(Topic ID: 71772)

Game Plan owners club. Welcome!


By SpOoKyRiDeS

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 374 posts
  • 78 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by slgerber
  • Topic is favorited by 30 Pinsiders

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There are 374 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 8.
#51 4 years ago
Quoted from catboxer:

Sharpshooter did not have a knocker, correct?

Correct. From my research, GP's use of the knocker is very curious given it's importance in pinball. All their cocktail machines had knockers except for their last one, Lady Sharpshooter, where the schematics list the knocker as "optional". Yet, uprights didn't have knockers until at least after Global Warfare and perhaps as late as Andromeda. Exactly when, what, and why I do not know and any answers I have would be speculation. Cost savings would be the guess but seems a penny-wise, pound-foolish move compared to the competition.

viperrwk

#52 4 years ago

Interesting. I was wondering because I saw someone past a picture of their cyclops cab and it had a bell. Then I thought, why doesn't SS at least have a knocker?

#53 4 years ago

Cyclopes has both a bell and a knocker.

2 weeks later
#54 4 years ago

vipperrwk: Just picked up a sharpshooter and it DID have the sheet you needed. Some of it anyways...

1104142155.jpg 1104142155a.jpg 1104142157.jpg 1104142157a.jpg 1104142157b.jpg
#55 4 years ago

Whoops, some of them are sideways. Sorry about that.

#56 4 years ago

Thanks for posting!

viperrwk

1 week later
#57 4 years ago

Hi
I am trying to get my Game Plan foxy lady cocktail up and running.
I have a new MPU board from Echo Lake pinball.
I have everything working except for the displays (correct voltage coming out of the MPU board)
and also the only rollerover that works is the top one. Any ideas?
thanks in advance
Jeff Rank

#58 4 years ago
Quoted from surfsled:

Hi
I am trying to get my Game Plan foxy lady cocktail up and running.
I have a new MPU board from Echo Lake pinball.
I have everything working except for the displays (correct voltage coming out of the MPU board)
and also the only rollerover that works is the top one. Any ideas?
thanks in advance
Jeff Rank

Do you get all six flashes to the MPU?
Did you run the diagnostic tests?
Try disconnecting one of the displays and see if the other one works. If not, reverse and try again.

The MPU must fully boot for you to get anything on the displays. If it does, you should get *something* on the display even if it's garbage. If you get nothing, it's possible you have a bad cable and the displays are not getting any power (unlikely). It's rare you get absolutely nothing on the displays when the machine is fully booted.

viperrwk

#59 4 years ago

Do you get all six flashes to the MPU?
Did you run the diagnostic tests?
Try disconnecting one of the displays and see if the other one works. If not, reverse and try again.

The MPU must fully boot for you to get anything on the displays. If it does, you should get *something* on the display even if it's garbage. If you get nothing, it's possible you have a bad cable and the displays are not getting any power (unlikely). It's rare you get absolutely nothing on the displays when the machine is fully booted.

viperrwk
Thanks for the response.
Yes I did get all six flashes on the MPU . It is a brand new MPU. All the lamps and solenoids work in diagnostics. I haven't checked the roll over switches in diagnostics mostly because I can't see the displays. I have swapped out the boards on the ribbon cable with no avail. I will check the continuity on the ribbon cable today. The game was picked up outside of someones house and the game was frozen.. not sure if this would affect the LED's on the display.
Jeff Rank

#60 4 years ago

I found a broken wire #1 on the ribbon cable. This must be the problem. Does anyone have a ribbon cable for the dual display boards? Thanks
Jeff Rank

#61 4 years ago

Someone obviously mishandled the cable at some point. Unfortunately that ribbon cable is a bit tricky to come by. Your best bet is to order the ribbon and connectors and make it yourself, unless someone has a cocktail they are parting (different cable than what was used in the uprights).

viperrwk

#62 4 years ago

Thanks
Yes I am know the cable is different. Only the #1 small cable is broken. Do you think I could do a long smaller jumper wire to the 3 boards just for that wire?
Jeff

#63 4 years ago

So I am finally going to be getting around to working on fixing my Star Trip and I could use help.
It fires ups but the fuse under the playfield will get read hot and blow within 10 seconds or so of the power being on. Pretty sure that fuse goes to the pops, slingshots, kickout hole etc.

Any suggestions on where I should start? I already looked for shorts or potential grounds in the wiring and didn't see anything on my first go round.
I really would like to get it working. The boards appear to be in decent shape. Any help would be hugely appreciated. Thanks!

