(Topic ID: 73533)

Game Plan Board Repairs - Shotgun Guides w Pix


By viperrwk

6 years ago



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  • 233 posts
  • 51 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 months ago by Daniel
  • Topic is favorited by 73 Pinsiders

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There are 233 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 5.
#201 2 years ago
Quoted from Chisel:

Anyone have experience with these ROMS? http://gameplanpinball.com/roms.shtml. Downloading and unpacking the ROMs shows Roms 730a, 730b, 730c but no mention to what position they go in. Should this be 730a = U12, 730b = U13, 730c = U26? Or 730a = U26, 730b = U13, 730c = U12 ?

Ok, I found the answer to this so I'll share just in case anyone needs the info; For SharpShooter 2, U12 is a, U13 is b and U26 is c

1 week later
#202 1 year ago
Quoted from Chisel:

pinrepair says TP5 should be 2.1v or suspect U3, TP5 voltage is 1.9v. Low enough to stop boot? I've socketed U3 but have to order parts.[quoted image]

Got the new U3 and we are in business!

One last thing. I wasn't sure what this jumper was for, so while redoing my board I removed it as I never saw this before and it wasn't anything to do with jumpering for 2716s. Coney Island and SharpShooter didn't have one either. Once I got my board working, I only had 6 digit scores. put it back on and all 7 digits are scoring. So this jumper allows the 7th digit scoring.

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1 week later
#203 1 year ago
Quoted from Chisel:

Ok, here's where I'm at with my SharpShooter 2 board.
I've verified my Z80, Z80CTC, PIA, 6810, both 6551s and 74154 in a working Sharpshooter pin. I put my chips in the SharpShooter pin and they all worked.
I've replaced all .1uf caps too.
I've checked my voltages they are as follows:
PSU Voltages
TP1 - 12.79
TP2 - 5.10
TP3 - 6.64
TP4 - 29.41
MPU Voltages
TP1 - 5.07
TP2 - 12.7
TP3 - 0.04
TP4 - 5.27
TP5 - 1.9
TP6 - 5.03
U11 pin 26 is 5.26v with pin turned on, this should mean reset section is working
pinrepair says TP5 should be 2.1v or suspect U3, TP5 voltage is 1.9v. Low enough to stop boot? I've socketed U3 but have to order parts.
Anyone have experience with these ROMS? http://gameplanpinball.com/roms.shtml. Downloading and unpacking the ROMs shows Roms 730a, 730b, 730c but no mention to what position they go in. Should this be 730a = U12, 730b = U13, 730c = U26? Or 730a = U26, 730b = U13, 730c = U12 ? I'll burn these and try both combinations. Would wrong ROMS, either the correct ROMs or sharp shooter 1 ROMS cause the board to not blink even once?
I still have no MPU LED blinks...
What else should I check?
BTW, I get random sounds every few minutes and a single 0 digit is lit.
Thanks
[quoted image]

Did you check that the LED bulb on the board is good by manually feeding low dc voltage to it?

#204 1 year ago
Quoted from wizard_mode:

Did you check that the LED bulb on the board is good by manually feeding low dc voltage to it?

NM, just read your last post, lol. Nice work...

4 months later
#205 1 year ago

Just set up my Sharp Shooter II after about 3 years of nothing. I've got one of the new mpus in it from Jim.

At power on the mpu led flashes twice, is out for about a sec, then flashes twice again, repeating. The GI is on, player 1 display shows 4 in the singles digit, the credit display shows a 0 in the singles digit, and player 4 shows a 1 in the singles digit.

Any ideas?

Maybe after sitting unplugged for 3 years the backup lithium is dead on the mpu and theres a bunch of garbage in there that can't be changed till the back up is changed and it comes up in attract mode?

All fuses are good on the power supply. I have good 5v, 12v, and 24v, but the 7v is low at 3.3v. This is just for the feature lights so I wouldn't think it would stop it from booting, would it?

#206 1 year ago

Update on the Sharp Shooter II:

With only J1 plugged into the mpu, the mpu will boot with 6 flashes and the attract mode lights will start moving around the play field. I did a power off/plug in one more connector to the mpu/power back on to see if anything specific was affecting the mpu from booting with the 6 flashes. The board will boot with the 6 flashes with all of the connectors plugged in except for the display card edge connector. I then powered off and unplugged all the displays except for player 1 and powered back on, the board boots with 6 flashes. Then repeated power off/plug in one more display/power on to see if it would boot. When I got to plugging in the 4th player display the board would not give the 6 flashes and went back to the 2 flashes a pause and 2 more flashes repeating again. So, for now, all connectors are plugged in except for the player 4 display itself.

