(Topic ID: 73533)

Game Plan Board Repairs - Shotgun Guides w Pix

By viperrwk

5 years ago

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#51 5 years ago

Time to Stuff

All through holes and traces have been repaired, corrosion cleaned and neutralized, major components tested and new needed components acquired. Now it's time to stuff the board with all the new components.

sockets wcaps.jpg

Any ICs that were originally soldered to the board get replaced with a twin wipe socket. Some people prefer pin sockets and some prefer pin strips. Which one you use is up to you. The only thing is don't solder the new ICs directly to the board - install a socket first. I wound up socketing U9, U14, U16 & U20. Someone had previously socketed U1, U4, U5 and U19.

For the connector pins, standard .100 header strips should be used, specifically two 15 pin headers and four 9 pin headers.

You'll notice next to each header there is a "K" screened into the board. This marks where the keying pin goes. After installing each header, be sure to cut the pin next to the "K."

header w key wcaps.jpg

The only connector on the board that does not have the key pin marked is J7, just above the battery mount. Pin 3 is the key - be sure to cut this.

J7 key pin wcaps.jpg

A new 10uf electrolytic cap is installed and the reset daughterboard is reattached at the same time. Make sure you reattach the daughterboard like this:

1 - the lower lead of the 56k resistor to the positive lead of the 10uf cap
2 - the emitter of the rightmost 2n3904 transistor on the board to the negative lead of the 10uf cap (you will probably need a cut-off resistor lead to make this connection)
3 - the lower lead of the left-most 10k resistor to the lower lead of the 8.2k ohm resistor
4 - the upper lead of the 2.2k resistor to the cathode (banded end) of the 1n959B zener diode

You can use the same through holes for the cap as well as 1 & 2 above if that makes it easier for you to mount the board. Also remember, there's no need to replace the connector pins at J8 (connector next to U9) or the decoupling cap above it as this is for -5v which you shouldn't be using, unless your board has working TMS2716 EPROMs installed.

daughterfinal wcaps-678.jpg
#52 5 years ago

Nice write up bob. Never knew you liked board work THIS much. Glad your just down the road from me

See you tonight at the Pinball Store?


#53 5 years ago

I still find it so odd seeing PCBs with traces that aren't all running laser straight. Great writeup, lots of good information.

#54 5 years ago

Stuff the Rest
Other than the sockets at U10, U11, U13, the Z80, U15, and the diodes and resistors, all the other components in this photo have been replaced.

new components wcaps.jpg

The memory cap is installed. I solder wires to the leads of the cap and solder the other ends to the board - red to positive and black to negative. I mount the cap to the board with double sided tape. The solid core wire also helps to hold the cap in place.

new components 2 w caps.jpg

Here's the top half of the board with new resistors, capacitors, diodes and all the through holes repaired and broken traces jumped. Now the machine can be set to free play!

top finished.jpg

Remember what it looked like when I got it for comparison:

top repair.jpg

Here's the bottom finished:

bottom finished.jpg

Here's what it looked like when I started:

bottom repair.jpg

#55 5 years ago

The Finished Product

Here's a pic of the complete finished product.


Because I broke it down into pieces and attacked it one step at a time, replacing those components that I both knew and suspected were bad, I pretty much expected it to fire up and work the first time - and it did. There were no surprises. You can see the board work in this post if you missed it earlier:


I put it in a machine and left it on for 36 hours. After that time I was able to walk up to the machine, hit the start button and play a game, so I know the board is rock solid.

The Cost Breakdown, Parts & Time

Parts-wise, there were many components that needed to be replaced, the most expensive of which were the EPROMs, the PIA and the memory cap.

parts cost.jpg

In total this board cost about $33 in parts to repair as well as the associated shipping. Time-wise, I worked on this board on and off over a two month period squeezing in work on it when I could. In actual hours I'd have to guess it was probably somewhere between 10-12, especially given all the time I spent trying to figure out the ROMs (there's some misinformation out there because I don't think people looked at it as closely as I did up to now.) I'm sure there are people out there who could do this faster than me, perhaps could have diagnosed and replaced the parts faster than I could. That's ok. In the end I was happy to help 80spit get his GP machine back up and running. (And thanks to him for trusting me with his board.)

If you read this far I'll assume that either now or in the future you'll be trying to restore your own GP MPU. All I have to say is good luck and if you need any help, feel free to shoot me a note.


#56 5 years ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

Nice write up bob. Never knew you liked board work THIS much. Glad your just down the road from me
See you tonight at the Pinball Store?

Sadly, no.

Will be there in Jan though.


3 weeks later
#57 5 years ago

This is great. There is so little info about GamePlan machines. I picked up a very clean Super Nova from someone who no longer wanted it. Plugged it and and it gets 6 flashes and starts a game. Only problem is that no coils will fire, ball will not eject, and no points will score. It is so close to working it's killing me. I'm pretty sure that its not the MPU (it is very clean with no corrosion), so I'm guessing it's in the switch matrix or something like that. Any ideas....I would certainly appreciate any info. Thanks again for some great info!

#58 5 years ago

First thing to look at with no coils firing are the fuses. Second fuse in from the right on the power supply is a 10A fast blo fuse for the solenoids. If you replace it and it blows right away, have to look at the bridge rectifier on the power supply board (middle one) and make sure its ok.

If the fuse is good, you could have a problem on the solenoid board and/or the MPU board.

The switch matrix is on the MPU board. Switch strobes come from the 74154 at U14, as well as solenoid select. With no solenoids and no switch action this would be the chip I would suspect on the MPU board as being bad. Problem is even if the MPU board is working you could still be having a problem with the SDU as well.


#59 5 years ago

Thanks! I will try and check as much as I can with my limited knowledge. The coils will fire if I ground the corresponding driver transistor, so I know there it's not a power issue. If I disconnect the connector at J3 on the solenoid board and reconnect with the game on....it ejects the ball but then still nothing else works. For me, It might be better to send the board out if it's the U14 since it looks like that chip is soldered directly to the board. I see that you added a socket at that location before replacing the chip so it might be a bit scary for me but I have worked on a couple old Bally boards so I might give it a whirl. Wish me luck. (here's a pic of the board)

#61 5 years ago

Fantastic thread. I certainly appreciate the work you've done, even though I probably won't ever come across one of these machines in my lifetime. Still interesting, nonetheless.

