Thank you Viper!

The flipper relay or its associated solder joints could be bad. Check that too.

Well this Coney Island is driving me nuts. I repined the connector, reflowed the flipper relay solder joints and no change. The flippers were still intermittent and seemed to start working after the game was on a few minutes. Well last night the right flipper locked on, got it turned off right away. Tested q19 transistor and it was ok, well the high side was about 6.2 but figured that would be ok. Put my dmm on the coil and got 1.3, cut the diode and still got 1.3. First thought was I had a bad coil. Just for giggles i tested the left coil and also got 1.3. Cut the diode and still 1.3. I cut the coils out and got 23.4 on one and 23.3 on the other. I assume that would mean the 21-50008 coils are good? If I am under standing the flipper circuit correctly q19 doesn't have a predriver as it goes directly to the flipper relay. I would welcome any suggestions. Thanks

Check the mat-n-lok connectors between the cab and head. These have a tendency to get corroded and have a poor connection. Your intermittant problem sounds like its there. Honestly, all the connectors between the backbox and cab should probably be repinned.

viperrwk

Just picked up a Foxy Lady for 100$ GI turns on but the MPU def needs work.
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There is an Attilla the Hun for sale by me. He claims it was working until he disconnected some connectors to move it. It appears to be in decent shape from pictures.my dilemma is while I wouldn't mind picking it up I just don't think it's worth $600. Am I just a cheap ass or is that a normal price?

Get it now!, so few were made. 600 is the going price!!

Was reading every post in this thread...What about Captain Hook? Amazing look and playfield! I just got one, so excited, the game rocks. Does this mean I can join the GP club? Could really use a scan of backglass and the drop targets. My targets are worn, have no idea what was on them. My backglass is flaking bad. Would love a new backglass or a scan to make one. Worth the cost for this amazing machine. Will post pictures tomorrow. Please pm me and let me know.

GI is very intermittent on my Andromeda. It comes back if I rock the ice cube relay in its socket, so I'm 99% sure that either the relay or the socket (or both) are at fault. I went ahead and removed one of the relay sockets, which looks burned. One of the relays looked corroded too.

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IMG_7413.JPG

I found the 14-pin 4PDT 24 VDC relays and sockets at Allied Electronics:

http://www.alliedelec.com/idec-corporation-ru4s-d24/70173268/
http://www.alliedelec.com/idec-corporation-sy4s-62/70174855/

Data sheet with more info about IDEC relays:

http://www.alliedelec.com/images/products/datasheets/bm/IDEC_CORPORATION/70172560.pdf

UPDATE (11-28): these parts all worked great.

Swampfire;please let us know if that relay works. Great find for replacement. Good luck, it looks right. But, don't get rid of original stock. The picture shown, those can be cleaned.

How would you clean the inside of an ice cube relay? It looks like the tiny metal reeds are corroded.

The pic below shows what the new relay looks like, next to the old one. The REALLY nice thing about the new relay is the indicator LED. It flashes on and off to indicate the state of the switches. Nice upgrade!

Also, here are the manufacturer part numbers, in case the links above stop working.

Relay: IDEC RU4S-D24 (Relay; E-Mech; Latching; 4PDT; Cur-Rtg 6A; Ctrl-V 24DC; Vol-Rtg 30 DC/250 AC/240 AC)
Relay Socket: IDEC SY4S-62 (Socket, Relay; 14; 4; PCB Mount; 250 V; 7 A; 100 Megohms Insulation Resistance)

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And now that my GI relay is working, I've discovered a secondary problem: the GI connector at the PSU board is red-hot. So now I get to rebuild the connector and the header...fun.

[EDIT: finished, HUGE improvement in playfield brightness]

I'm getting 28V (DC) at my coils, instead of 24V. This explains why the coils are too strong. Checking my transformer to see if it's properly set for 115 VAC... [edit: moved to tech thread]

Anyone know how to turn off extras on Sharpshooter? I haven't seen a dip switch that supports that.

What extras do you want to turn off? You can turn a lot of the extra ball stuff off in the menu/dip switches.

All of them

http://www.pinrepair.com/gp/manuals/gp-manual-sshooter.pdf

I didn't anything in the manual to turn them off, but maybe there's a 'global' dipswitch for Game Plan games that handle this?

Ok. S29 to "on" awards replays instead of extra balls. I'll check and see if there are others. I also have mine set at 6 1/2 degrees, plays very fast.

That's for the scoring level replays only (not the feature extra balls). This adjustment was for cities like NYC where replays were illegal to hand out, but add-a-ball games were okay.

I am a proud member of the Andromeda strain. I have it all cleaned up but am waiting on parts to service the boards. The MPU had no corrosion that I could see and the connectors all look nice and shiny. I will probably replace them anyway. I only have one broken plastic (batwolf) and the playfield has no wear. It does have those micro cracks all over it so I need to get it cleared before it starts chipping. I want to get it working before I tear it apart though. Cab is solid with minor scuffs. It came without a BG but I was able to get a nice one for it from a fellow Pinsider but my displays are all about 1/4" too low, but the panel is in the correct location. It is a 3/16" backglass and the guy I bought it from said his other one is only 1/8". So maybe this one is a proto and the windows are in a slightly different spot?
I uploaded the Parts manual to IPDB since it was missing.

So question, Does your Andromeda have a 1/8" or 3/16" thick backglass?

