I just played four test games. Twelve launched balls were delivered perfectly to the upper playfield with no bounce backs. As I said before I only had a few instances of the ball needing a second kick to get it up to the upper playfield before. I would say go ahead and add the two washers to the two upper coil bracket screws. It's a ten minute fix that will cost nothing. I'm curious to see if this fixes your problem.

Okay...here's my honest assessment.

When I unboxed it, I thought the game was gorgeous-looks even better in person than the pictures (as Aurich has been telling us for a while). Then I saw the area under the glass. It's still pretty fugly, but once the lights come on, it all gets tied together and looks awesome. I still wish they had spent more time on the PF artwork.

Setting the game up, I couldn't help but think what a cheap piece of shit it is. Metal backbox, metal speaker panel, and all of it--along with the backglass--rattles around whenever you move the machine. But the worst thing for me was the lack of a quik-lok latch. You have to now install two bolts in the back. REALLY? And I hate the new lockdown bar latches. It all just feels really chintzy to me and reeks of cost-cutting.

You can say what you want about JJP, either pro or con, but they do make a better quality machine (now that the light issues have been solved). The JJP machines are not as flimsy, and feel more like the old B/W machines compared to recent Sterns.

I fired up my first few games and immediately thought I had made a mistake switching from Hobbit to this (although I'm really not a fan of the TH gameplay, which is why I cancelled to begin with). I bricked just about every shot and had no idea what I was doing. But once I started making the shots, I was reminded why Steve Ritchie is amazing. Great flow...even with the upper playfield.

About the upper playfield: I can't imagine playing this game without it. It's integral to the game and not nearly the afterthought feel you get from ACDC's lower playfield. Hurry up shots are up there, so you have to get it up the ramp and hit the lit target before time expires. And it's a game that makes you pay for every missed shot--even some made shots. The gold targets around the PF are like the targets in POTC and will shoot your ball STDM. And one thing that pisses me off is the battering ram, Castle Black, and lock ramp shots. Hit them the wrong way, and the ball just dribbles back down the middle. Think the AC/DC bell, but times 3.

I also don't understand the ball shooting off the throne onto the plastics below. It's like they didn't give a shit about that part of the game, and it's just asking for plastics to be broken down the road. A mod needs to be made NOW to protect all that stuff below...perhaps an exit ramp like the one made to protect the Arwin plastic on LOTR?

I just wish I knew what the hell I was doing. I read the rule sheet for the Pro, and that gave some insight. But there's so much strategy to this game, and the ruleset looks to be so deep by the time it's done that it'll make AC/DC look like child's play by comparison.

And speaking of which, this is the fastest game I've ever played. Ever. Faster than AC/DC by a mile. When the ball comes shooting out of the kickback and careens from one target or post to the next, it's almost tough to track the ball--especially when some lighting effects fire off.

All in all, I'm glad I got it and this great game will only get better with time. It's not perfect by any means...but then again, what game is?

I was a little skeptical about the upper playfield prior to receiving my LE, but no more. It is a fun upper playfield. It is very playable and WAY better than the lower playfield in ACDC. The color changing GI on it is great. The best part is the Castle Multiball you can earn which to my knowledge the Pro does not have. I almost always buy the Pro and wholeheartedly recommend the Premium/LE for this title. And yes, I have played the Pro.

I setup my LE. I'm having a problem when mystery is lit. The ball doesn't seem be diverted and goes from right to left lane Anne back to the left flipper. Takes about 4 tries before the ball gets diverted.

Edit: I think my side to side level was off so that may have been an issue. I also have my leg levelers in the back as high as they go and may have to dial them down a bit. So far leveling the side to side has helped.

Also the audio seems to cut in and out randomly.
Edit: sounds like this is a software issue.

I liked the pro at Expo. I am loving playing the LE so far.

Sounds like the honeymoon period is just starting. If you could in a week give a update on your thoughts after playing it so much your hands hurt. :-)So you think it looks cheap because of the inside changes. But it still feels like the old B/W. Sounds like they cut back but where it's not an every game thing; meaning to get inside it and fix something. I guess if your trying to find ways to cut back it could be worse. Before everyone says it I know the costs of machines are through the roof. I'd rather see them stay in business with cut back and keep a solid feeling game they succeeded. I would (and have) only bought/buy games I absolutely have to have. Thxs for the review.

Sorry...I was unclear about this. JJP machines feel like the old B/W. The new Sterns just feel cheap. (I've edited the post.) And I don't think they're cutting back to stay in business at all. I think it's all about making more money.

PS - And what do you mean about a honeymoon? I just ripped on a whole slew of things about this machine.

