Galaxy
Stern Electronics, 1980I tested all other settings just to make sure. 12 did the same thing. Has numbers in both players and if you push credit button cycles player 2 to 5 then player 1 to 2. Till 4 is in player 1 and 1 in player 2. Then it gets stuck there and neither changes. Hope this helps.
Quoted from Jedijoe317:I tested all other settings just to make sure. 12 did the same thing. Has numbers in both players and if you push credit button cycles player 2 to 5 then player 1 to 2. Till 4 is in player 1 and 1 in player 2. Then it gets stuck there and neither changes. Hope this helps.
Please pull the new version when you get a chance and give it a shot.
https://github.com/BallySternOS/Galaxy2021
It should come up as version 2021 / 13 / 3 / 3
I've fixed the adjustment prompts and Coins per Credit settings.
Note: you'll also need to update the sound files on your SD card to get the new adjustment prompts
Thanks again DickHamill that worked. Everything is working great now.
I updated the code and sound files. I can hear sound and callouts, but no music. I changed it in the settings through the coin door. Is there something I am missing? Note: The music never worked for me since the first time installed.
Quoted from SR230CC:I updated the code and sound files. I can hear sound and callouts, but no music. I changed it in the settings through the coin door. Is there something I am missing? Note: The music never worked for me since the first time installed.
Most likely you need to either:
1) re-flash your WAV trigger board to version 1.3
or
2) change BSOS_Config.h to be compatible with the older version of the WAV trigger by commenting out the 1p3 line and uncommenting the USE_WAV_TRIGGER, like this:
#define USE_WAV_TRIGGER
//#define USE_WAV_TRIGGER_1p3
The first option is a much better choice, but re-flashing those things isn't particularly easy:
https://robertsonics.com/wav-trigger-downloads/
Quoted from DickHamill:Most likely you need to either:
1) re-flash your WAV trigger board to version 1.3
or
2) change BSOS_Config.h to be compatible with the older version of the WAV trigger by commenting out the 1p3 line and uncommenting the USE_WAV_TRIGGER, like this:
#define USE_WAV_TRIGGER
//#define USE_WAV_TRIGGER_1p3
The first option is a much better choice, but re-flashing those things isn't particularly easy:
https://robertsonics.com/wav-trigger-downloads/
edit: this re-flash thing is the worst part about dealing with the WAV trigger. I've talked to Jamie Robertson about his utility, but it is what it is. The update is necessary to allow the background music to play without being supplanted by other sound effects, but there is a less than optimal workaround (see number 2 above).
Here is a little guide for the people interested in making the audio adapter themselves to utilize the stock cabinet speaker with the updated code.
Parts list: https://a.co/689JRAV
Mini Grabber Test Hook -> 2.2k 1/2watt Resistor -> (-)10uF 25v or 50v Cap (+) -> 2x 1k 1/2watt resistor -> Pos / Neg of headphone repair cable
*you can leave ground floating on headphone jack repair wire.
All I ask i give this post a thumbs up if you found it helpful and to let others know it worked for you.
Audio Adapter.pdfAudioAdapter (resized).jpegExample (resized).jpgSo I decided to try and update my Galaxy and I'm having issues with the sound/effects.
I have built the BSOS Rev 3 board and am able to get the new code up and running but I don't get any sound from the wav trigger board. I've tried connecting a set of headphones directly into the 3.5mm port and nothing. I'm leaning towards a faulty board on this since when I try to upload the new firmware I always get a "can't connect" error message.
I have made sure to toggle the "load/run" switch on the board accordingly and I do get LED activity on it when I switch to run but again, no sound. I've changed th configurations on setting 14 to include sound and effects per the instructions.
So before I go through and get a replacement board I thought I'd reach out and see if I've overlooked something. Maybe I've overlooked something in the config file?
Quoted from perry1670:So I decided to try and update my Galaxy and I'm having issues with the sound/effects.
