Hello gurus! I'm in need of some assistance. I'm trying to get my Game Plan Lizard machine going, but every time I power on.. my solenoid, and 5 + 12 volt fuses blow. Both of them, the moment I power on. I also noticed a little bit of burn marks on one of the connections going to the power supply board.
FB_IMG_1559005140954 (resized).jpgFB_IMG_1559005154019 (resized).jpgIMG_20190526_145725427 (resized).jpgIMG_20190527_014629608 (resized).jpgIMG_20190527_014808776 (resized).jpgThere's likely a short somewhere; connection points bridged with solder, a solder blob that fell somewhere, a bad diode, a bad bridge rectifier, or someone could have repinned a connector and put something in the wrong place.
Disconnect the playfield and boards, leaving only the power supply connected. Then power up and see what happens. Connect one board at a time (MPU, solenoid, sound), then the playfield last. Power up each time you connect something and see if it blows a fuse. This should help narrow down what is actually blowing the fuses.
Also, instead of wasting fuses, use thermal resetable fuses, and either solder a bad fuse to the terminals, or just run wires with alligator clips.
Quoted from ForceFlow:There's likely a short somewhere; connection points bridged with solder, a solder blob that fell somewhere, a bad diode, a bad bridge rectifier, or someone could have repinned a connector and put something in the wrong place.
Disconnect the playfield and boards, leaving only the power supply connected. Then power up and see what happens. Connect one board at a time (MPU, solenoid, sound), then the playfield last. Power up each time you connect something and see if it blows a fuse. This should help narrow down what is actually blowing the fuses.
Also, instead of wasting fuses, use thermal resetable fuses, and either solder a bad fuse to the terminals, or just run wires with alligator clips.
Ok so when the empty terminal is plugged in is when the fuses pop
IMG_20190528_193734932 (resized).jpgAlright you're looking at the right stuff,you just need to diagnose it.
Google how to test bridge rectifiers. Or because they're cheap just replace them as they're probably from 1980.
The LM323K should get tested as well, only fake Chinese replicas available to best of me knowledge. I remember reading an aftermarket version that ran cooler. It's mentioned somewhere here on Pinside.
And have a Manual/Schematic for this machine will help you too.
-Mike
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Alpena, MI