I did notice that the sound board was not booting all the way either. The led on the sound board was locked on solid with no flashes at power up. There are 2 PIA's on the sound board so I swapped them and booted up again. The led on the sound board in the back box then flashed 6 times and stopped. It should flash 8 times if fully booting properly. I've got some extra PIA's here so I'll swap out the 6821 and U5 and see if I get all of the flashes.

#207 1 year ago

Update on the Sharp Shooter II again:

Major progress on this one! Note that all displays are still currently UNPLUGGED. If any displays are plugged in, the game does not operate.

Starting with the sound board, which is now fully working, I swapped out the PIA at U5 and now get all 8 flashes and a start up tune at power up. Perfect!

Now with the MPU (all 6 flashes) and sound board (all 8 flashes) both fully booting, the game comes up in attract mode and plays the power up tune. I can now start a game as well, but remember, all of this is only when the displays are unplugged.

The game is set to free play via the dip switch #8 option.

No ball kicked out and no playfield solenoids worked, but the flippers do work. The power supply fuse is still good. I peeked under the playfield and there is no fuse in the fuse holder by the flippers for the solenoids. After I installed the proper rated fuse and powered back on, all the playfield coils locked on immediately and the power supply fuse blew. Time for the circuit breakers! Installed a 10 amp circuit breaker on the PS (its a 2 lug circuit breaker with a blow fuse soldered to the lugs so you can clip it in a fuse clip and not rip through fuses while figuring out issues) and a 3 amp circuit breaker under the playfield. I changed U1, the sn74154n, on the solenoid driver board and powered the game back up. No coils locked on this time so I started a game. We are now playing a game!

Powered off and back on to open the coin door and go in to audit/test mode. Since the game doesn't work when the displays are plugged in, I just hit the button enough times to get through the audits and into the tests. In lamp test I changed all of the playfield lights under and above, and all of the lights are working correctly. The solenoid test was run, and all of the solenoids are working correctly.

Since the displays aren't connected, I can't see if all the switches are giving the right switch numbers, but when starting a game, all of the switches are working, meaning they all make a sound and probably are scoring. The game rules are all being followed and the correct lights are lighting.

The game is now fully playable without the displays plugged in.

I did notice that the coin door wiring is not right. The connector just inside the coin door for the coin door wiring on the cabinet side of the connector, some one soldered 2 of the wires together. There are 3 loose wires. The right coin drop switch has a diode attached to it still but no wires. The left coin drop switch has no diode or wires attached to it. I would think I should be able to look in my Old Coney Island! to figure out the proper wiring here, and I should be able to tell from the schematics what wires have been soldered together before the connector. I'm guessing it's someones free play hack.

So, down to this:

- correct the free play hack with the coin door wiring
- recheck the 7v test point on the power supply and replace the 7v bridge rectifier and/or the resistor inline on the power supply if need be
- figure out why plugging in any of the displays cause crazy issues and don't allow the game to be played

#208 1 year ago

Any one have any advice on the displays causing the game not to boot up fully? Every time I work on a game plan game all I hear is crickets.

#209 1 year ago

Do you get any flashes on the MPU led? Maybe check the 5v a the mpu with the displays hooked up? Viperrwk (OP) was a great help with Game Plan trouble shooting but he has been MIA for over 2 years now.

#210 1 year ago

All voltage is good in the game and has been verified at all boards and displays. I tested my old coney island display in the sharp shooter and the mpu is putting out the correct info to all dispalays. I womder wha happened that all the displays got damage to the chips or transistors on their boards. Have to test tbose and chamge whats bad. Should get it up and running good then.

#211 1 year ago

I did have at least one bad transistor on each of the 5 display boards on my Sharpshooter, definitely worth taking a closer look at those.

#212 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-up:

Update on the Sharp Shooter II again:
I did notice that the coin door wiring is not right. The connector just inside the coin door for the coin door wiring on the cabinet side of the connector, some one soldered 2 of the wires together. There are 3 loose wires. The right coin drop switch has a diode attached to it still but no wires. The left coin drop switch has no diode or wires attached to it. I would think I should be able to look in my Old Coney Island! to figure out the proper wiring here, and I should be able to tell from the schematics what wires have been soldered together before the connector. I'm guessing it's someones free play hack.
So, down to this:
- correct the free play hack with the coin door wiring
- recheck the 7v test point on the power supply and replace the 7v bridge rectifier and/or the resistor inline on the power supply if need be
- figure out why plugging in any of the displays cause crazy issues and don't allow the game to be played

I can get you pictures of coin door wiring, let me know what you'd like to see.

#213 1 year ago
Quoted from Chisel:

I can get you pictures of coin door wiring, let me know what you'd like to see.

That'd be great! Thanks!

#214 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-up:

That'd be great! Thanks!

