No one knows for sure. From my observation it looks like most on pinside have the issue, a few may be working properly, and I think most don't know there is an issue. A lot of first time owners who bought for the theme probably don't even know of pinside! Just my guess. Would love to see a poll. I really want to be optimistic that my game will come with a working full orbit shot.

So, end of the month, did it arrive yet???? Got Got?

When I have it you'll know. Haha

Has anyone else had their drop target get hit solid and it not drop? My wife and I have had this happen to us both. Makes it difficult to make the ramp shot. Or is it a rule thing? We are still learning the rules. Thank you

Unless I'm misunderstanding, you should be able to adjust where the drop sits in terms of flushness with the playfield when down. I had to do this with my MET as one of the drops were too high after it was down. It made my ball stick in the graveyard. Haven't had to do it on GOT, but you should be able to. This will keep the ball from projecting off the target.

This usually caused by the target spring not being tight enough to drop the target on super fast hits. You can find the target sprint and pull it down and latch it half way. That usually solves it. See the Metallica drop target threads with lots of photos.

Also before anyone sands the top of the drop target, make sure your target is flush. The height of the drop target is adjustable under the playfield.

I'll check it out. Thank you

Welcome to the world of Stern drop targets.
Thats why I NEVER aim for the ship on my StarTrek, direct/hard hits just don't register (or maybe only 1 in 5 or so)
Gave up in tweaking the mechanism and fixing that problem and just accepted the fact, that these single drop targets stink.

The drop targets are a simple mechanism. It's a spring pulling down on a target and a target plastic resting on a shelf/ledge. If the ball hits the target, it knocks the target back and the spring should pull the target down. If this isn't happening when the ball hits it fast it's because the target rebounds into the shelf before the spring can lower it below that point.

The fixes are quite simple and it does not require hours of tweaking and giving up in failure. Tightening the spring almost always solves it as it allows the target to be pulled below the shelf level before the target can rebound. In some cases making the shelf less deep also helps. The whole thing can be fixed properly and permanently in about 10 minutes.

The same can be done to fix machine gunning targets in reverse. In this case, the problem is the target can't get onto the shelf on the coil reset. Here you either widen the shelf with a thin piece of plastic or you make sure you coil is sending the target high enough to get above the ledge etc

There is a lot of data in the avengers and Metallica threads on how to fix these things

I had the same issue on ACDC. The cannon would not drop a target if hit in the center. It was fixed by holding the drop and pushing it back while forcing the sill over the edge. You can easily feel it by hand and just wearing it down a bit made it much easier to drop.

New to this sorry. I just got a premium. When you guys say oribt problem..... My shots always go around into the pops is this correct? from left to right into pops. from right to left into pops and ocassionaly all the way around I'm guessing depending on code? My right weak flipper makes it tough some of the time though the game is playable. Going to call Stern tomorrow.

In some modes the right gate opens, ostensibly allowing for a complete clockwise orbit. Usually the ball falls into the pops before reaching the gate.

Just got a premium myself same problem no full left orbit shots waiting to hear back from the originator to send my money and get this fixed

So I can confirm this issue, I pulled the upper Playfield off again today and noticed that the left screw was poking down and the ball was touching it as it rolled past. I didn't notice the right screw touching anything, but I'm going to add a couple washers to both screws so that the path is clear for the ball to roll through.

image_(resized).jpeg

sign me up for this

This alone didn't fix the left orbit shot. I'm going to get some thin steel on Monday to make a shield for the diverter gap, hopefully that solves my issues

I have to say, I'm in the market for a new pin and am very interested in GOT. Likely ready to order one this week. But all these reports of basic QC issues is turning me off. And for a game that was 2 years in the making? And was released in Sept but games still now 5 months later only trickling out?

It would sure be nice to hear from Stern on these issues (node boards, flippers, orbit, etc).

Do it,it's still a ton of fun.
The issues will get worked out.

Love playing mine

Nice catch. I am going to check mine tonight.

I would be interested to know how good the shield bracket works for others.

I think that the real problem is the angle of the left orbit. Way too much room to rattle if you don't hit it absolutely perfectly.

Not hating on your shield at all.

I'm just curious to know how many other people need adjustments beyond the screws on the left ball guide / the shield / the smaller rubber on the lanes to the pops.

I do not believe the shield alone will lead to near perfect orbit shots during real gameplay. Without the shield orbits would never work, for sure.

I'd be happy to be wrong. Do you have a video of it working from a flipper shot with the playfield in the cabinet and not in the service position?

Dude, just watch the second video on the first post. Capgun did like four left orbits without any issues play field looked down to me. I have read that some people are having issues with there interlock, maybe thats your bug.

I want to see it working with the game reassembled and the shot coming from the flipper, not a handball.

The game clearly isn't on in that video. Also the left control gate isn't installed.

