(Topic ID: 305884)

Future Spa - Some Lights not working

By jburas7

2 years ago



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  • 10 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Randy_G
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#1 2 years ago

Moved my future spa 10 feet and some of the lights stopped working. It seems the be the lights that just stay on, such as the 3 pop bumpers in the upper middle of the playfield. I cannot find my schematic, is anyone familiar with what connector I should look at first? Or does anyone have a schematic they can share with me? Thanks!

#2 2 years ago

If it's just some of the G.I. and not all of the G.I. I would suspect a cold solder joint at a lamp socket on either the insulated wire jumper or the bare ground bus.

Look at the ones that are out and trace the wires to the one before it that is working

Probably a good idea to remove the bulb & try it in a working socket as well (swapping with working lamps behind backglass always convenient)

#3 2 years ago

Schematics here: https://ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=974

Yeah youve most likely got a cold solder joint or loose wire under the playfield somewhere. Also could try reseating the power board connectors, one of them powers the GI (I forget which)

#4 2 years ago

Thanks for the advice and links to the schematics. I just did a once over and cannot figure it out. Its actually all of the GI. Thoughts? Lamp driver? Connectors seem fine.

#5 2 years ago
Quoted from jburas7:

Thanks for the advice and links to the schematics. I just did a once over and cannot figure it out. Its actually all of the GI. Thoughts? Lamp driver? Connectors seem fine.

If it's all of the GI it's not the lamp driver. Lamp driver is everything not GI. Check TP4, which should be around 7.3v AC on the rectifier board. Also check the 20a fuse. If your voltage is right and your fuse is good, I would suspect the fuse clips, they get really oxidized. Also, are the connector pins themselves oxidized?

I would suggest using the Bally Playboy schematics on that same website because the scan of the Future Spa schema is garbage. Its the same for the rectifier board

#6 2 years ago
Quoted from Knxwledge:

If it's all of the GI it's not the lamp driver. Lamp driver is everything not GI. Check TP4, which should be around 7.3v AC on the rectifier board. Also check the 20a fuse. If your voltage is right and your fuse is good, I would suspect the fuse clips, they get really oxidized. Also, are the connector pins themselves oxidized?
I would suggest using the Bally Playboy schematics on that same website because the scan of the Future Spa schema is garbage. Its the same for the rectifier board

Knxwledge Okay, cleaned up the fuse clips, some were oxidized. Still no luck so I checked TP4 and its reading 0.00v, I compared to TP5 and TP5 was reading like 4.5v AC. connector pins look good. Everything was re pinned a few years ago. Thanks for your help!

#7 2 years ago
Quoted from jburas7:

Knxwledge Okay, cleaned up the fuse clips, some were oxidized. Still no luck so I checked TP4 and its reading 0.00v, I compared to TP5 and TP5 was reading like 4.5v AC. connector pins look good. Everything was re pinned a few years ago. Thanks for your help!

TP5 should be measured in DC, but it's not related to GI. If you're getting nothing on TP4, check that the fuse isn't blown, then start checking all the connections marked in red (and ensure E8 is connected to ground)
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#8 2 years ago
Quoted from Knxwledge:

TP5 should be measured in DC, but it's not related to GI. If you're getting nothing on TP4, check that the fuse isn't blown, then start checking all the connections marked in red (and ensure E8 is connected to ground)
[quoted image]

Knxwledge All of the fuses are good but what I found is that the green and white wires on J1 and J3 (farthest left on the connector) at the rectifier board are burnt. Looking at the schematics that would be the G.I.s. Should I be looking for a short somewhere?

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from jburas7:

Knxwledge All of the fuses are good but what I found is that the green and white wires on J1 and J3 (farthest left on the connector) at the rectifier board are burnt. Looking at the schematics that would be the G.I.s. Should I be looking for a short somewhere?

I would recommend repinning all 3 connectors (male and female) then. Sounds like they need it, but pics would help. They get burned up because of the constant AC voltage running through them, not due to anything in particular going bad. If fuse itself isn't bad, check for AC voltage at both ends of the fuse, to rule out the fuse clips

#10 2 years ago

I have original schematics for future spa...do you still need?

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