(Topic ID: 71772)

Game Plan owners club. Welcome!


By SpOoKyRiDeS

4 years ago



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  • 263 posts
  • 58 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 days ago by Playdium
  • Topic is favorited by 23 Pinsiders

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There are 264 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 6.
#1 4 years ago

Thought it was about time to show some love for these forgotten pins. Iv'e owned Coney Island as well as Pinball Lizard in the past and combined two Sharpshooters into one, which I still currently have and will be buried in when I pass on. Anyhow... I would love to add an Andromeda to my collection or a Cyclopes as well! I'd also like to see and play the Loc Ness pin too! These guys churned out some way different pins. ~SpOoKy

#2 4 years ago

I used to enjoy playing sharpshooter when it was first released. Would love to buy one some day.

1 month later
#3 4 years ago

Finally found a replacement power driver board for my Sharpshooter, so I am back up and running after nearly a year of darkness. Yahoo!!!

#4 4 years ago

S..W..E..E..T! Have fun!~SpOoKy

#5 4 years ago

Just scanned, optimized, OCRd and uploaded the OCI parts manual to IPDB. We'll see how long it takes Jay to post it live. Since many parts are shared with Sharpshooter it might help some folks. If you need a copy before it gets posted feel free to PM me and I'll email it to you.

BTW I also found an error in the parts catalog. On page 23 in the parts listing for the SDU, for item 13 it says 4.7k ohm resistor. In fact this should be a 3.3k ohm resistor.

viperrwk

#6 4 years ago

Nice! Thanks for doing this!~SpOoKy

1 month later
#7 4 years ago

Just picked up a agent 777. Not currently working but in really good shape.

#8 4 years ago

Cool looking and playing pin that doesn't come up for sale often. Congrats!~SpOoKy

#9 4 years ago

As you can tell by my game collection, I love GamePlan
I brought Global Warfare to the Louisville Show last year for Roger Sharpe to play, and it went crazy when I turned it on. It is perfectly fine now (and will be at the Louisville show this weekend, and I will be bringing to the Chicago Expo this year for hopefully Roger to play it!).

What ended up being the problem is nuts. A staple that held the GI lighting wire actually went through and touched the post that connects to the spinner! When the spinner spun, there was enough conduction to send some AC goodness through the switch matrix! Good thing the MPU uses some 339's for processing the switch matrix I guess.
Anyway, after hours of trying to figure out the problem, it was the easiest fix. One pair of pliers to remove one staple.

#10 4 years ago

WOW! What a collection and Andromeda to boot! Thanks for sharing!~SpOoKy

#11 4 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

Just scanned, optimized, OCRd and uploaded the OCI parts manual to IPDB. We'll see how long it takes Jay to post it live. Since many parts are shared with Sharpshooter it might help some folks. If you need a copy before it gets posted feel free to PM me and I'll email it to you.
BTW I also found an error in the parts catalog. On page 23 in the parts listing for the SDU, for item 13 it says 4.7k ohm resistor. In fact this should be a 3.3k ohm resistor.
viperrwk

I had forgotten I posted this here. This is live now on IPDB: http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=553

viperrwk

#12 4 years ago

I love my Game Plan games. Always on the lookout for more. Currently halfway to getting all the production games.

#13 4 years ago

I bought a pretty nice Andromeda (just needs cab work) a few months ago. I'd been looking for one since I played it at PAPA last April. Luckily, one fell in my lap last November. Took a 12 hour round trip ride to get it, but very glad I did! Unfortunately, I have one leg that is mismatched. If anyone has a Game Plan leg and can help me out, I'd be very appreciative.