So, I noticed this when I got my TWD and GOT. These were my first two machines I've ever had with the newer metal grills. There is some slop in the fit for the grill and the back glass. Now I have a roll of thin felt tape around, so I use it to help protect areas on the machine, but figured I'd try to fix this too. I did one wrap around each of the screw/posts that the grill slides onto. This adds enough thickness that it now sits in there without clanging around. Then I did three small pieces along the top of the trim on the back glass/translite. One in the middle and left and right sides (but all along the top). And now that too sits in there nice and snug. I can take pictures if the description doesn't make sense, but it made a huge difference for the fit of these two things.

Please do. And if you can provide a link to the tape you're talking about, that would be helpful as well. Thanks!

Here is a link to the felt tape that I bought from amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QDRRNE

Here is images of it wrapped around the screw/post on the inside of the backbox for the speaker grill:
IMG_3418.jpg
IMG_3420.jpg

Here are images of using in along the top of the backglass trim - 3 small pieces and doesn't touch the actual backglass/translite:
IMG_3428.jpg
IMG_3425.jpg

Here are some extra areas where I use it under the lockbar, in the lockbar, and under the service rails:
IMG_3421.jpg
IMG_3422.jpg
IMG_3423.jpg
IMG_3424.jpg

Hope this is useful / helpful.

Can somebody look at their dragon on the LE and tell me if this is normal? (I'm talking, of course, about the staple-looking end of the torque wire or whatever you call it that's just sticking out into the air under the dragon's wing.) I just noticed it and it looks like it's supposed to be attached to something, but I can't see what. If it IS supposed to be attached, can somebody get their cell phone under there and take a pic of what it's attached to and how? Thanks in advance!

20151213_143517_resized.jpg

I installed the washers and the elevator is still struggling to get the balls up. I guess I'm calling Stern tomorrow morning.

I noticed that too, but that is normal. It's part of the spring mechanism that allows him to flap. It's an eyesore when you are up close to it, but if you aren't under the glass, no one notices. I even forgot about it until you just mentioned it. But I noticed it right away too when checking out the dragon.

Well, then, Mezel Mods has to make some kind of 3D printed dragon penis or something to cover that up, because that's inexcusable AND fugly.

Are you having any problems with the mystery shot?

I don't have mystery shot problems. But I do hit the little pop-up guard in front of the ramp and have it not move at all from time to time. Don't know what that's about.

I think the new backbox design is an improvement over the old design, even if it doesn't have the quick latch. WMS/Bally games never had the quick latch and nobody ever complained about the 2 bolts needed for those backboxes. I think it makes sense to standardize some hardware so I'm sure that's why the playfield latch system is now universal among all games. Production costs can be saved to offset costs for LCD displays.

Rob

Is the ball supposed to go to the mini playfield on a plunge or into the lanes or even the chair?

The balls going to the chair only sit in the chair 1 out of 5 times. The rest fall out. Pretty disappointed.

Played one today and I have one word for it
WOW

I think I fixed this by bending the exit of the wireform down a little. Still having a problem with the gates/diverter. Switch is good. VUK is fine to mini and throne.
Inconsistent right loop not making the scoop and going to the left loop.

Can someone check their diverter and see if it looks like mine at rest and posted in. The diverter is in the very back of the playfield covering the scoop

image.jpeg
image_1.jpeg

The ball should go to the scoop on plunge, unless it doesn't make it. I've got maybe a 50% chance of it making it, but I use the action button to launch almost always.

It shouldn't go to the throne without mystery or extra ball active. If it does, it's skipping by the mini pf. Hard to say if it's code related or physical since it's well hidden when it's happening. Diverter controls could be confused possible. I don't have it happen to me all that much to be honest, so hard to say.

Which B/W games are you talking about? The ones I have all have the hinge and clasp holding the backbox to the cabinet. Even that would be an improvement over having to get the ratchet out and remove the bolts. I just don't see how that kind of cost cutting can add up to much, and it's really annoying for the end user.

Why do Jersey Jack games come with the old sterns latching system now? Did Sterns loose the rights to it or something?

The old latch system on wide body pins like WOZ I don't like . Sterns decision to go with the 2 latches works fine.

Are we talking about the backbox latch here or the lockdown bar latch? Both suck on Sterns.

And JJP uses the older stuff because Jack hasn't started making cheap shit yet.

I actually like there new back box system.

You are always assured that it is locked

Have to disagree on that. The lockdown bar clamps hold the lockdown bar way tighter than the old mech did. Cheaper is stronger and tighter in this case. Lockdown bars on Bally/Williams games are almost always loose because almost no one knows they are adjustable and how to adjust them. The backbox bolts are also a huge improvement. Two screw, 30 seconds, done. No removing the backglass and struggling to line up blind bolts holes. That was always a pain and I'm glad it's been improved on.

