I am looking for a battery replacement option for a Foxy Lady. Any leads are appreciated.

Pinwiki nor the manual address the battery, other than 3.6v.

Just keep the new one off the board! Your best option is probably a remote battery holder using 3 AA non rechargeable batteries with a 1n5817 diode inline to prevent them from charging. That is a common option used on Gottlieb, early Bally, and Stern that used rechargeable batteries originally.

I use cordless phone batteries myself time to time on a remote wire.

Yeah I do the exact same thing as Robotworkshop does. I use a 4 AA holder, and solder a diode in the fourth position ( to make it a 3 cell).

Diode type is not much of a big deal since current draw is low. I always use a 1n4001 or whatever I have (same as a clamping diode on a solenoid).

Just take the battery off, and have the cathode (stripe side) of the diode to the "battery +" terminal on the mpu
. Negative side of the battery box to the - side.

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You are correct. The Bally Grey legs are the closest. GamePlan had the single rib on the edge. Maybe a slightly different color grey. Tbh, I have been buying the pinball life black Williams legs. Yeah they are dual ribbed (uggghhh) , but I think they look way better. They are 28 1/2 as well.

https://www.pinballlife.com/bally-gray-legs-set-of-4.html

Link to the black Williams legs too:
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-black-legs-set-of-4.html

I was player 1. Wife was player 2. Bittersweet lol

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Lol! That is close !!!

From pictures I thought the Bally may look original. My game had one dark gray leg and three black legs. One of the black legs wasn't stamped right as the leg must have shifted to one side before it was pressed and the top is off center. Figured it was best to just get a fresh set.

Since these are for a Western themed Sharp Shooter I think I am going with these:

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-chocolate-burgundy-legs-set-of-4.html

and use black levelers and black leg bolts. Should go well with the theme.

Oh nice ! Totally agree with that !

Having an issue on my Andromeda that has me baffled...when I turn the machine on the center-upper pop-bumper locks on. I have checked the switch and it is gaped properly and working fine. I had a spare SDU so I popped it in and it didn't correct the issue...my schematics are not very specific...which driver/transistor do I need to be looking at? Is it on on the SDU or the MPU? Any information is appreciated.

The schematic says it's transistor Q10 on the SDU board.

Make sure to check/replace the diode on the coil and the wiring orientation on it, it sounds like it might be damaging the Q10 transistor on the SDU.
The yellow-black wire on the coil should be on the lug that the banded side of the diode is.

Thank you, I appreciate your assistance...

No worries,
The playfield schematics show the driver transistors for the coils (and driver SCRs for the feature lamps).
The Andromeda schematics on IPDB are missing the SDU but presuming it's the same as Sharp Shooter II, the circuit design is basically a copy of Ballys solenoid driver board. Let us know if you need further help diagnosing the drive circuit at the SDU.

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I have this one...

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What a blessing it is to have original clear schematics. Feels like the online Gameplan schematics were mostly scanned in low quality split pages 25 years ago.

Does anyone have a working MPU1 (for Star trip) for sale/trade ?
I am about to give up on repairing the one I have that is eaten away by battery corrosion.
Echo lake won't make new ones and the one guy who is working on it doesn't know when/if his will be available ...

New to the club as I acquired a Super Nova recently.
First 2 of many questions.
1. Need one of these. (Pic 1)
2. What should this be connected to? All the.
connections are color coded. (Pic 2)

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Does your game actually need that 2nd relay? Were there any machines that did use it?

That's the question I'm hoping to get answered.
I do believe so. There's a picture in the gallery of the board which has 2 relay.
SwampLife did a replacement on a board.
Was hoping someone had an extra to just plug and play.

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According to Clays guide for Game Plan games, Super Nova is one of only 2 games they made that use the 2nd relay socket.

From the guide: Gameplan has two relay sockets on the solenoid driver board. One SE9301 transistor (#19) drives one relay which engages the flippers during play. Another SE9301 transistor (#9) drives another relay socket which is usually not used (but certainly could be used as a GI relay or some other type of drive relay). Gameplan was thinking ahead, and only used the second relay socket on Andromeda (additonal playfield GI lights) and Super Nova (for the roulette wheel).

Thanks Frunch...
That makes sense. The game will boot and I get 6 blinks on the MPU board and sound effects but my playfield is dead with the exception of couple of lights.

You'll need to find the other end of that connector you posted on one of the above pics. It's gotta be buried somewhere between the cab and backbox, hopefully you'll find it in there. Hopefully that will bring your playfield to life...

I got my Super Nova mostly booting. But it seems to randomly lock up. Any ideas on what I should be looking at?

Check all of the connectors and headers for signs of corrosion or poor contact. Especially from the power supply to the mpu.

New ones are cheap enough. I think this one would work.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=LB4H-24DS

So, I've got it down to one specific switch. It is one of the switches that feed into the SCU-1 board on the underside of the playfield. I cleaned the contacts, reflowed the solder and replaced the lm339. None of it seems to matter. Once that switch is hit, the game stops, except that hitting it again will act like it is looping through settings or something. Eventually, what looks like a solenoid firing pattern will start if I keep pressing it.
Any ideas?