#62 5 years ago
Quoted from Rnt2u:

Thanks! I will try and check as much as I can with my limited knowledge. The coils will fire if I ground the corresponding driver transistor, so I know there it's not a power issue. If I disconnect the connector at J3 on the solenoid board and reconnect with the game on....it ejects the ball but then still nothing else works. For me, It might be better to send the board out if it's the U14 since it looks like that chip is soldered directly to the board. I see that you added a socket at that location before replacing the chip so it might be a bit scary for me but I have worked on a couple old Bally boards so I might give it a whirl. Wish me luck. (here's a pic of the board)

CIMG2187.JPG 247 KB

And get rid of that battery ASAP please! Those leads are showing signs of corrosion and the outgassing of the battery is bad for the components on the board, esp the decoupling caps. You can go with a memory cap to keep the high scores.


#63 5 years ago
Quoted from thedefog:

Fantastic thread. I certainly appreciate the work you've done, even though I probably won't ever come across one of these machines in my lifetime. Still interesting, nonetheless.

You never know - one was for sale in your neck of the woods a couple of weeks ago. They usually go pretty cheap - best bang for buck SS machines out there.


#64 5 years ago

This should be a sticky.

#65 5 years ago
Quoted from thedefog:

Fantastic thread. I certainly appreciate the work you've done, even though I probably won't ever come across one of these machines in my lifetime. Still interesting, nonetheless.

There's a Sharp Shooter for $300 and a Coney Island, same price, both projects on the NJ craigslist.~SpOoKy

1 week later
#66 5 years ago

SSU-1 Overview and Testing

As I work through more Game Plan boards I'll try to document them and post info on it here. Eventually I'll get all this migrated to Pinwiki. Today we'll cover the SSU-1.

SSU Overview

Game Plan sound evolved over the years but always seemed to lag behind their competitors. Their first machines, model 110 cocktails (Real, Rio, Black Velvet, Camel Lights, Chuck-A-Luck and Foxy Lady) actually came with chime boxes that had four chimes for sound. Starting with model 120 (Family Fun, Star Trip), GP abandoned chime boxes in favor of solid state sound with their first sound board, SSU-1 where SSU stands for “Sound Simulator Unit.” This board uses a TI SN76477 “complex sound generator” and it was designed as a “plug-in” to the existing cabinet harness and interface to go from chimes to solid state sounds. This is evidenced by the fact that the cabinet schematics for model 120 and even model 140 (Vegas) cocktail machines are listed as being the same as the 110 cabinet schematics and the plug that the SSU-1 connects to has an extra wire, which is power for the solenoids in the chime box. When GP implemented the change from chimes to solid state sound, the only thing the factory did was instead of installing the chime box, they installed the SSU-1 and speaker. They also added an extra pair of wires from the power supply to deliver 12v unregulated power to the SSU. The SSU-1 is only capable of generating four different sounds. The three models of cocktail machines mentioned above (Family Fun, Star Trip and Vegas) are the only machines that used the SSU-1 sound board.

Game Plan’s first standup machine, Sharpshooter, used the SSU-2 sound board. This board used three different SN76477 chips on the board to expand on the number of sounds the machine generated. One 76477 is used to generate an explosion sound (“A” chip), another generates the gunshot, ricochet, horse, rattlesnake and howl sounds (“B” chip), and the third is used to generate chime sounds (“C” chip).

The next sound simulator board, SSU-3, is electronically very similar to the SSU-2 but physically is very different. The most noticeable difference is that the SSU-2 is a single-sided board (all traces run on the opposite side of the components) whereas the SSU-3 is a double-sided board. Two of the three SN76477 chips are socketed on the SSU-3 and the connectors are .156 headers as opposed to .100 headers on the SSU-2. There are some tweaks to the components on the SSU-3 which make the sounds slightly different for the next standup game, Old Coney Island. Changing the sounds made by the 76477 required changing resistors, capacitance and power fed to the chip. In comparison, Williams was using microprocessor controlled sound at this time and had much more flexibility in how they could make their games sound. It might be possible to use a SSU-3 in a Sharpshooter. Some components would need to be swapped on the board to get the sounds exactly right and modifications would need to be made to the wiring harness. I may examine this in more detail when I look at these boards.

The SSU-4 sound board in Super Nova utilized four SN76477 chips. After that GP finally went to microprocessor-controlled sound boards with the MSU-1 (Micro Sound Unit.)

Only the SSU-1 is driven by transistors on the solenoid board (SDU-1) where the MPU board selects which sounds to play, triggers the appropriate driver transistor on the SDU which in turn selects the sound to be played on the sound board. Sounds are tested during the solenoid test where each of the four sounds should be played once for each respective solenoid transistor. The other SSU boards are driven directly from the MPU board, freeing up solenoid transistors for other game functions. For SSU-1, each of the four sounds is triggered by one of four transistors on the SDU, specifically, Q3, Q10, Q12, Q13. These are connected from J2 on the SDU, to the 8 pin pigtail that hangs off the SSU-1. The pin mappings are as follows:

SDU J2 Pin -> SSU-1 pigtail Pin

2 (Q10, Red-Vio wire) -> 2
5 (Q12, Yel-Green wire) -> 5
6 (Q3, Brn-Blu wire) -> 3
7 (Q13, Grn-Blk wire) -> 4

For the other SSU boards, the outputs from MPU at J7 are combined and decoded by a 74154 on the SSU to determine which sound to play. I’ll look more closely at the SSU-2 and SSU-3 at a later date. This next set of posts will focus on the SSU-1.

#67 5 years ago

SSU-1 In Detail

Here’s a SSU-1. There are three connectors on this board. The top connector on the left is the output to the speaker which usually sits just above this board in the cabinet. The bottom connector on the left is the power input to this board. The third connector on the pigtail is the sound select that goes back to the SDU, the mappings of which are outlined above.

SSU1 w caps.jpg

There are two operator controls on this board. In the middle of the board is a 100k pot used to adjust the speaker volume. Next to it on the right is a two position jumper. The left position selects what GP calls “Sci Fi” sounds. The right position selects “calliope” sounds. The right position is the same as not having the jumper installed at all.

