page/264#post-6024062

Poor Cyclopes!

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Dunno who else saw the email but Jim at Echo Lake is no longer producing his replacement board because apparently Pinball Replacement Parts is producing their own Game Plan MPU replacement now.

Do you have a link for these replacement Game Plan MPU, I can't find them...

Follow the development here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/early-announcement-of-a-game-plan-mpu-redesign

Over the last month or so, I acquired 3 Game Plan machines. 2 Star Trips and a Super Nova.

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What legs originally came on the standard full size Game Plan pinball machines? From the pictures they look similar to the dark grey legs that Bally used in the early 80's. Are those the closet match for what should be on these or should they be black? In particular the original Sharp Shooter.

I have a Foxy Lady and I'm looking for the microswitch that registers the coin. It is a microswitch, I cannot find a parts list or a reference for these type of switches. Any information of cross-reference parts is appreciated!