Who cares if the orbit works great when you handball it with the glass off? I want it to work consistently when actually playing the game, which is all that matters.

If you're not happy with your order, you probably should just keep it and shut your mouth since Cap is heading to Afghanistan in April to put his ass in the line of fire. Who really cares about a few bucks when you look at it that way?

Not me. Cap...you'll get no bitching or refund requests from me. Keep up the great work!

This has nothing to do with whether or not I think the shield bracket is a good product. I've clearly said that it is.

I also never asked for my money back, nor do I want it.

The problem with hand balling the shot starting at the left orbit entrance is that the ball behaves differently when it's coming off of the flipper. The ball has more momentum coming off of the flipper and it doesn't hug the ball guide as cleanly as you show in your video, at least on my game. I believe this is because the ball is bouncing off of the left orbit guide a little and losing momentum near the top above the pops unless you have an absolute perfect shot.

I have spent 8 hours working on this problem over the last two days, including some advice from you over the phone. I can get the same hand balled results as in your video, but not coming off of the flipper. I'm at a 10% success rate, which is up from 0%. I've removed the control gates. I've remove the post lanes. To me it's all about the difficulty of getting the ball to ride that left orbit cleanly, before it gets to the diverter / gate.

Here are some things that I think would be helpful info for others trying to troubleshoot this:

Show a video of you making the shot with the flipper. What's your success rate out of 10 tries?

Show the angle that your spinner is mounted at (both the left and right side) as there is variance here.

Show the way that your right flipper is aligned against the mark in the playfield.

I suspect I have a node board going bad. Could that be impacting flipper strength?

This whole thing reminds me of the original TWD skillshot. You were supposed to hit the tower target but most if not all production games couldn't do that from a plunge, so they removed that aspect of the code.

Barring a hardware fix I wouldn't be surprised if future code took out the concept of full left orbit shots for this game.

So pinside isn't the place to talk about troubleshooting issues with pinball machines? Get a grip dude. This has nothing to do with his service, which is admirable.

I didn't quote you, so YOU get a grip. My point is that I wouldn't return a part that's that inexpensive, especially after he took the time to troubleshoot the problem, create a fix, and then craft and ship them. It would be up to me to make the fix work if it's been proven to work in videos. The fact that he's a serviceman makes me feel even better about letting him keep my money.

His fix is a hell of a lot better than the one Stern has sent me, that's for damn sure.

Who asked your opinion? What...do you think this is your thread or something?

Wait till his node 8 boards start crapping out like mine have.

Could it be flipper angle? Can you take a pic of the alignment of your right flipper? What pitch is your game at?

Thanks a lot for the feedback. Great to hear. I agree with you that things will likely all work out. Its just too bad that the game is having this and other QC issues that you would think would have been noticed earlier by stern.

And also, thanks to Capguntrooper for identifying the issue and crafting a good fix. And especially for your service to those of us who enjoy the freedom that you protect. Big thank you from Canada!

I sent a email to my distributer about this issue, he's going to relay the problem to his rep at stern.

The more people contacting stern about this the better, and the more likely that a fix will be sent out.

I took some slow motion video on my game and believe that the problem happens before the ball gets to the diverter.

Cap, I know you're sick of me asking questions but you have more experience here than anyone else. Can you take a picture of what your ball guide alignment looks like at the transition to the diverter arm? I suspect that mine needs to be loosened and pushed back toward the diverter arm a little.

Code update (1.22), to hopefully fix some bugs and help diagnose orbit issues:

LE/PREMIUM V1.22 - January 26, 2016
===================================
New:
- Added ORBITS test to DIAGNOSTICS menu.
Allows testing of left and right orbit action outside
of gameplay.

Fixes:
- Fixed an issue introduced in v1.20 in which the flipper power
would be turned off for 1 second under certain conditions.
- Fixed an issue in which the code on the topper node board was
not getting updated under certain conditions.
- Added topper effects.

Tweaks:
- Upper flipper - decreased flip power, increased hold power.

So the slow motion part of this video didn't work but I'm posting it anyway. There's some dead time in the middle of the video, my apologies for that.

In this video:

My game is leveled with a 6.5 degree pitch.
The shield bracket is installed.
The left gate is removed.
I am making the shot from the flipper.
My horizontal diverter arm is flush against the ball guide.

Based on this I think that my left orbit guide is mounted too far forward. The ball launches off the end of it and doesn't roll along the diverter/shield/into the right orbit.

Anyone have any other ideas?

If this is the wrong thread let me know. But what are the signs of a node board going out? I just placed my order for my GOT LE and I'm trying to get ready. Just wanted to know what to watch for on that issue.

Thank goodness I'm an NIB Avengers owner. Got me dialed in to adjusting machines for solid game play so I think I'm ready for the work.