#68 5 years ago

Board Components – Not What the Schematics Say

There are a several things you need to note about the components on this board, namely what they are and how they differ from the schematics. I’ve learned this from looking at more than one instance of this board.

The parts listing indicates a 39K ohm resistor (item 24) used on the emitter of the 4403 input transistors on the board. These are actually 3.3K ohm parts.

The parts listing and schematics also list a 22k ohm resistor used on the base of the 4403s. These are actually 2.2k ohm parts.

difference1 w caps.jpg

There are four blue tantalum caps on this board. While the parts listing and schematics say these are 1uf 35v, in reality Game Plan used 10uf 16v parts.

difference2 w caps.jpg

The board uses four green .1uf disc capacitors which are the same type that are used on the MPU board. These can be problematic and can be replaced per what is outlined here: http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/game-plan-mpu-repair-a-shotgun-guide-w-pix#post-1309512

There are four electrolytic caps on this board: two 150uf, 25v (even though the schematic calls for 150uf, 15v, the parts listing calls for 25v which is correct and a better choice anyway), one 22uf, 16v and one 10uf, 16v. In my testing I’ve found that these caps are usually just in spec from an ESR perspective but like any 35 year old electrolytic capacitor could stand to be replaced. Ed @ GPE doesn’t sell the 150uf 25v caps – you can buy them at Mouser: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/MAL202136151E3/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMukHu%252bjC5l7YVhg0fTASGH5hzNtwT7KVlM%3d

The only component that is problematic on this board from a replacement standpoint (and all the Game Plan SSUs) is the SN76477 sound generator. (More info on SN76477 is here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Texas_Instruments_SN76477 ) As of this writing, Arcade Chips has this in stock for $14 (http://www.arcadechips.com/product_info.php?products_id=139) but if you have no sounds playing at all and believe the problem to be this chip, if you can’t get a replacement, you are out of luck.

#69 5 years ago

No Sounds – What to Do

If you don’t get any sounds either at machine startup or during the solenoid test or if you are having problems with the wrong sounds and no/wrong solenoids firing, you may have a problem with the SDU board and/or the MPU board. One of the first things to check is the green disc .01 uf cap on the MPU board. See this post on changing out the solenoid cap on the MPU board.

You may also have a problem with the LS379s on the MPU board at U20 and U21. You could also have an issue with the 74154 on the SDU board, the 3081s on the SDU board or the previously mentioned solenoid transistors themselves (Q3, Q10, Q12, Q13 for sound.) I’ll discuss the SDU in detail at another time.

Assuming that your MPU and SDU boards are functioning properly, the very first thing to do if you have no sounds playing is to try adjusting the volume control. Rotate the volume pot back and forth to the stops several times. Rotating it counter-clockwise all the way as you face the adjusting wheel (pulling it up when installed in the machine) will lower the volume to minimum. Rotating it clockwise as you face the disc will turn it to max. If it was already at max and this gets the sound back, you’ll need a new volume pot.

volume w caps.jpg

With the volume at max, hold your finger to the volume pot. You should get a hum out of the speaker. If you don’t, reseat all three connectors to the board and try again. If you still get no hum, either you have a problem with the power to the board, the amp or the speaker. If you get sound after reseating the connectors, you may have to repin them.

You can then check the speaker using a 9v battery.

If the speaker passes with this test you know the problem is either power or the amp.
If these don’t solve your problem, check the cable from J2 on the SDU to the SSU using the pin mappings above and make sure all four pins have continuity. You can check with the board installed by using the multimeter on one end to the appropriate pins of J2 and touching either lead of the resistors marked in the photo below.

test points w caps.jpg

At this point you should have pretty much narrowed down where the problem is. The remaining components on the board can be easily tested with a multimeter (diodes, transistors, resistors) using methods outlined on PinWiki. If you want to see a video that walks you through what was covered above, you can watch it here:

#70 5 years ago

Revised Parts Listing and Schematic

Here is a highlighted parts listing for the SSU-1. Replace the highlighted components below as follows:

Item 17 – replace with 10uf 16v tantalum cap
Item 18 – replace with 2.2K ohm ¼ watt resistor
Item 24 – replace with 3.3K ohm, ¼ watt resistor

ssu1 parts listing.jpg

And here is the schematic for the SSU-1.

ssu1 schematic.jpg

I hope someone finds this helpful. As always, feel free to shoot me questions.


#71 5 years ago

Thank you- I'm actually considering picking up a sharpshooter and this might be giving me confidence that there is enough information out there on these machines to get it working right. So far the only issues I could tell is that the pop and sling coils aren't working but the scoring seems to work. An LED unit is not working on one of the score displays either, but that is probe not huge. Cabinet is pretty bad and playfield is worn some, just trying to figure out if its worth more $100-150.

The boards actually look good and some modifications have been done, all the boards have tags from "peach tree" or something like that.

#72 5 years ago
Quoted from btw75:

Thank you- I'm actually considering picking up a sharpshooter and this might be giving me confidence that there is enough information out there on these machines to get it working right. So far the only issues I could tell is that the pop and sling coils aren't working but the scoring seems to work. An LED unit is not working on one of the score displays either, but that is probe not huge. Cabinet is pretty bad and playfield is worn some, just trying to figure out if its worth more $100-150.
The boards actually look good and some modifications have been done, all the boards have tags from "peach tree" or something like that.

Those sound simple enough. Steve Young sells replacement coils for Game Plan. If the boards are in good shape chances are it probably just needs the new coils.

The displays are also easy enough. Since they are low voltage, they can actually be repaired unlike a gas plasma display where you would have to replace the entire glass. Even then there's usually someone selling used displays on ebay pretty cheap if you don't want to bother repairing it.

You can have a lot of fun for less than $200 from what you are describing.


#73 5 years ago

Thanks for the great post! Time to dig the Sharpshooter II out of storage. It was working and then a cap blew up (literally) and I put it away for the lack repair guidance out in the ether.

1 month later
#74 5 years ago

Just a quick update here to say that Jay has posted the OCR-searchable OCI! parts catalog I posted a while back:


Hope people find it useful.


#75 5 years ago

What a superb thread viperrwk. I don't have one, but this type of resource for a very niche system is huge! Thanks for all the work, I'm sure I'll need it one day.

