ebay.com link: PRG 113 GQ 4X TrueUSB Programmer EPROM UV Eraser ADP 054 16 bit EPROM adapter

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gameplan_Repair#MPU_ROMs

I bought new game ROMS for my Sharpshooter from John Wart: thatpinballplace.com

Just picked up a Coney Island a few days ago. Started out with no sounds and lots of stuff not functioning. So, I went through all the boards as I do with any Williams/Bally/Stern games to see where the game is REALLY at. All the connectors were re-flowed, connector pins shined up, chips in sockets were removed for the legs to be cleaned up and reinstalled, connector pins were checked for broken/missing pins, checked for any loose/broken wires, and all boards were reinstalled. All sounds are now working. All solenoids are now working except the left kicker, which now works in solenoid test mode, but not in game mode, so I assume it is a switch issue, since there are 5 switches that don't work:

70 - coin switch 1
150 - left sling shot switch
230 - spinner switch for the pony ride
310 - drop target "I"
390 - 50k when lit switch (middle of right side)

Is there one chip or wire that is tied to all of these switches somehow? Maybe you've got some other ideas on this as well....

The MPU looks to be in good shape as you can tell the battery has been changed during it's life time and is not original or leaking, but was also removed during my procedures for obvious precautionary measures.

Also, at some point during my re-flowing or chip reinstalling, non of the feature lamps work now. Is there a single ground for all of these or somewhere specific I should look? They were all on before I went through and did the re-flowing and pin cleaning.

Other than the feature lamps going out, everything else got progressively better.

Any suggestions or information is appreciated.

Thanks!

In post #6 (and others) you mention Z80CTC and there is also a Z80MPU chip. Arcadechips.com has some Z80s. Which one(s) should I buy? http://www.arcadechips.com/advanced_search_result.php?search_in_description=1&keywords=z80&pfrom=&pto=&categories_id=&x=0&y=0

The MPU voltages at TP3 and TP4 are switched. I changed out most everything in the reset section. What did I screw up? What could cause them to be swapped.

Hmm...the parts list for the MPU just says the gameplan part number (26-40001N) and Z80.

Maybe viperrwk knows?

Swapped pins in the connector maybe?

[edit]: ah-ha---two CPUs are installed. A Z80 (at U11) and Z80 CTC (at U10). The CTC has a complete different (smaller) footprint and is technically a timer, rather than an actual CPU.

Swapped pins in the connector maybe?

Hmm, Maybe. I haven't touched the connectors yet but that doesn't mean someone else didn't though. It doesn't look as if any previous work was done in there but I will run it against the schematics. All the other TPs test correct though.

Would mounting one of the 2N3904s backwards do this? All mine are facing towards the capacitor so I think I have them correct.

I would almost think the transistor would go poof before conducting current the wrong way. Looking back at viperrwk's photos, all the transistors are facing towards the cap.

As for the connector, I would disconnect it and meter the pins just to be sure.

Are there any jumper wires on the front or back of the board?

I have one for this thread..about the watch dog circuitry.

My board LED flashes at 5Hz and wont boot. If I bend pin 13 of U2 out, the board boots just fine! I get 6 flashes in this case.

What can cause this? Ive literally tested ALL address and data lines. No shorts or open circuits! I have tested all chips and they are fine.

I have a MPU-2 and have correctly set it up for 2 2716 star trip roms.

Im baffled!

To make matter worse, Im looking at the reset section in the parts pages, and the resistor values are not the values I have in my board! However, my board has the same resistors you have posted on your MPUs.

Ok, the manual is incorrect. I have 3 boards that are the same. The discrepancy is in the resistors that hook the U1 and U2 tantulum caps to ground. The parts manual says 220k on these, but everything I own has 22k in them. The other discrepancy is in the tantulum caps. The manual has 1uF on all 3. However, my working atilla has two 10uF (labelled 106) caps on U1 and the U2 cap is 1uF (labelled 105).

