Game Plan machines don’t get a lot of love. There’s a lot of history behind the company along with some intrigue. If you’re reading this you probably share some of the GP love and know it is increasingly difficult to keep these games running.
With the word that JimF @ Echo Lake may not be making replacement MPUs anymore for Game Plan machines, I thought it would be a good idea to document how to fix a GP MPU as it is the part that probably fails the most often - usually due to a leaking battery.
If you have a working GP machine and it has the original battery, stop reading, go find your machine and cut the battery out. Now. Right this second. Don’t wait. It’s a ticking time bomb and dealing with the after math of the corrosion from a leaking battery is not something you want to have to do. The battery is not necessary for operation as all it does is keep audits and high scores. Settings, including free play, are made with the 32 DIP switches on the MPU board. You'll get garbage on the displays for HSTD with no battery but that's about it.
In this thread I will be repairing a MPU-2 board. These boards initially came into use with Sharpshooter and were used pretty much until the company shut down. They are backwards compatible with the MPU-1 boards which were used in the early GP cocktail machines. Much of what I’ll cover here is applicable to both but you should check schematics and be sure of the differences in case you’re working with a MPU-1 board.
Some of the techniques I'll show can be used with other boards as well. But this thread will stay focused on the Game Plan MPUs.
July 2014 edit: I and others have reached out to JimF. While he feels his product has matured and demand has slowed, if he gets enough requests to do another run he will. He currently prices the boards at $275 shipped. More details on this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/game-plan-pinball-owners-and-future-owners-must-read
Post edited by viperrwk: Added info on Echo Lake repro boards