I have built the BSOS Rev 3 board and am able to get the new code up and running but I don't get any sound from the wav trigger board. I've tried connecting a set of headphones directly into the 3.5mm port and nothing. I'm leaning towards a faulty board on this since when I try to upload the new firmware I always get a "can't connect" error message.
I have made sure to toggle the "load/run" switch on the board accordingly and I do get LED activity on it when I switch to run but again, no sound. I've changed th configurations on setting 14 to include sound and effects per the instructions.
So before I go through and get a replacement board I thought I'd reach out and see if I've overlooked something. Maybe I've overlooked something in the config file?
I'm assuming you have lit LED(s) on the WAV trigger?
There's a tiny button on the WAV trigger. When you press it, the device should play one of the sounds on the SD card. Does that work?
The LED on the WAV trigger does not stay constantly lit, it does pulse at a regular interval, approx. every 4 seconds. When I press the button on the WAV trigger, no sound.
Verified wav files on on the SD card (32Gb Sandisk). Removed the board from the BSOS and plugged used a wall wart to power it, no sound still.
Quoted from perry1670:The LED on the WAV trigger does not stay constantly lit, it does pulse at a regular interval, approx. every 4 seconds. When I press the button on the WAV trigger, no sound.
Verified wav files on on the SD card (32Gb Sandisk). Removed the board from the BSOS and plugged used a wall wart to power it, no sound still.
I’ve had a couple of bad ones. Not many. Flashing LED means your are powered and ready. Start by going to the robertsonics website and the wav trigger page. At the bottom of the downloads page is some zipped samples in the correct format. Try that. Press the little test button. It will play the lowest number file. I initially had a lot of issues getting the format right. The LED will be solid while playing. If it’s now solid and still no sound, connect a small speaker to the speaker pads on the board and try again.
And make sure you are using a high quality MicroSD card. Low quality (cheaper ones) will either not play anything in the WAV Player or they will sound intermittent.
Thanks for the info.
I went and downloaded the sample files, still no luck. When the test button is pressed the red LED does not come on solid but continues it's pulsing. Also tried another MicroSD card with the same results. Interesting read about the MicroSD card and latency on the website though.
At any rate, I'm calling the trigger DOA and will get a new one.
I appreciate the response, thanks.
Added 19 months ago:Update: New wav trigger came and was able to update this one. You all are correct in that it is a very specific (and kinda painful) set of steps to get the firmware flashed. Inserted SD card, still no work. The long and short is that the board does not like 32GB Sandisk cards apparently(I used two seperate 32GB cards, same issue) . I swapped out for a 16Gb Sandisk and boom, wav triggers worked perfectly fine.
I'm not sure if it the model number or the size that the wav board doesn't like but maybe someone else can chime in with the size of card used?
Regardless, it's up and going and it is definitely a worthwhile upgrade!
Can now plug an Arduino right into the replacement mpus starting with ones shipped October 2022.
The 6802 cpu chip at u9 needs removed (address bus contention) and two jumper shunts near the Arduino socket gets shifted to the Arduino labeled positions (external divide clock by four).
20221005_110958 (resized).jpgQuoted from perry1670:Thanks for the info.
I went and downloaded the sample files, still no luck. When the test button is pressed the red LED does not come on solid but continues it's pulsing. Also tried another MicroSD card with the same results. Interesting read about the MicroSD card and latency on the website though.
At any rate, I'm calling the trigger DOA and will get a new one.
I appreciate the response, thanks.Added 6 days ago: Update: New wav trigger came and was able to update this one. You all are correct in that it is a very specific (and kinda painful) set of steps to get the firmware flashed. Inserted SD card, still no work. The long and short is that the board does not like 32GB Sandisk cards apparently(I used two seperate 32GB cards, same issue) . I swapped out for a 16Gb Sandisk and boom, wav triggers worked perfectly fine.
I'm not sure if it the model number or the size that the wav board doesn't like but maybe someone else can chime in with the size of card used?
Regardless, it's up and going and it is definitely a worthwhile upgrade!