#64 4 years ago
Quoted from surfsled:

Thanks
Yes I am know the cable is different. Only the #1 small cable is broken. Do you think I could do a long smaller jumper wire to the 3 boards just for that wire?
Jeff

You can try it - basically anything you do will be an improvisation.

viperrwk

#65 4 years ago
Quoted from JosiahCox:

So I am finally going to be getting around to working on fixing my Star Trip and I could use help.
It fires ups but the fuse under the playfield will get read hot and blow within 10 seconds or so of the power being on. Pretty sure that fuse goes to the pops, slingshots, kickout hole etc.
Any suggestions on where I should start? I already looked for shorts or potential grounds in the wiring and didn't see anything on my first go round.
I really would like to get it working. The boards appear to be in decent shape. Any help would be hugely appreciated. Thanks!

First need to do a resistance check on all the coils and make sure they are ok. After that check the power transistors on the SDU-1. I'm pulling together the next chapter on Game Plan board repairs - it happens to be on the SDU-1. It's actually pretty easy to diagnose and repair the SDU. If you want a preview PM me.

viperrwk

#66 4 years ago

Thanks viperrwk!
Between help with this game and Stargate I really am in your debt. I appreciate it man.

1 week later
#67 4 years ago

Has anyone ever made a decal or found a way to restore the Sharpshooter standup target artwork? Mine are worn and this has always kinda bugged me. Here's the target I'm referring to...
57.png

#68 4 years ago

In case any GP owners missed this, a call for help:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/calling-cyclopes-owners-please-help

viperrwk

1 week later
#69 4 years ago

Finally working

1204142200.jpg
#70 4 years ago
Quoted from catboxer:

Has anyone ever made a decal or found a way to restore the Sharpshooter standup target artwork? Mine are worn and this has always kinda bugged me. Here's the target I'm referring to...
I've never seen a decal for those. I made a bunch of drop target decals years ago, but those are long gone too. ~SpOoKy

57.png 338 KB

#71 4 years ago

I think your picture got trapped in the quotes. Those drop target decals you sent me are still holding up nicely! I think I have 1 left, gotta be on the lookout for an extra drop...or 7.

#72 4 years ago

Anyone have a Cyclopes manual or flyer? Looking for some as the manual online is incomplete. Thanks

2 months later
#73 4 years ago

Has anyone ever done custom sharpshooter apron cards? Thinking about giving it a try, but don't want to reinvent the wheel.

3 weeks later
#74 4 years ago

Anyone have scans of the Sharpshooter spin target and drop targets? If not I may try to scan and clean the images.

#75 4 years ago

Yeah, I have the spinner in PDF. Will upload soon. No drops though...

#76 4 years ago

Cool, thanks.

#77 4 years ago

I have some drops with the decals on them, I saw in your pics that you had some without them. Id trade them for your drops without the decals as I still want extras for my Cyclopes.

#78 4 years ago

I may be doing another run of the drop target decals if it seems others need them. We ran these like 6 or so years ago and I gave away about 25+ complete sets, but finally tapped out. If I remake them they will be laminated and as to cost zero idea until the printer gets back to me, and not for free this time as the cost is even larger but hoping to get these done by summer! ~SpOoKy

#79 4 years ago

I'm in! Awesome to hear. The last set is holding up nicely. I can send you the spinner file if you want to reprint that too.

#80 4 years ago

Yeah man, that would be great too! Send me a pm and I'll send ya my email! Thanks~SpOoKy

#81 4 years ago

OK, Here's the spinner. I printed my set out a few years back, but I seem to recall having to set the print size to something like 80 or 85% of full scale. I would do a couple tests on regular paper before using a decal.

I just serviced my SharpShooter and one of the things I did was completely strip the spinner, paint it with white enamel, and put one of these decals on. I used printer paper decals, so I then laminated it with clear packing tape and trimmed the excess with an exacto. But it sounds like Spooky is up for making proper ones!

GP_Spinner.pdf
#82 4 years ago
Quoted from SpOoKyRiDeS:

I may be doing another run of the drop target decals if it seems others need them. We ran these like 6 or so years ago and I gave away about 25+ complete sets, but finally tapped out. If I remake them they will be laminated and as to cost zero idea until the printer gets back to me, and not for free this time as the cost is even larger but hoping to get these done by summer! ~SpOoKy

If your referring to Sharpshooter, I'd be interested in a set for sure.

#83 4 years ago
Quoted from SpOoKyRiDeS:

I may be doing another run of the drop target decals if it seems others need them. We ran these like 6 or so years ago and I gave away about 25+ complete sets, but finally tapped out. If I remake them they will be laminated and as to cost zero idea until the printer gets back to me, and not for free this time as the cost is even larger but hoping to get these done by summer! ~SpOoKy

I need a set bad. Let me know if you run them.
Thanks

#84 4 years ago

I probably will do both the spinner and drop target decals. I'm working right now on arcrylic toppers for non-licensed pins but as I'm using a guy with 35 years experience with a full blown art dept. within I think he can easily repo the decals laminated. I'll keep you guys posted as I get closer ok? Thanks, spooks

#85 4 years ago

Thanks Spooky, put me down for a set as well.

