Holding the flipper is no problem, and cradle is easy. It's just like the EOS is not strong, so if the ball hits it on return from a target, the flipper drops down. Almost like an unintentional live catch.

This!

I feel a distinct difference between the left and right flipper.

I updated to 1.21 and only had time to play one game. The problem with my upper left flipper seems to be gone. I didn't notice it feeling weak and the strength seemed the same as the upper right. I'll have to play some more games to know for sure.

More of an unintentional drop catch.

Same. It only happened to me a couple times before but hasn't happened yet with new code.

I'm speculating that this is happening to everyone, even after the code update, and on both flippers. It's just much harder to replicate on the R upper flipper. You have to hit it just wrong to get the rebound to the R flipper.

Did you try engaging the right flipper and pushing down on it with your finger? Does it give easily? If so, I had the same issue on a game and it was an EOS adjustment issue.

Winter has come and I got frozen. I have been to Winter has come many times, but this was the first time I got frozen. At first, I thought the machine was malfuntioning. What a shocker!

happened to me and I thought the flippers were dead as well.

You hear that freezing sound when it happens, right? Happened to me once, and I thought it was the coolest thing ever (pardon the pun).

Nice solution with the coil sleeves and shrink wrap. Did you try shrink wrap directly around the post without the coil sleeve? Maybe that way there would be room for two or three layers of shrink wrap which might add a little bounce to replace the removed rubber ring?

I just looked at my machine to see what people are talking about with the left orbit. I pulled the playfield forward and rested it on the skis so I could roll a ball down the left orbit. I did see some forward bounce when the ball hit the diverter which could force the ball into an inlane rubber. I have plenty of space between the back rail and the inlane rubbers but can see how some people can have an issue with diverter alignment. Hopefully Stern can adjust this moving forward. Sorry some of you guys are having a problem with this.

I heat slinked around the coil sleeve, but I am sure you can do a few layers. I thought about heat shrinking around the in lane but with the coil sleeve it gives it maximum protection. As far as the diverter v groove there are two issues with it. One, the v groove is not milled properly and does not have a smooth transition and two, the diverter arm can also be milled incorrectly. With these two issues it is no wonder that some people have good left orbits and others do not. There just isn't enough margin for error when these are fabricated. I am sure Stern spend many man hours perfecting these two items, but there just was no account for margins of error from their supplier who fabricates these two items. I created two solutions to help those of us without perfectly milled components.

Slim Coil sleeves: These allow for more wiggle room past the posts for left orbit shots

Shield bracket: This allows a left orbit shot to have a smooth transition between diverter arm and v groove

After I test these out extensively I will start making them for people in need of them. Hopefully Stern will send out fixes for this at no charge. I do however see GOT LE/PREM owners having issues in future if they do not now after their machines are broken in.

I've had my upper playfield off to see what was going on with mine. It isn't a huge deal to remove.

I am wondering if the ball rail to diverter arm fix can be done from the rear by simply removing the the diverter coil assembly to make it easier for people?

Maybe like a sleeve that goes over the ball rail and stops at the ball rail mount screw that goes through the playfield.

And THANKS for all your help!!

Yes it can. I was going to suggest this once I finish testing phase for anyone wanting to install one. The sleeve method was the first test I tried, but there were clearance issues with the sleeve and it is triple the material and takes three times as long to fix which makes a $15 dollar fix a $45 dollar fix. There was also the issue with my metal sleeve that it would not flex enough against diverter arm to create a smooth transition. Have you tried a metal sleeve yourself TVP?

Thanks for posting your efforts so far. Now I'm thinking do we really even need inlane post rubbers at all? Is there even a ball launch skill shot? I just shoot for the elevator on ball launch so trying to nudge between inlanes isn't an issue. I doubt the inlane posts would ever take a hard enough shot to break so why not just remove the inlane rubbers altogether if someone has a clearance issue?

If you remove rubbers and do not have a shield bracket that v divot will launch ball into post and crack those plastics, I went to home depot and found some even smaller washers I would advise using if you do not use the sleeve method. The sleeve method just allows for a less than perfect left orbit pass through since the left orbit flow is not that smooth. Not sure if game will play without upper play field, but if you watch how the ball goes through left orbit, it rattles around a bit.

That is out of my league. LOL

I also wonder if there was a way for stern to have an arm diverter that was a little larger diameter so it is not set back so much to hit the V.

It would be great if they said some diverter arms were out of spec and too small and that is all we needed.

I requested a few to revamp for them free of charge, but I haven't heard anything back from them yet.

I don't think there are EOS switches on the mini playfield flippers. I didn't see any on a picture cgt posted. If they push down, they are going to stay down.

Rob

Interesting. Yeah sorry. My knowledge of games stops with mid 80s tech. Haha

Got my GOT topper today for my LE. Topper looks well made. Don't think it is worth $500.

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I think it would look a lot better if it were the same width as the cabinet. I like the shields tho

What is the height measurement from top of wing span to base?

Video, video, video haha

Looks pretty bitchin. Is it already integrated into the code?

Yes it is.

9"

thanks

Phew, cheers looks like the one I blindly ordered without measuring like an idiot will fit! Thank you. Will look great next my White Water

NEW ISSUE!