The behavior is what you would expect if you were pressing the diagnostic switch inside the coin door. What happens when you press that switch? Have the connectors been repinned at some time? If so, I suppose it is possible a couple of circuits were inadvertently swapped. Do you have the schematics for this machine?

I have had a chance to look at the schematics. Exactly what switch is causing the problem? Is it the 5000 outlane switches or the "N" rollover? If so, I would check the diodes connected to those switches, and the diode on the test switch inside the coin door.

Working on my Super Nova.
Anybody that has one could you check to see where that black plug goes?
I've looked high and low and do not see a spot.
Thinking maybe an extra, maybe they used same harness for multi games.

Can you post a photo of, or tell us the colors of, the wires on that black plug?

I tried to make a video of the odd behavior:

That's the behavior when pushing that target repeatedly.

The more i think about it, I'm pretty sure i ran into the same thing on my sharpshooter years back. I think the molex plug was coming from the cabinet, and there was no mate for it in the head or anywhere else. I remember speculating it could have been wiring for a chime box or something else...as you said, it was likely a wiring harness used for numerous games, and some simply didn't use the additional wiring.

Disconnect the connector to the coin door. Does the problem persist?

My Sharpshooter does not have that connector, but the schematics for Super Nova show one with the circuits labeled as "spare".

Does anyone happen to have any extra Sharpshooter drop targets? I could use a couple. Maybe one of you have converted all of your drops to one of the replacement style so they match and no longer need the original ones. If you have any to spare (even one) please send a PM

Thanks!

Finally was able to get my Sharpshooter setup. I'm really happy with the set of new Chocolate/burgundy legs that I bought from Pinball life. Used black bolts, washers, protectors, and leg levelers. Still need to clean/wax the playfield, install a replacement I picked up for the broken plastic, fix a post, install the new rubber rings. Looking forward to playing this one. Cabinet could use some very minor touch ups at some point.

This game had a few 455 blinker bulbs behind the backglass. But I think a couple are in the wrong spot. Did this originally have some blinker bulbs installed and if so what locations? Not sure if these came that way from the factory or if someone added them.

The only hold up was the original MPU was pretty bad. Once I finish building my MPU board I can start trying it out. If all goes well may be able to start tests over the weekend.

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Looks in pretty good condition!

I've been making some progress on my SharpShooter and trying to understand all the differences from other manufactures machines that I've normally worked on. At the moment I am looking at the switch matrix section.

From what I can see it looks like GamePlan put the diodes in backwards compared to everyone else when you look at how they are connected to the strobe lines. Did they really do that? I haven't traced them out with the meter yet to confirm but have read their documentation and schematics aren't always accurate.

Yeah GamePlan uses a 74154 for driving the switch matrix, so it is "Active Low" for the strobes. Basically when the strobe is active, it will be close to 0 volts, and the rest will be at 5 volts. I know other mfrs used an Active High instead (I think old Bally SS with a 6821).

Schematic is correct for the direction of the diodes. The cathode should be on the strobe wire, and the anode is toward the switch/return. The diode doesn't bring the return to 0 volts of course due to the drop (0.6v), but it is fed into a comparator to compensate and drive the 8255.

Hope that helps.

Thank You! That is just to confirmation I was looking for. I've done a bunch of work on Williams, Bally, Stern, Gottlieb, Data East, etc. This is the first time I really had to dig into GamePlan.

Umm, Gottlieb and Williams are also active low strobes aren't they?

Those were quotes from two separate posts. Gottlieb are wired active low but didn't use the lm339. Just trying to get familiar with the Gameplan boards and wiring.

Is the Game plan spinner and bracket the same as the other manufactures? I have an extra new Bally/Stern spinner that I can use if it's the same. Just need to get the metal bracket, link, and maybe switch.

Anyone have a spare?

I can see the bracket is definitely different from what I’m used to.

It seems there may be two different variations on the original Sharpshooter cabinet artwork. Looking at two of them and although one had been touched up it appears the original stencils may have been different. On the front by the shooter rod one has a 5 sided star and another a 6 sided star. On the sides one cabinet has more red in the gun and the other mostly yellow and black. I don't think either cabinet was repainted so maybe they had more than one shop painting cabinets.

I just got an original flyer off eBay and it looks like the star on the front of the cabinet for Sharpshooter has a third variation for the star by the plunger. I wonder how many variations there were.

On the two sharpshooter games I have both have two playfield lights on all the time. One is the 50,000 lane on the left and the other is the top of the loop on the right. Are all the sharpshooter games like this?

That is normal. They are tied into the GI.

Is anyone familiar with the way the 7-Digit displays are driven on the later Gameplan machines? I have a Sharpshooter which has 6 digit displays and wanted to see how they drive 7-digit displays and where the 7th digital line comes from. I'm working on a new MPU for my SharpShooter and would like to add support for the 7 digit displays so it can support other later games as well.

Any hints or tips would be appreciated!

I just had a quick look at the Cyclops schematics.
It says digit 6 (the 7th digit) comes from MPU J4 pin 9 and goes to the display connectors on pin 8.