3 weeks later
#86 4 years ago

Does anyone have a full or partial scan of a Sharpshooter playfield? Doing repairs and was hoping to speed this ups (rather than me trying to guess and draw in the missing parts).

2 weeks later
#87 4 years ago

I bought a Coney Island last week from an op. When i picked it up the head was connected and just laid down on the bottom cabinet and shrink wrapped. When i got it home i realized why. He had taken out a connector between the head and base and direct wired them together. Obviously i have to put a connector back in. Figured i would just a 15 pin molex but wondered if there is a better connector choice? Thanks

#88 4 years ago
Quoted from indy5mike:

I bought a Coney Island last week from an op. When i picked it up the head was connected and just laid down on the bottom cabinet and shrink wrapped. When i got it home i realized why. He had taken out a connector between the head and base and direct wired them together. Obviously i have to put a connector back in. Figured i would just a 15 pin molex but wondered if there is a better connector choice? Thanks

Molex are the best!

#89 4 years ago

Game Plan used Mat-N-Lok connectors between the head and cab. These typically get corroded and cause connector problems to the playfield. As long as you replace both sides of the connector in a way that you won't confuse it with the other connectors, doesn't really matter what you use.

viperrwk

#90 4 years ago

Have a lot of NOS Game Plan coils for cheaper than any of the usual suspects for sale at: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/ad/19713

#91 4 years ago

Hey guys,
I am having trouble with the Coney Island i just bought. It starts a game and the ball ejects but none of the coils work nor does any scoring. I have checked all the connectors, fuses, and reseated socketed items. The coils work in test. The seller claims it was working and i really do believe him. Any ideas?

#92 4 years ago

Anybody have a Sharpshooter II that could take a couple pics for me of the kick out area (plastics and posts) as well as the mini orbit behind the kick out? I think the SS-II that I picked up recently has a couple missing posts and plastics are broken/missing. Thanks.

#93 4 years ago
Quoted from indy5mike:

Hey guys,
I am having trouble with the Coney Island i just bought. It starts a game and the ball ejects but none of the coils work nor does any scoring. I have checked all the connectors, fuses, and reseated socketed items. The coils work in test. The seller claims it was working and i really do believe him. Any ideas?

Do the switches work in test?

viperrwk

#94 4 years ago
Quoted from rad:

Anybody have a Sharpshooter II that could take a couple pics for me of the kick out area (plastics and posts) as well as the mini orbit behind the kick out? I think the SS-II that I picked up recently has a couple missing posts and plastics are broken/missing. Thanks.

Don't have a SSII - best I can do for you. Yellow are the rubber rings highlighted.

viperrwk

Sharp Shooter II Playfield Diagram

Sharp Shooter II Playfield Parts Listing - Top

#95 4 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

Do the switches work in test?
viperrwk

Thanks Viper,
Got it working!!! Went into switch test and realized the tilt switch #80 was closed. Readjusted it and now everything is working! Now for some serious cleaning.

#96 4 years ago

Does anyone know how to set the "Balls Per Game" for Andromeda? I bought the $20 set of downloadable manuals, and I tried settings switches 23 and 24 to ON. I also tried switch 28. No luck. Is it set through the coin door switch?

I need to set it to 5-ball play for a pin golf event this weekend.

Thanks,
John

#97 4 years ago

I don't own an Andromeda or any other later GP machines that use the 2732 ROMs.

However, I can confirm and have tested in the emulator that switches 23 and 24 do indeed set the number of balls per game for Andromeda and that turning both on should set the machine for 5 ball play, regardless of the ROM version you have installed in the machine (there are at least two known versions for Andromeda just like there are for Cyclopes).

If it's not working for you you might have a bad DIP bank or bad diodes on the switches - a common problem if there was any board corrosion.

viperrwk

#98 4 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

I can confirm and have tested in the emulator that switches 23 and 24 do indeed set the number of balls per game for Andromeda and that turning both on should set the machine for 5 ball play

OK, that worked - I was counting the DIP switches up from the bottom (Bally-style). Game Plan has pin 1 at the top.

1 week later
#99 4 years ago

I am having an issue with a Coney Island i just got. Both flippers go dead intermittently. While they were out i have metered all the fuses and reseated the connectors, nothing. Just out of the blue they start working. Any suggestions? I plan on changing all the connectors. Anyone know which connector carries the flippers?
Thanks,
Mike

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There are 374 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 8.

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