(Topic ID: 307435)

F$v fuse blowing issues

By GT40

2 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 28 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by mbwalker
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

pasted_image (resized).png
coil (resized).jpg
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
#1 2 years ago

Hi All

My friend has a SS Playboy and after a night of playing the next day F4 is blowing when turned on. His is original rectifier so I told him to fit a new one as we all know this usually fixes any issues.

He bought an X-pin and fitted it but when turn on still blows F4 and now loud buzzing sound. Traced it down to when J1 connected F4 blows.. Have cut wire to lock out coil and he says all other coils look OK.

This is what he says is happening...

So with J1 unplugged F4 does not blow, the pin scores light up, the start tunes plays but nothing lit on the playfield. With the 1amp slow blo fuse under the playfield designed to blow before F4 as far as I am aware it makes no difference whether in or out. With J1 plugged back in F4 blows instantly, the speaker makes a loud continuous buzzing sound and the pin scores still light up but none of the playfield lights up. The buzzing continues.

Any advice appreciated.

Paul

#2 2 years ago

Glancing at the schematic below, I think only the flipper coils are before the 1A SB fuse. So if the 1A fuse doesn't make any difference, take a look at the flipper coils and associated wires (for a short). You can always unhook the flipper coils (+43V side) one at a time to help isolate the area. Or if the issue is there with the coils unhooked - then it's a short in the wires or connector.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#3 2 years ago

What’s weird is that you are saying the playfield GI isn’t illuminating. Any chance the female connector for J1 was replaced with the new power board? If so, any chance the wire leads were incorrectly installed in the new female connector?

#4 2 years ago

Verify that the 8 or 9 pin connector is on correctly. I remember someone talking about there being a Pin number difference. He may be off by one pin.

#5 2 years ago
Quoted from MMGB:

What’s weird is that you are saying the playfield GI isn’t illuminating. Any chance the female connector for J1 was replaced with the new power board? If so, any chance the wire leads were incorrectly installed in the new female connector?

I thought about that comment too. I was wondering if a dead short on the +43V line might be dragging down some of the other supplies.

But I didn't give it much thought - mostly just focused on the fuse blowing. Could be related tho...

#6 2 years ago

Thanks for all the help. I have told him to cut power to one coil at at time however he is unsure of which ones are the power wires... is this image correct?

coil (resized).jpgcoil (resized).jpg
#7 2 years ago

More coils normally than just the flipper coils use 50v. Inspect all the coils for a black coil wrapper. If there are none, then measure the resistance on all the coils. Good chance a diode may have shorted and could have been caught before the coil completely shorted out. Have any coils measuring under 2 ohms?

#8 2 years ago

Over which terminals on the coil do you check the resistance?

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

More coils normally than just the flipper coils use 50v. Inspect all the coils for a black coil wrapper. If there are none, then measure the resistance on all the coils. Good chance a diode may have shorted and could have been caught before the coil completely shorted out. Have any coils measuring under 2 ohms?

GT40 mentioned removing the 1A SB on the PF didn't make any difference, and it only happens w/J1 plugged in the PS. I took a quick look at the schematic (my post #2), and at first glace - looks like there's just the flippers remaining w/the 1A fuse pulled.

I admit tho, no expert here. I might have overlooked something or somebody's tinkered w/the wiring over the years - so still good advice @pinballmaniac40.

#10 2 years ago
Quoted from GT40:

Thanks for all the help. I have told him to cut power to one coil at at time however he is unsure of which ones are the power wires... is this image correct?
[quoted image]

The 50V label is correct, GT40

#11 2 years ago

Ok so we have checked both coils by cutting the power to them and still blows the F4 fuse. Also disconnected the soundboard and that stops the buzzing but the fuse still blows.

Fitted a new altek solenoid driver board but still same issue.

I'm assuming there just must be a short somewhere but we have checked all the wiring and there's no loose wires or can't see anything that's shorting.

Any ideas?

#12 2 years ago
Quoted from GT40:

Ok so we have checked both coils by cutting the power to them and still blows the F4 fuse. Also disconnected the soundboard and that stops the buzzing but the fuse still blows.
Fitted a new altek solenoid driver board but still same issue.
I'm assuming there just must be a short somewhere but we have checked all the wiring and there's no loose wires or can't see anything that's shorting.
Any ideas?

@gt40, did you ever verify the comment below is not an issue?

Quoted from Billc479:

Verify that the 8 or 9 pin connector is on correctly. I remember someone talking about there being a Pin number difference. He may be off by one pin.

So just to double check, you have disconnected the flipper coils and the 1A playfield fuse at the same time...and the power supply fuse still blows?

What might be helpful is to post some pictures here of the J1 connector and the harness on the PF. Maybe one of the 'eagle eyes' here can spot something.

#13 2 years ago

Yes disconnected the flipper coils but not the 1A fuse because I didn't think that was relevant.

I measured the resistance on all terminal combinations on the flipper coils as I didn't know which ones I was suppose to be checking and both were the same ohm readings.

A local pinnie repairer suggest that we remove one pin at at a time on J1 until F4 stops blowing then trace that wire to where the problem is on the playfield so we are in the process of doing that now.

