Those originals sure look like Gottlieb drop targets, sans pics of course. Shouldn't be hard to make waterslides from the original art.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gameplan_Repair#Drop_Targets

They require modifications to work.

Mr_Tantrum made new drops for my Jolly Park. Nice and strong! Can't hurt to hurt to ask him if he'd be interested in that project.

Plenty of documentation on it. You have two roads you can take, but skip the idea of getting authentic GP drops any more. They are brittle as hell.

It would be nice to tell me the two roads. Searching “drop targets” in this club thread only brings up a few posts about Sharpshooter. I’m assuming it’s the DE method or the Gottlieb method?
You’re telling me nobody has 3D printed new targets? I know the originals are brittle, where is the OG mold? Don’t make start ringing up plastic makers in Chicago!

I guess he refers to the link posted above ? https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gameplan_Repair#Drop_Targets

Correct. I know someone who did the de version and it works fine

Greetings! I had a drop target break on my Sharpshooter the other night, and I am getting a little low on spares. I went ahead and sketched up a drop target and 3D printed last night. I just got it installed during lunch and tried it out a couple times and it is working perfect. I now have the fun to test this some more!

I marked it as a WIP, as I used a Gottlieb target as a starting point, and I think I am going to open up the back of the Spring loop, so that it is easier to connect the spring when it is in place (like the original had).

I ordered a spool of red as well, which once that comes in, I am going to print some spares.

Anyway, thought I would share a link to the thingiverse site for it: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5151387

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Hey everyone,

Been a few weeks since I last looked at my Sharpshooter as I had someone locally cleaning up and servicing the board. Now that I've had that done I'm looking at the connections between the back box and the machine to see if it might be something there, and there's definitely at least one connection that if you jostle causes the machine to "reboot", I put that in quotes because the machine isn't fully booting to begin with. I've tried cleaning up these connections which doesn't seem to be doing the job, but I'm starting to think this might be above my skill set.

Are these connectors something I should be looking into replacing if it doesn't seem like cleaning them up is doing the trick?

The issue really began when I disconnected the head to move it into my basement, so it seems really likely that's where the problem is.

Is there a recommended place to buy replacements?

The MPU only needs the connection from the power supply in order to boot. The connectors between the backbox and the cabinet would not be the cause. Yes, they are prone to corrosion and can cause problems, but a non-booting MPU isn't one of them.
How many flashes do you get from the LED on the MPU?

It wasn't long after testing, I broke yet another of the original drop targets

To preserve what I had left, and to play without worrying about any more breaking, I went ahead and printed out two complete sets.
After the couple of minor revisions, I uploaded the latest drop target STL. So far they have been working great!

Same link as before: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5151387

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Are these compatible with a FDM printer?

Yep. I have Qidi Tech 1, which is a FDM. I have only made these using ABS fwiw (Qidi is completely enclosed)

A single flash.

Any cpu boards available yet?

I wish

Can you check the voltages at each of the test points on the MPU?

Probably the biggest thing I've learned so far in my pinball journey is that I am an audio visual learner, not a text learner. Though I appreciate how thorough the guide is the fact that it is text only really leaves me struggling to follow in most cases, and I can't seem to find any good videos on doing this unfortunately. If one exists I would love to see it, but otherwise I feel I'm getting to the point where I'm going to have to either involve a professional or let this go to someone a bit more experienced. It's disappointing, but I also know when something is above my head.

So I'm thinking this could be part of my problem. It looks like one of my fuses definitely broke and I didn't notice. I want to make sure I get the correct replacement. It looks like it's the second from the left, which on the diagram inside my machine is marked as +24V and 10A. I'd like to make 100% certain I get the right replacement so I don't muck anything up. I've attached pictures here as well.

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Just had a plastic flipper break, talked a bit with Captainhook about it, I saw that apparently classic Stern flipper bats should work as well as the big Gottlieb flipper plastics. Are these identical, direct replacements or will they require modifications or look obviously different?

Looks like you're into something. According to Clay's Game Plan repair guide:

The second MPU LED flash indicates the zero cross over pulse is OK. If no second MPU LED flash, look for 25 volts DC at MPU connector J1 pin 3, usually because of a bad 25 volt rectifier board fuse for the coil voltage. A bad U10 (Z80CTC) can cause no second LED flash. Also check chips U3 (74LS04) and U2 (LM339). Last check for a failed U11 (Z80), U6/U7 (6551), U12/U13/U26 (Game ROMs), or U17 (8255 PIA).

Looks like a 10 amp AGC/fast-blow fuse. Might have luck finding them at the local auto parts store or hardware store. Just make sure you don't get 10 amp MDL/slow-blow fuses. If the new fuse blows, I'd check the 24v bridge rectifier on the power supply unit next.