8 months later
#76 4 years ago

SDU-1 Overview and Testing

The SDU-1 or Solenoid Driver Unit, was the only solenoid board Game Plan ever used in its machines. It is arguably the most ubiquitous of boards within the GP boardset with the possible exception of the PSU-1 (power supply).

The board has four connectors on it, a 9 pin .100 connector (J4) which is the interface to the MPU, a 15 pin .156 connector (J3) which carries logic 5v to the board, unregulated 12v for the power transistors and 24v for the relays (more on these in a minute). There are two connectors to the power transistors on the board, J1 & J2. J1 is a 21 pin .156 connector and J2 is a 15 pin .156 connector. Some of the power transistors are connected to both J1 and J2, namely Q1-3, Q6, Q8, Q10-13 and Q18. The unique power transistors on J1 are Q4, Q5, Q7, Q9 (relay switched power) and Q14-17. The only unique driver transistor on J2 is Q19 (relay switched power).

Game Plan SDU-1 connectors

#77 4 years ago

SDU-1 Electrical Components
Electrically, the SDU-1 is *very* similar to the solenoid section of a Bally SDB; there is a 74154 four to sixteen line decoder to select which solenoid is to be fired and three CA3081s which are the pre-drivers for the power transistors on the board. Just like the Bally SDB, 15 of the power transistors, which are SE9301s or RCA 121s, (1-7, 10-17) are momentary and the other four (8, 9, 18, 19) are continuous. Two of the continuous power transistors, Q9 and Q19, are dedicated to driving the two board-mounted relays. Every GP machine has at least one relay mounted on the board as this is the flipper-enable relay and is ALWAYS driven by Q19. The other relay socket is most often empty. This relay was only used on Cyclopes and Andromeda (for flashing the GI lights) and Super Nova (for the space lab motor) and is ALWAYS driven by Q9

Two other continuous power transistors, Q8 and Q18 are also dedicated control transistors. By all accounts, the only one of these that was ever wired up in a production game was Q8 in Andromeda and Cyclopes. It doesn’t look like Q18 was ever used in any Game Plan game.

SDU-1 Electrical Components

It's interesting to note that the continuous power transistors on the Game Plan SDU are controlled directly by the 8255 PIA on the MPU board. Pin 6 of the PIA is wired through a 3.3k resistor, a 1n4004 diode to the base of the 9301 at Q9. Pin 7 takes the same path to Q19. Pin 5 takes the same path to Q18. And while Q8 is wired to pin 6 on J7 of the MPU, that pin is not connected to anything on the MPU itself. By comparison, the signal for the flipper enable relay on the Bally SDB goes through a pre-driver before getting to the power transistor.

#78 4 years ago

Repairing - Start with the Connectors

Since Game Plan didn’t have high voltages for the displays and regulated the 5v on the power supply, the SDU-1 was designed solely to handle the solenoids, ostensibly making this board much more robust than the Bally SDB. As a result, it’s pretty easy to diagnose and repair this board. In fact, you can pretty much get the board to work 100% without even applying power to it or putting it in the machine simply by testing the various components on the bench.

As with any old pinball board, the connectors should be carefully inspected and likely replaced, especially the .100 input connector at J4 as these are generally considered to be an Achilles heel for GP, have the plating worn off on them and potentially pins broken. The .156 connector pins are also prone to pitting and could probably stand to be replaced as well.

.156 connector at J1 - note it is in two pieces from the factory

.100 connector at J4

#79 4 years ago

Test the Other Components - Follow the Bally Repair Guide
Beyond the connectors, the chain for driving solenoids goes:
U1 – 74154
U2-U4 – CA3081 “pre-drivers”
Q1-Q19 and associated diodes/resistors – individual power transistors and support components.
To fix these, you can follow the troubleshooting and repair guides for Bally SDBs.

If the correct solenoid is not being selected in test/game and you are 100% sure the problem is not on the MPU, then the 74154 at U1 should be considered suspect. You can check it using this procedure:
You should get a reading of .4-.6 on all pins EXCEPT 18-19 (should be 0) and 24 (should be around .2-.3).

The three 3081s act as “pre-drivers” to the 9301 power transistors though in reality, they are not really pre-drivers but rather cutoff transistors. The 3081 is essentially an array of 7 NPN transistors and when any one of them is on, it grounds the 9301’s base connection and turn off the power transistor and solenoid. One difference between the Bally and Game Plan boards here is that Bally uses a 120 ohm 1/4w resistor on the collector side of the 3081 whereas Game Plan chose to use a 470 ohm 1/2w resistor. When a power transistor fails on a Bally, it could also take out the 120 ohm resistor (see vid's Bally guide). On a Game Plan SDU, I’ve yet to see a 470 ohm resistor fried.

What this means is that if a 3081 is missing or not working, the power transistor and solenoid will lock on, which is also what happens on the Bally SDB.

Since the 3081 is simply a collection of 7 NPN transistors with a common emitter, it can be tested just like any other NPN transistor using this procedure:


You can figure out how to test each transistor in the array by following the pinouts on the datasheet:

Or you can follow this table:

3081 Testing Table

Here you can see it in action.

Pins 13 and 14 on U2 test ok

Pins 11 and 12 on U2 are bad...

Compared to pins 11 and 12 on U3 which are ok

So in the photos above U2 is bad BUT it may not need to be replaced. More on this below.

#80 4 years ago

I have a bad 3081 - what are my options?

After testing the 3081s, you may find that one or more of the NPN transistors on it are bad. The 3081 is an obsolete part. As of this writing Ed @ GPE still sells them (pulls) but limits the purchases to a maximum of 10 units. But don’t fear – it’s possible you can live with a failed 3081 in a couple of different ways.

Option 1: Just like on the Bally SDB, not all the NPN transistors in each 3081 are used. Since there are a total of 21 transistors on the three 3081s and only 15 momentary power transistors are used, six are unused across U2, U3 & U4. Specifically:

U2 – 9/10
U3 – 2/3
U4 – 1/16. 2/3, 4/6 and 9/10

When you test a 3081, if one of the above pairs shows open (how they usually fail) don’t worry about it. You can leave it in place and ignore the fault. Confirming these transistors are good is important if you want to follow option 3 below.