I use these 32GB Sandisk UHC-1 MicroSD cards. I have used there 16GB too.
SanDisk 32GB (Pack of 2) Ultra... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08J4HJ98L
I tried other manufacturers. Some in the batch either didn’t work at all or caused distortion on the WAV Player. They where fine in my laptop. Also the others where slightly different in dimensions. Did not insert into the holder on the WAV player smoothly and actually broke the holder in some cases.
Quoted from sethbenjamin:I knew the playfield design was holding a lot of untapped potential, but when I loaned it to Dick I was *unprepared* for the degree to which he would turn the game on its ear.
Up next: Lightning!
Yes! I can't wait to get lightning code. I got Dicks code in Meteor, Trident, and of course Galaxy. All killer upgrades. I agree...Galaxy is soooo much better with the new code.
Just ordered from Troxel for Galaxy. Can't wait. I might delve into some coding myself with a kit for my Space Invaders...
DickHamill would something software related make the pops and slings suddenly mid game fire weak/soft? If I switch to running off original rules on the Alltech board everything goes back to normal. That’s what has lead my trouble shooting to the Arduno. Thanks for a point in the right direction.
The solenoid pulse is completely controlled by the software, not the hardware, so it's possible.
Dick can probably tell you where in the code, but if nothing changed in the code, it would be odd.
Quoted from Jedijoe317:DickHamill would something software related make the pops and slings suddenly mid game fire weak/soft? If I switch to running off original rules on the Alltech board everything goes back to normal. That’s what has lead my trouble shooting to the Arduno. Thanks for a point in the right direction.
Perhaps. As slochar mentioned, everything is controlled by the code. However, there are hardware dependencies, of course.
A video might help get to the bottom of the problem.
Here's a theory -- if you have an issue with J5, where the interrupt pin is getting intermittent contact because the board is warming up, I can imagine the problem you describe.
Here's why--Bally/Stern both used a special technique for slings/pops. If a switch registers as "closed", it could just be noise. So a valid closure for a switch is seen as "open" "closed" "closed". That's called software debouncing. This is described in Bally's Theory of Pinball (or something like that). It's the idea I copied.
However, for pops & slings, they wanted to be sure they had responsiveness, so they will activate the solenoid on the first sign of a "closed" switch, and then just hold on the solenoid if they see a valid closure of "open" "closed" "closed".
(the timing of this is based on the 120Hz interrupt from the zero-crossing)
If you have a sketchy connection to pin 34 (I think?), then you're not getting an interrupt every time, and you can experience weird behavior. Some of that weird behavior is getting the first solenoid response and then no follow-up solenoid because the switch appears to go back to open.
Questions:
Does it score those weak hits?
If you turn off/on immediately will the weak hits continue?
Any strange behavior of lamps/displays/sounds during the weak hits?
Can you post a video?
First video is original 1980 rules on the Alltech board and second video is 2021 rules on Arduno.
To answer your follow up questions @dickhamill. Right pop scores but the Left pop does not. You can see this in the video also.
I have cycled game on and off and since this started it has not gone away by doing that.
Everything else, lamps, sounds seem fine.
Should I try re loading the newest software back on the Arduno, to see if that does anything?
Thanks again
Quoted from DickHamill:However, for pops & slings, they wanted to be sure they had responsiveness, so they will activate the solenoid on the first sign of a "closed" switch, and then just hold on the solenoid if they see a valid closure of "open" "closed" "closed".
This is not 100% correct, the solenoid will fire for a fixed interval no matter what at the first closure. The followup is for the scoring routines. The solenoid timer factor (this is from lightning, others similar; earlier games used a factor of #$03) is always #$05, so you get the full pulse regardless of what else the switch is doing. Sorry about the formatting there used to be tabs in it....
You could probably change your core OS to do the same, there would be zero reason to hold the solenoid on while the switch is closed, they shouldn't be dependent on each other. Williams solved this with an RC circuit on their special solenoids, bally did it the better in software.
