Howdy Game Plan fans. I am looking for some help as I recently got an ANDROMEDA and I am bringing it back to life.

I have been scouring the web and seems to be some different opinions and no clear info on exactly how to rebuild/replace the flippers on these. Some suggest pre 80 Bally, some suggest early Stern, some suggest sys11, some suggest WPC.

I would like to replace the entire flipper assemblies with all new backing plate, coils, bushings, etc... the full swap. However I also want to retain the most accurate feel and power.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=107&pg=1

Looking at PBLIFE, which do you think is the best option for a full flipper assembly?
Do I need to get different bushings to get the correct height?
WHAT are the correct coils to use?
Should I order a specific coil stop to get the correct flipper travel?

Thanks in advance for your help.

I would love to get parts ordered today and would be happy to document the swap in with photos to help others in the future.

other parts I am ISO if you can help out.

I need 2 gameplan drop targets in red. If those are unobtanium, it sounds like Sega drops and then modify the drop mech to be 1/4inch lower is the trick? If I go that route, does anyone still have the bullseye target stickers?

Last thing I need is the top plastic channel that fite the top of the backglass. The glass is thicker than most and I cant find the correct part.

Gatecrasher has 3/16 channels.

I would try looking at that as an option since those seem closest to the original game plan assembly.

I'm pretty sure I have used game plan and early stern assemblies kicking around somewhere. I'll see if I can dig them up in the next couple days for a comparison.

This chart has the wire gauge and winding counts noted for game plan coils, so that might help: https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html

I bought a set of Data East (Sega) drops as extras for my Sharpshooter. Haven't eeded them yet.

I was also looking into running a batch of bullseye stickers for when I did switch over so if anyone wants to run a batch I'll take 8 -10. If not I may try to run them myself and post for everyone at some point.

thanks for all the info!

I am very confused on how to figure out the correct (or closest) equivalent in the coil chart.
Any idea and education for what would be the correct B/W coil to buy?

Same wire gauges and same winding counts.

Have you checked marco and PBR for gameplan coils? I seem to remember them stocking some.

I am under the impression that when updating teh assembly/bracket that I would then go with the updated coil that is closest to GP but actually B/W.

Gotcha. I wasn't sure if you were doing that or not.

Is there anything listed as a substitute on pinwiki?

not that I could find. I made a post in the vid thread hoping he may have some insight also.

I spotted this thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/substitute-for-gameplan-flipper-parts

Looks like someone has replaced them with classic stern assemblies before (plus the plunger, link, and pawl).

awesome!

Which coil should I go with from the drop down here? none seem to match gauge and windings

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2411

Given the available options, I would try J-25-450/34-4500. However, I would also suggest starting your own thread on this question as well to see if anyone has done it or if there is a better option.

I used early Stern parts for my Andromeda and SharpShooterII. No issues. I am pretty sure they are the pre-1980 CCM/Stern parts which has the base sit flush with the playfield. This means you need the shorter bushing and flipper shaft. But if you buy all new mechs then it doesn't matter.

I scanned and made my own drop target decals for my SS2. They don't look bad. I will email the file to whomever wants it. I just printed them on sticker paper. Copied and pasted so I had an entire sheet of them. When they eventually wear out just rip off the old ones and slap on the new ones.

Pinpilot, those plastics look to be real nice. It would be great to get a set of protectors made for Andromeda. Would you be willing to scan (600dpi) the bottom side of the plastics and send me the scans so I can get them made?

What coils did you use?

Just found this thread and am throwing it out there I've been looking for a Cyclopes forever. If anyone ever has a lead on one or wants to sell theirs I'm in!

They are the older flush stern style. Coils were stock and say 21-50008b
If you are going to buy new mechs. I would do the Williams conversion.

Wpc era? Which coils?

Pinwiki mentions the WPC flipper assemblies. But you keep the GP coil. I think it is the same mod for replacing old Stern flipper mechs with WPC.

Coil: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/21-50008 link was from pinwiki.

Here is my SharpShooter II drop target decal artwork if anyone wants to use it. I copied and pasted it a bunch of times into powerpoint and printed them onto label paper. Then cut them to size with my wife's scrapbook slicer. One sheet of paper made me probably a lifetime of stickers. I would print in low quality greyscale until you get them sized right. I don't remember the settings. I would also print them out on a Laser Printer if I were to do it again.

SS2 Drop (resized).jpg

thanks for all the help. I opted to go for the classic stern swap. I will update how it goes once they arrive.

If anyone has 2 Andromeda drop targets, please let me know how much you want for them. I would love to try and be original on those rather than do the DE modification.

Seal, I am tearing my game down and would be able to scan all my plastics when i have the game apart if needed.

Would be great to get a set of plastic protectors made.

LMK.

That would be great. How is your bat wolf plastic. Mine is broken I am trying to get a scan of a good one so I can have something made.

all my plastics are 100% intact. Some minor black missing from a few screw heads but that is easy to clean up.

Do you want me to just scan the entire set for you.

Then you make up the protectors for us. If you make an extra bat plastic I would be happy to have one of those also. Ill pay cost for my set.

Please instruct specifics of scanning that you need. I would likely head over to the local kinkos unless I need something better?

It is awesome your plastics are in such good shape.