Andromeda.jpg
#14 4 years ago

Andromeda rocks! Thee crown jewel of GP pins! Schertz: your collection is awesome! Thanks for sharing!~SpOoKy

#15 4 years ago

I own an Old Coney Island. Fun and fast playing game. Backglass, coin door, cabinet and all original boards are all in 9.5 condition. The playfield has very little wear, maybe an 8.5 Several pins have come and gone but this one still remains. It may not be popular in this pinball community, but fortunately I really don't care. It seems to get quite a bit of play when guests come over. John

#16 4 years ago
Quoted from SpOoKyRiDeS:

Andromeda rocks! Thee crown jewel of GP pins! Schertz: your collection is awesome! Thanks for sharing!~Spooky

I agree. Andromeda rocks. It is one of my favorite pins of all time.

1 month later
#17 4 years ago

FYI -
I just uploaded to IPDB an OCR-searchable, 600 dpi, 11"x17" scan of the complete (AFAIK) schematics for OCI. I have proposed to Jay that this file REPLACE the existing .ZIP file with schematics in the OCI entry since in addition to having the same documents that are in the .ZIP, it also contains the schematics for the insert panel, cabinet wiring, SSU-3 sound board and solenoids. The best part is none of them are broken into two 8.5x11 pages you have to piece together! This should help both OCI and SS owners since schematically, they are virtually identical. Sharpshooter uses SSU-2 sound board which has some slightly different resistors and capacitors on the board to shape the sounds to the game. The insert panel schematic actually says "Mod. 130 - Sharp Shooter" on it! If someone needs a copy before it goes live on the site just PM me and I can send it to you.

viperrwk

1 month later
#18 4 years ago

I recently bought a Sharpshooter as part of a lot of mostly EM's. I just dug the look of it but I figured I'd sell it. It quickly became a popular staple in the house though. It won't likely be leaving anytime soon. Does anyone know if the pop bumper tops are exclusively Gameplan? I dug through the pile of options on Pinball Resource and could not find the exact ones (1000 when lit, but without the word points on top). Mine are all there, but the paint has become very worn. Its so thin even lightly wiping them takes color off. Oddly enough as well, all available pics show blue caps, but the flyer shows red. I assume that got changed.

#19 4 years ago

Pm sent: ~SpOoKy

#20 4 years ago

There is a super nice fully restored Sharpshooter in Wilmington, NC for sale for $1100. I know the guy selling it and he does top notch work. If interested send a PM to TopJimmyCooks.

#21 4 years ago

Every pic of an actual game has blue pb caps, although the flyer shows red. I was never able to find NOS or repro "1000 when lit" caps and I looked for a while. Fortunately they're very stout caps and not easy to break and most are ivory now but not yellow or brown. IF you're really into it, you can mask and respray the triangles and hand touch up the hot stamped text.

1 month later
#22 4 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

FYI -
I just uploaded to IPDB an OCR-searchable, 600 dpi, 11"x17" scan of the complete (AFAIK) schematics for OCI. I have proposed to Jay that this file REPLACE the existing .ZIP file with schematics in the OCI entry since in addition to having the same documents that are in the .ZIP, it also contains the schematics for the insert panel, cabinet wiring, SSU-3 sound board and solenoids. The best part is none of them are broken into two 8.5x11 pages you have to piece together! This should help both OCI and SS owners since schematically, they are virtually identical. Sharpshooter uses SSU-2 sound board which has some slightly different resistors and capacitors on the board to shape the sounds to the game. The insert panel schematic actually says "Mod. 130 - Sharp Shooter" on it! If someone needs a copy before it goes live on the site just PM me and I can send it to you.
viperrwk

Update:
Jay has pushed this live on the site:

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/553/Game_Plan_1979_Old_Coney_Island_Schematics_OCR_searchable_paginated.pdf

viperrwk

1 month later
#23 4 years ago

Has anyone ever done a full flipper assembly swap with modern available parts? I'm thinking reuse the gameplan coils but swap in a Williams or Stern base plate and assembly? Would that work/fit?

3 weeks later
#24 4 years ago

Well my left flipper mech broke today. Didnt get a chance to lift up the PF but it looks like the coil stop broke away. Anyone have an answer to my idea of using another mfg assembly with the gameplan coils?

#25 4 years ago

I can tell you that the coil stops are the same on all GP mechs, so you can use the coil stop from the sling or kickout to replace the flipper stop.

