(Topic ID: 320334)

Game plan Lizard

By Galaxy-Jay

44 days ago


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  • 36 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Galaxy-Jay
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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    #1 44 days ago

    I just picked up a ruff and badly neglected game plan Lizard from a barn that is going to be a project, I was wondering if any one had plastics that they could send me a good picture of as I'm missing several of.
    Or if any one has a set they would be willing to sell I'd be vary appreciative.

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    #2 44 days ago
    Quoted from Galaxy-Jay:

    I just picked up a ruff and badly neglected game plan Lizard from a barn that is going to be a project, I was wondering if any one had plastics that they could send me a good picture of as I'm missing several of.
    Or if any one has a set they would be willing to sell I'd be vary appreciative. [quoted image]

    Sweet lord, that playfield is filthy!!
    Congrats on the pickup, love my Game Plans. Hope it cleans up well!

    #3 43 days ago

    It smells as bad as it looks too.
    I spent an hour removing the play field hardware and fortunately other then some minor ware its in vary good shape if any one had a good picture of the right sling plastic and the upper drop target plastic that would be awesome I may be able to make new ones.

    #4 42 days ago

    I'll check mine later today and send some pics.

    #5 42 days ago

    Thank you that would be much appreciated.
    I'm working though the play field and one of the pop bumpers is so badly rusted the plunger is rusted solid to the end of stroke stop any one know what a close mach to the pop bumpers is?

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    #6 42 days ago

    Forgot my plastic for the upper drop target is cracked and broken. Hopefully you can make it work.

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    #7 42 days ago

    If you need drop target stickers or the spinner skull pm me.

    #8 41 days ago

    Thank you soo much for the pics that's great I'll post some pics of the new ones I create

    #9 41 days ago

    is there a substitute for the lock down bar like a Gottlieb? I was hoping it was like my Stern but its not and the one I have with it seems to be for a Williams.

    1 week later
    #10 30 days ago

    Galaxy-Jay have you been able to turn your Lizard on? Wondering if your 4th star roll over is always lit?

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    #11 30 days ago

    i have two of these in my storage, neither is currently fully working and i know some of the plastics are cracked/broken on each. i should at some point scan all the plastics and hopefully be able to put together a complete set for someone to print.

    and i think the pops and much of the other hardware either is or is pretty darn close to Bally of the same era, but i am not sure about that.

    #12 29 days ago

    I just got a new mpu for Lizard in yesterday so I now have all the parts to boot it but I still need to re pin all the molex connectors, I'm hopping maybe this weekend I might fire it up for the first time in 20 years maybe,
    but I will for sure keep you posted about the rollover light.

    #13 29 days ago
    Quoted from ourdave76:

    Galaxy-Jay have you been able to turn your Lizard on? Wondering if your 4th star roll over is always lit?
    [quoted image]

    Here is one I fixed a bunch of boards, it looks like it is lit to me.

    #14 29 days ago

    Thanks gdonovan.

    #15 27 days ago

    well I got the game to boot makes appropriate sounds and lights up still have lots of switch issues and such but the forth rollover on mine does not light up all the time and dose work in a lamp test. Also during one of my tests I completely melted my brand new left flipper coil...... not happy bout that.

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    #16 27 days ago

    Thanks galaxy-jay. That’s 2 to 1. Always lit vs. not.

    #17 25 days ago

    has any one had the issue of dim displays when the game first boots the credit display is quite bright but after the game is booted there quite dim.
    any one know the cause and how to fix it?

    1 week later
    #18 18 days ago

    so does any one know what the dip swish setting should be for the Lizard I've not had any luck finding that info or if some one could post a pic of there dip switch setting I'd be much apprehensive

    #19 17 days ago

    Not sure this will help since mine is an Echo Lake board.

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    #20 17 days ago

    I tried the same dip switch configuration as your board but there was no change at all.
    thx for the pic though I didn't know there was another aftermarket main board replacement out there.
    My mpu looks like this one.

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    #21 17 days ago

    i don't recall where i downloaded this Word document from, but if it's the same as original, it lists:

    "General DIP Settings.