Just picked up a Lizard. Going to print the drop targets. Thanks for the link to the file. Currently it has DE drop targets with spacers to allow for the longer length DE targets and has Grand Lizard stickers.
Does anyone have a scan of the pterodactyl stickers for the drop targets?
Tahnks

I was lucky enough that when I looked through the parts the previous owner had actually included inside the coin box, an entire new set of fuses was among them. I'm now up and running.

I still need to do all kinds of maintenance to get this thing up to snuff, but all my concern about the connections between the back box and the play field was chasing the wrong issue. It was 100% that fuse and somehow I didn't see it when I gave them a look initially.

This group is awesome and thank you so much for the assistance thus far!
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Can anyone advise on pinballlife What slipper bats I would want for a Sharpshooter?

They look different from all my other machines so I'm really not sure. My left one came cracked.

A3994-5 or A-3994-5

Same as classic stern.

That part number got me a Bally bat. Hmmmm

Hey everybody, I'm hoping you can help me out with this flipper wiring problem I'm having.
I just finished up a Cycloped restoration, but I have almost no power to the upper flipper. It "flicks" kind of feebly, but has no hold at all.
I thought maybe the wiring had been done in correctly and I was following someone else's bad work when I did the reassembly of everything rather than thinking through it on my own, but...I looked back at my Agents 777 teardwn photos from a few years ago and it was set up just the same way.

I'm hoping someone on this forum can see what is wrong here from these photos. All I can think of is perhaps I have the wire going from the lower flipper lug to the EOS soldered to the wrong part of the switch? I tried following classic Stern's way of wiring, but theirs are different (and more sensible!)

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It looks like it just may be a new switch w/some coating and a bit of a gap on the leaf switch. Red arrows added to your pic to what I am talking about. I would first try taking a non-glossy business card or 1000+ grit sandpaper, sandwich between the switch, and clean off to get the contacts flush. Then adjust the switch so that it is tight when closed and try that.

Wiring-wise, this looks correct. I don't have my Cyclopes set up currently (I rotate the lineup), but can do that Sunday evening if you need some pics.

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Nah, this isn’t my first rodeo with installing flippers/adjusting EOS switches. Lots of strong contact, gapped properly.
My only guess is that I have a wire positioned wrong, so I would definitely welcome some pics of another GP flipper setup. Any game with an upper flipper should be set up the same, but if Cyclopes is available, great.
Thanks in advance for the assist!

Ok awesome. So I think I see your problem. I took a pic of the schematic from Captain Hook before leaving for out of town today ...

Your green wires on the lower flipper are reversed.

The green wire from the anode side of the diode should go to the shared contacts of the leaf switches.

If these are backwards, I can see the power for the top flipper running through the hold coil of the bottom..which would make it act weak.

I can still set up Cyclopes Sunday evening and send pics if you like as well.
-Jeremy

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Bingo!
I should have figured this out on my own/I need to learn how to properly read a schematic.
Upper flipper is now both flipping and holding correctly. Check!

Now I need to get the damn game to play according to its rule set. There's an Echo Lake board in here now, which I know is notorious for not working on Cyclopes - something about the use of a single chip instead of the two ROM setup that the original boards used.
Well, the owner of the machine brought me an Andromeda board and a pair of Cyclopes ROMS to put on it. According to him, the board worked in Andromeda.
But, when I plugged it in to Cyclopes, I got almost nothing. No score displays and no playfield GI. Only the backbox GI. Other than that, nothing.

I noticed that the U26 socket is empty. I haven't worked on a ton of these machines, but I see from the PinRepair.com site that Sharpshooter has a chip here.
Is that my issue??

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Sharpshooter has three 2716 EPROM chips or three mask programmed ROM's. It looks like your board has two 2732 EPROM chips. The board has to be strapped to match the ROM type and size of the chips for the proper addressing. If not the code won't run and you probably won't get any flashes on the MPU. Would have to see how the board is strapped/wired now then look to see how it should be configured for a pair of 2732 chips.

Not sure who made the EPROM chips but it would be good to dump them to see if they match what they are supposed to and confirm which is which.

I would expect that the Echo Lake board could be made to work ok. Would probably need to examine the ROM in it now to see how it is laid out. Maybe burn a fresh ROM for that and if needed a couple hacks on the address lines, etc to ensure it will with with cyclopes.

Awesome on the flipper!

Cyclopes uses 3 2732s (12k total), so a SharpShooter board would not work since that is typically strapped for 2716s. You are missing a rom though.

There are at least two revisions out there, but the zip file on ipdb has two of the room revisions in it.