Option 2: Not all momentary power transistors are used in every game. So you could have a bad transistor in a 3081 but its associated power transistor may not be used in the game the board is installed in. For example, in Sharpshooter, Sharpshooter II, Super Nova and Old Coney Island, seven of the momentary power transistors (Q1-Q3, Q10-Q13) are not used at all. This means if the associated 3081’s transistors have failed, it doesn’t matter to the operation of the game and you can simply ignore the fault and leave the 3081 in place. If you do, just be sure to note it somewhere in the event the board gets moved to a different machine in the future. For the board noted above, this board goes in an OCI, so the failure at U2 can be ignored.

To find out whether a particular power transistor/CA3081 combination is used in your game, see the troubleshooting chart later in this thread.

Option 3: Called the CARGPB way, you can rewire around a failed 3081 transistor to utilize one of the unused transistors on each of the 3081s. Of course it depends upon which one has failed, how many have failed and how many you have available and if you want to run wires across U2-U4. But it is an option.

Option 4: If you have no choice or don't want to jumper around a bad transistor in the 3081, you'll have to go buy a new one. As of this writing Ed does have some left as well as Bob Roberts (who says he has a few hundred left). If you have a GP or Bally machine, it would be a good idea to stock up on a few of these.

#81 4 years ago

SE9301s - Following the Typical Bally Failure Profile

Where Bally used the 100v SE9302 on its SDB, Game Plan instead opted for the 80v SE9301, ostensibly because it was cheaper and probably thought the 9302 overkill for their designs. This is the only other place, besides the 470 ohm 1/2w resistor on the 3081s, where the GP solenoid circuit differed from Bally. Game Plan also had a .0022 capacitor, 1N4004 and 330 ohm ¼ watt resistor on the 9301. When it fails, it does so just like a Bally as you can see from these photos where Q7 and Q16 have failed:

Q7 failure

Q16 failure

On this board it’s easy to see that Q7 and Q16 both need to be replaced along with their associated resistors and diodes. You don't really need a meter to see that. Amazingly, these test ok with the meter but given their condition, it’s just better to replace them. The best replacement for the 9301 is a TIP102. In general, you can follow Vid's Bally SDB repair guide for fixing the power transistors with the exception of needing to replace the 470 ohm resistor on the 3081s. Unless one tests bad, you can leave those alone. If you want to test the power transistors on the board you can follow the Bally procedure on PinWiki:


Here's the link to Vid’s Bally SDB guide:


Also, if any power transistors on the board have failed, it is imperative that before powering the machine back on, that you test the associated coil and diode on the playfield or you will run the risk of damaging the power transistor again. More on this later.

#82 4 years ago

Other Components on the SDU

There are a few other components on the SDU that should be mentioned for completeness.

All the diodes on the board are 1N4004, including the ones on the relays. Easy to test with a meter and replacements are easy to get.

There are a bunch of resistors: four for the 74154 (100k ohm), 15 for the 3081s (1.2k ohm), and four for the continuous solenoids (4.7k ohm) and one 100 ohm on the relay line for the optional relay. These should not give you any problems. Also on the relay line is a .1uf mylar cap. Again this shouldn't give you any problems.

Next to the 74154 there is a 10uf 16v axial electrolytic cap and a .01 ceramic disc cap for bypass solely for the 74154 chip as this is the only thing that uses 5v on the board. Every electrolytic I've tested here has been fine. Could you replace these two caps? Sure (probably the green ceramic disc cap if you had to choose which one). Do you need to? Probably not.

You could replace these two caps but it usually isn't necessary.

The Flipper Relay
The original flipper enable relay on the SDU (which is also the same relay used when the other relay socket is populated) is a Sigma 67R4-24DC or equivalent which is rated for 3A at 28VDC. As of this writing this relay can still be had in places such as ebay or other electronics clearance houses, albeit for a steep price, usually around $40.

If the relay does not function, your best bet is to get the NTE equivalent - R12-17D3-24. This is a 4PDT, 24VDC, 5A, 14 pin plug in relay. Newark Electronics sells it for $11.55. Though honestly, I've yet to run into a relay that doesn't work, even when the pins on the relay were shorted by solder splash.

Link to relay:


#83 4 years ago

Game Plan Solenoid Troubleshooting Table

Because there were a limited number of GP games and some games were electrically identical to others (Cocktail 110, Cocktail 120, Sharpshooter, Sharpshooter II, Old Coney Island), it’s easy to put all the solenoids in a table and determine which pre-driver/power transistor is at fault or which coils are suspect on a table.

This table is far from complete and is based mostly on looking at the schematics/manuals that I have on hand. I have no information for Captain Hook or Pinball Lizard so those rows have question marks. If you have a digital copy of the manual for these games and are willing to share them, I will update the table as appropriate.

The table has the SDU driver transistor in the top row and its associated pre-driver transistor in the second row. The third row details which pins on J1 and/or J2 the transistor is connected to.

Yellow indicates the continuous solenoids.

N/U indicates "Not Used".

?? on games other than Captain Hook and Pinball Lizard indicates that the documentation is conflicting or incomplete.

A number such as "020" or "07" indicate the number of that solenoid shown on the display when running the self-test. GP was pretty much all over the place with its solenoid numbering having little consistency with which solenoids were hooked to which particular power transistors or specific solenoids having a set number. For example, most GP games used Q6 for the outhole kicker and numbered the outhole "010" in self test. But later games moved it to Q14 and/or Q15 (multiball).

If you find any errors or can help fill in the blanks, feel free to PM me.

Game Plan Solenoid Table Part 1

Game Plan Solenoid Table Part 2

That's about it for the SDU-1. If you know your game and you know which coil is having a problem, with the above information, you should be able to easily track down and fix the problem. As always, if there are any questions or comments or anything I may have left out, feel free to PM me.


#84 4 years ago

You are a god!

#85 4 years ago

Vote for sticky!

#86 4 years ago

Better still, put it all on pinwiki in the Game Plan section.

#87 4 years ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

Better still, put it all on pinwiki in the Game Plan section.

Yes - I need to do this as it is the best place for this sort of info.

I wouldn't even endorse this thread for a sticky - not that many people care about GP to warrant that.

But Pinside is indexed pretty well by Google and lots of pinball-related searches point back to the forum so having this info here is a good thing IMHO.


