Hey Vid,
I am just readying to do my first HT and have read through a lot of your posts, thank you for sharing so much detail. If you have time, can you help clarify a few things for me please? I will wrap my questions with what I believe to be are your advice/recommendations but let me know if I am misunderstanding.
From what I can see, you use 120 grit to take down the main, intended parts of a PF, and then finish with 220. The intention is to flatten the PF but not make it a whitewood, while leaving some of the art to reduce the need to re-colour any of the HT holes or areas which are clear, that might be different from the PF being worked on. You can lay the HT over the PF to see these areas and work from there. You use the hair dryer and top/bottom clamp method to lower any inserts which are high. After scraping off the insert art (at 90 degree with a sharp chisel), you can sand the inserts at 220 and if need, a max of 400 (not wet and not too smooth as you need bite for the 2PAC). The trimming of the HT all makes sense as well.
What I am mainly curious about are the type of epoxy (wood repair and insert setting) and and clear that you use and their processes. I often see just 'epoxy' but have seen mention of 'wood epoxy', I have 2 part [P.C. Woody] so I have started using that today to repair any areas.
- What is the epoxy used to secure inserts from the back side?
For the clear, I see oil based polyeurethane used intentionally to add some yellow or age back to the newly sanded areas that remain visible through the HT. Shooter lane, ball orbits on some of the older titles, etc. The yellowing can increase a bit more over time (even with 'non-yellowing', oil poly). It is understood that the oil based poly (water poly is shit - never use) is not as durable/strong as 2PAC but serves the above stated purpose. Poly takes longer to cure (nail test and smell test - if it still smells, then it is not cured) than 2PAC as 2PACS is a chemical reaction/cure but still requires some time (see label(s)). Maybe the nail and smell test also applies to the 2PAC(?)
For the 2PAC application, you have said that too many coats is not necessary and suggest 2-3, which would still be more than some current manufacturers. That the re-application time is dependant on the 2PAC used, but I have read in your examples that 15 minutes in between is common. This would prevent the need for blocking and sanding in between 'coats' but if you were to wait longer than the short reapplication time, you would have to wait possibly 24 hours or so (read directions) and then block, sand and spary (more time and effort instead of just shooting at the 15 min mark 2 or 3 times in succession).
- For this, are you doing a combination of the paint->poly (where required), then sealing with 2PAC on all of your HT installs currently?
- When you do the full PF with 2PAC, do you prep the clear prior to installing the HT? Possibly besides a light block/sand where any 2PAC might have walled or run. I am curious if the recommendation is to not have the full clear too smooth.
- What type of surface is best for the 3M adhesive, or whatever is now used on the HT, to adhere to.
Thanks again!