I have an echo lake board in another machine (I think Andromeda but can't remember lol). I can create a rom for Cyclopes and try it out in mine, and then send you a rom after testing it.

If the MPU-2 was out of a Sharpshooter is should work if the board is properly strapped and jumpers set for the appropriate EPROM type.

Would also need to check the J4 connector to see if it has the extra jumper installed in order to drive the 7th digit on the displays. Easy to add if needed.

Completely agree...just saying that Cyclopes uses 3 2732s vs 3 2716s in case if one was just going off of rom count

Do you happen to know what exactly doesn't work right with the Echo Lake board in Cyclopes?

I went ahead and burnt a rom (with the Dec 85 version) for the Echo Lake board I have and put in the game. Booted up fine and played a game. I will try it out this week, but didn't know if there was something specific that didn't work.

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Here´s someone that claims they can source new Gameplan MPUs : https://www.flippermarkt.de/community/forum/threads/gameplan-mpu-1-und-2-boards.243016/

https://pinballbasement.com/collections/gameplan/products/gameplan-type-2-mpu

"Testing in progress, orders may be placed. Board to ship in 5 business days."

Be sure to set your expectations accordingly:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/grand-opening-of-the-pinball-basement-check-it-out/page/3

Ah, this is good information. If the mods to the board are simple, I can probably manage it, just would need clear instructions. I'm set up to solder and de-solder competently.

The new chips came from Action Pinball, if that information is useful.

I've heard only that the EL Cyclopes board is terminally buggy. I even spoke to the guy from Echo Lake on the phone, he basically has thrown up his hands on it.

The board came from an Andromeda. Was working in that machine.

Except for some differences in the reset section it is my understanding that all the MPU-2 boards are basically the same. Just jumpered differently for different ROM/EPROM configurations to accommodate different chip types and sizes. The way the board is setup for the different ROM chips is listed on the schematics but isn't really intuitive and often entails cutting traces and installing jumpers.

The only other difference I was aware of is the addition of a jumper on later games to support the 7-digit displays. But that can be added to older boards if needed.

I've never had any of the later games but have done a lot of research on the MPU boards in my efforts to revive s couple Sharpshooter games. Have also fixed a couple MPU's for others.

Numerous glitches. When drop targets are down, the spot targets behind them do not register hits. The captive ball switch doesn't register hits.
There's just no working ruleset, it's all scrambled. I have run the switch test and every switch registers in test.

If the board doesn't work in Cyclopes then the first check I would try if I had an actual working Cyclopes board and an Echo Lake board is to connect the Fluke 9010A with Z-80 pod and do a whole scan of the entire ROM range on both boards to see if they match, If not then there is a Code/ROM/addressing issue that needs to be sorted out and should be fixable. Maybe his design doesn't factor in the extra code space and acts like it doesn't exist. These MPU-2 boards will in some cases pass the ROM tests even if the last ROM isn't seen properly. I ran into that first hand when repairing an MPU-2 and made the process take longer since incorrectly assumed the ROM's were ok since it passed the ROM test. Actually the ROM's were ok. There was a trace rotted through that was open for the last ROM. If the Echo lake board just isn't handling the extra code and addressing then a small hack/update should be able to fix it.

Assuming the ROM's all match as seen by the Z-80 chip and the memory map is fine then I would compare the schematics of both boards side by side to look for differences or anything missing on the Echo Lake board. The the other MPU-2 boards work in Cyclopes then there is no reason that the other board can't be made to work too.

This is over my head. I'm up for learning how to do it, but will need a cross reference or some frther hand-holding.
I don't know if the owner has the original Cyclopes board, I can see if he still has it somewhere.

Thanks I will do a test with the glass off to see if I have the same issue.

Yeah I was thinking along the same lines. I have a Fluke 90 /z80 tester ,similar to the 9010a w/z80 pod, that I can do the comparison to the orig mpu-2 and now the echo lake w/Cyclopes rom.

I wasn't sure how the echo lake board was handling the additional address space of a 27128 that is uses, so I doubled the image by copying itself twice. Still doesn't use the last 8k of space, but thought any relative jumps could beyond the 2FFF program address space.

I will test later and report back!

Sounds good. Will be interesting to hear what you find. Sounds like you have the right tools to do it. I don't have to pull out the Fluke often but it can really help in cases like this. It helped me find the issues on a troublesome repair relating to that last ROM on the last board I fixed.

Using the Fluke to verify what ROM image the Z-80 sees can help. Maybe it can be fixed by burning a new ROM. Or buy burning a new ROM and altering an address like or two that go to it if it was never setup to accommodate a large enough ROM image. If that is the issue then I don't think it would be too hard to come up with a fix.