#14 2 years ago

Sorry.. with regards to "Verify that the 8 or 9 pin connector is on correctly. I remember someone talking about there being a Pin number difference. He may be off by one pin. "

yes that is OK and remember this all started with F4 blowing in the first place and the only thing that has changed since replacing the rectifier is the buzzing through the speaker. I believe that is related to some sort of resistance problem? Anyone familiar with why that is suddenly occurring?

#15 2 years ago
Quoted from GT40:

...A local pinnie repairer suggest that we remove one pin at at a time on J1 until F4 stops blowing then trace that wire to where the problem is on the playfield so we are in the process of doing that now.

That was a good suggestion. Keep in mind sometimes a short isn't to ground, but to something else (i.e. another power supply voltage). I had an EM once that a sling switch got bent over...right to the case a of a light bulb. Fuse would only blow when the light bulb turned on. That was tricky to find!

#16 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

More coils normally than just the flipper coils use 50v. Inspect all the coils for a black coil wrapper. If there are none, then measure the resistance on all the coils. Good chance a diode may have shorted and could have been caught before the coil completely shorted out. Have any coils measuring under 2 ohms?

If you follow the +43V solenoid bus line, it is tied to all the coils. So ohm test all the other coils other than the flipper coils.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#17 2 years ago

Yes I actually did test all the coils but all read same resistance

#18 2 years ago

Can you wedge the black meter lead between the ground braid wire and the side of the lower cabinet? Then still set for ohms, touch either side of each of the coils. If there is a transistor shorted, normally this will show shorted to ground, less than one ohm.

I hope not shorted as you mentioned you have a new Alltek solenoid driver board in there, unless you swapped back the original board?

#19 2 years ago

OK will try that... yes original board refitted.

#20 2 years ago

Actually, may be better to wedge the meter lead under the ground braid in the backbox and touch the long row of transistors on the solenoid driver to see if any ohm as a short to ground. If one is shorted, need to double check the coil resistance to be sure a coil diode is not shorted, which will short out a transistor even on a new driver board.

So you said all coils measure same resistance, about 10 ohms?

#21 2 years ago
Quoted from GT40:

Yes disconnected the flipper coils but not the 1A fuse because I didn't think that was relevant...

If it was me, I'd still remove the 1A just to completely eliminate it. I know - it shouldn't make any difference. But since we're still sort of trying to narrow down the issue, I'd remove just in case your buddy made an error in troubleshooting. It just potentially muddies the water.

#22 2 years ago

can you post a clear pic of the rectifier board and the plugs connecting to it?

try removing J1, J2 & J5 from the solenoid driver board and turning her on.

does the fuse still blow?

also you can use a 5A mini circuit breaker instead of going through all the 4A fuses.

#23 2 years ago

Thanks for all your help however my friend has decided to get a pinball repair guy in as he isn't confident on doing some of the suggestions.

I made him a 5amp circuit breaker for F4 so he doesn't go through so many fuses. The repair guy is going to have a look this Wednesday so I will let you all know what the issue was.

Thanks again for all the help guys.

Paul

#24 2 years ago
Quoted from GT40:

Thanks for all your help however my friend has decided to get a pinball repair guy in as he isn't confident on doing some of the suggestions.
I made him a 5amp circuit breaker for F4 so he doesn't go through so many fuses. The repair guy is going to have a look this Wednesday so I will let you all know what the issue was.
Thanks again for all the help guys.
Paul

Thanks for the update, Paul. It can be daunting if your buddy doesn't feel comfortable poking around the inside of a pin.

3 weeks later
#25 2 years ago

Hi All

Just an update.... it ended up that he had put the J2 plug on 1 pin out as the X-Pin rectifier has 1 extra pin compared to the OEM one. We all knew it was going to be something simple!

Unfortunately after fixing the LED's were continually flashing so we figured he had cooked his Altek LED driver board and confirmed it by lending him one of mine.

Thanks for all the advice.

Paul

#26 2 years ago
Quoted from GT40:

Unfortunately after fixing the LED's were continually flashing so we figured he had cooked his Altek LED driver board and confirmed it by lending him one of mine.

Send it to Alltek for repair.

#27 2 years ago

He has ordered a new one as by the time he pays for freight to the US and back it will work out the same a buying a new one.

#28 2 years ago
Quoted from GT40:

Hi All
Just an update.... it ended up that he had put the J2 plug on 1 pin out as the X-Pin rectifier has 1 extra pin compared to the OEM one. We all knew it was going to be something simple!
Unfortunately after fixing the LED's were continually flashing so we figured he had cooked his Altek LED driver board and confirmed it by lending him one of mine.
Thanks for all the advice.
Paul

Bummer the LED board took a hit, but at least the mystery is solved.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
2,500 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Corbin, KY
$ 149.95
Boards
Allteksystems
 
$ 10.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
7,995
Machine - For Sale
Clovis, CA
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 12.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
 
2,231 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Nutley, NJ
$ 18.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
 
From: £ 22.00
Electronics
Retro Electro Designs
 
3,250 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Greeneville, TN
Hey modders!
Your shop name here

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.