(Topic ID: 301547)

Guardians of the galaxy wireform mod

By Loganpinball

2 years ago


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  • 276 posts
  • 63 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 66 days ago by BubbaPin
  • Topic is favorited by 29 Pinsiders

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There are 276 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 6.
#101 2 years ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Would accommodating the existing flashers be possible if you welded two or three "tabs" to the existing wire (approx in the current locations of the flashers) and then had a simple flat piece of PETG made to match? (Upkick in Dallas can knock those out with polished edges in any shape in minutes). The existing flashers could connect to the 4 new custom PETG pieces, and the PETG pieces could be mounted to the new tabs with matching mounting holes.
Thoughts?

Putting tabs on the rails is no problem. I guess I need to put original flashers on the rail to know for sure.

2 1/2 hours making hexagons!
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#102 2 years ago

I completed one left side rail today. It took about 5 1/2 hours. I sanded, stoned and polished this rail and here are pictures of that rail as completed minus flasher mounts. The close up shows what they will look like as sold.

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#103 2 years ago

I like it looks great

#104 2 years ago

Is there an order list for these yet? Look great

#105 2 years ago
Quoted from Swoods5688:

Is there an order list for these yet? Look great

First, thanks! And I have a interested list and I just added you to it. I should have the designs done soon and then I can figure out the pricing. I will change the title of post to gotg wireforms $xxx shipped once I get there. Should be very soon.
I am picking up an iron man tomorrow and that kills the day. I owned a iron man for 3 days back before the vaults. I bought it because I never saw one for sale. I posted it for trade just to see if anything interesting came up. At the time iron mans were very pricey. I managed to trade it for a williams indiana jones which blew my mind. I paid $3700 for the iron man. I really miss those times! I said if I ever saw another that was worth getting I would. I would love to rail it, but the ramps are all one piece plastics.

#106 2 years ago

There will be a choice of this type of rail, which is just a standard upper and lower rail with hexagons on them. These will be cheaper as the labor is cut down alot.

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#107 2 years ago

Going with this mounting for the flashers.

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#108 2 years ago

Left is completed with stock flashers. It looks great to me and this is how this is going to be sold. This will be the standard left side rail.

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#109 2 years ago

Standard left side rail price broken down below. I will make the right side tomorrow and we will have total cost for a set of standard rails. Included in the labor is sanding, stoning, polishing and playtesting.

Left rail total costs.
$150 (3 hours labor @ 50 an hour)
$16.72 stainless rods ( 24 feet )
$3.50 argon used. ( 102 welds )
$1.25 hardware ( screws & poly adapters)
——————————————————————
$171.47

Out of that I will cover the shipping supplies.(boxes & bubble wrap)

#110 2 years ago

Right side is a hair more involved with the extra bends. $345 for a set of standard rails. Shipping costs to your address will be added when they are ready to ship.

The box is 36x12x6 and is 4 pounds. Shipping will be ups ground and added to the $345 for the rails. This box costs $45 to ship to California, $25 to Chicago so it makes more sense to pay exact shipping for pricing.

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#111 2 years ago

Sweet!
Send me a PM when ready to ship.

#112 2 years ago
Quoted from mima:

Sweet!
Send me a PM when ready to ship.

Will do.
Heres a walk around video of them installed.

#113 2 years ago

My vote is for the standard flashers - let someone else figure out a cool 3D printed design/mod for that spot.

Now all I have to do is pick up a GOTG.

Great work!

#114 2 years ago

Great work! Love the process and all the iterations you’ve gone through to get to where they are. They look fantastic.

#115 2 years ago

Definitely in!

#116 2 years ago

I'm definitely in as well

#117 2 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Great work! Love the process and all the iterations you’ve gone through to get to where they are. They look fantastic.

Thanks Taylor I appreciate that. The only way to get here is to fail a bunch of times. I am happy with these as well.

And prepping for next week, starting with flasher mounts. I should start shipping by next weekend at the latest.
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#118 2 years ago

Finished up template board. Making the dreaded hexagons...

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#119 2 years ago

I really hope that you find a way to get a set in my direction.

#120 2 years ago

First set is done and ready. This is what they all will look like going forward. I need to take install pictures with notes for installation. Its easy, but pictures go along way. I am asking if your still interested in them with the pms when they are ready. If your dropping out please let me know. I had a few people on mandalorian rails that just disappeared and would not answer pms. I am doing the same one week to reply as I did with those. If you dont answer in a week I go on to next person on the list. You can still buy a set it just will be delayed until I make another set.

