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(Topic ID: 279578)

Future Spa Hardtop Install - Vid's Guide


By vid1900

4 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 64 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by alexmogil
  • Topic is favorited by 19 Pinsiders

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There are 64 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 4 days ago
Quoted from TreyBo69:

Can you elaborate more on why you don’t want to sand all the art off? For the areas you do sand, what grit are you using?

If you sand all the art off, the bare wood shows through the HT holes.

So even tiny pin or a wire guide leg gets a big, bare hole.

Save yourself a bunch of touch-up time, and just leave the playfield paint alone.

-

I used 120 grit to cut the old finish out, then 220 grit to smooth before the poly was applied.

#52 4 days ago
Quoted from xsvtoys:

I was always so-so on the backglass art, but I like the playfield art a lot. Especially the 2 girls in the upper corners, it is just so damn blatant I can't believe it was allowed on there. Dave Christiansen is my hero.
Thanks for this guide too, this answered a lot of questions I had about these overlays.

It would have been great to have Dave's original backglass drawing. I don't know of another machine where one artist did the playfield and another the backglass.

#53 4 days ago
Quoted from jellikit:

It would have been great to have Dave's original backglass drawing. I don't know of another machine where one artist did the playfield and another the backglass.

Hurricane, Python and Youssi.

Good stuff Vid, thanks for posting, glad to see you back!

#54 4 days ago
Quoted from jaytrem:

Hurricane, Python and Youssi.
Good stuff Vid, thanks for posting, glad to see you back!

Thanks for the info.

#55 4 days ago

The only flaw in this game is the clunky geometry of the right loop. The left loop is so much smoother. Otherwise it’s a gem, although I kind of wish the backglass art style was replicated on the playfield.

#56 3 days ago

Vid welcome back. You were missed.

You mentioned sanding the shooter lane and then applying an oil based polyurethane before the clear coat. What brand oil based polyurethane are you using?

#57 3 days ago
Quoted from Silverstreak02:

You mentioned sanding the shooter lane and then applying an oil based polyurethane before the clear coat. What brand oil based polyurethane are you using?

Minwax darkens nicely with age.

2pac "sits on top" of the wood, whereas the oil poly soaks in and really brings out the grain.

#58 3 days ago

@Pike Pete asked if lamp holders would short out on the drop cage; nope, plenty of room

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#59 3 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

There were some strange water marks visible in some of the insert windows.
Nothing too crazy, but I wish I would have seen them before I stuck the HT down[quoted image][quoted image]

I’m a bit confused on this one. Are these marks on the underside of the HT? I presume they are not on the top or they could be dealt with after installing. The underside would have the adhesive on it. If you had spotted it before attaching the HT, how would you fix?

I guess you would need to somehow clean that area under the insert to get it nice and clear. It seems the adhesive would be removed by that process, but that should be ok since it’s a small area anyway.

#60 2 days ago
Quoted from xsvtoys:

I’m a bit confused on this one. Are these marks on the underside of the HT?

Yes, they are on the underside.

Quoted from xsvtoys:

The underside would have the adhesive on it.

There are holes cut through the adhesive, so wherever there is an insert, there is no glue.

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Quoted from xsvtoys:

If you had spotted it before attaching the HT, how would you fix?

I wish I would have seen it prior, and I might have a better answer.

Off the top of my head, I'd probably try some Naphtha on a foam wipe (I fear a Q-tip would leave some fuzz behind along the edge of the adhesive)

If they spray a primer on before applying the adhesive, then maybe it's etched into the surface and would have to be polished out?

Or maybe it's some strange condensation from shipping or storage and it would just clean up with distilled water? (although I doubt this, because it was sealed in the factory bag; and it's only on a few inserts)

With the Pandemic, I've got none of these waiting to be installed, so hopefully someone here has an uninstalled HT and can take a closer look.

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#61 2 days ago

I have a Pinbot waiting to be installed, what do you need to see? I definitely should have cleaned my insert openings on my last Hardtop because there is some cloudiness that I completely missed. I am planning on doing a cleaning just before the peel and stick on the Pinbot.

#62 2 days ago
Quoted from alexmogil:

I have a Pinbot waiting to be installed, what do you need to see? I definitely should have cleaned my insert openings on my last Hardtop because there is some cloudiness that I completely missed.

If you see those spots in the inserts, what solvent (alcohol, naphtha, distilled water) removes them?

Thanks!

#63 2 hours ago

Disclaimer: Don't do any of this, it is all at your own risk.

I did some experimentation with a couple different cleaners and found that alcohol tends to clean the underside of the inserts. I tried naphtha and simple green as well as plain old water, and found that alcohol does the trick. In fact, if you look closely it tends to clean off whatever grainy residue is in the clear areas from factory. In both of the below pictures the middle insert has been cleaned with alcohol and a microfiber cloth.

I DO NOT RECCOMEND DOING THIS UNLESS YOU HAVE A SPECIFIC REASON AND I HAVE NO IDEA IF THIS HAS CAUSED LASTING DAMAGE TO THE HARDTOP. SKYPILOT MIGHT COME IN HERE AND DIGITALLY MURDER ME.

It might eat all the paint surrounding the insert. Maybe. Maybe not.

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#64 2 hours ago

Seriously don't do that unless you super have to.

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There are 64 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.

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