; FIRE FAST REACT SOLENOID IN B
L1D2C:
lda $004D ; get solenoid timer
bne L1D3B ; no luck, branch
lda #$F0 ; setup mask to preserve continuous solenoids
anda $0092 ; get continuous solenoids
aba ; add the momentary
sta $0092 ; save
lda #$05 ; setup solenoid timer
sta $004D ; save solenoid timer
L1D3B:
rti ; return from interrupt
Quoted from Jedijoe317:First video is original 1980 rules on the Alltech board and second video is 2021 rules on Arduno.
To answer your follow up questions DickHamill. Right pop scores but the Left pop does not. You can see this in the video also.
I have cycled game on and off and since this started it has not gone away by doing that.
Everything else, lamps, sounds seem fine.
Should I try re loading the newest software back on the Arduno, to see if that does anything?
Thanks again
Thanks for the videos. If I'm understanding correctly -- this behavior happens after the machine has been on for some amount of time. When you start it cold, it operates okay, and then at some point the pops get weak and act like the 2nd video? If that's all true, I think it has something to do with the IRQ line, and is likely related to J5. Difficult to diagnose further from a distance. Any chance you could connect a jumper to R134 (if you're on an original board) to see if it's a physical problem with the IRQ line?
DickHamill the pops and slings went weak mid game Tuesday night playing 2021 rules. Turn off and back on or cold start they have remained weak since. If I turn off and flip switch to play original rules off of the Alltek board. They go back to normal. Turn off switch back to 2021 rules they go back to weak. That’s why I thought something in programming could be causing it. I did try un plugging Arduno and re seating it. Same results after that.
Quoted from slochar:This is not 100% correct, the solenoid will fire for a fixed interval no matter what at the first closure.
Forgive me, I said:
"closed" switch, and then just hold on the solenoid if they see a valid closure of "open" "closed" "closed".
I should have said:
"closed" switch, and then just hold on the solenoid *for a predetermined amount of time* if they see a valid closure of "open" "closed" "closed".
That's what my code does. In Galaxy2021.h, I have definitions for each of the "responsive" solenoids (pops & slings) to dictate how each of them behaves on seeing a "valid" closure. The solenoid fires immediately when it sees a "responsive" switch, and then hold on for a certain number of interrupts if it sees a "valid" closure, as described here:
instantaneous closure (resized).jpg
I suppose it's possible that Bally/Stern later changed their code to deviate from "Bally Theory of Operation"'s description of responsive/valid closures. I did not, and I'm not sure I see a reason to.
Quoted from slochar:there would be zero reason to hold the solenoid on while the switch is closed,
I don't do this.
Quoted from slochar:Williams solved this with an RC circuit on their special solenoids
A friend accidentally burned a solenoid in a Williams System 7 machine recently because a "Switch Solenoid Trigger" was gapped too tight and locked on. At his suggestion, in my Williams OS I now shut down the "blanking" if a special solenoid scoring switch is held on for too long (indicating that a triggered solenoid might be locked on).
Quoted from Jedijoe317:DickHamill the pops and slings went weak mid game Tuesday night playing 2021 rules. Turn off and back on or cold start they have remained weak since. If I turn off and flip switch to play original rules off of the Alltek board. They go back to normal. Turn off switch back to 2021 rules they go back to weak. That’s why I thought something in programming could be causing it. I did try un plugging Arduno and re seating it. Same results after that.
Ah, gotcha.
That does make a difference in my thinking.
It still strikes me as a switch timing issue, given the way that the code works. I have a diagnostics program I can point you at. Maybe that will give us a better idea of what's failing...
Quoted from Jedijoe317:DickHamill the pops and slings went weak mid game Tuesday night playing 2021 rules. Turn off and back on or cold start they have remained weak since. If I turn off and flip switch to play original rules off of the Alltek board. They go back to normal. Turn off switch back to 2021 rules they go back to weak. That’s why I thought something in programming could be causing it. I did try un plugging Arduno and re seating it. Same results after that.