#88 4 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

...not that many people care about GP to warrant that.

That is probably true but I just got a GP "Real" cocktail table pin fully breathing again and I am interested in keeping it that way. PinWiki is the right place for this great information.

2 months later
#89 4 years ago

Hi Bob,

Can you contact me please regarding my Sharpshooter MPU board? Thanks!!!

3 weeks later
#90 4 years ago

SSU-2, 3 and 4 Sound Boards Overview and Testing

Previously I covered testing the SSU-1 - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/game-plan-mpu-repair-a-shotgun-guide-w-pix/page/2#post-1414092 - sound board. As noted, the SSU-1 is a very simple board that replaced the chime box in cocktail machines and is driven directly by the transistors on the SDU board.


With its first standup machine Sharpshooter, Game Plan felt it needed to step up the sound to meet the needs of a bigger machine. There needed to be more sounds since there was much more to shoot at, and the sound needed to be louder to fill the bigger cabinet. So in comes the SSU-2 sound board.
Since the engineers had experience with TI’s complex sound generator already with the SSU-1, they simply chose to use more of these chips to generate more sounds, specifically three of them on the SSU-2. And since they already had worked with the LM380 amp for the output in the SSU-1, they chose to use two of them in a bridge configuration to get louder sound on the SSU-2. These factors likely drove the design decisions for the SSU-2 (as well as the -3 and -4). You can see the similarities between the SSU-2 and SSU-1.

SSU2 Major components

Where the SSU-1 had four simple chime sounds, you can see at the top of the board the same basic chime architecture used in the SSU-1 has doubled here. The SSU-2 makes 8 different chime sounds (handled by the 76477C) in addition to gun, snake, horse, howl, ricochet (handled by 76477B) and explosion (76477A) for a total of 14 different sounds altogether.

SSU2 Solder side

On the solder side of the board you can see some of Game Plan's infamous green disc decoupling capacitors soldered across two of the 76477s. This is how it was done from the factory in addition to the capacitors soldered directly to components on the component side of the board. This is not a hack, but normal since this is a single sided board.

#91 4 years ago


Since Game Plan’s next game after Sharpshooter was its twin sister Old Coney Island, the designers felt little need to change the sound all that much. And since changing sounds with the TI sound generator simply involved changing the support circuitry around the 76477, it was likely felt that the engineering effort to do so was too much to bother. As a result, there is little to distinguish electronically between the SSU-2 and SSU-3. Most notable however, is the physical difference between the two boards, specifically that the SSU-2 is a single sided board and the SSU-3 is a double sided board.

SSU3 Major components

SSU3 Solder side

Beyond being double sided, the other major difference between the boards is that the SSU-3 uses .156 connectors whereas the SSU-2 uses .100 connectors. And, for some reason, two of the sound generator chips are socketed on the SSU-3 (the explosion and sound effects specifically) – perhaps Game Plan discovered they were prone to failure. The SSU-2 is slightly larger overall (wider but shorter) but the vertical spacing on the mounting holes is the same (more on this later).
Electronically, there are minor component differences between the SSU-2 and SSU-3. Specifically, the snake sound on the SSU-2 is changed to a warble on the SSU-3. And the SSU-3 can do both a howl or whoop whereas the SSU-2 can only do a howl. These sound differences will be covered in the video linked below.

Lastly, the SSU-3 has some gates and a one shot on the input side of the 74154 for finer control of sound triggering.

#92 4 years ago


By the next upright game, Super Nova, which was released in the early part of 1980, Game Plan realized one of the things its machines were missing was background sound (remember Flash had already been out for over a year by this time.) Extending the design of the SSU, a fourth 76477 sound generator chip was added to the board to provide background sound. The SSU-4 has a jumper on it that selects whether or not to enable background sound and you’ll note this in the SSU4 schematic where one of the sound generators is labeled “CONSOUND” for “continuous sound”. A picture of a SSU-4 with the jumper set for continuous sound can be found here:


With the SSU-4, Game Plan reduced the number of chime sounds produced by the board to three since it needed some of the lines on the 74154 to control the background sound, added the ability to turn the background sound on or off depending upon the game state, and while it kept the explosion, warble and howl effects, swapped in effects for a siren, twang and spark.

After the SSU-4, Game Plan had pushed the architecture to its limits and if it wanted better sounding machines, it needed to move to microprocessor controlled sound, which it did with its next game, Pinball Lizard.

#93 4 years ago

Are these boards interchangable?

Williams was almost slavish in maintaining compatibility from machine to machine across all subsystems. You could take the sound board from a Contact (System 3 - May 1978) and with pretty much only a ROM change, use the same board in Algar (System 6A - September 1980) - the same design used for 28 months. By comparison, there was no compatibility whatsoever in the sound boards for Game Plan's first three upright games - produced within a span of 12 months.

Even though the sounds and how they were triggered are almost identical between Sharpshooter and Old Coney Island, physically, the dimensions of the two sound boards used are different as well as the connectors to wire into the harness.

SSU2 vs SSU3

You *could* use a SSU-2 in place of a SSU-3 and vice-versa IF you reverse one of the sound board mounting plates in the cabinet and repin the harness connector as appropriate to plug into the board.
The good news is that both machines use identical ROMs on the MPU and with the sounds triggered the same in both machines, the result should be fine.

As for the SSU-4, while it would be nice to have a machine with continuous sound, the fact is that the sounds are triggered differently with that board as well as the sounds themselves being different. While it would be physically possible to wire a SSU-4 into an OCI or Sharpshooter, or one of the earlier boards into a Super Nova, the resultant sound would likely not match with the game at all and thus is not advised.

#94 4 years ago

SSU Basic Functioning

Unlike the SSU-1, where sounds were selected by a transistor on the driver board, the SSU-2, 3 & 4 had sounds selected directly by the MPU board. The sound board was connected to J4 on the MPU board which ultimately is controlled by the 8255 PIA after going through a buffer and the LS379 at U20. No sounds or the wrong sounds could be caused by a bad PIA, a bad buffer at U15 or a bad U20 on the MPU board. Of course, if the first two are bad, you’d likely see more problems than just sound with the machine and U20 can be easily checked with a meter. For now, we will assume that the MPU board is functioning 100% and that your sound problem is on the sound board itself.