For the protectors, I just need the bottoms (not the artwork side) scanned so that there is space around them. Not up against the side of the scanner please. This is so the maker can see the exact edges. Plus I need to tell him where the protector should be flush and where it needs the overlap. 600dpi is best. I did my Apocalypse Now plastics on my scanner at work. There can be more than one plastic scanned at a time as long as there is space around them.
I also give the measurements (L&W) of each plastic so he knows if the copier shrunk any scans. Since I have the game, I can give the measurements.

For the Batwolf, a nice 600dpi scan of the top should work. I think it was SPFXTED who had a friend able to print stuff on plastic with a good scan. I just could never get a good scan. I am not sure of the results but it will be better than I have now.

The problem with the GP drops (besides cost) is they are brittle. I have a set but they are not installed. I let the DE drops take the punishment. On SS, Andromeda and the other clones, the drops are sooo close to the flippers and take a beating.

sounds good. I will grab scans when tearing the game apart to clean.

I will ping you for your email once ready.

good call on the drops. I will do the DE thing I guess. I just need to find a bullseye sticker to put on them.

anyone tried to dye them red before?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-dye-posts-and-inserts-when-the-color-is-unobtainium

I used the red Rit dye for synthetics. It comes out a flat red but it is better than white.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/value-of-non-working-andromeda-without-backglass#post-2585945

Here's a pic of the dye'd red DE drops with the stickers I made for SS2.
Middle (resized).JPG
Here is a pic with the dye'd red DE drops in my Andromeda. These stickers are the ones sold on ebay.
Andromeda Playfield (resized).JPG

Thanks!

are the stickers from ebay too thick or do they cause any issues on drops sticking?

also, Seal

Did you figure out a way to replace the single tombstone drop on Andromeda? Suitable replacement? just just it down to size?

The ebay stickers work fine so far.
My tombstone is fine so I haven't looked hard for a sub but I haven't accidentally found one either. It is similar to the Allied Leisure drops which has me concerned. Those are very brittle. IMO, don't mess with it unless you absolutely have to, and then be very gentle. A sticker won't work on the single drop as there is not enough clearance.

On another note, I'm guilty of not ranking or writing a review of this game. I see it needs maybe 3 more votes, maybe some of you Sharpshooter folk could post up some numbers and show this pin some love.

I think it would be nice to get this thread retitled to remove the sharpshooter from it, assuming this is the larger gameplan thread?

Yeah, it's misleading.
You should trade me your Andromeda for my Sharpshooter so you'll feel better about it.

lol. that is funny. I got Andromeda to flipping stage last night and WOW, what a game!!!!

I have 1 switch error (top left roll over lane) I cant seem to figure out, but got to at least play a few games before I completely tear it apart! I can say 100% that I will never sell it. It really is an amazing game and so happy to finally have one. I lokked back and I have been hunting it since March 2013 so 4.5 years to find this one. I really needed this also! I had gotten burned and sniped on a few games recently and it was starting to feel defeating to be hunting the ISO list. Getting this one has completely amped me up!!!!

I cant wait to get it at 100% and playing crisp! I started trying LEDs last night and it is going to look AMAZING once done!

I think my plan is to rebuild everything in time for Mad Rollin Charity event. Then after that I may tear it all apart and clear the pf.

If you find an led which will work in the inserts let me know. The lamp and solenoid theory are the same as bally sterns. So adding a resistor should work. I just don't want to do all those lamps.

Im parting out a Game plan Foxy Lady. Complete playfield with coil, mechs, flipper mechs, etc.. Few boards to.
Let me know what you may need.
Pm me with parts list.
Thanks Eric

Looking for a Sharpshooter or other gameplan in Florida (Tampa)! PM me please.

I've had my Andromeda for 9 years. I absolutely love it.

Can anyone please confirm for me...

Do your standup targets have foam behind them?

Does not appear to have been stock on Andromeda or other GP games.

My Andromeda does not. I don't think my SS2 had them either but my pics of that area aren't the best.

thanks

my game just blew magic smoke.

looks like Andromeda is now Dead.

Honestly I have no idea on where to even start with this since I cant find an Andromeda schematic online and the GP documentation is pretty bad it seems.

Can a resistor just go bad? The one from pin7 on J5 went poof.
any idea how to read the banding and figure out what is the correct replacement to order?

I did notice that when turning on the game, the center of the top pop bumpers would always fire for a split second. Now it is full locked on.

P9100526 (resized).JPG

safe to assume that is supposed to be the same resistors in the rest of that row, 100ohm resistor?

brown, black, brown, gold ?

Can someone else verify please on your MPU

Foxy lady for sale in OC, Ca. ALSO comes with parts Foxy lady , thats 2 for $500. Pm me.

I located an Echo Lakes GP MPU that was previously in a sharpshooter. I am unable to get a reply from Jim today and curious if it may work in Andromeda with a ROM swap or?

I know others have said they need to be reprogrammed but my buddy had it in a Lizard after his sharpshooter and no problem running both of those apparently?

Super Nova owner here, in the club!

Bought this a few months ago as a project and thanks to info I found online I was successfully able to repair the mpu and get it all working again. Wasn't sure it would be a keeper, but it will be as long as it gets played. And a great player it is.

sn (resized).jpg

pf (resized).jpg

I bought a Game Plan Attila the Hun about 20 years ago for $150. Replaced one transistor on the driver board and that was it. I've never done any upgrades or mods to the machine and it has been working great for 20 years. Probably the most reliable machine I have. Game Plan machines are definitely underrated...