If you can, this is the program you would run:
https://github.com/BallySternOS/BallySternOS/tree/master/MachineDiagnostics
You get the .ino, put it in a folder called "MachineDiagnostics" and then open it with the Arduino compiler.
Near the top of the file, you'll see a line like this:
#define BALLY_STERN_OS_HARDWARE_REV 4
Change that to 3, (I'm guessing you're running a Rev 3 board)
With the Arduino mounted on the pinball machine, and the machine on, plug the Arduino into a laptop (or nearby computer).
Note: I always test the USB ground against the pinball machine ground, or make sure that the computer isn't touching any metal on the pinball machine when I plug in. I've never had a ground fault failure, but I don't intend to. Maybe I'm just overly careful.
Under Tools > Serial Monitor, you'll pop up a monitor window. Set that to 115200 baud and watch the output of the tests that the Arduino conducts. If you post those results, perhaps we can get to the bottom of what's going on...
Thanks in advance!
Quoted from DickHamill:hold on the solenoid *for a predetermined amount of time* if they see a valid closure of "open" "closed" "closed".
yeah, that's the way they did it all the way up through the 6800 era at all the code I've looked at. Probably into the next era as well 6803....
It's a good system, and at bootup.... they set all the switches closed (initial, history) and I tried to figure out why for a while.... it's so they all get marked as 'stuck', so they never populate the action register. This way, if a coin switch is accidentally stuck, you won't get a free credit every time you turn on the machine. Very clever.
I should try 'sticking' a coin switch in system 6/7 and see what happens on bootup. Probably the same thing accomplished a different way. Coin handling is very convoluted on these games, probably so the operator won't get cheated. I can imagine a bug in the coin up happening on early models, it would have killed their reputation forever.
DickHamill It just keeps doing this nothing else.
46E5025A-35E7-43BB-A87C-309A907163E5 (resized).jpegDickHamill incase it may help. This occurred after replacing the caps on the driver board. It had originals. Would a change here affect the Arduno and not the Alltek? My next step was swap for an Alltek driver board. I have removed the Arduno for now
05DC4E17-94D2-46B4-B4E3-57A23D83E14F (resized).jpegQuoted from Jedijoe317:DickHamill It just keeps doing this nothing else.
[quoted image]
Please turn off the test clock by changing this line to 0, like this:
#define GENERATE_TEST_CLOCK 0
Re-run and copy & paste the output of a full cycle (between the "going to try again" loops). I'm most concerned about the output below what you screen capped above.
The caps on the driver board shouldn't change any behavior.
edit: and thanks for posting the results!
DickHamill here is a photo of the results after running per instructions above. I am a Max user and could not figure out how to copy and paste from the Arduno IDE for some reason.
B0C8C87F-6ADA-4147-A37C-F896F77EF7EE (resized).jpegQuoted from Jedijoe317:DickHamill here is a photo of the results after running per instructions above. I am a Max user and could not figure out how to copy and paste from the Arduno IDE for some reason.
[quoted image]
Okay - thx for the screen cap.
The clock speed is registering correctly now. No issues there.
The problem is definitely related to the interrupts. It's not seeing (or resetting) the interrupts on the PIA for whatever reason. You're getting 0.2 and 0.4 for numbers that should be 120 and 320.
Since you have a replacement MPU, it seems like J5 should be fine. You may have a continuity issue on the Arduino board.
Next, with the Arduino installed on the MPU, I would test the resistance between one of the 6821 ICs (either one--there are two of them on the Alltek), pin 37 or 38 (they're connected), and the pin on the Arduino labelled "D2". There should be close to 0 ohms between the PIA (pin 37) and the Arduino (pin D2).
Quoted from DickHamill:Most likely you need to either:
1) re-flash your WAV trigger board to version 1.3
or
2) change BSOS_Config.h to be compatible with the older version of the WAV trigger by commenting out the 1p3 line and uncommenting the USE_WAV_TRIGGER, like this:
#define USE_WAV_TRIGGER
//#define USE_WAV_TRIGGER_1p3
The first option is a much better choice, but re-flashing those things isn't particularly easy:
https://robertsonics.com/wav-trigger-downloads/
Thanks! That worked.