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#121 2 years ago

These are awesome, great work. I will have to look at a set down the road.

#122 2 years ago

Any chance we could see a video of someone actually shooting the ramps?

#123 2 years ago
Quoted from red-line:

Any chance we could see a video of someone actually shooting the ramps?

My aim sucks and my coil stop rubbers are shot. Nice spring noise! But, heres a quick video.

#124 2 years ago

Instructions to install ramps:

Turn off machine and remove the balls. Do not do any part of this with the machine tirned on. Bad things can happen electrical shorts being number 1.

1: Remove both ramps and wiring to flashers.

2: Remove flashers from the ramps. Place plastic dome on top of wireform platform while placing the flaser board underneath wireform platform see pictures. Center the flasher on platform, ensure flasher board is centered and tighten the retaining screws.

3: Remove the two front sling plastics and rubber ring. Then remove the front sling stud screw completely and set aside.

4: Raise the playfield and thread the included 3 inch screw into the the playfield threaded hole insert. Tighten that screw until it is flush with the bottom of insert and tight.

5: Lower playfield and put the plastic spacer over the screw that is now sticking up above the playfield. Put one of the included washers over the spacer and then install the nut down to the spacer and make sure it is tight. Verify the spacer is locked down and not loose. If so tighten, it just needs to be snug, so dont go crazy. Then place the large washer (plastic protector one) over that nut. Put rubber ring back over the sling, then place sling plastic back into place. Place included washer or reuse original washer over sling plastic. You should now see a secured stud sticking up in the front.

6: remove the 2 screws that are holding a square metal plate on each of the plastic ramps by backbox. Take one of the included plastic adapters and place it underneath the ramp to align with the two screw holes. The holes on the adapter are threaded. Just hold adapter under the plastic ramp and install the 2 screws that you removed into the new adapter. The bracket has a L shapped design with a cut out on it. You want the cut out facing you or towards the front of the machine. The rails will instert into this cut out. The 2 screws just need to be snug. Try not to over tighten them.

7: Install the right ramp by placing the wireform into the cut out opening in adapter while aligning the other mounts on rail so they all are lined up. Start at the sling. The bracket should be hung over that new installed stud. Place included hardware large washer and included smaller washer over the stud. Install the threadlock nut down the stud, but leave it loose for now.
Next, use included screws and washers to go through the metal brackets on the rail into the existing squared mounting bracket studs on playfield. You want all three of the mounting points started but not toghtened. Look at rail and center the ball drop hole on lower end of rail to be centered in the lane. When its centered tighten that thread locked nut down until it is secured. Now tighten the other bracket screws. You can move the rails around for alignment if needed. Make sure all the mounts are tight you also need to thread flasher wiring through playfield.

8: install the left ramp in the same manner as the right. Same procedure as above. The left has two mounts, sling and one mid bracket. You can reuse the spotlight screw or replace it, but that spotlight is part of mount on rail now.

9: raise the playfield and plug everything back in.

10: put balls back in and play the game. The rails are very adjustable in the drop. I playtest them on my machine and they should be good for you. If you need to adjust them you can lightly bend the upper rail up or down in small increments. There is a sweet spot. The upper rail not only stops the ball, but it also strikes the top of it sending it downward.
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#125 2 years ago

PM sent, I want a set.

#126 2 years ago

Setting up a batch of rails.

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#127 2 years ago

I would be interested in a set. PM sent. I would love the Groot hands on the end. I believe the Hexagons give it plenty of dimension. We could even weave in some light strands that interact with the game and look like the light seeds coming out of Groot.

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#128 2 years ago

Got mine today and installed tonight. Play tested and they are smooth as silk. I love this!! Thanks Loganpinball

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#129 2 years ago

I’d love to see these on a prem/LE with the groot arms. Anyone have pictures yet?

#130 2 years ago

I would like to order a set. Please put me on the list. Beautiful work

3 weeks later
#131 2 years ago

PM sent to order. Please add me to the list. Great work!

#132 2 years ago
Quoted from NewPinInTown:

PM sent to order. Please add me to the list. Great work!

