Quoted from snyper2099:I know that but, will Flight 2K run with six digit wiring+displays?
Yes, I am running an Alltek mpu using the flight2k dip switch designation with a sb-300.
Machine uses 6 digit displays. The 7th digit was a dummy zero.
I have alligator clips on sb-300 now until my connector is delivered.
This was built from a silverball mania cab.
-Mike
20230424_200946.jpg20230424_201111.jpgQuoted from Grizlyrig:Yes, I am running an Alltek mpu using the flight2k dip switch designation with a sb-300.
Machine uses 6 digit displays. The 7th digit was a dummy zero.
I have alligator clips on sb-300 now until my connector is delivered.
This was built from a silverball mania cab.
-Mike
[quoted image][quoted image]
Nice,
Why didn’t you go ahead and do 7 digits?
By the way, I’m re-drawing the backglass to reproduce with the correct colors. and I can produce cabinet decals , pm me if interested
Quoted from snyper2099:Ok, I read those instructions for 6 digit displays and it seems fairly straightforward, moving pins around and adding one... thank you.
Sound wiring question: looking over the SB-300 schematics... what all wires do I need to connect here @ bottom of the PCB?
@J2: Just these two? [pin 6] 11.9VDC and [pin 3] GND ?
J3: pin 8 [speaker -] and pin 9 [speaker +]
and [pin 1] and [pin 3] goes to the volume pot. ? @ 25K ohm, 5 watt?
Could someone check there are only actually six wires total at the bottom of their SB-300 PCB connectors for J2+J3? I assume if I check Nine Ball the connectors @ J2 and J3 would be the same as Gamatron?
I'm also assuming Gamatron has no knocker because it says to disconnect it in the kit instructions?
[quoted image]
If you wanted, since you’re running f2k, add speech back in, and possibly the knocker
Quoted from Chosen_S:Why didn’t you go ahead and do 7 digits?
I found no need as I am not going to roll the score. The added zero is only for looks and to feel good about a high score.
Another example is I use the ÷10 roms on my meteor.
I think machines going into the billions scores isn't needed. It just makes players feel more successful.
-Mike
I’m sorry, I should’ve clarified. The Gamatron back glass has a false zero. My desire is to remove that false Zero and to install seven digit displays.
This makes the game look more complete, in my opinion, of course. Some guys may really love having the whole zero to tell the story of gamatron
Quoted from Chosen_S:I’m sorry, I should’ve clarified. The Gamatron back glass has a false zero. My desire is to remove that false Zero and to install seven digit displays.
This makes the game look more complete, in my opinion, of course. Some guys may really love having the whole zero to tell the story of gamatron
And some guys just have a full set of working 6 digit displays and want to use what they already have in hand. 
Quoted from snyper2099:And some guys just have a full set of working 6 digit displays and want to use what they already have in hand.
True true, those led displays looked brand new
Need some Gamatron expert advice. Mike? I have some connectors from the playfield and I don’t know what to do with them.
The connector in the last two
Pics. No idea where it goes? Is it for the lower left connector on the lamp driver board?
Next, the lower cabinet connector in first picture. Do I just combine all the wires from both connectors to make one connector? Just plug in the Gamatron one? What do the three wires farthest to the right do? (I’m using a lost world cabinet harness.). I am confused on what steps in the conversion instructions I follow (if any) and what ones I ignore since I’m not using the Gamatron pcb from the kit.
So far, all I have done to modify the harness is the instructions directly under “For games with 6 digit displays.”
07DD4C78-5D4F-427F-B991-B046139BB1A2 (resized).jpeg52D253AB-D342-400B-9F9C-397DA4DD2512 (resized).jpeg80BB7FFE-22C3-4A4D-8F44-8E2DA92EE138 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from snyper2099:Need some Gamatron expert advice. Mike? I have some connectors from the playfield and I don’t know what to do with them.
The connector in the last two
Pics. No idea where it goes? Do I leave it disconnected?
Next, the cabinet connector in first picture. Do I just combine all the wires from both connectors to make one connector? What do the three wires farthest to the right do? (I’m using a lost world cabinet harness.). I am confused on what steps in the conversion instructions I follow and what ones I ignore since I’m not using the Gamatron pcb from the kit.
So far, all I have done to modify the harness is the instructions under “For games with 6 digit displays.”
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Sorry I can’t go look right now, but there are unused connectors on the playfield because they wired it for bally and stern
Quoted from Chosen_S:Sorry I can’t go look right now, but there are unused connectors on the playfield because they wired it for bally and stern
I thought there was only one unused connector, the POWER one for either -18 OR (Molex plug style) -54 rectifier boards.