Ever wonder WTF it looks like under the mini playfield!

image.jpeg

Looks like a Pro.

Don't tell me YOU did that. Looks like a PITA to get to...but I might have to do it if I have to replace that elevator.

That clasp is only for a temporary hold. You still need to put bolts in to secure the head. If you don't, well that's just not good practice.

Rob

They may hold the lockdown tighter, but it's a pain to find the damn handles all the time. There's gotta be a better way.

No idea what you're talking about with the backbox. I've always just lifted the head, put the wrench in the hole, and gave it a good quarter turn. Much less hassle and just as secure. And I still think a metal backbox and speaker panel suck. I like wood.

Then that's not good practice, I guess. But in a home use setting I don't see why you'd need to, nor have I met anybody else that bolts it down. The clasp is plenty secure.

It's pretty easy. 4 main screws on the mini. 2 screws from the ramp were it attaches.
2 connectors on the mini playfield today the main. Dragon is 4 screws. Once I figured out the screws it was easy.

I am having a bitch of a time with the back scoop and the throne (ball bouncing out for the mystery award. Seems like if the shoot isn't just right it won't get in the back scoop. The throne room bounce outs are a pain.

When I have my back legs all the way up about 7.5 degree incline. The scoop is mostly okay but the throne room looses the ball.
When I am at the bubble level on the game, about 6.8-7.0, the scoop seems impossible to hit but the throne rooms is a little better.
I took the mini off to get a good look at the scoop and play around with how the ball was entering. Hit the scoop every time with no issues at 7.5 incline.
I might try to play with some dead drop foam and see if it will keep the ball in the throne room.

I'm having issues with the ball struggling to get to the mini playfield. No problem getting to the throne. Go figure. Maybe it's the angle of my machine (which is around 7 degrees). I'm assuming you mean "throne" and not "throne room" (which is WOZ).

Actually buddy ive seen a few wpc pins with just the latch used have the wood screws rip out or the wood will just break off since its just partial board . Since ive seen that I started using the bolts , it also holds the head much more steady . I wld definitely recommend using at least one bolt .

Yes the throne. Damn games overlapping.

WTF are people doing to their machines that THAT happens? I've never even had those screws stressed in the least.

WTF are they doing? They are playing their games!! Go enjoy your Game of Thrones!! There are a $hitload of guys who wish they had your machine and your busy dissecting it and scrutinizing minutia rather than playing the freaking thing. Come back after you put up 3 Billion points and tell us how much better it is than LOTR.

Simmer down there. And GOT will never top LOTR.

Just playing I assume . That wood is weak especially after 20-25 years of abuse ,a couple of good nuges and the head can move and cause it to happen I suppose. . I use to never use the bolts but there is no sense in taking chances for something that takes 1 min to prevent.

I am enjoying it. Great game. But nobody's going to convince me that it's not cheaply made, nor that the bolts on B/W games are anything but optional in a home setting. Anybody that would beat the shit out of my machines to the point that they could destroy my backbox would be escorted from the house and never touch my machines again.

Lower it back to 6.5 degrees which is what they're supposed to be at ... Try that and see if it gets a bit better.

I had issues with my ACDC at 7 degrees but it was sweet at 6.5-6.6. Crazy ... But true.

rd

I sure as hell hope GOT never ends up like that cluck fest LOTR.

This same thing happened on my Star Trek LE on the drop down target in front of the ship. I fixed the promblem by making the spring more powerful / tighter by moving the spring down about six loops. This fixed the viagra drop target for me. Or you can install a stronger spring on the drop target that could work too. Maybe stern did not install a spring with enough power.

The honeymoon comment was meant as it's brand new and I'm sure you'll find other likes and dislikes (quality). I agree also about bottom line, but all companies are doing it. Maybe not JJP just yet, and I hope for them not in future. JJP can always claim you get what you pay for. But they need to find a balance with meeting production and quality. Same quality faster production. Then hopefully the quality bar will raise on other manufactures.

Excellent, it sounded like you weren't enjoying the game anymore because of the little stuff. I also like the new backbox bolts better because the old B/W backbox clamps almost always got bent or damaged when people would tip the cabinets onto their backs when moving a machine. The games were designed to be tipped onto their backs as they have the four plastic feet to prevent scraps but the latch itself has nothing to secure it when the backbox is folded up. I'll bet everybody here destroyed at least one of those clamps before they learned the hard way that the latch has to taped or have a rubber put on it to secure it before tipping a game. It is a horrible design.

I always remove the backbox latch and plate when I prepare a B/W game to move it. Only takes a couple of minutes and you have to keep track of the latch (that's why I like plastic baggies!). Saves your carpet from damage too. Not the worlds greatest design, agreed.