Flickr link in your PM. Can post it here if others are interested.

3 weeks later
#215 1 year ago

I finished up my Sharp Shooter II this afternoon and got some solid game playing time in!

First the display issues: With them all pulled out I tested the transistors on all 5 display boards and they all tested good. Moved on to the 74LS379's and compared some readings to the working Old Coney Island displays and they were different, so I gave it a shot and replaced the 74LS379 on one of them and everything was working perfect in game and test mode. I ended up replacing that same chip on all 5 displays (adding a socket obviously) to fix all 5 of the faulty displays. I've got no idea what happened to this thing before I had it that would have taken out that chip on all 5 displays, but its all good now!

Here is the break down on the display issues in case someone has something similar happening:

Player 1 display - all digits out and shows nothing, replaced 74LS379
Player 2 display - all digits out and caused mpu to not boot fully, replaced 74LS379
Player 3 display - only showed 1's on all digits all the time, replaced 74LS379
Player 4 display - only showed 4's on all digits all the time, replaced 74LS379
ball/credit display - only showed 0's on all digits all the time, replaced 74LS379

After installing a new ball, rubbers, lights, doing some switch cleaning and adjustments, and cleaning up the drop target bank so it resets properly, we are good to go!

Another project done..... on to the next.

#216 1 year ago

Haven’t looked at this thread in a while, i remember how helpful Viperrwk was. Just curious, anybody know what happened to him?

#217 1 year ago

This was very helpful years ago!

#218 1 year ago
Quoted from indy5mike:

Haven’t looked at this thread in a while, i remember how helpful Viperrwk was. Just curious, anybody know what happened to him?

He was such a great asset. Not sure what happened to him. Hasn't been around since 2015.

#219 1 year ago

He posts a little bit on RGP, but not very often. It's unfortunate that he hasn't been around. His guides were and still are invaluable.

3 weeks later
#220 1 year ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

He posts a little bit on RGP, but not very often. It's unfortunate that he hasn't been around. His guides were and still are invaluable.

He helped me get my MPU2 repaired and running a while back. He mentioned that there were some issues with pinside people that drove him away. Not sure what he was referring to but I think I annoyed him with all of my questions. LOL

#221 1 year ago

Anyone know about putting a battery backup on a star trip? Mine has nothing at all (no sockets or holders) and I would prefer it keeps the high scores

2 weeks later
#223 1 year ago

thanks! it looks easy to do (hopefully)

#224 1 year ago
Quoted from mark532011:

thanks! it looks easy to do (hopefully)

Yes, super easy if you are any where near decent with an iron. I think I just had to drill a couple small holes in the board to mount the cap and then soldered to the back of the board using wire. Good luck!

3 weeks later
#225 1 year ago

Folks I need your help. I'm repairing an MPU-2 rev.1 and I'm only getting one LED blink.

Here's what I'm finding:
TP1=5v - good
TP2=12.98v - good
TP3=5v - bad - should be 0v according to Clays guide
TP4=0v - bad - should be 5v according to Clays guide
TP5=2.1v - good
TP6=4.9v - good

Seems TP3 and TP4 voltages are reversed?

Here's what I've done.

1. Neutralized any battery corrosion damage - the board was very clean and had minimal battery corrosion
2. Replaced all .1uf caps - they had white haze on them, likely battery damage
3. Replaced .01 timing cap - just because
4. Replaced Qa, Qb, Qc 3904s and Qd 4403 - cheap and easy
5. Replaced U2, U3, U5 - cheap and easy, all sockets and connections check out
6. Replaced U9 - slight battery corrosion, better safe than sorry, socket and connections check
7. Replaced U17 CPU socket - slight battery corrosion, better safe than sorry, socket and connections check
8. Replaced U26 socket - slight battery corrosion
9. Repaired fried trace from DIP Switch 8 diode to DIP Switch 32 diode
10. Replaced any suspect 4148 diode on DIP Switches
11. Tested all z80, 8255, 6551Ram, 6810 in a known working board in a different working game. All chips check out ok
12. Replaced 100 OHM 1 W resistor - it was a bit brown but spec'd ok on DMM, replaced anyway
13. Installed 2032 battery holder and blocking diode in (mistaken) assumption board was easy fix! Got ahead of myself!
14. Replaced U14 socket and 74154

Seems the major problem is TP3 and TP4. I feel like I'm missing something simple but I just can't think of it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

IMG_0611 (resized).jpg

#226 1 year ago

You said you're following Clay's guide. Have you looked through the section on the LED flashes? Here's what he says about what might be bad if you're not getting a second flash.