There are instructions deep in the manual on moving pins in the (trans driver board) connector in my first pic. Not sure if I should do those steps or not.
In the two photos you will see 2 connectors that for me are unused.
Before you jump down my throat for hacking...
Yes at the moment I still have a paperclip in a connector with alligator jumper as I was looking for 12v for sb-300.
Also note that this is a Silverball Mania harness and cab, your results may differ from mine and I am very far from a professional.
-Mike
20230427_183800.jpg20230427_183842.jpgQuoted from Grizlyrig:I will be working on this next.
Vsu-100 in Gamatron.
-Mike
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gamatron-vsu-100
I bought one of those vsu boards
I’d like to tackle that some time
Ok, I think I figured it out. I need to splice these 4 wires in this picture to the old connector and you do not plug in the old connector, just the new one. I believe these are for the flipper buttons…
That other plug that goes to the lower left on the lamp board has four wires you are supposed to splice in that are for tilt, game over, extra ball, and hstd. I only really care about the tilt bulb in the head but I am skipping that for now.
Here’s what I did:
FBAB60D8-5F6A-44B1-AC2C-C8C3F56B1D25 (resized).jpegI discovered that "classic Bally" potentiometers are NOT the same as the ones that Stern used in their classic games.
If your classic Stern [or Gamatron running a SB-300] is missing it's pot. to adjust the sounds...
buy one of these. https://www.parts-express.com/25K-Ohm-Potentiometer-023-540?quantity=1
I bought a couple and including shipping, it was under $10.
I installed this 25K ohm POT and I can confirm that it works great for the Stern SB-300 sound board.
I just made my own sound cables using some old PC ribbon cables with the last two pins bent out and now the Flight2K sounds on my Gamatron are working!
37C239D0-562F-40A8-BAAC-720B2F9E0F86 (resized).jpeg9DF81658-F2B2-4BA9-9F8F-DE08D1D41860 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from snyper2099:I discovered that "classic Bally" potentiometers are NOT the same as the ones that Stern used in their classic games.
If your classic Stern [or Gamatron running a SB-300] is missing it's pot. to adjust the sounds...
buy one of these. https://www.parts-express.com/25K-Ohm-Potentiometer-023-540?quantity=1
I bought a couple and including shipping, it was under $10.
I installed this 25K ohm POT and I can confirm that it works great for the Stern SB-300 sound board.
I just made my own sound cables using some old PC ribbon cables with the last two pins bent out and now the Flight2K sounds on my Gamatron are working!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Great job!
I ran into some issues with the game booting consistently. Fairly odd behavior...
When powered on for the 2nd,3rd,4th time ect. after putting in the desired "option" settings and then also after sitting cold overnight, the game would not boot the next day until I removed the batteries.
If I removed them and booted the game and set the "option" settings up again, the game would then consistently boot 10,15,20 times that day BUT after it sat overnight, it would not NEVER boot again the next day.
But, once I removed the batteries, all is well and the game has booted over 50 times with no issues now. Only annoying issues with this is adding credits but it holds 40 credits so, I'm just leaving batteries out.
I tried a different known good MPU, power supply, driver board, transformer, and different holders, different batteries (even a coin one) and am convinced that there is no solution to this odd problem. And before someone asks , yes I did use a diode in the battery holder.
I even had the same thing happen when on the test banch using an ATX power supply! So that eliminated every cause but for multiple tested MPUs... oh well.
Maybe NVRAM would "resolve" this but, I don't really care enough to use NVRAM and I fear that it would exhibit the same behavior if I ordered and installed it.
Just posting here to let other potential owners know of this odd issue. Seems to be MPU/settings/Flight 2K code related. I found some other chatter about it in the F2K owners thread so I am just assuming that I am seeing the same symptoms here, since Gamatron uses the same code.
Quoted from snyper2099:I ran into some issues with the game booting consistently. Fairly odd behavior...
When powered on for the 2nd,3rd,4th time ect. after putting in the desired "option" settings and then also after sitting cold overnight, the game would not boot the next day until I removed the batteries.
If I removed them and booted the game and set the "option" settings up again, the game would then consistently boot 10,15,20 times that day BUT after it sat overnight, it would not NEVER boot again the next day.
But, once I removed the batteries, all is well and the game has booted over 50 times with no issues now. Only annoying issues with this is adding credits but it holds 40 credits so, I'm just leaving batteries out.