If you don't have a spare let me know - I think I have an extra I can send you.

I'll also try to mic up Williams and GP flipper coils to see if it would fit.

viperrwk

#26 4 years ago
Quoted from catboxer:

Well my left flipper mech broke today. Didnt get a chance to lift up the PF but it looks like the coil stop broke away. Anyone have an answer to my idea of using another mfg assembly with the gameplan coils?

When I shop out a game I keep all the leftover parts that were replaced and separate them into separate containers. When I got my Cyclopes the flipper coil stops were bad. I went into my "jar-o-parts" and pulled out some classic Stern coil stops (copper looking ones) and installed those. Works great.

#27 4 years ago

Someone please explain the appeal of Sharpshooter. Is there something about the gameplay or rules that makes it fun? Always seemed like an outlier to me. Funky sounds and clunky feel to me, but maybe I've missed the point all these years?

#28 4 years ago

Seems that the flippers are my Andromeda are firing to strong. I'm getting a lot of hard bounce backs against the pf glass and it is concerning to me. I've raised the pitch a bit in an effort to slow it down some, but to no avail. Looking over the machine, I noticed that the flippers the previous owner replaced were the typically Williams thickness (no-logo white). Is this the typical style flipper used in this machine, or should I be using more of an early SS Bally flipper instead? Secondly, would this help in my effort to reduce the power of my flippers?

#29 4 years ago

Early SS Bally flipper bats are "correct". Also - I used to have an Andromeda with totally blown out flipper parts. I swapped bally SS parts (non-linear mechs), baseplates and flipper coils and they worked/played great.

#30 4 years ago

GP only used two different coils for the flippers.

The 50002 was used on the cocktail machines and was the lower power flipper coil. The 50008 was used on the upright machines and was the higher power coil. Obviously, Andromeda used the 50008 which is a 22-375/30-800 on the windings. If you have a different coil there that could further explain your strong flippers.

viperrwk

#31 4 years ago

Sounds like it's time to throw in some new Bally flipper mechs. Will the 5008 coil work in them, or is their a similar Bally coil? Does anyone sell them prebuilt Bally mechs like Pinball life does for various Williams games?

#32 4 years ago

Gameplan coils are bigger than Bally, so they won't fit. You'd need to put in a whole new baseplate etc etc. I just had a bunch lying around. Not sure where to buy them now.

I would have tried to keep the gameplan parts in there if I could but the links were totally sloppy/blown out (terribly trampoline effect!) as were the stops/plungers so it just made sense to use what I had.

The full classic stern assembly would *probably* do the trick, but i haven't actually tried it.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2411

#33 4 years ago

I used the

Bally AQ-25-500/34-4500 Flipper Coil

when I converted mine.

#34 4 years ago
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:

Someone please explain the appeal of Sharpshooter. Is there something about the gameplay or rules that makes it fun? Always seemed like an outlier to me. Funky sounds and clunky feel to me, but maybe I've missed the point all these years?

I think, for a bunch of us, it reminds us of the days when arcades like Space Port, Time Out and Dream Machine all had banks of pins. In 1979 you would always see a Flash as well as Sharp Shooter and a bunch of sterns. For me, I've always loved the artwork, and the design, while simple has those two lower pops that wreck havoc, constantly changing what's going on. The drops are fun to drop. Its a good value pin to own dollar wise. ~SpOoKy

#35 4 years ago

Thanks for the input on the flipper mechs guys. I will give it a go.

#36 4 years ago
Quoted from noahpdavis:

Gameplan coils are bigger than Bally, so they won't fit. You'd need to put in a whole new baseplate etc etc. I just had a bunch lying around. Not sure where to buy them now.
I would have tried to keep the gameplan parts in there if I could but the links were totally sloppy/blown out (terribly trampoline effect!) as were the stops/plungers so it just made sense to use what I had.
The full classic stern assembly would *probably* do the trick, but i haven't actually tried it.
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2411

I'd be willing to give the Stern a try. Would the GP coils fit in the Stern?