I once heard that there were supposed to be two 1uF and a single 0.1uF. Either way, I put new caps on. They are all 1uF. The board is now flashing correctly, but it is an endless cycle, so it keeps going after 6 flashes. Im assuming this is because I used all 1uF caps. I think I narrowed it down to aging tantulum caps.....but now I need to know the correct values!

Any ideas?

Sorry I haven't replied earlier. Too busy to go look.

Yes. two one the back but I don't think they affect this. Could be wrong though.
#1 - Connects J4p9 to J3p9 and U22p12
#2 - Connects U12p21 (not used) to a small pad in between (Z80CPU) U11p39 and p40

This one is on the front and not sure if this is normal. It is not in the pics on here.
Connects U4p14 and U11p2 via the little pad just to the left of the #4 below the chip.

Mine is the same for the resistors. Shows 220k but I have three different values for each of the three "220k" resistors around U1 and U2 so I don't know which is correct. Are all these which are marked 7 on the board supposed to be 22k?

My tantalums are a 1uf (105) connected to U2p6 and p7 and two 10uF flanking the U1. U1p6 and p7 and U1p10 and p11.

Thanks! I used a 1uf and two 10uf. That was part of my problem. The other problem was that D2 between the ROMs was flaky. If you are in a pinch, electrolytic caps will work They are on mine. I think everything is working on mine but the displays. I need to read about this. The displays have everything lit, so its all 8s on everything. I know the ribbon connector at the cpu is a little worn. I am hoping that is it and not some chips on the MPU. Whats weird it that when I wiggle the ribbon connector plug on the MPU, some of the playfield lights turn off and on. Weird, but at least everything else is working.

Forceflow. Ok, I think I figured this crap out. Seems someone did the cuts and jumpering to use 2732s but not all of the cuts and jumpers were done. Crossing my fingers I get this right.

Still no blinks. Anyone know if the procedure for conversion to 2732s in the "This old Pinball repair guide" is correct?

Ok.....I had a coil that was locking and some strange light behavior when I powered the star trip on. It was not the driver board. It tested fine. When I unplug the ribbon connector to the driver board, no coils were locking. So, I figured it was the old 74139 chips. Replaced those and the problem persisted.

By chance I noticed this...when I unplug the display ribbon from the CPU, all of my problems are gone! That leaves me with 4 options:

1. Bad display chips on CPU distorting the cpu signals. . Unlikely....I replaced them.
2. Bad chips on the display shorting back to the CPU and distorting CPU signals. I doubt this is the issue as they appeared to work fine before.
3. The card edge connector has damage on 2 pins and they are shorting together. I patched them up. However, I get the same problem and I see no continuity between pins.
4. Star trip is MPU-1 and the CPU I am using is MPU-2, which has 2 display connectors. I assume the MPU can be used on system 1 and 2 displays?

Can anyone verify that their Z80 CPU chip has connectivity(or not) across pins 36 and 37? Mine does, even with the CPU and game ROM chips removed.

I am still struggling with the sound on my Star Trip. It plays ok, and the sound actually works correctly in that when you hit bumbers a sound plays. But there is a whine that begins immediately on power-on and rises in frequency after 15 seconds or so (something warming up?)

Per the early info ( https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/game-plan-mpu-repair-a-shotgun-guide-w-pix/page/2#post-1414092 ) I thought it might be Q3,10,13,14 on the SDU-1 board so I pulled all 4 and tested. But they are all good. The game plays perfectly if I disconnect the sound card.

Here is a short 30 sec (with annoying audio) video of what happens when I power it on:

Any thoughts on where to go next, could it be the sound card itself?

Does it make the same sounds when you change the plug to the other option of sound effects?

I have a coney island that the D on the playfield lights that say Island is not working. I thought it was probably the socket so i changed it and no change. I assume this light is controlled on the light board. Short of testing all the transistors is there a listing for the location?
Thanks

check Q39

Q39 it was. Also traced back to the resistor and it looked like it had been hit by something so I replaced it also and the D is working again! Thanks Slgerber!

