(Topic ID: 71772)

Game Plan owners club. Welcome!

By SpOoKyRiDeS

10 years ago


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There are 1,018 posts in this topic. You are on page 21 of 21.
#1001 3 months ago
Quoted from swampwiz:

UPDATE: I have found a proper schematic at the Game Plan website.

This is the link for anyone interested : https://www.gameplanpinball.com/documents.html

1 week later
#1002 3 months ago
Quoted from splattii:

I traded some records for a Sharpshooter project. It turns on, some music plays, all the displays work. I can insert a coin, it makes a sound when the coin drops, I can hit start. Once I hit start player one display goes to 000000. Every switch on the playfield scores but not a single solenoid will fire. I assume at this point my driver board is dead. Flippers are dead, no pop bumpers work but they score, outhole doesn't work, slingshots don't work but score, kickout hole doesn't kickout but it scores, all rollovers score. Assuming the solenoid board is most likely the issue, is there any other likely culprit other than the MPU or cable/wiring? I've already gone over the fuses etc but I'm not familiar with Gameplan and any quirks it might have

Splattii,

Look on bottom of playfield for a 10A or so fuse. If burned, then one of a number things have killed the solenoid power line.

If burned, make up a 10A circuit breaker soldered to the burned fuse, and put this into the place for the fuse. This breaker will save you a pile of burned fuses, as you can reset it if it throws.

If this fuse is burned, then there is a good possibility the the mux(multiplexer) on the solenoid driver board need a replace. What happens is every solenoid is ON when the machine is first turned on. Obviously, this is way too much current for a one-at-a-time expected current in true play, or maybe one solenoid, plus flippers.

So the 74154 is a cheap chip. Replace it and use a pair of straight row pin sockets, instead of a two-row IC socket.

Alternatively, there is a solenoid fuse on the power supply. Check it, too.

#1003 3 months ago

I didn't read through any of this thread but "Agents 777" was a really fun game. If you have never played it and you like classic games (uhg, I feel so old) seek it out and play it .

4 weeks later
#1004 66 days ago
Quoted from MrBigg:

I would cut one out of plexi, or acrylic, and get someone to print off a vinyl for the art. Reverse vinyl sticker, put it on from underneath, and should be mighty close to original

???

#1005 66 days ago

This is for Old Coney Island! I think the playfield wiring on mine is screwed up for the Loop lamps. Counting from the bottom, all but lamp #4 are wired to the driver, with #4 wired to General Illumination; however, the schematic shows that there are drive lamps for all but #5.

Thus, the wiring would be correct if the #5 lamp is in the #4 lamp position, which of course makes absolutely no sense. But just to be safe, I would like an Old Coney Island! owner (with one in fully working order, LOL) to verify that the #5 lamp (i.e., at the top) is General Illumination, and that the #4 lamp (just below #5) is driven.

#1006 66 days ago

I'm sure someone will eventually chime in with the info you're looking for, i just wanted to say Sharpshooter has a very similar set of rollovers and the fourth one is always lit (wired into the GI). The others would light as the multiplier value increased. It makes sense--the button that's always lit would represent 1x multiplier, the others light up to signify the rest up to 5x (all 5 buttons lit). Come to think of it, I believe the point value of the buttons changes when they’re lit as well. I've never played Old Coney Island so i can't say with full certainty that's what's happening--but it has so many parallels with Sharpshooter I'd be surprised if it's different.

#1007 61 days ago
Quoted from swampwiz:

This is for Old Coney Island! I think the playfield wiring on mine is screwed up for the Loop lamps. Counting from the bottom, all but lamp #4 are wired to the driver, with #4 wired to General Illumination; however, the schematic shows that there are drive lamps for all but #5.
Thus, the wiring would be correct if the #5 lamp is in the #4 lamp position, which of course makes absolutely no sense. But just to be safe, I would like an Old Coney Island! owner (with one in fully working order, LOL) to verify that the #5 lamp (i.e., at the top) is General Illumination, and that the #4 lamp (just below #5) is driven.

#4 is lit from start, and stays on and is the initial multiplier until you start lighting letters in "Coney" in which others will light to increase the muliplier.

Also I made a lexan cover to stop balls from ricocheting into the glass, and to help with damage to drops by keeping the ball lower on the hit.
It has worked fantastically for months now, and we play our Coney quite regularly here.