My Andromeda has a 3/16" backglass; it's heavy! I spent most of my weekend resolving various issues on mine, and I'm looking forward to playing it this week.

SealClubber, I have those micro-cracks on mine too, but I just waxed it 3 times after I was done cleaning it with ME. So far the cracks are staying clean - we'll see. When you get yours working, let me know how often the ball hits the glass for you. I'm getting a lot of airballs, especially off that lone left drop target.

What size connectors do they take for the backbox to playfield connectors? I have .093 connectors and they won't fit inside the housings. Yeah I could buy all new connectors but why replace perfectly good housings?

Nevermind. I see there is a .084 sized connectors which I am assuming these are. Guess I will be placing another order.

CAPTAIN HOOK Backglass?? Anyone? Anywhere? Could really use a Captain Hook backglass or anyone who knows how to make one. Thank you very much and Happy Holidays.

Pretty cool article featuring a Sharp Shooter in Popular Mechanics:

http://www.popularmechanics.com/technology/a17933/i-tried-to-fix-a-pinball-machine/

Props to my bro for helping the writer!

Just read the article. I enjoyed it. Tell your bro great job for making a good impression.

Bump.. on the market I have a complete sharpshooter playfield for sale.
If anyone here needs parts of it, let me know..

need spinner, one drop target, 1 red lane guide, 1 red post, upper left ball guide/return.

Could use white drop targets, my game has 8, 4 would work. Thanks

Also Game Plan fan's, after much debate and thought, I'm selling my Captain Hook....
Need the room or bigger house, can't afford the house, so the Captain must go. 100% awesome game. PM if interested.
I also put up for sale add yesterday.
Super rare PINBALL.

Been wanting a Captain hook, but sorry $4800 is significantly too much for almost every Game Plan title let alone captain hook. GLWTS tho.

In my Andromeda, the coil that kicks the ball from the trough to the plunger lane is defective. Unfortunately I can't identify the part # because the paper is missing. Can someone please take a look under their playfield and let me know which of these coils it is?

Thanks to Pinball Medic for the table!

GamePlanCoils_(resized).PNG

Question bumped for the day crowd

What my Sharpshooter uses is 21-50003B.

Thanks! And confirmed on Marco's site:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/21-50003

"acquired" this machine from a neighbor moving and wanted rid of it. Has been covered up in my basement for years. Finally getting around to seeing what it is going to take to get it up to par...! Good working condition...needs some TLC.

DSC00066_(resized).JPG

Congrats! I had to drive to NC for my Andromeda, but it remains a favorite. Let me know if you need any local help.

Thanks...I will. Just ordered a bunch of parts. Looking forward to bringing this thing back to life...

I'm jelly....

could someone do me a kindness? i'm trying to track down 4 broken wires in my sharpshooter.

the first is on J5 to the MPU board (echo lake board, but i don't think it matters). One wire is solid black, the other is gray and yellow. if someone could snap a picture, or tell me which pins those two wires go to, i'd be much appreciative.

the second is on the unlabeled single green dot connector on the LDU-2 board. it is the higher connector on the right side of the board. my solid blue and gold with blue stripe wires are cut.

Ok, here we go. Looking at the print (not home right now). MPU J5 - Black is Strobe 3 on pin 3. Gray/Yellow is Line 2 on pin 15. LDU, looks like you are talking about J10. Solid Blue is Loop 1 on pin 14, Yellow/Blue is "Same Player" on pin 1. Is that what you were looking for?

yes, thank you very much!

CAPTAIN HOOK- For sale in the marketplace.
Price drop for very nice machine.$2500
Pm with any questions, only 454 made.

Hey!! Where did everybody go?? I FINALLY bought my first Gameplan and I want to join the club!!

It's a Sharpshooter!

It's DOA! (acid galore. Bad backglass. no lockdown bar...)

I'm gonna have a lot of questions!!

Wow..I posted that a year ago?
MrArt, congrats...good news sharp shooter parts can be found.
I have a dead Foxy lady cocktail.
Time to give this thread life again.

Have a mint Captain Hook.. Would possibly trade also.. Great Backglass and plastics..Cabinet etc...A beautiful machine

IMG_20170604_145422935 (resized).jpg

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Ha! I'm glad you posted in this thread, I just picked mine up a few weeks ago. Mine is/was around 95% playable.

Here's a quick question, where can I find/purchase FULL SIZE schematics?

Looking forward to helping each other out

Howdy to all the other Game Plan guys out there! Just picked up the factory whitewood for Andromeda. Gonna need some TLC, but should be playable soon. I'd love to get Roger Sharp's signature on it.

There's a Sharpshooter for sale locally for $650 that looks pretty nice. If I got it, I would own the first and last models of pins made by Game Plan. Tempting...

andromeda whiteboard (resized).jpg

PinPilot, I'm jealous for certain!

I was just checking out your game collection, is this the only Andromeda you have, or did you already own one and this is the Bonus?

I know there isn't a lot of love for Sharpshooter around here, but I've been playing mine at 90% working status for over a month and really enjoy it. I say you go grab that other one

This is my first Game Plan. A local Pinsider has offered $1200, so I may not keep it. I may use some of the proceeds to buy the Sharpshooter though.

Honestly, I have no idea of the value, I guess it's just "what someone is willing to pay"...