I've been on a roll with getting machines going lately, Playboy, Night Rider, Superman, Eight Ball Deluxe, Black Sheep Squadron.... so I thought I would revisit this Old Coney Island! gem of mine sitting off to the side in the workshop.

The feature lights all work now. The fuses on the power board in the back box had some oxidation on the ends, so when I pulled them to check of they were still good, and they were, I buffed the ends off so they shine like new and reinstalled them. All the feature lights are now working. Yeah!

I've got a 74154 line decoder on the way to replace and see if the switch issues are resolved. I believe this handles all of the switch strobes....

There are 2 feature lights that are out, and 2 that are locked on. I'll have to address those on the lamp driver board. I've got a hand full of 2n5060's on the way to swap out the appropriate ones to hopefully wrap up those light issues as well.

On Old Coney Island I looked closely at the schematics tonight. All the switches that are out are on Line 6 (spinner, 25k, 50k w/lit, left slingshot). I've tested continuity from all non working switches on Line 6 back to the MPU connector and all tests out good. No shorts or issues with the yellow connector in between the play field and back box either. I swapped out the 74154 at U14 with no change prior to discovering the switches were all linked together as Line 6.

If you have a line of switches out, what is the usual culprit? I would guess either U23 or 17. Any feedback on this? Anyone else have a line of switches out?

As for the 4 feature lights that don't work properly, I replaced the 2n5060 associated with 3 of them on the lamp driver board. No change for any of the lights. I can't seem to find the 50k w/lit light anywhere on the schematics.....

All in all, nothing progressed other than learning all switches that aren't currently working are all on Line 6.

The game boots and plays every time with all flashes on the MPU, so I would assume that U17 is good..... correct?

My right slingshot is locked on. I replaced the tip102 on the sdu. It got fried. Did it again and fried another one. I really dont understand why.other than that my vegas cocktail works perfectly.

Does the coil have a bad diode? Does the coil give the correct resistance reading?

Is the coil shorted?

Funny I wrote this and had a sharpshooter in my basement for a few months not long ago.

Just picked up a sharp shooter ii and the board has the battery acid damage. Thanks for posting this tutorial on the MPU2 repairs I am probably in for. I also want to add the memory cap referenced in the pics above instead of another battery. I'll report back as I begin the diagnosing/repair. I need to serach pinside ofr battery acid damage cleanup 101. This should be interesting! The machine powers up and it even displayed 0s on all the displays which seemed normal to me. I did not yet check the MPU diagnostic. Just picked it up yesterday for a price I couldn't pass on!

Well i tested the diode its fine.the coil is 0.6 on the meter. It is burned up. But the other coil i have seems to stay on also. I looked at my sdu board. And it looks like the resistor beside the tip 102 transistor it looks dark in the middle. Could it be the resistor.

Let my try to remember back. You may want to check U2, U3, U4 on the driver board. I think I had 2 of these that were bad. I found some replacements from China but they were junk and all the solenoids would lock on, the same as if there were no chips installed. I put sockets in when I replaced the chips and tried it without the chips. I then bought a set of used-refurbished ( I think from Ed but I can't confirm) ones and they worked fine and solved that problem.

Oh no. Those chips are hard to find.

Vyper has a post that lets you bypass the bad section and use one that is not used on my game. Man its a lot of work though

Check with Ed at Great Plains, I think he sold me used ones. If not maybe he can steer you in the right direction, great guy.

How do I remove the battery acid from the mpu2? Mustard? Also, what mem cap do I get to replace the battery? Is it as simple as replacing the battery with a mem cap or is there more involved?

Vinegar, abrasive, and muscle.

Yes, Vinegar. I moved the batteries to the side of the backbox, added a blocking diode and just use Duracells.