Added and thanks. I had to do a few runs of mandalorian wireforms as my website took orders and I got paid instantly. I have changed website to not in stock as a result. Sorry for delays. I will be back onto these going forward.

2 weeks later
#133 2 years ago

I am putting these on hold. I am in the process of getting a plasma cutting table. The machine will be able to make the hexagons and save me alot of labor and agravation. They are very hard to make and I spend way too much time on the hexagons. I can cut stainless steel plates with perfect shapes with it and save time. As a result I will adjust the price lower than I am at now. I had 14 people drop out on the list. I have not lost that many on the other projects, so this project needs to be redone to lower the costs and labor time. Be patient and I will be getting back to them with the redisgned forms and price posted when I get there. Hopefully this makes sense to anyone still interested in these.

3 weeks later
#134 2 years ago

How's it going with the plasma cutting table? Sounds like a cool machine.

#135 2 years ago
Quoted from DakotaMike:

How's it going with the plasma cutting table? Sounds like a cool machine.

Its in my garage and ready to use, I just have to catch up on orders before I kill time learning it. I also need to plot out star wars pro ramps for the first cuts. Very busy and very lucky.

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3 weeks later
#136 2 years ago

I am truely impressed with your work. You did an excellant job so far.

2 months later
#137 1 year ago

I just found this thread! Wow, wow, wow!
Did these ever get made? I want a set for my gotg pro

#138 1 year ago

Yes I did sell them a few months ago. The hexagons are very time consuming to make with rods and I wanted to try to use cut out stainless plates to cut down labor time, but the price of the plates is on par with the cost of labor to shape them with rods. I was trying to get the cost down as it was $345 for the set. This has been put on hold as I do not know what to do with these now. I lost alot of people at that price point.

#139 1 year ago
Quoted from Loganpinball:

Yes I did sell them a few months ago. The hexagons are very time consuming to make with rods and I wanted to try to use cut out stainless plates to cut down labor time, but the price of the plates is on par with the cost of labor to shape them with rods. I was trying to get the cost down as it was $345 for the set. This has been put on hold as I do not know what to do with these now. I lost alot of people at that price point.

I sent you a pm.
Did you ever put them in with the groot hands? How about the Ronan hammer mod?

#140 1 year ago
Quoted from Dwboca:

I sent you a pm.
Did you ever put them in with the groot hands? How about the Ronan hammer mod?

Only made a set for a stock pro. I would need a machine with those on it to check or alter rails as needed.

#141 1 year ago

I have a set nd they are freaking awesome. $345 is a steal

#142 1 year ago

I have a set in my pro with the groot hands and they all fit together fine

4 months later
#143 1 year ago

Are these still being made. I’ve been sick for a few months n had forgot about them I would love to have a set.

#144 1 year ago
Quoted from big-c66:

Are these still being made. I’ve been sick for a few months n had forgot about them I would love to have a set.

I am open to doing them again. The only way I can is with the machine in my shop. I sold it last year as I had a list of over 30 drop to 13 when I posted the $345 shipped price. If I can find a pro gotg I will do another small run if needed.

#145 1 year ago

i have that same tig but have only used it for aluminum. would you share your setting with me? amps/balance , gas and tungsten type? i have some stainless projects i need to zap up but i make a mess of them when i DC tig.

#146 1 year ago

Very Neat!
I'd totally buy a set if Guardians was bulletproof worthy on location,
ugh that groot motor...

#147 1 year ago
Quoted from Swoods5688:

I have a set in my pro with the groot hands and they all fit together fine

I bought a set of Groot hands for my Pro too lol
but they never went on...

#148 1 year ago
Quoted from ls1chris:

i have that same tig but have only used it for aluminum. would you share your setting with me? amps/balance , gas and tungsten type? i have some stainless projects i need to zap up but i make a mess of them when i DC tig.

Gold band lanthanated 1.5% rod. A must for stainless steel. 1/8 rods I am at 139 amps, but pedal outuput as needed and you must use 100 percent argon.

#149 1 year ago
Quoted from Loganpinball:

I am open to doing them again. The only way I can is with the machine in my shop. I sold it last year as I had a list of over 30 drop to 13 when I posted the $345 shipped price. If I can find a pro gotg I will do another small run if needed.

I have no issues paying that. Don’t have to twist my arm or anything. Consider me in if you can do another run.

#150 1 year ago

I'm in for a set if you do them

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