I tried a different known good MPU, power supply, driver board, transformer, and different holders, different batteries (even a coin one) and am convinced that there is no solution to this odd problem. And before someone asks , yes I did use a diode in the battery holder.
I even had the same thing happen when on the test banch using an ATX power supply! So that eliminated every cause but for multiple tested MPUs... oh well.
Maybe NVRAM would "resolve" this but, I don't really care enough to use NVRAM and I fear that it would exhibit the same behavior if I ordered and installed it.
Just posting here to let other potential owners know of this odd issue. Seems to be MPU/settings/Flight 2K code related. I found some other chatter about it in the F2K owners thread so I am just assuming that I am seeing the same symptoms here, since Gamatron uses the same code.
I’m using the stern mpu200
Here’s what my boards look like
Removing, rams and cutting a trace on u16 or remove u16. and setting mpu jumpers correctly
The blue wire to the ide port is not necessary unless you want to eliminate the single jumper from the psm to the upper pin on the mpu
IMG_3729 (resized).jpegIMG_4426 (resized).jpegIMG_6505 (resized).jpegIMG_6570 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Chosen_S:You’re using the psm board
But I'm not using a PSM board, I don't have one. I am using a Stern MPU with F2K roms and a stock Stern sb-300 sound board. I took a great deal of time and care documenting my process on paper so that someone else could also do this if all they had was a Gamatron playfield.
Quoted from snyper2099:But I'm not using a PSM board, I don't have one. I am using a Stern MPU with F2K roms and a stock Stern sb-300 sound board. I took a great deal of time and care documenting my process on paper so that someone else could also do this if all they had was a Gamatron playfield.
Ah, that’s right, sorry
How about installing a reset generator? Maybe it would help force a trip on the circuit
Quoted from Dan1733:Id love to buy one if anyone is selling. Or trade. Put it next to Segasa Star Wars.
I would make a tier 7 contribution.
I have a Sonic Pole position project with your name on it. 
I do need one. Would be interested if it’s in good condition but “expensive” ? Not sure what that means. If it’s more expensive than a typical backglass 200-300 plus shipping then I would not be interested.
Wanted to ask about the ribbon cable. I've seen many complaints about it and doing things to replace it with IDE. Wouldn't the commonly available Ms. Pacman 40 pin cable be a suitable replacement? Assuming it is, that will be my plan of attack for that particular issue.
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:Found a robot in disguise today. I'm in the club with a currently non working Gamatron. Super excited.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Nice! Man I wish I could find one of these. Living in AK, I say my chances are slim to none though.
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:Wanted to ask about the ribbon cable. I've seen many complaints about it and doing things to replace it with IDE. Wouldn't the commonly available Ms. Pacman 40 pin cable be a suitable replacement? Assuming it is, that will be my plan of attack for that particular issue.
https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=MPRIBBON
I think my sterns have 2-20 pin ribbon cables. Those are easy to source too. I make my own though. If you can't find something suitable let me know and I can probably make a set and send to you.
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:Wanted to ask about the ribbon cable. I've seen many complaints about it and doing things to replace it with IDE. Wouldn't the commonly available Ms. Pacman 40 pin cable be a suitable replacement? Assuming it is, that will be my plan of attack for that particular issue.
https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=MPRIBBON
Congrats, I saw that machine on ebay for maybe 1 minute! LOL
that mikes arcade mspac cable may work, but youll still have issues once in a while because of its not great tech. the combination of the 40 pin sockets, 40 pin connector and ribbon cable and a machine getting warm and vibrating from use will cause intermittent problems, hard wiring a regular IDE connector to each board has fixed many issues for some of our gamatron machines
Quoted from Chosen_S:Congrats, I saw that machine on ebay for maybe 1 minute! LOL
that mikes arcade mspac cable may work, but youll still have issues once in a while because of its not great tech. the combination of the 40 pin sockets, 40 pin connector and ribbon cable and a machine getting warm and vibrating from use will cause intermittent problems, hard wiring a regular IDE connector to each board has fixed many issues for some of our gamatron machines
Thanks. I don't believe this game was listed anywhere, that I know of. I reached out to a guy about a jukebox he was selling and it turned out he had a pin too. Could have knocked me over with a feather when he said Gamatron. I wonder if a line of hot glue would help the ribbon cable like Stern uses on theirs. Either way, it'll be a fun project. Been looking for one for years. Looks like the backglass has a couple of little issues of missing ink, but one is in the black and I have an ideal for the other area. Also missing 2 of the fake zeros unless they are in the cabinet. Haven't set it up at home yet.