    This information applies to most Game plan games. See the game's manual for exact settings. The setting below came from the Sharpshooter manual (MPU-2), but should apply to most games. Games that originally used an MPU-1 or MPU-2 have slightly different DIP switch values (though games like Sharpshooter, Sharpshooter 2, and Coney Island came with an MPU-2, but have MPU-1 style DIP switch settings).
    • Switches 1 to 5 to adjust the number of credits per coin for coin chute #1.
    • Switch 8 is the free play option. Set to ON for free play. Applies to both MPU-1 and MPU-2. Game will usually show 99 credits and will decrement to 0, and then go back to 99.
    • Switches 9 to 12 to adjust the number of credits per coin for coin chute #2. Setting switch 9 to 12 as OFF makes coin chute #2 the same values as coin chute #1. Applies to both MPU-1 and MPU-2.
    • Switch 13 for background sound. ON = yes to background sound. MPU-2 games only.
    • Switch 14 is for the extra ball option. ON = yes to extra ball. MPU-2 games only.
    • Switch 16 is the credit tune option. ON = sound when a coin is inserted. Applies to both MPU-1 and MPU-2.
    • Switches 17 to 21 to adjust the number of credits per coin for coin chute #3. Applies to both MPU-1 and MPU-2.
    • Switch 22 controls the bonus multiplier. ON = yes. MPU-2 games only.
    • Switch 23 and 24 controls the number of balls on MPU-2 games only. OFF OFF = 1 ball, ON OFF = 2 balls, OFF ON = 3 balls, ON ON = 5 balls.
    • Switches 25 to 27 controls the maximum credits the game will take. If set all OFF, the maximum credits is 5.
    • Switch 28 controls the number of balls per game (MPU-1 games only). ON = 5 balls, OFF = 3 balls. On MPU-2 games switch 28 and switch 29 controls Replays, Extra Ball, 50000 points or no award.
    • Switch 29 controls replay or extra ball option on MPU-1 games only. ON = replay, OFF = extra ball.
    • Switch 30 controls the match. ON = match, OFF = no match. Applies to both MPU-1 and MPU-2.
    • Switch 31 & 32 control the number of credits awarded for exceeding the high score (zero to three credits). Both switches set to OFF will award NO credits. Applies to both MPU-1 and MPU-2.

    Free Play.
    Gameplan has an option on all games for free play (no credits or money required to start a game). Turn switch #8 ON and this sets the game to free play. This option is yet another reason to not use a battery, as there is no need for the game to remember credits. When free play is set to on, the game will show 99 credits and decrement to 0 credits, and then go back to 99 credits."

    hope this might help!

    #22 16 days ago

    Ya that helps quite a bit I knew about free play but that was about it thank you for that info.

    #23 15 days ago

    Form the installation and repair manual for Pinball Lizard.

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    #24 15 days ago

    o nice that's perfect thank you so much.
    any chance it says about the sound board that controlled the lights on the back box for the breathing effect and the tung mine fade on and off then back on at boot up but then just stay lit.

    #25 14 days ago

    This should help

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    #26 12 days ago

    Thax for the pics, as iv been working trying to figure the issue out I seem to have lost all the controlled lights except 3 on the back box and now all the scr's test bad. Not sure how I managed that but I did, I've notated there's a bunch of caps on the light boards and I'm curious if any one has had issue with them maybe my issue? I'm sure not having any luck thus far 1 step forward 3 back with this thing.

    #27 11 days ago

    Question for ourdave76

    In the repair book dose it have a page indicating what specific light on the play field is controlled by what scr?
    I have the light board schematics but have no idea what scr controls what play field light iv got 1 light on the play field working and 3 not sure how or y but I cant figure out there relationship to one another.
    any help would be much appreciated.

    #28 10 days ago

    No page with that information.

    #29 8 days ago

    Well finally some progress thanks again for the pic's of the plastics as now I have the new ones made and on. I think they look decent better the nothing and I finally got the breathing lights to work correctly.
    As for the play field controlled lights.....not so much lol

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    #30 8 days ago

    Looks great. I like the flipper rubber color choice.

    #31 7 days ago

    I think it matches the play field better then yellow and although the pic dose not show it the flippers are transparent green

    #32 6 days ago

    Here is the plastics with light behind a bit washed out as the blacks are not opaque enough.

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    #33 6 days ago

    What is your process for making the plastics? Do you have a file, etc?

    #34 6 days ago

    What I did was take the file pic edit it in photoshop and properly scale it then I printed it on clear decal paper and seal it to the plastic with clear coat then applied a white decal layer and seal that. the back of the plastic is white just like the originals.
    I have the photoshop files if you want them. though i modified the one at the drop target that is not on the file.

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    #35 3 days ago

    did you print it with inkjet or laser? i wonder if that may make a difference.

    i have a Lizard with a similar issue and James Edes gave me some inkjet waterslide "slip" paper to try. is that what you used?

    #36 2 days ago

    ya I used an inkjet with inkjet water slide paper. I was thinking of printing the same image over it's self a few times to see if that made a diffrens but if my printer is not alighnd well and the papers off a bit it might just make a blurry mess.

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