So I'm getting close to the end of my resurrection, but it does this strange sound thing. If it's sitting in attract mode after a while it starts making a high pitch squeal.. beeeeeeeeeep! If you start a game, it goes away.

Also, sometimes a good shake during the game will cause the sound card to start acting strangely. Sometimes it's no noise at all, sometimes it's like some alternative sound set. Objects on the playfield will play what seems like different sounds.

I've replaced all the caps, I've replaced both the header and the molex plugs for this connection. I wonder if maybe it's not the sound card, but maybe something incorrectly telling the card what to play.

Seems like sometimes a good shove will even get the game to freak out and the score displays go out. Maybe this is some kind of power thing.

-Brian

Mmmm- not yet. I like to hear suggestions from you guys before i start replacing. Components Willy-nilly.

Yeah, I'm not sure about jiggling harnesses while the game is on- However last night I spent a couple hours replacing all 4 connections on the MPU.

Interesting, this board (It's a stern MPU200) has a header that isn't being used. It's a big one too! And, there is a large IC next to it, I think it might be the 6800 chip. Anyway, there are two pins. It looks like #1, and maybe #12 or so. for some reason they have created secondary connections for these two pins. They soldered wires directly onto the chip leg, and around to the underside of the board - I gather because the socket was bad. I've left well enough alone with that situation since I don't have a replacement 6800 chip at the moment.

Good news though, after replacing the 4 headers, I was able to get the game to come back up! Seems like I always have problems with the initial installation- I change the headers, and reflow any obvious cracks, and sometimes, if say a an added jumper wire is OBVIOUSLY too long and is causing hinderance when installed, I'll fix that.. And I saw a place where it looked as if they had globbed a bunch of solder on, so I cleaned that up a little. However it turns out that little glob was supposed to be there because it was fixing a trace that was somehow not working. They had fixed it by flowing a little extra solder on top of the almost non-existent trace.

Anyway, I plugged it all back together and she still runs at least! Also, during my first test game - It was 2am by this point - the game was consistent, and the sounds didn't get all screwed up. I haven't seen the displays crap out since I replaced them, but I hadn't been playing for very long.

-Brian

After someone asked if I'd replaced the headers on the MPU, I replaced all 4 that night. I almost - ALMOST enjoy swapping out headers now that I have my desoldering station. It's just -SO- easy compared to the solder sucker and wire braid method. I mean, I was able to do it, but this takes about 1/4 the time, and it's so much fun to hear the molten solder go 'Sluuurp!"

It doesn't hiss or beep, or freak out upon shaking.

Now, though, when it's in attract more, it will just reset itself every 10 or 15 minutes. I haven't seen it, but I'll hear it cycle all it's coils and reset the target bank.

Ideas on what causes THAT?

Alas.. silverball is having intermittent sound issues. Looks like it's my week to fix BALLYS!

-Brian

Let me take that back. It's stable as far as shaking it goes. However it does still beeeeep after sitting in attract mode for maybe 10 minutes or so. I've taken to setting background sound to nothing, and starting a game, and just let it sit like that making no noise. When you have to trick your pinball machine into shutting up This is a problem!

So just to recap- Heh - I have re-capped the sound board with new, replaced both the header, as well as the plug for the sound card. I've also replaced headers, and some plugs where they were broken, or kluge-soldered to the board or something for several of the plugs on the solenoid driver

Thanks for any advice!

-Brian

Let me take that back. It's stable as far as shaking it goes. However it does still beeeeep after sitting in attract mode for maybe 10 minutes or so. I've taken to setting background sound to nothing, and starting a game, and just let it sit like that making no noise. When you have to trick your pinball machine into shutting up This is a problem!

So just to recap- Heh - I have re-capped the sound board with new, replaced both the header, as well as the plug for the sound card. I've also replaced headers, and some plugs where they were broken, or kluge-soldered to the board or something for several of the plugs on the solenoid driver

Thanks for any advice!

-Brian

So the beep continues. I was thinking of swapping the sound board with one of my other games, just to see if that trait follows the board. At least I'd know it if it's the board, or the game. I wish there was a way to power the sound board (in the game) without having it have to interract with the CPU. That way, I could isolate the beep to the board, or the CPU somehow errantly telling the board to make this noise.

Such is the fun of pinball diagnosis!

-Brian

What a nightmare with this sound card! I've recapped it - replaced the headers, and plugs, it works now/ but still beeps after about 5 minutes. Sometimes only 3! But strangely- it seems to stop after a - unknown period of time. It just stopped beeping! Started a game, and didn't start beeping after it was done- this one is such a pickle!

I swapped it with sound board in silverball and the problem went away. It's definitely the card.

-Brian

Replaced the TDA 2002- still no fix, and more beeeeeeeeeeeep.

Just a little bump here--

More information gleaned from examination- It seems as though the problem only happens after you play a game- that is, if you turn if off and then turn it back on, it doesn't seem to go into high pitched beep mode. However if you play a game, after the ball drains for the last time, when the game is over in a few minutes without fail it starts to beep.

Like I said, I've replaced all the caps, the TDA2002, and would be happy to replace more chips, or resisters in hopes of fixing this issue but I hate the shotgun approach to fixing boards. I like the test chip, or the internal self-test method where two flashes mean it's the 5101, three flashes makes it the PIA, and so forth.

Anyone who is a hot dog with these bally sound cards please may I have your input?

-Brian