(Topic ID: 350002)

future spa wiring schematic

By metalguy

6 months ago


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  • 25 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 months ago by barakandl
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    #1 6 months ago

    I'm in the process of repinning all female pins on a future spa. This game was never tested working and I installed all new boards. I decided to check all wire colors to schematic and make sure all is ok. I know not all wires are always used. But do some of these seem odd?

    https://www.ipdb.org/files/974/Bally_1979_Future_Spa_Manual.pdf

    -J3 on rectifier board pin 13 for Solenoid buss should be white yellow. There is no white yellow anywhere in the harness.

    -Also on rectifier J1 pin 7 has solid blue but I also have one at pin 3.

    -and j2 on mpu pin 2 has a grey yellow but there is nothing on schematic
    Thanks

    #2 6 months ago

    I also forget mpu j3 pins 2 and 3 no female pins in housing and wires were cut back in harness

    #3 6 months ago
    Quoted from metalguy:

    I'm in the process of repinning all female pins on a future spa. This game was never tested working and I installed all new boards. I decided to check all wire colors to schematic and make sure all is ok. I know not all wires are always used. But do some of these seem odd?
    https://www.ipdb.org/files/974/Bally_1979_Future_Spa_Manual.pdf
    -J3 on rectifier board pin 13 for Solenoid buss should be white yellow. There is no white yellow anywhere in the harness.
    -Also on rectifier J1 pin 7 has solid blue but I also have one at pin 3.
    -and j2 on mpu pin 2 has a grey yellow but there is nothing on schematic
    Thanks

    The wire diagram page can be a bit generic at times. Future spa has the knocker in the cabinet. It used to be up in the head for an older game like Mata Hari. I think that is the discrepancy you see in the wiring harness page. You need sol buss at rectifier J3-P12 to MPU J4 for zero † and J3-P9 to power the flipper relay coil.

    J1 P3 is labeled as a "spare". It is an extra connection for the switched illumination buss. Considering how the playfield plug will burn up in these games, it is good both pins are being used to split the load.

    #5 6 months ago

    I can take a pic of mine tonight

    #6 6 months ago
    Quoted from barakandl:

    You need sol buss at rectifier J3-P12 to MPU J4 for zero † and J3-P9 to power the flipper relay coil.

    Thanks barakandl. Forgive my ss ignorance but you completely lost me here ^

    I get the double blue wire on J1 makes sense.

    What about the grey yellow on mpu j2?

    The new boards are all yours by the way. Except for the rectifier which is from pinball life.

    #7 6 months ago
    Quoted from slghokie:

    I can take a pic of mine tonight

    Thanks slghokie

    #8 6 months ago
    Quoted from metalguy:

    Thanks barakandl. Forgive my ss ignorance but you completely lost me here ^
    I get the double blue wire on J1 makes sense.
    What about the grey yellow on mpu j2?
    The new boards are all yours by the way. Except for the rectifier which is from pinball life.

    I was just pointing out where the 43v solenoid buss wires should be found at your rectifier board and where the other end terminates at. Probably too much info.

    Mpu J2 is where the switch connectors go. If you look at the switch matrix chart and the wiring diagram page you should be able to figure out where the wires go. Also what will help is replacement board next to the connector you will see labeling like ST1 that stands for strobe 1, that would match up the wiring diagram and switch matrix page.

    #9 6 months ago
    Quoted from metalguy:

    -Also on rectifier J1 pin 7 has solid blue but I also have one at pin 3.

    Future Spa was one of three Bally games that had the taller 2518-49 rectifier boards with two the metal can TO-3 diode bridges. These games added a 9th pin to the J1 connector as a second source for the switched illumination bus. That's where the second blue wire was fitted at factory.

    Stern amended their rectifier board design to use the spare pin 3 as a second source of switched illumination bus so they could stay with an 8 pin J1 connector.

    You should check if your rectifier board actually has continuity between pin 3 and pin 7 at the J1 pin header. Anyway in your shoes I'd put the second blue wire back to pin 9 so it's factory.

    RectifierBoard_Connectors9_Bally.pngRectifierBoard_Connectors9_Bally.png

    #10 6 months ago

    Preface, I got rectifier and solenoid boards updated and working. Changed J1 J3 on rectifier but replaced burned up factory original.

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    #11 6 months ago

    Thanks for the help with the wiring pics and color guides. I got it all pinned now.

