Time to Stuff
All through holes and traces have been repaired, corrosion cleaned and neutralized, major components tested and new needed components acquired. Now it's time to stuff the board with all the new components.
Any ICs that were originally soldered to the board get replaced with a twin wipe socket. Some people prefer pin sockets and some prefer pin strips. Which one you use is up to you. The only thing is don't solder the new ICs directly to the board - install a socket first. I wound up socketing U9, U14, U16 & U20. Someone had previously socketed U1, U4, U5 and U19.
For the connector pins, standard .100 header strips should be used, specifically two 15 pin headers and four 9 pin headers.
You'll notice next to each header there is a "K" screened into the board. This marks where the keying pin goes. After installing each header, be sure to cut the pin next to the "K."
The only connector on the board that does not have the key pin marked is J7, just above the battery mount. Pin 3 is the key - be sure to cut this.
A new 10uf electrolytic cap is installed and the reset daughterboard is reattached at the same time. Make sure you reattach the daughterboard like this:
1 - the lower lead of the 56k resistor to the positive lead of the 10uf cap
2 - the emitter of the rightmost 2n3904 transistor on the board to the negative lead of the 10uf cap (you will probably need a cut-off resistor lead to make this connection)
3 - the lower lead of the left-most 10k resistor to the lower lead of the 8.2k ohm resistor
4 - the upper lead of the 2.2k resistor to the cathode (banded end) of the 1n959B zener diode
You can use the same through holes for the cap as well as 1 & 2 above if that makes it easier for you to mount the board. Also remember, there's no need to replace the connector pins at J8 (connector next to U9) or the decoupling cap above it as this is for -5v which you shouldn't be using, unless your board has working TMS2716 EPROMs installed.