Hello, everyone I have a sharpshooter II i'm working on with zero LED flashes right now. No corrosion damage at all on the board. Its setup to take 2716s and I've verified that is done correctly. All voltages on the rectifier board are correct, but still no flash. The GI comes on, the sound card boots up with LED flashing but MPU does nothing. I'm getting ready to shotgun the ICs I guess, at least the z80cpu, ctc, PIA and ROMs.

My question is hopefully a simple one. Is the Z80 and Z80A compatible? Can I put the Z80A cpu in these boards? Oh, I guess I'll test the LED too!

Ok, here's where I'm at with my SharpShooter 2 board.

I've verified my Z80, Z80CTC, PIA, 6810, both 6551s and 74154 in a working Sharpshooter pin. I put my chips in the SharpShooter pin and they all worked.

I've replaced all .1uf caps too.

I've checked my voltages they are as follows:

PSU Voltages
TP1 - 12.79
TP2 - 5.10
TP3 - 6.64
TP4 - 29.41

MPU Voltages
TP1 - 5.07
TP2 - 12.7
TP3 - 0.04
TP4 - 5.27
TP5 - 1.9
TP6 - 5.03

U11 pin 26 is 5.26v with pin turned on, this should mean reset section is working

pinrepair says TP5 should be 2.1v or suspect U3, TP5 voltage is 1.9v. Low enough to stop boot? I've socketed U3 but have to order parts.

Anyone have experience with these ROMS? http://gameplanpinball.com/roms.shtml. Downloading and unpacking the ROMs shows Roms 730a, 730b, 730c but no mention to what position they go in. Should this be 730a = U12, 730b = U13, 730c = U26? Or 730a = U26, 730b = U13, 730c = U12 ? I'll burn these and try both combinations. Would wrong ROMS, either the correct ROMs or sharp shooter 1 ROMS cause the board to not blink even once?

I still have no MPU LED blinks...

What else should I check?

BTW, I get random sounds every few minutes and a single 0 digit is lit.

Thanks
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Ok, I found the answer to this so I'll share just in case anyone needs the info; For SharpShooter 2, U12 is a, U13 is b and U26 is c

Got the new U3 and we are in business!

One last thing. I wasn't sure what this jumper was for, so while redoing my board I removed it as I never saw this before and it wasn't anything to do with jumpering for 2716s. Coney Island and SharpShooter didn't have one either. Once I got my board working, I only had 6 digit scores. put it back on and all 7 digits are scoring. So this jumper allows the 7th digit scoring.

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I can get you pictures of coin door wiring, let me know what you'd like to see.

Flickr link in your PM. Can post it here if others are interested.

Folks I need your help. I'm repairing an MPU-2 rev.1 and I'm only getting one LED blink.

Here's what I'm finding:
TP1=5v - good
TP2=12.98v - good
TP3=5v - bad - should be 0v according to Clays guide
TP4=0v - bad - should be 5v according to Clays guide
TP5=2.1v - good
TP6=4.9v - good

Seems TP3 and TP4 voltages are reversed?

Here's what I've done.

1. Neutralized any battery corrosion damage - the board was very clean and had minimal battery corrosion
2. Replaced all .1uf caps - they had white haze on them, likely battery damage
3. Replaced .01 timing cap - just because
4. Replaced Qa, Qb, Qc 3904s and Qd 4403 - cheap and easy
5. Replaced U2, U3, U5 - cheap and easy, all sockets and connections check out
6. Replaced U9 - slight battery corrosion, better safe than sorry, socket and connections check
7. Replaced U17 CPU socket - slight battery corrosion, better safe than sorry, socket and connections check
8. Replaced U26 socket - slight battery corrosion
9. Repaired fried trace from DIP Switch 8 diode to DIP Switch 32 diode
10. Replaced any suspect 4148 diode on DIP Switches
11. Tested all z80, 8255, 6551Ram, 6810 in a known working board in a different working game. All chips check out ok
12. Replaced 100 OHM 1 W resistor - it was a bit brown but spec'd ok on DMM, replaced anyway
13. Installed 2032 battery holder and blocking diode in (mistaken) assumption board was easy fix! Got ahead of myself!
14. Replaced U14 socket and 74154

Seems the major problem is TP3 and TP4. I feel like I'm missing something simple but I just can't think of it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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Yep, I've read through there about a million times I think! =)

All chips mentioned in that guide have been tested in another working board in a working pin. This non working board is being tested in that same working pin. The rectifiers and PSU in that working pin are spot on...

I've not tried new ROMs although these are original and can stop the second flash, I don't think they would effect the TP3 and TP4 voltage would they? I can't test the OE roms in the other working board because it's strapped for 2716s. I have burned new 2716s for this non working board but I typically don't like modifying a board until I get it running. I guess I'll prep the board and try the new ROMs tonight. I'll report back.

Keep the ideas coming... I've hit a wall unless the roms work!