#37 4 years ago

Nope - stern/ballys are basically the same size. I think ballys were slightly shorter which is why they used a spring washer and stern didn't.

Stern/Bally coils should work fine in the game though if you wire them correctly (at least my bally coils did).

#38 4 years ago

Hm, maybe I'll pick up the Stern parts and put in the Bally coil you recommended. Unless someone knows a comparable stern coil...

#39 4 years ago

J-25-500/34-4500 is the same strength as the standard bally flipper coil of the era. Not sure what would be the closest strength to the gameplan flippers (they felt comparable to met though.)

1 week later
#40 3 years ago

I found this post from Ken Layton suggesting they should be converted to classic stern Gen 2, or System 11s while using the GP coils. Hmm.. https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/rec.games.pinball/7wX8j593gaw

2 weeks later
#41 3 years ago

Figured I might as well throw a video and picture of my Cyclopes in here.

2014-08-23 23.29.52.jpg

#42 3 years ago

I Need Your Help to Help You

Dear Game Plan owners -
I am in need of your help for the next installment of my shotgun guide - the SDU-1. I have been scouring schematics and looking at boards and manuals and one of the things I am looking to put together is a table which will help you to easily identify where the problem is when a solenoid goes bad. Unfortunately, I do not own every Game Plan machine made nor have access to the documentation for every one. Additionally, GP made it very difficult because their solenoid numbering and power transistor use changed from game to game (with very little consistency.) For example, did you know the knocker was always hooked to Q1 on the SDU (when a game was equipped with a knocker) but could be numbered 07, 11 or even 020 in the solenoid test depending upon the game? And that early uprights used Q6 for the outhole kicker but later models used Q14? Knowing all this and more will make it easier when troubleshooting and swapping boards as well as replacing components.

Anyway, if you own ANY GP game and would like to help, there are three things you can do:

1 - go to your machine and run the solenoid test. As it runs, make note of the solenoid number on the display and which solenoid is actually firing. Then compile the list and post it. For example:

Model 110 cocktail (Real, Rio, Black Velvet, etc.)
010 - outhole
020 - knocker
030 - chime d etc etc

being sure to note if a number comes up and nothing happens.

2 - if it's still in your backbox, take a photo of the solenoid and switch identification page that is stapled to your insert board and post it with your test results. Or if you can't/won't/don't know how to run the solenoid test, please consider posting a photo of this page anyway. Even if you don't have a manual this will help you in identifying which solenoids are firing during the test.

3 - lastly, if you have any documentation for your machine and it's not already posted on IPDB, please consider scanning and posting the info to Jay for inclusion in the database, especially things like playfield and backbox schematics and parts listings. These oftentimes have revision notes on them and these can be quite useful in tracking down important changes that were made along the way. And I'd be willing to take a copy by email as well since Jay takes a while to get things posted.

Thanks in advance for any help you can render and look forward to the next installment soon.

viperrwk

#43 3 years ago

I've still got that sheet stapeled in the back box. Will send you a pic viper, and run the test, first chance i get. least I can do for all your help to others~Spooks

#44 3 years ago

Might as well join the club

1005141254.jpg
#45 3 years ago

And I believe Cyclopes used the most power transistors on the SDU-1 of any GP machine - 17 of the 19 in total.

viperrwk

#46 3 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

And I believe Cyclopes used the most power transistors on the SDU-1 of any GP machine - 17 of the 19 in total.
viperrwk

When I get mine working, I would be happy to help. Hopefully soon, just waiting on parts.

#47 3 years ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:

When I get mine working, I would be happy to help. Hopefully soon, just waiting on parts.

If you have the solenoid sheet in the backbox a pic will help.

viperrwk

#48 3 years ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:

Might as well join the club

And not a bad club at all, nice looking Cyclopes! ~Spooks

1005141254.jpg 232 KB

#50 3 years ago

Sharpshooter did not have a knocker, correct?

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