(Topic ID: 208174)

Future Spa: Father and Son's Second Restoration [COMPLETE]

By jsa

6 years ago


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#65 6 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

Repairing the cabinet has begun. We're starting with the separated front corners. Insert glue, camp, repeat.

While it dries, time to give the lamp panel some TLC. We were thinking of just doing the front:

Then when we saw the nasty back, with flux everywhere, decided to give it a once-over with 80 grit.

We must not forget about the recessed lamp panel for the Future Spa logo:

The panel will eventually get painted with a bright white and the recessed panel with a matte black.
We were also just reviewing various plastics. Unfortunately, as captainneo is learning happened with the playfield under the star posts, it seems the white plastics also leached red dye from the posts where they made contact and were never moved for 40 years:

I'm going to keep these plastics, though. I may replace the red posts, but the white ones are original with the Bally logo that you can't get anymore. I'll dress them up with some small shiny washers and you won't see the red.

While you sanded the lamp panel back you should clear it, your OCD will love it. I did it to my Jackbot (it has a real wood panel too) and it turned out great. One coat then sand another coat and sand then a final coat no buffing. Easy to clean now, not perfect but looks great.

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#69 6 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

I don't think a matte clear buys us anything.

Mines a gloss clear, easy to clean when it get's dirty. My camera does not do it justice.

1 week later
3 weeks later
#82 5 years ago

That looks like it's gonna work great. Hope you have enough light inside.

3 weeks later
#95 5 years ago

Looks like the paint booth is working good.

2 weeks later
#116 5 years ago

Looks like it's time to change your filters before you start to paint.

1 week later
#134 5 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

Unaltered coat of MC760 clear to lock down the colors. This is not the final surface as we will finish with a matte clear. Our intent is to sand this flatter, see how it looks, and decide if it needs another coat of clear and sanding prior to final topcoat.

That is really looking sharp.

1 month later
#177 5 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

Do you clean things that no one will ever see?

Of course. look at the back of my Jackbot bb light board.

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2 weeks later
#210 5 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

Finishing the bezel:
[quoted image]
Almost complete:
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Here is the last bit, coin door is done:
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Meanwhile, my son learns to use the desoldering gun.
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That's beautiful. I take it you had it chromed.

#213 5 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

Thanks, yes we did. It really comes down to whether or not we felt we could regrain it to a level we would be happy with or not, and the answer is no. Therefore, thanks to Chris at Hot Rod Arcades / pinballplating.com, we got this along with other parts plated beautifully.

Yeah Chris does great work, I bought all chrome armor from him for my ST Pro. The only thing left to chrome is the coin door but I'don't know about that.

#221 5 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

I like the permanent ones. Marco also sells the protectors that insert between with felt, but I prefer the permanent ones. On a decal, I'll score the protector and remove the decal beneath it to keep the decal from wrinkling as torque is applied to the legs. Here's our process for that:

Yes the permanent outer ones actually keep the legs away the cabinet wood.

#227 5 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

We've been slowly reconfiguring/cleaning up the cabinet harness...with lots of breaks. Right now, replacing diodes and capacitors, getting the line filter ready for mounting, etc.
First, some glamour shots of captainneo's great playfield work:
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Better then new.

#242 5 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

Cabinet is finished, hallelujah.
Here's some shots in crappy lighting, but you get the idea.
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#248 5 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

By the way, for the record: When you get chrome plated leg levelers, the challenge is that the threads get some chrome on them, and honestly you can't put lock nuts (or remove ones that were on them) over those threads without breaking the threads.
Does anyone sell chrome plated levelers where this isn't the case? Not that we need chrome plated levelers, which is really entering the silly category, but I'm curious.

Run a thread chaser on the threads and in the nut on the leg.

#249 5 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

Even if you prefer to put nuts beneath the legs (I never really understood this practice, I guess to keep it locked), you can't even adjust them.

I see it as not only having the threads in the legs taking the weight but the threads in the nuts under those nuts taking the weight too. So double the threads taking the weight.