Ok I got the battery removed and the leakage cleaned up. Now I guess I will put on a new battery device. Not sure if a mem cap would be better than a remote holder. Does a mem cap ever wear out and need to be replaced? What is the life of a mem cap when the machine is off? If the machine still will not start i plan to replace the socket chips as per earlier post as my first step in getting this baby to work. I cannot detect any spreading of leakage outside of the battery traces local the the negative terminal. Also, the socket chip legs all look nice and shiny except for the topmost one which is closest to the battery. And that one still measures as continuous across some of the legs. So I am hoping for the best.

Do you get 6 flashes on the LED when powering on?

I get 0 flashes when testing this board installed in the cabinet (I have no bench (yet)). I checked the PS rectifier board with the connectors removed and got the following readings (compared to Clay Harrel's guide):
TP1=16v (should be 14v)
TP2=5v (ok)
TP3=4v (should be 7v)
TP4=32v (should be 24v)

I started looking at the MPU2 board last night and got the following readings (compared to Clay's guide):
TP1=5v (ok)
TP2=12v (ok)
J1 pin3=32V (should be 24v)

I also looked at pin 26 on U11 and it measured low (~2v compared to 5v per Clay's guide). I tried jumping pins 25 and 26 to try to narrow the issue down to the reset section but no flashes resulted in the jump.

I will keep chugging along using this thread (very helpful) and Clay's guide. I cleaned the battery corrosion and it looks like it only spread to the U26 ROM chip right under the factory battery as installed in the cabinet. Could damage to this ROM chip cause any of these issues though? I thought flash 1 should happen if I at least get power to the board. I appreciate any further help / guidance that you guys can provide.

Thanks

I will try dumping homebrew on my next board project!

Hello, everyone I have a sharpshooter II i'm working on with zero LED flashes right now. No corrosion damage at all on the board. Its setup to take 2716s and I've verified that is done correctly. All voltages on the rectifier board are correct, but still no flash. The GI comes on, the sound card boots up with LED flashing but MPU does nothing. I'm getting ready to shotgun the ICs I guess, at least the z80cpu, ctc, PIA and ROMs.

My question is hopefully a simple one. Is the Z80 and Z80A compatible? Can I put the Z80A cpu in these boards? Oh, I guess I'll test the LED too!

Yep, they are compatible. The clock on the MPU is 2.4mhz and some change...so Z80, Z80A or B will be fine.

I've had a bad 74LS04 at U3 that would exhibit the same issue. Nothing but GI, no flashes on the CPU, nothing. Although it could be just about anything on those boards especially in reset section like QA, QB, QC, QD, etc.

Ok, here's where I'm at with my SharpShooter 2 board.

I've verified my Z80, Z80CTC, PIA, 6810, both 6551s and 74154 in a working Sharpshooter pin. I put my chips in the SharpShooter pin and they all worked.

I've replaced all .1uf caps too.

I've checked my voltages they are as follows:

PSU Voltages
TP1 - 12.79
TP2 - 5.10
TP3 - 6.64
TP4 - 29.41

MPU Voltages
TP1 - 5.07
TP2 - 12.7
TP3 - 0.04
TP4 - 5.27
TP5 - 1.9
TP6 - 5.03

U11 pin 26 is 5.26v with pin turned on, this should mean reset section is working

pinrepair says TP5 should be 2.1v or suspect U3, TP5 voltage is 1.9v. Low enough to stop boot? I've socketed U3 but have to order parts.

Anyone have experience with these ROMS? http://gameplanpinball.com/roms.shtml. Downloading and unpacking the ROMs shows Roms 730a, 730b, 730c but no mention to what position they go in. Should this be 730a = U12, 730b = U13, 730c = U26? Or 730a = U26, 730b = U13, 730c = U12 ? I'll burn these and try both combinations. Would wrong ROMS, either the correct ROMs or sharp shooter 1 ROMS cause the board to not blink even once?

I still have no MPU LED blinks...

What else should I check?

BTW, I get random sounds every few minutes and a single 0 digit is lit.

Thanks
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