To select which sound to play the MPU sends a signal to the sound board through connector J1 on the sound board using anywhere from one to four lines. These four lines go to the 74154 4-16 decoder on the sound board and depending upon the combination of lines selected will trigger one of the sounds to play. Once triggered, the sound that plays is determined by a combination of resistors, RC networks, one shot multivibrators and gates that shape the signals going to the sound generator chip and which ultimately determines its output to the amplifier. It is beyond the scope of this posting to explain exactly how the 76477 is programmed to make sounds. For more information on this and building your own synth around this chip, you can follow this link:


It is the requirement to have all these discrete components to create different sounds that limited the scalability of the SSU design. For example, chime sounds had to be sacrificed to get continuous background sound with the SSU-4. Board real estate, component counts and complexity as well as cost all led to this architecture being replaced after the SSU-4.

After triggering, signaling the synthesizer and the 76477 outputting the sound, the signal is sent to the two LM380 amps, controlled by the aforementioned 100k volume pot and then out to the speaker. Synth signaling notwithstanding, the SSUs are actually pretty simple boards. Knowing how sounds are triggered and which synth chips are responsible for which sounds makes troubleshooting and repairing these boards pretty simple.

#95 4 years ago

Repairing the board


Game Plan had a few Achilles heels in their board designs. One of the big ones was their .100 connectors – they simply suck. The pins get weak, they easily lose their plating and quickly cause connection problems.

Plating shot on J1 - needs replacing

In fact on this SSU-2, you can see the pin for the speaker output broke off after I cleaned the board and touched the pin.

J2 has a broken pin - needs replacing

Green bypass caps

Game Plan used the same crappy .1uf green disc bypass caps on the sound board that they did on the MPU. Ideally, these should also be replaced with .1uf 50v axial ceramic caps.
However, do not confuse the green disc caps with the .1uf green mylar “chiclet” caps. These are mostly used to shape the signal on the synth chips and should not be changed unless you determine one is a problem (which they usually are not).

Some green caps are good, others are bad

SSU components

The vast majority of the components on the SSU boards are readily available if any need to be replaced. There are only two components on the board that would be a challenge to source and one major error in the schematics.

TI 76477

The sound generator chips on these boards were made by Texas Instruments beginning in 1978 and production ended just over a decade later. There are very few places to acquire this chip, with Arcade Chips being the most prominent supplier stocking it today - http://www.arcadechips.com/product_info.php?products_id=139

At $14 a pop it ain’t cheap. And there is no modern replacement for it either.

220uf nonpolarized electrolytic cap

On the output side of the board, specifically on the bridged amp, there’s a bipolar cap. You will be hard pressed to find this exact cap anymore but fortunately, Ed @ GPE has a radial bipolar cap that will work fine here: https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=166

100k ohm volume pot

It’s worth mentioning here that while the parts list and schematics for the SSU boards call for a 10k Ohm volume pot, the fact is the documentation is wrong and the boards use a 100k ohm pot, just like the SSU-1.

Cap kit
Some people like replacing all the electrolytic caps on the sound board because of their age. Some of the caps on the SSU-2 shown in these posts are bulging and should be replaced however, all test fine with the ESR meter.

The SSU-2, 3 and 4 all used only five electrolytic capacitors. In addition to the aforementioned 220uf nonpolarized cap, you'll also need:

Two (2) 22uf 16v axial
One (1) 10uf 16v axial
One (1) 150uf 25v axial

to recap the board.

#96 4 years ago

Testing on the bench

So you’re not getting any sounds out of the sound board. This could be a MPU or cabling problem. Remember, the SSUs are “dumb” boards and sounds are triggered by the MPU. But if you’ve checked the MPU per previous posts, we’ll assume you know the MPU is working 100% and that all switch hits that trigger sounds are being recognized.

If you're not getting any sounds you could also have a speaker problem. I covered testing the speaker in a previous post - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/game-plan-mpu-repair-a-shotgun-guide-w-pix/page/2#post-1414108.

If the MPU and speaker are ok, the next things to check are the voltages going to the sound board. The sound board requires only +5 and +12vdc to function correctly. Of course, the +5 and +12v come from the power supply that also provides those same voltages to the MPU and solenoid boards, so if one of these voltages was missing the rest of the machine would not work either. However, you could have a connector issue on the sound board that could keep it from getting the correct voltages (see above).

Assuming the MPU, speaker and voltages are all ok, the easiest thing to do is to test the board on the bench. While you can do it in the machine, I find it easier to take it out and work on the bench top. Either way, since there is no microprocessor control on these boards, all you need to test the board is power (+5/+12vdc), a speaker and some jumper wire.

To test on the bench a standard PC power supply or an external hard drive power brick will work just fine. Both provide the voltages necessary to run the sound board. Hook ground from the power supply to pins 1 and 2 on J1, hook +5v (usually the red wire) to pin 3 on J1 and +12v (usually the yellow wire) to pin 9 on J1.

For the SSU-3, it uses a 15 pin .156 connector at J1 as opposed to the .100 9 pin connector on the SSU-2. However, pin 10 (key pin) and 11-15 are all unused on the SSU-3 so all you really care about are pins 1-9 on this board.

For the SSU-4, it uses a 9 pin .156 connector at J1, but the hookups are still the same.

You’ll also need a known-good speaker hooked up to pins 1 and 9 on J2.

Lastly, you’ll need a jumper wire with a probe that’s hooked to ground. You can clip it to the negative lead of the 22uf cap on the input power side.

Once you’ve made all the connections, you can apply power to the board.

I'm showing pictures here of a SSU-3 with the hookups labeled and then a SSU-2 and a SSU-3 hooked up ready to test. The hookups are identical for the SSU-2 and SSU-4, with the only exception is that there is a key pin on the J1 connector on each at pin 4.

Testing hookups labeled

SSU2 ready to test

SSU3 ready to test

#97 4 years ago

Power Up the Board

When you first power up a SSU-2, it will make a wild cacophony sound (see video below) which makes some people think the machine is broken. This sound is normal and tells you the sound board is functioning. Knowing how people were distressed by the SSU-2 startup sound, there was some logic built into the SSU-3 so that when you fire it up, you’ll get an increasing then decreasing tone sound (see video below).