The second MPU LED flash indicates the zero cross over pulse is OK. If no second MPU LED flash, look for 25 volts DC at MPU connector J1 pin 3, usually because of a bad 25 volt rectifier board fuse for the coil voltage. A bad U10 (Z80CTC) can cause no second LED flash. Also check chips U3 (74LS04) and U2 (LM339). Last check for a failed U11 (Z80), U6/U7 (6551), U12/U13/U26 (Game ROMs), or U17 (8255 PIA)

Seems like you've done some of this but you didn't mention anything about the rectifier voltage and there are a few chips mentioned that you haven't replaced.

#227 1 year ago

Yep, I've read through there about a million times I think! =)

All chips mentioned in that guide have been tested in another working board in a working pin. This non working board is being tested in that same working pin. The rectifiers and PSU in that working pin are spot on...

I've not tried new ROMs although these are original and can stop the second flash, I don't think they would effect the TP3 and TP4 voltage would they? I can't test the OE roms in the other working board because it's strapped for 2716s. I have burned new 2716s for this non working board but I typically don't like modifying a board until I get it running. I guess I'll prep the board and try the new ROMs tonight. I'll report back.

Keep the ideas coming... I've hit a wall unless the roms work!

#228 1 year ago

On my Cyclopes, TP3 and TP4 did not have the correct voltage. My Z80 pin 25 had 5 volts but pin 26 did not. I shorted pin 25 to pin 26 and still no boot. I replaced all the rom sockets, put the original roms back in and that fixed it. Hopefully that is what your problem is.

#229 1 year ago

are you getting an oscillating clock reading?

3 months later
#230 1 year ago

Hi there GampePlan Wizards....

I could use some guidance here.
I have a Sharpshooter that has worked pretty fine until the other day.
Probably a coincidence.

I had a locked on fliper coil, fusee had also blown, and I could not find any trace of ill doings to the PCB,
its been standing for six months or so until I found time this week to sort it out. Sound has always been as expected,
tough some switches was miss-adjusted (on) so no scoring och chimes for those.

As I switched out the faulty solenoid due to improper gaping of EOS, (sorted that out to) I put a new fuse in and
played a couple of credits to check as it played as intended, and it did.

While at it, i decided to correctly adjust the switches around the playfield (small points and chimes along the outskirts of the playfield)
I also went ahead and replaced a handful of bad/going bad light sockets (GI) and adjusted the rollover switches in the horseshoe, as
they had become intermittent.

After this mini-shop-job i played a couple of credits to check the adjustments, the scoring and chimes where back on those switches
and the sound was as expected. But after a few credits the sound once in a while started acting up, odd sounds och some targets/starting
with one sound but ending with an other.

Id figured id check that out later, but yesterday as I was going to replace one of the light sockets in the horseshoe, and i played a credit beforehand and
I realized that all sounds where gone but chimes (uncertain if all chimes or just a few, I did not pay attention to that at the time). And the game did not
have the boot-rattle sound either.

I first restarted the game looking at the MPU LED - 6 flashes. OK...
I then took out the SSU-2 soundboard and did the bench test, everything sounds as I understand it as it should.

But still no boot sound, and only chimes (possibly not even all) in game.

Where to look first?

Cheers
//Micael

#231 1 year ago

Have you replaced any of the connectors between the head and cabinet? If I'm not mistaken, there's a 8 or 10-pin connector (possibly the blue one?) that connects wiring from the cpu down to the sound board. Might want to start there if the board checks out ok. Could also re-pin the connector at the mpu that runs to the aforementioned connector as well.

#232 1 year ago
Quoted from frunch:

Have you replaced any of the connectors between the head and cabinet? If I'm not mistaken, there's a 8 or 10-pin connector (possibly the blue one?) that connects wiring from the cpu down to the sound board. Might want to start there if the board checks out ok. Could also re-pin the connector at the mpu that runs to the aforementioned connector as well.

No i did not, but just before your tip I went back to the game and did the usual voodo. reseting all connectors to the board, pushed on the socketed ICs, and yanked and pushed a little on the connectors that connect the wire harnesses from the backbox to the cabinet.

And behold, I got the sounds back (for now) . currently the left issues is that one of the the rollovers in the horse shoe does not light (and i don't believe that theres voltage to the socket. And the ball in play lamp does not light and the onr right to that (can't remember what it lights up right now)

Cheers

4 months later
#233 8 months ago

hello friends i can use some help here im working on my second captain hook and i got it all working only thing left to do it to fix the right pop bumper it wont fire .
i replaced Q6 transistor with a tip122 i recplace ca3081 and dm74154n and nothing . i can ground this transistor and the coil fire so coils and wires from transistor to coils is good
i measure the wire that goes from mpu to driver board and seems good i also clean and check connectors and no luck
i couls use some help im not sure what else to test , i believe the problem is in the mpu
thank you guys

Daniel

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