EVERYONE CHECK YOUR BATTERING RAM! I noticed some black shavings and saw that the top left screw is scraping the battering ram. It is an easy fix you just need to add a washer, but if you have not done so your ram may be damaged and need replacing. Let me know if this is just my machine or its others.

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That is what could be causing the battering ram not registering hits all the time.

So the LEs didn't have factory installed spacers? Here's my pro battering ram with Factory installed spacers. Not getting hung up on anything. But tough to register left flipper hits. Might be a switch adjustment.

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Since we're on topic. I decided to take a look and see what's up with the ram. I made the eos switch more sensitive, using a leaf switch adjuster tool to slightly bend it so just the tiniest hit registers. So far one game in, I get about 4 out of 5 left flipper hits registering whereas before it was more like 1 out of 5. Hopefully that's all that's needed.

So while making the switch more sensitive did help, I'm not quite convinced it's the end be all fix. Solid rocket hits with the left flipper just don't move the ram. I'll dig deeper tomorrow, but I think the ram needs to sit up a fraction a butt hair higher to allow the left flipper trajectory of the ball get a better angle on the hit.

Wow just reread my post. I'm tired. But hopefully it makes sense

You have a pro, the design flaw is for LE/PREM models. As far as making a smoother battering ram I will get back to you once I replace mine....UUUUUUUGH!

Oww but I thought LE's were made first then stripped back for Pro's...

So why the need to always fix shit

That's because there's nothing to stop the ball from moving on a pro.

Hey, it just plays faster!

Rob

There is a plate that secures the battering ram under the playfield. The battering ram on my pro had fallen apart during shipping with the plate in the cabinet and the screws found in the shipping box. I didn't realize anything was wrong until I found the plate in the cabinet and wondered what it was for. I put small lock washers on the screws so it won't come apart again. I also had to loctite the black screws in the side of the battering ram because they kept coming loose. Just a tiny bit of loctite because that stuff is bad for plastic!

Rob

My #405 LE had the B-ram spacer, no damage here.

Can anyone tell me the rules to the upper playfield while a house mode is running? You hit the lit targets on the upper playfield then hit the loop and it says, castle collected, but I'm not sure what that means as you still have to complete the shots on the lower playfield. Does it raise the values for the main house mode?

update on LE #82. After 13 frustrating days (waiting for my replacement Node 8 board), the game is finally up and running. Yes, battering ram is already showing some wear (and I've got probably less than 50 games).. thanks for identifying the fix for that. I'm observing maybe 1/3 of my left loop shots (with diverter up) making it passed the pop-bumpers. A perfect shot from the right flipper will make it through consistently, but always with a bit of a burble and hiccup. Looking forward to the fix from Stern on this issue.

G

I was wondering the same thing. I assume you just get more points as you still have to complete all the lower playfield shots to complete the mode. This game is going to be a tourney monster in the future once everyone figures it out. I'm afraid I might just be better off with a pro because there's almost no way I'm ever going to get through this whole game, the pro is a bear as it is, the LE is a potential cerebral hemorrhage for an average player like me.

Damn, I'm jealous. My game has the left loop issue even worse than yours (I've NEVER had a complete left orbit loop despite many perfect shots). I've tried Steve Ritchie's fix to no avail. Stern has assured me that they are aware of the problem & are looking into a solution. Here's hoping!

For each castle collected award 7,500,000 in bonus (including bonus mulitplier) for the rest of the game. Castles can only be completed during a house mode. Castles are not needed to complete a house. Exiting castle, returns to mode. Castle loops or targets build value or mode shot. Scoring depends on house and upper PF targets as follows per v1.02 readme.txt

+ During house modes timers are extended from awards on the upper
playfield. Allowing players to go for the castle of that house and still
have time to complete the house mode.

+ Extra rules for the upper playfield during house modes:
Stark - Loop Build its value before castle collected, targets build after
Baratheon - Loop Build its value before castle collected, targets build after
GreyJoy - After castle is collected the exit lanes spot a Greyjoy shots
Lannister - Loop Build its value before castle collected, targets build after
Martell - Loop Build its value before castle collected and before 3 orbits
are completed, targets build after castle is collected. Both add back
points to the hurry up half.
Tyrell - After castle is collected the exit lanes spot a Tyrell shots
Targaryen I - Loop adds back point to the hurry up before castle collected and
targets add back after castle is collected.
Targaryen II - Loop adds back point to the hurry up before castle collected and
targets add back after castle is collected.
Targaryen III - Loop adds back point to the hurry up before castle collected and
targets attack the dragon after the castle is collected.

Cool, thanks for that info.

Does this GI flicker when the flipper buttons are pressed happening on all of the GOTLE's? Has any buddy found a fix for this?

It happens on all GOT games and there are no fixes for it yet. My guess would be to say they fix it like they did with left orbit and say "it is supposed to be like that by design" or they do a code update and throw that in the wording. IMO, the entire CQ team at Stern should be let go because of the completely blatant flaws of the machine, who the heck knows what sort of long term effect this will have on the machine. With all the mods and fit fixes I have had to do with my machine, mine may outlast most others not because of that bit because it is laying dormant while I am deployed...... Lol