2 weeks later
#285 5 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

All mechanical assemblies have been reassembled, coils have their new wrappers, everything cleaned and ready to go. Only two things to do before putting the playfield back together!
First, while the front of the playfield looks better than any Future Spa I've ever seen, the backside of the playfield is kind of gross. Wood splinters near the screw holes, rosin flux, some areas where it looks like paint was goopy or perhaps melted from a soldering iron, the inserts are dusty. Before I mount anything to this, I hit it with 320 grit. Some folks repaint the grey paint, that's not going to happen folks. No one cares. I barely cut into it and make it smooth as it possibly can be.
[quoted image]
A little insert cleaning and we're good to go. Second, the playfield harness. We chose to leave the sockets connected to the harness since we're replacing all the sockets anyway. As we tame the harness back into position later, the old bulbs will be clipped off but we'll use as a reference to make sure we got the right bulbs in the right place. We also left the switches attached to the harness, which has been cleaned. Out plan with these is to go switch by switch, replacing any diodes or capacitors with new ones. These switches look unused, but we find solder joints that are broken or corroded, the heat shrink used has expanded and hardened, there is corrosion on some of the solder, so doing this switch by switch is a PITA but necessary work. Would these be easier to do on the playfield? Maybe, we like doing it at a table, plus it keeps everything where it should be for the reassembly. OMG SO MANY SWITCHES.
[quoted image]

Seem kind of a shame not to at least paint the back side to cover all the splinters.

#289 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Do it Kruzman style and apply a thin single coat of shellac or poly with a foam brush?
It doesn't have to be pretty it's for protection.
Stick a soft sponge in each hole as you go, it's not too bad at all.
The theory is that the coating will ward off black fingerprints in the future and it's somewhat washable.
And it's a nice touch.

That's why I did the back side (minus the sponge trick) of my bb light board on Jackbot.

#304 5 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

Ok you glorious, wonderful, obsessive (like me) people, here is a freshly painted underside.
[quoted image]
I can just picture it now:
Friend 1, "Did you see Jay's Future Spa?"
Friend 2, "I did! Did you see the underside of his playfield? It's such a smooth grey!"
Friend 1, "Profoundly glorious."
Friend 2, "But what's the toilet paper in the photo for?"
Friend 1, "Best not to ask these questions."

Ah man that looks great. Now don't you feel better.

#318 5 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

I should also point out we replaced the pop bumper bayonet lamps with wedge style. The original bayonets were so unreliable and corroded they were trash. While we may be able to find replacements, the wedges will be more flexible for what we need going forward.

Are you using Vids trick for keeping the lamp base straight up and down?

1 week later
#335 5 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

Assemblies in place...
[quoted image]

So clean you could eat of it.

2 weeks later
#406 5 years ago

Turned out beautiful. A HEP quality job.

#412 5 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

As with all of these restorations, it couldn't happen without all your support along the way, so thank you so much from both of us. There were times when we literally thought we couldn't make it this time (automotive paints, omg) but your encouragement kept us going.
Thanks to this amazing community! I probably forgot a few, but a quick shout out to a few of you amazing peeps:
mustangpaul arcane vid1900 atari_daze bryan_kelly high_end_pins quench barakandl inkochnito mof jethrop @jjsmoth pintechev radium g94 cottonm4 xenon75 bjm-maxx jibmums trk12fire rack-em-up pinzap elicash grnrzr chill lb1 steamfitter joey_n pinkid the4horse pinballinreno tommy-dog tsskinne madmax541 legtod2 roygbev groucho hawkmoon lynnindenver nimblepin squeakman mk1mod0 redketchup wm6929 heni1977 wolffcub skins
You folks are the best.
Now help me find this source of lamp flashing. LOL!

Your VERY welcome. I REALLY enjoyed watching you two do this, I just wish I had the time to do something like this. I'll follow another of your resto's if and when you decide to do another.

#423 5 years ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

This game turned out awesome...stunning example! Congrats to both you and your son.
I just picked one up tonight...and now you’re making me want to go the distance given how beautiful this game looks when done with as much effort as you put in. Truly fantastic job.

Well if anyone could do it you can.

#430 5 years ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

Yeah Paul, I don’t know about that. Taking it to this level, with a HEP style restoration, would be kicking it up a notch for me.

I think you could do it, this is the perfect guide for you.

2 weeks later
#665 5 years ago

I'm so happy that other Pinsiders jumped in to help you figure this out. I was no help at all because I'm a dummy when it comes to electronics and it was all Greek to me. Congrats.

#677 5 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

In her new location, at least for now:
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If you look closely, you can just see a little purple coming out the neck grill... just a little extra flair for dark rooms.
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That is so pretty I'd be afraid to touch it.

#680 5 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

That's the thing, fiberglass resin, automotive paints... Holy crap, this thing is a tank. I wonder how much this machine weighs in comparison to before the teardown from bondo, fiberglass resin, paint and clear.

Weigh it.

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