This is a mixture of dirt and mouse pee. Lost more ink removing tape and pee. Gotta clean and work with what ya got on this game. Parts aren't abundant. I think I'll keep it in the Mata Hari cabinet too. The back story is, she's the evil woman that's controlling the robot. Boom, nailed it!
20231127_201243 (resized).jpgQuoted from RC_like_the_cola:This is a mixture of dirt and mouse pee. Lost more ink removing tape and pee. Gotta clean and work with what ya got on this game. Parts aren't abundant. I think I'll keep it in the Mata Hari cabinet too. The back story is, she's the evil woman that's controlling the robot. Boom, nailed it![quoted image]
Awesome, great collaboration
Ugh, I wish that guy that is working on the backglass would finish his job
Quoted from Chosen_S:Ugh, I wish that guy that is working on the backglass would finish his job
Me three. LOL, I see what you did there.
While tearing down the mouse pee playfield, I broke one arm off one of the spinners. Can that be fixed with some rigid wire? These spinner brackets are super rigid. Never had issue getting a spinner remover from a brake before.
Ugh. Broke a part and cut myself. Great start.
They can be repaired, but bending the wire can be a be a bit of a pain. This is the wire you'll need -- .047 gauge piano wire. I got this at Hobby Lobby.
More info here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/is-there-a-way-to-add-wire-on-spinner#post-6038811
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:While tearing down the mouse pee playfield, I broke one arm off one of the spinners. Can that be fixed with some rigid wire? These spinner brackets are super rigid. Never had issue getting a spinner remover from a brake before.
Ugh. Broke a part and cut myself. Great start.
Honestly, I wouldnt attempt a repair, it will just break again. don't remove the other one either, remove the whole bracket it resides in... buy a classic stern spinner and replace it, youll have to bend it a little to get it just right.
Spinners have been missing from every gamatron I have come across
bummer this happened
Quoted from Chosen_S:Honestly, I wouldnt attempt a repair, it will just break again. don't remove the other one either, remove the whole bracket it resides in... buy a classic stern spinner and replace it, youll have to bend it a little to get it just right.
Spinners have been missing from every gamatron I have come across
bummer this happened
I have one of these in my parts stash. I can paint it black and likely save the decal from the original spinner. I really hate causing damage to an original part. I wanted the bracket separated to tumble all the metal.
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=55-10778-004
Also, before I break it, does the pop cap just snap on and off? No screws and I don't want to break something else.
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:Also, before I break it, does the pop cap just snap on and off? No screws and I don't want to break something else.
Yes, just wiggle it out
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:I have one of these in my parts stash. I can paint it black and likely save the decal from the original spinner. I really hate causing damage to an original part. I wanted the bracket separated to tumble all the metal.
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=55-10778-004
Nice, that may work well.
I hate messing up original stuff too, especially breaking plastics on accident
Playfield topside nearly done. Still have to address the pop bumper. Wasn't able to save the spinner decal so if you have a file I could print, that'd be great @chosen_s.
Here's how it looks today and close ups of the worst of it.
20231206_144749 (resized).jpg20231206_144755 (resized).jpg20231207_121246 (resized).jpgAnyone know how I can safely separate the pop cap from the body? Don't wanna break something else. It seems there are plastic barbs that snap in and make it hard to back out.
Sounds like it could possibly be glued in there with adhesive... Mine just popped right off. If you do destroy it, I do believe the BASE where it mounts is a standard size plastic body (and standard red pop cap) that you can simply buy from Marco and then use standard screws if you do go that route.
Maybe someone else can confirm that the base is the "standard size" part. The odd part of the assembly is the plastic ring and the underside bits.
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:Anyone know how I can safely separate the pop cap from the body? Don't wanna break something else. It seems there are plastic barbs that snap in and make it hard to back out.
Maybe you can pinch the red knobs with pliers and help push the knob through the hole??
I seem to remember that the body is a standard pop, bumper body, but it’s been many years since I have taken mine off
Quoted from Chosen_S:Maybe you can pinch the red knobs with pliers and help push the knob through the hole??
I seem to remember that the body is a standard pop, bumper body, but it’s been many years since I have taken mine off
Good thinking. I'll give that a shot tonight.
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:Good thinking. I'll give that a shot tonight.
Ended up snipping the red barbs off and the cap came off. Still has a good friction grip so hopefully it won't fly off during play.
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