Looks pretty good with LEDs in the game as well, lights it up much better.

By the way, on the hunt for a sharp shooter that's working, and a decent pf.

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3 weeks later
#1008 38 days ago
Quoted from swampwiz:

This is for Old Coney Island! I think the playfield wiring on mine is screwed up for the Loop lamps. Counting from the bottom, all but lamp #4 are wired to the driver, with #4 wired to General Illumination; however, the schematic shows that there are drive lamps for all but #5.
Thus, the wiring would be correct if the #5 lamp is in the #4 lamp position, which of course makes absolutely no sense. But just to be safe, I would like an Old Coney Island! owner (with one in fully working order, LOL) to verify that the #5 lamp (i.e., at the top) is General Illumination, and that the #4 lamp (just below #5) is driven.

I’d love to convert this thing to LED, has anyone figured out a way to do that without soldering a ton of resistors in?

Who was selling the 3D printed drop targets in red? I need a whole set for my Coney Island ASAP

#1009 37 days ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

I’d love to convert this thing to LED, has anyone figured out a way to do that without soldering a ton of resistors in?
Who was selling the 3D printed drop targets in red? I need a whole set for my Coney Island ASAP

All gi can be converted without resistors, backbox as well. Only lights you cant change are special insert lighting.

#1010 37 days ago
Quoted from MrBigg:

All gi can be converted without resistors, backbox as well. Only lights you cant change are special insert lighting.

I already converted the others, I meant the playfield inserts. Should have clarified

#1011 37 days ago

picked these NOS GP flippers from a local vendor at NWPAS this weekend. he thinks they're the same as the WICOs, and considering he specializes in EM and very early SS games, he'd be the one to know.

i have two Lizards that i need to get working on this summer, once i complete a few Williams System 6 + 7 projects. i plan to make a best out of the two and pass on the other, hopefully fully working as well. sure i'll be back once i start the Lizard projects.

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#1012 34 days ago
Quoted from mc300baud:

picked these NOS GP flippers from a local vendor at NWPAS this weekend. he thinks they're the same as the WICOs, and considering he specializes in EM and very early SS games, he'd be the one to know.
i have two Lizards that i need to get working on this summer, once i complete a few Williams System 6 + 7 projects. i plan to make a best out of the two and pass on the other, hopefully fully working as well. sure i'll be back once i start the Lizard projects.[quoted image]

The old Stern flippers are the same, too.
Pretty sure Steve at PBR said the Gottlieb fat flippers are the same. Wouldn’t surprise me if everyone got them from the same place for a while

1 week later
#1013 27 days ago

Hey everyone! I just picked up an Old Coney Island, Agents 777 and a Lizard. I am going to be able to save all 3 it looks like but my Lizard Backglass is really bad. Does anyone have one or know where to get one.

If you have one and maybe want to sell. Send me a message.

Thanks!

#1014 26 days ago

I used solid state bally flippers in mine, and like how they shoot much better.
Has made shots more hittable as they seem to aim better for lack of a better word.
Also have had no glass hits since I installed the plastic piece above my drop targets.
Those have been my best two mods to date

3 weeks later
#1015 4 days ago

Picked this up yesterday it is my first game plan. I need a bumper cap and eye ball decal. Will Bally side rails and legs fit? Want to rebuild the flippers, can I used complete classic bally assembly? Have not turned it on yet. It is in really nice condition.

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#1016 3 days ago

How sells cycolpes drop stickers?

#1017 3 days ago

What are the dip switch setting for Cyclopes? Can’t find anything on it.

#1018 3 days ago
Quoted from MrBigg:

I used solid state bally flippers in mine, and like how they shoot much better.
Has made shots more hittable as they seem to aim better for lack of a better word.
Also have had no glass hits since I installed the plastic piece above my drop targets.
Those have been my best two mods to date

What plastic piece? I could use that for my Captain Hook, the air balls are insane!

Quoted from tatman9999:

Picked this up yesterday it is my first game plan. I need a bumper cap and eye ball decal. Will Bally side rails and legs fit? Want to rebuild the flippers, can I used complete classic bally assembly? Have not turned it on yet. It is in really nice condition.

That Cyclopes is ridiculous. What a find!!!

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