Quoted from Jedijoe317:Sorry for delay busy weekend.
I am getting 0 ohms between D2 and 36
That's really odd. It seems like something is physically wrong with the Arduino interface board. Where did you get it? RoyGBev? Troxel?
How is your patience level for more debugging? I can send you some more things to check (because I'm curious as to how this is failing), but it must be frustrating to keep digging into the head of the machine.
DickHamill i got it from
troxel
No worries, I like troubleshooting. That’s why I got into pinball
Quoted from Jedijoe317:DickHamill i got it from troxel
No worries, I like troubleshooting. That’s why I got into pinball
Okay - I set up a Rev 3 board here on an Alltek so I could try to reproduce what you're seeing (I don't have a Galaxy at the moment, but I used a Bally Supersonic as the test machine).
I found an issue with MachineDiagnostics program (sorry about that!). It was incorrectly testing the interrupts. I've fixed the code and pushed an update here:
https://github.com/BallySternOS/BallySternOS/tree/master/MachineDiagnostics
Can you grab that and run it just to verify that your hardware is seeing interrupts correctly?
Thanks.
Assuming that the new version reports interrupts running at approx 120 Hz and 420 Hz, next I'm going to ask you to re-upload latest Galaxy (from here https://github.com/BallySternOS/Galaxy2021) and let me know what versions show up in Player 1-4 on boot.
Thanks
DickHamill here are the results. They look good. Uploaded Galaxy2021 code again. Shows 13-3-3 on score. Started game and things are acting normal now
ABB06A45-8D2E-4A45-8A2B-C78F3575482D (resized).jpegC2253CBF-6AEA-4E42-8E1F-CEC85DE87308 (resized).jpegQuoted from Jedijoe317:DickHamill here are the results. They look good. Uploaded Galaxy2021 code again. Shows 13-3-3 on score. Started game and things are acting normal now
[quoted image][quoted image]
Ugh. 
I'm glad to hear it.
We didn't do anything though!
Hey all, this looks great. Keep up the good work.
Does anyone know if we can put an arduino on a gameplan board?
Quoted from JustJared:Does anyone know if we can put an arduino on a gameplan board?
Different processor architecture. Not to say it can't be done, but it's going to be different for sure. Since DickHamill already has a setup for williams system 6 boards where you replace the processor I don't see why not.
At some point it might make more sense to make the arduino a modular type of thing, where you just put it on a carrier board that fits the different architecture. So you have a carrier board for system 80, williams, etc. where the arduino is doing most of the heavy lifting, and the board is just the interface. You could design the carrier board to not have all the circuitry of the original board to keep the cost down.
OT from your post but a short rant- One thing I don't understand is every time someone comes up with a 2.0/2021 type of thing upgrade, invariably one of the first questions is "can you make it play the original code as well". How often do you really switch back and forth? Freeing replacements from this limitation would make it so much easier.
Quoted from slochar:Different processor architecture. Not to say it can't be done, but it's going to be different for sure. Since DickHamill already has a setup for williams system 6 boards where you replace the processor I don't see why not.
At some point it might make more sense to make the arduino a modular type of thing, where you just put it on a carrier board that fits the different architecture. So you have a carrier board for system 80, williams, etc. where the arduino is doing most of the heavy lifting, and the board is just the interface. You could design the carrier board to not have all the circuitry of the original board to keep the cost down.
All true. I've been thinking along those same lines--a board with buffered/protected ports and connectors/carriers/adapters for any machine. I would also de-multiplex the lines on J1 & J2 of Bally/Stern so that a shorted switch strobe doesn't glitch out the displays and lamps.
