(Topic ID: 263712)

Future spa not turning on


By EMpins16

4 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 13 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by EMpins16
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 4 months ago

Hello , just picked up what looks to be a home use only future spa in crazy nice condition . The mpu is shot , has heavy acid damage . My question is would this be enough to keep the game from powering on ? All my experience is with EM repair . Gonna get my meter out today and dig around but just thought I’d ask

#2 4 months ago

Yeah acid damage is bad not just the board but the connectors as well

I keep a spare Alltek board until I can find a suitable original replacement for cheap on e-bay

pics?

Future Spa is a great game

#3 4 months ago

Even without an MPU, you should at least get GI lights. Nothing else will turn on without the MPU.

#4 4 months ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Even without an MPU, you should at least get GI lights. Nothing else will turn on without the MPU.

I’m currently getting nothing at all . Not even so much as a hum .

#5 4 months ago

First disconnect all the MPU connectors.
Then check your fuses on the rectifier board, one is probably blown.

#6 4 months ago
Quoted from EMpins16:

I’m currently getting nothing at all . Not even so much as a hum .

could be a bad connector on the rectifier, bad line fuse, or bad line fuse holder. or something wrong with the power cord

#7 4 months ago
Quoted from zacaj:

could be a bad connector on the rectifier, bad line fuse, or bad line fuse holder. or something wrong with the power cord

One of the fuse holders does look to have some damage . Also on that rectifier board is it common to have wires soldered directly to the board ?

#8 4 months ago
Quoted from EMpins16:

One of the fuse holders does look to have some damage . Also on that rectifier board is it common to have wires soldered directly to the board ?

If you mean coming from the transformer, yes. Check out the pics here:

https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#How_To_Hook_Up_a_Bally_AS-2518-18_Rectifier_Board

If your rectifier board is shot, it’s a relatively cheap and easy part to replace. My Future Spa was suffering a similar problem, although my GI did have power. I got no boot LEDs from the MPU, though. I did some rectifier troubleshooting but eventually realized I’d rather spend some cash than some time and bought this replacement:

https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-100-0070-00

20 minutes of soldering later (do yourself a favor and remove the whole transformer from the game), and I was back up and running. I still don’t know what was wrong on the old rectifier board, but I don’t much care anymore.

#9 4 months ago
Quoted from CKrueger:

If you mean coming from the transformer, yes. Check out the pics here:
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#How_To_Hook_Up_a_Bally_AS-2518-18_Rectifier_Board
If your rectifier board is shot, it’s a relatively cheap and easy part to replace. My Future Spa was suffering a similar problem, although my GI did have power. I got no boot LEDs from the MPU, though. I did some rectifier troubleshooting but eventually realized I’d rather spend some cash than some time and bought this replacement:
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-100-0070-00
20 minutes of soldering later (do yourself a favor and remove the whole transformer from the game), and I was back up and running. I still don’t know what was wrong on the old rectifier board, but I don’t much care anymore.

Great info . Thanks . Yea I know the mpu is shot , perhaps doing the rectifier and mpu In one shot will save me a head ache in the long run

#10 4 months ago

It’s certainly the easy way out, if expensive!

I banged my head against my Black Hole’s CPU issue for 6 months, and then fixed it in 5 minutes with a Pascal board. My only regret was not spending the $300 before I drained numerous evenings attempting to teach myself to diagnose the CPU issue.

#11 4 months ago

Some nice close up pictures of the rectifier board, connectors, etc, would help. I wouldn't be surprized if there is a lot of charring on the rectifier board.

#12 4 months ago

If you mean wires soldered to the BACK side of the rectifier board, then yes that is ok. Shouldn't have any on the front. Did you check your power cord where it connects inside the cabinet? I have seen to spade lug fail a few times, I would look there too

#13 4 months ago
Quoted from Blenderhead:

If you mean wires soldered to the BACK side of the rectifier board, then yes that is ok. Shouldn't have any on the front. Did you check your power cord where it connects inside the cabinet? I have seen to spade lug fail a few times, I would look there too

I will post pictures today , It appears to be on the front

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