    Wanted to check on these voltages on rectifier. I tested with only j2 in

    I have:
    tp1 7.6v
    tp2 185v
    tp3 13.5v
    tp4 7.3vac
    tp5 45v

    Then I plugged in all others except j4 on mpu
    I have:
    tp1 7.6v
    tp2 257v
    tp3 16.8v
    tp4 7.2vac
    tp5 45v

    #12 6 months ago
    Quoted from metalguy:

    Then I plugged in all others except j4 on mpu
    I have:
    tp1 7.6v
    tp2 257v
    tp3 16.8v
    tp4 7.2vac
    tp5 45v

    TP2 and TP3 are a little high. What line voltage is the transformer wired for?

    #13 6 months ago
    Quoted from Quench:

    TP2 and TP3 are a little high. What line voltage is the transformer wired for?

    I have 120 at the wall. This is the transformer it’s at 115 correct?

    IMG_5054 (resized).jpegIMG_5054 (resized).jpeg
    #14 6 months ago

    yes it is set up for 115V, you want to remove the link and yellow wire from 9 to 11 and link 5 to 7 for 120V with the yellow wire on either solder tab.

    #15 6 months ago
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    #16 6 months ago

    Ok that’s odd. My other ballys all have same lug pattern and run on 120 fine with very close to correct voltages at rectifier. Why would this game be any different?

    #17 6 months ago
    Quoted from metalguy:

    Why would this game be any different?

    Future Spa has a different model transformer to your other Ballys.

    #18 6 months ago
    Quoted from Quench:

    Future Spa has a different model transformer to your other Ballys.

    Ok thanks I will give it a shot and report back with voltages on rectifier

    #19 6 months ago

    Ok I moved the lugs to 120v. voltages came down a bit

    With all connectors except j4 on mpu I have:

    tp1 7.16
    tp2 245
    tp3 15.99
    tp4 6.9ac
    tp5 43

    Should I add j4 to mpu and test again

    #20 6 months ago
    Quoted from metalguy:

    Should I add j4 to mpu and test again

    Yes, voltages look ok.

    #21 6 months ago

    When this transformer came out and the later one after this that gets paired with the -54 rectifier, they have higher output voltages than the earlier games. I guess they wanted the lamps brighter. A few games I picked up that rotted away on some route had nearly every lamp looked silvered and burned out. Same reason why some distributor/operator(s) hacked every single -54 game the same way to add voltage drop with extra rectifiers.

    WMS went the other direction in system 11. Pretty typical to only see 5.5vac across the GI lamps. Some games like F-14 are painfully dark in the stock setup (until the flashers go off).

    #22 6 months ago

    Ok game boots up no issues.

    AC is still about 6.9v for gi. I put in leds all around. I shouldnt have any issues with the leds burning up correct?

    In test mode during display test all feature lights flicker. Under the pf I have half yoppsicles and half original socketed cheap leds not non ghosting. Is this normal? I have the weebly light board.

    I have an always lit segment on one display. I did the 1/2w resistors and reflowed headers. I have some cd4543. Can I use a mpsa92 in place of the mpsa42 for q13?

    During attract mode player 1 only, the display switches from 00 to 90. Is this a dipswitch deal on the weebly mpu?
    Thanks again

    #23 6 months ago
    Quoted from metalguy:

    During attract mode player 1 only, the display switches from 00 to 90. Is this a dipswitch deal on the weebly mpu?

    Set a hstd in audit 4 and see if it goes between 90 and the hstd if it does 90 is likely the version number for free play rom.

    #24 6 months ago
    Quoted from metalguy:

    AC is still about 6.9v for gi. I put in leds all around. I shouldnt have any issues with the leds burning up correct?

    Probably be ok but of course it depends on the quality of your LEDs and whether the higher current draw pushes them over their spec.

    Quoted from metalguy:

    In test mode during display test all feature lights flicker. Under the pf I have half yoppsicles and half original socketed cheap leds not non ghosting. Is this normal?

    This is a factory software quirk. It can be fixed with a ROM update if it really bothers you.

    Quoted from metalguy:

    Can I use a mpsa92 in place of the mpsa42 for q13?

    No!
    MPSA42 is a NPN transistor, MPSA92 is a PNP transistor. They compliment each other working on opposite voltage rails and are not interchangeable.

    Quoted from metalguy:

    During attract mode player 1 only, the display switches from 00 to 90.

    The 90 is a version number displayed of the freeplay ROM being used.

    #25 6 months ago

    The free play ROMs with seven digit capability write a value into the last game played for player one at boot up instead of showing double zeros. I presume it is a version number and it goes away after playing one game (until you reset the MPU again).

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