With original MPUs, my latest approach is to plug into the 40-pin processor socket, so that any 6800/6802/6808 machine can be done with one board (jumper for int/ext clock). Using that same strategy, a Z80 or 6502 board is not out of the question. I've sworn off doing a Gottlieb adapter though for a couple of reasons. The leading reason is because Gottlieb boards appear to be haunted (IMHO) and the ghosts travel through the Arduino and up into my laptop.
Quoted from slochar:OT from your post but a short rant- One thing I don't understand is every time someone comes up with a 2.0/2021 type of thing upgrade, invariably one of the first questions is "can you make it play the original code as well". How often do you really switch back and forth? Freeing replacements from this limitation would make it so much easier.
Tournaments/leagues is the best reason I've heard. People want to practice and play on stock code. I also think there is elegance in a non-destructive mod.
Quoted from JustJared:Hey all, this looks great. Keep up the good work.
Does anyone know if we can put an arduino on a gameplan board?
FYI - Sharpshooter is in the pipeline. It's just behind a lot of other titles at the moment.
Quoted from DickHamill:Tournaments/leagues is the best reason I've heard. People want to practice and play on stock code. I also think there is elegance in a non-destructive mod.
Since a lot of where my stuff ends up is in tournaments, mainly to remove randomness/progressive features, my experience is opposite on that. Of course the gameplay is the same in almost all cases, or tweaked slightly for the better (flight 2000 for instance, no relocking/stealing players' locks).
There is a very small group of players that exploit bugs in the original coding, they are against *any* changes (bug fix or not).
No one wants to lose a tournament based on some random result.
Reminds me of a tournament run by some local store in the 90s on a twilight zone. The player that won got the powerball and put it back in the gumball machine. Their score was 100's of millions higher than everyone else's.
Rom mods can be easily made switchable (I'm not sure I'd use 'destructive' to describe a rom mod.... you can always switch the rom back, and it would be trivial to add a switch to the enable lines... although that's kind of physically destructive to the eproms....)
All my games have ZIF sockets in their rom sockets for exactly this reason....
Why do people keep bringing this up? It’s just weird to me.
The fact is, Dick figured out a way to introduce new code so that anybody can switch back and forth at anytime. There’s a lot of wow factor in it when I show people the original code and then switch over to the new code, which alone is worth it. Not to mention that I play Stars at least half the time on the original code because the original is a really elegant risk/reward game, despite how very cool and fun the 2021 code is.
I really liked the PemBot code for PinBot, but it makes the game way harder, and the only way to swap back is by prying the rom chip off the board and swapping in the other. Consequently, I don’t play the new rule set.
Plus if you decide to sell a game and the buyer is some “I WANT EVERYTHING STOCK” weirdo, the way Dick has it worked out with a simple switch, the new code isn’t an issue.
I say hooray for keeping the old code as an option. Nothing about that seems to have made for an impediment to what can be done with new rules.
Quoted from sethbenjamin:Why do people keep bringing this up? It’s just weird to me.
People keep bringing it up to me since my rom mods are of the pry the chip out variety.... And it's always asked on any 2.0 type threads, or even when soren releases something, there's always someone or multiple someones who either ask for the switch back, or worse, hey you modified xxx in this game when are you going to do xyz in this complete other game. That's what's weird to me.
There's already an existing way to switch ROM based ones anyway you could burn a new multichip for the weebly and switch a dip, or stick a switch on the dip shunt header to go between the 512 socket and the multirom.
Quoted from slochar:Since a lot of where my stuff ends up is in tournaments, mainly to remove randomness/progressive features, my experience is opposite on that.
Gotcha - makes sense. I was thinking of my recent versions, which have only been used in a couple of league nights to the best of my knowledge.
Quoted from DickHamill:FYI - Sharpshooter is in the pipeline. It's just behind a lot of other titles at the moment.
Thank you for the heads up.
Quoted from DickHamill:Gotcha - makes sense. I was thinking of my recent versions, which have only been used in a couple of league nights to the best of my knowledge.
We play your rules at league night weekly for meteor, also have played galaxy in your rules a couple times a year. It is a blast everyone loves it. Thanks again
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