If you get reduced sound or no sound when you power up the board, then there is most likely a problem with one or both of the LM380 amps, the capacitors in the output circuit, the volume pot or the speaker (see previous post above for speaker testing). The first thing to do to check the output circuit is to touch the back of the volume pot with your finger – you should get a buzzing out of the speaker. If you don’t, then there’s a problem with the amp(s), capacitors or volume pot itself or some combination of all of them. You can check the volume pot with your multimeter; if you have an ESR meter you can check the capacitors. If those check out then the problem is likely one or both of the amps. Replacements are $1.50 each so it’s easiest just to replace them both.

After getting the startup sound, you are ready to check the input section of the board.

The following applies to both the SSU-2 and SSU-3. Any differences are noted below.

Pins 5-8 of J1 are wired to the D, B, A and C inputs (pins 20, 22, 23 & 21 respectively) of the 74154. By grounding either the pins on J1 or the corresponding pins on the chip directly, you should trigger a sound on the sound board, specifically:

J1 --> 74154 --> Sound
Pin 5 -- > Pin 20 --> Gun
Pin 6 -- > Pin 22 --> Ricochet
Pin 7 -- > Pin 23 --> Explosion
Pin 8 -- > Pin 21 --> Horse


You get no sounds grounding any of the pins, chances are the 74154 is bad and needs to be replaced.

You get sounds from pins 5, 6 and 8 but not 7, chances are the 76477 in position A (SSU-2)/IC14 (SSU-3) is bad or some of the support components for it.

You get sounds from pin 7, but not 5, 6 and 8, chances are the 76477 in position B (SSU-2)/IC15 (SSU-3) is bad or some of the support components for it.

You get sounds from all four pins, the input connector and 74154 are good and you can continue testing.

The above test only checks four of the 14 possible sounds the SSU can make and only tests two of the three 76477 synths. To test all the sounds you could either ground the input pins in combination to trigger the outputs for all the sounds or, the easier way, is to simply ground each of the output pins on the 74154 one-by-one to trigger all the sounds. While this does not completely check the 74154 decoder function, the chances are if you get the proper four sounds by grounding pins 5-8 on J1, the decoder is most likely fine.

Below is the table of sounds you should get grounding each pin on the 74154 and the corresponding synth chip that generates the sound:

74154 -- > Sound -- > 76477

Pin 1 -- > Chime “D” -- > SSU-2 – C, SSU-3 – IC17
Pin 2 -- > Chime “C” -- > SSU-2 - C, SSU-3 – IC17
Pin 3 -- > Chime “B” -- > SSU-2 - C, SSU-3 – IC17
Pin 4 -- > Chime “A” -- > SSU-2 - C, SSU-3 – IC17
Pin 5 -- > Chime “H” -- > SSU-2 - C, SSU-3 – IC17
Pin 6 -- > Chime “G” -- > SSU-2 - C, SSU-3 – IC17
Pin 7 -- > Chime “F” -- > SSU-2 - C, SSU-3 – IC17
Pin 8 -- > “Gun” -- > SSU-2 - B, SSU-3 – IC15
Pin 9 -- > “Snake”, SSU-2, “Warble”, SSU-3 -- > SSU-2 – B, SSU-3 – IC15
Pin 10 -- > Chime “E” -- > SSU-2 - C, SSU-3 – IC17
Pin 13 -- > “Horse”, SSU-2, “Pony”, SSU-3 -- > SSU-2 - B, SSU-3 – IC15
Pin 14 -- > “Howl” -- > SSU-2 - B, SSU-3 – IC15
Pin 15 -- > “Ricochet” -- > SSU-2 - B, SSU-3 – IC15
Pin 16 -- > “Explosion” -- > SSU-2 - A, SSU-3 – IC14

The easiest way to understand this is to see it in action. Below are two videos which show how to perform these tests and what sounds get generated when you do.

Here’s the video showing a SSU-2 under test:

And here’s a SSU-3 being tested:

#98 4 years ago

Bad 74154

When I first ran the test on the SSU-2, I did not get any sound for chime “D” which is triggered by pin 1 on the 74154. I decided to remove this chip since it didn’t look right to me.

Original 74154 with caps soldered to legs

When I went to desolder pin 1, I wound up with just the hole in the board. Turns out pin 1 was broken on the chip.

Pin 1 Broken

So I installed a new socket and 74LS154 (could also use a 74HCT154 here).

New 74154 installed

And I took the capacitors that were originally installed on the legs of the chip and soldered them to the appropriate pins on the solder side of the board. This way if this chip ever has to be replaced again it’s simply a matter of popping out the bad one and popping in a new one.


#99 4 years ago

Testing the SSU-4

The procedure outlined above is the same for the SSU-4. The only difference is in the sounds that are generated.

When shorting pins 5-8 on J1 you should get the following sounds:

Pin 5 -- > Twang
Pin 6 -- > Warble
Pin 7 -- > Explosion
Pin 8 -- > Siren

And then when you short the output side of the 74154, the sounds should be as follows:

74154 -- > Sound -- > 76477

Pin 2 -- > Chime “C” -- > IC13
Pin 3 -- > Chime “B” -- > IC13
Pin 4 -- > Chime “A” -- > IC13
Pin 8 -- > “Twang” -- > IC12
Pin 9 -- > “Spark” -- > IC12
Pin 13 -- > “Siren” -- > IC12
Pin 14 -- > “Howl” -- > IC12
Pin 15 -- > “Warble” -- > IC12
Pin 16 -- > “Explosion” -- > IC14

Because of the background sound capabilities of this board, two of the outputs of the 74154 are used to turn background sound on and off. To test this, jumper S must be set towards the J1 connector and then you can short pins on the 74154 to turn on and off continuous sound as follows:

Pin 6 -- > Turn on continuous sound -- > IC15
Pin 1 -- > Turn off continuous sound -- > IC15

#100 4 years ago

Hear the Differences Between SSU-2 and SSU-3

Here's a video that compares the sounds generated by both a SSU-2 and SSU-3. Each sound is identified and played one after the other. Some of the chimes are slightly different, as well as the snake sound on Sharpshooter being unique compared to the Warble sound on OCI. And lastly the Ricochet sounds are different as well with the pitch going down on Sharpshooter vs. going up on OCI.

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