(Topic ID: 208174)

Future Spa: Father and Son's Second Restoration [COMPLETE]


By jsa

1 year ago



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  • Latest reply 11 months ago by Bryan_Kelly
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There are 682 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 14.
#201 1 year ago

Ok, almost finished restoring the coin door, just a few steps left.

IMG_2137.JPG

For starters, it's time to remove these old sockets. They're wrecked, and we're just going to replace all the sockets in the game with new ones. Here's an example:

IMG_2138.JPG

Once replaced, we like to test all the connections with a 9V battery:

IMG_2144.JPG

Then there is the matter of the burnt out coil on the latch magnet assembly. This is the coil that almost always is burnt out and buzzing, and either should be or is already disconnected. Here's the burnt one:

IMG_2148.JPG

Now you may ask, why replace it at all? I have no answer for you. OCD. Everything must work or I lose sleep.

Preparing new coil wrapper for the working replacement coil:

IMG_2142.JPG

Looks pretty sharp!

IMG_2143.JPG

Then in there, as good as new:

IMG_2147.JPG

Only thing left to do here is to re-assemble the skin, hinges and bezel.

#202 1 year ago

Even if you replace the burned out lock-out coil, I would leave it disconnected.

Less noise, less heat, less electrical consumption - and it will never burn out again.

#203 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Even if you replace the burned out lock-out coil, I would leave it disconnected.
Less noise, less heat, less electrical consumption - and it will never burn out again.

Great advice. I'll probably work in a molex and leave it disconnected.

#204 1 year ago

If you took lots of step by step pictures to reassembling and reassembling your coin door I’d greatly appreciate seeing those as I recently took apart a Bally coin door from a centaur and my pics are missing, I feel like it’s the most over engineered thing ever when I look at all the parts in my box.

#205 1 year ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

If you took lots of step by step pictures to reassembling and reassembling your coin door I’d greatly appreciate seeing those as I recently took apart a Bally coin door from a centaur and my pics are missing, I feel like it’s the most over engineered thing ever when I look at all the parts in my box.

I did, I'm happy to help. I'll PM you.

#206 1 year ago

Put the pics up on pisides restoration section under future spa

Then everyone can use in the future...

#207 1 year ago

Finishing the bezel:

IMG_2151.JPG

Almost complete:

IMG_2152.JPG

Here is the last bit, coin door is done:

IMG_2157.JPG

Meanwhile, my son learns to use the desoldering gun.

IMG_2153.JPG

#208 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Put the pics up on pisides restoration section under future spa
Then everyone can use in the future...

When you say "under Future Spa," do you mean with it's own topic? Happy to post them up but I don't want to flood the club or people following this...

#210 1 year ago
Quoted from jsa:

Finishing the bezel:
[quoted image]
Almost complete:
[quoted image]
Here is the last bit, coin door is done:
[quoted image]
Meanwhile, my son learns to use the desoldering gun.
[quoted image]

That's beautiful. I take it you had it chromed.

#211 1 year ago

...and now back to the cabinet. My son connects the new modern-style leg brackets along with the cabinet protectors. The reason we do this first is we make sure they are properly aligned with the leg bolts, pre-drill the holes, then remove the brackets for placement of the ground braid.

IMG_2160.JPG

IMG_2159.JPG

Here you can see the ground braid partially installed. We're taking the strategy more similar to how we did our BoP, a main strip and tributaries. Also, we intend on grounding the prop bar and speaker base as well.

IMG_2161.JPG

#212 1 year ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

That's beautiful. I take it you had it chromed.

Thanks, yes we did. It really comes down to whether or not we felt we could regrain it to a level we would be happy with or not, and the answer is no. Therefore, thanks to Chris at Hot Rod Arcades / pinballplating.com, we got this along with other parts plated beautifully.

#213 1 year ago
Quoted from jsa:

Thanks, yes we did. It really comes down to whether or not we felt we could regrain it to a level we would be happy with or not, and the answer is no. Therefore, thanks to Chris at Hot Rod Arcades / pinballplating.com, we got this along with other parts plated beautifully.

Yeah Chris does great work, I bought all chrome armor from him for my ST Pro. The only thing left to chrome is the coin door but I'don't know about that.

#214 1 year ago
Quoted from jsa:

When you say "under Future Spa," do you mean with it's own topic? Happy to post them up but I don't want to flood the club or people following this...

The shopout gallery

https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/future-spa/gallery

#215 1 year ago
Quoted from jsa:

...and now back to the cabinet. My son connects the new modern-style leg brackets along with the cabinet protectors. The reason we do this first is we make sure they are properly aligned with the leg bolts, pre-drill the holes, then remove the brackets for placement of the ground braid.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Here you can see the ground braid partially installed. We're taking the strategy more similar to how we did our BoP, a main strip and tributaries. Also, we intend on grounding the prop bar and speaker base as well.
[quoted image]

So, I have a few Bally cabinets to restore, incl Future Spa, but am building a lower KISS cabinet from scratch.

Very interested in the newer corner brackets and protectors like that.

What do you recommend/where is best place to buy these? Are they a system/set?

#216 1 year ago
Quoted from Joey_N:

Very interested in the newer corner brackets and protectors like that.
What do you recommend/where is best place to buy these? Are they a system/set?

Pinball Life sells those for $14 a set. I use them on all my pinball machines. Most efficient and discrete protectors.

Yves

#217 1 year ago
Quoted from Arcane:

Pinball Life sells those for $14 a set. I use them on all my pinball machines. Most efficient and discrete protectors.
Yves

Thanks. Will look it up!

#218 1 year ago
Quoted from Joey_N:

So, I have a few Bally cabinets to restore, incl Future Spa, but am building a lower KISS cabinet from scratch.
Very interested in the newer corner brackets and protectors like that.
What do you recommend/where is best place to buy these? Are they a system/set?

Right, Pinball Life also has brackets as does Marco. The inner brackets are here:

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=144

or Marco:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-11400-1

The outer brackets we got from Pinball Life as mentioned above, though Marco also sells them here:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-0599-00

I like the permanent ones. Marco also sells the protectors that insert between with felt, but I prefer the permanent ones. On a decal, I'll score the protector and remove the decal beneath it to keep the decal from wrinkling as torque is applied to the legs. Here's our process for that:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bop-father-and-sons-first-restoration/page/6#post-3413133

#219 1 year ago

Great. Yeah, I couldn't find the inner bracket on Pinball Life. Going to need to some of this stuff. On the new KISS cabinet build, I'll just use new inner brackets. I think like the idea of the outer bracket over a new paint job.

#220 1 year ago
Quoted from Joey_N:

Great. Yeah, I couldn't find the inner bracket on Pinball Life. Going to need to some of this stuff. On the new KISS cabinet build, I'll just use new inner brackets. I think like the idea of the outer bracket over a new paint job.

You don’t see them, and they provide a solid surface against which to mount the kegs. The stencils left the area blank anyway, almost like it was designed for it.

I suppose it pushes into our clear coat, but so would the legs.

#221 1 year ago
Quoted from jsa:

I like the permanent ones. Marco also sells the protectors that insert between with felt, but I prefer the permanent ones. On a decal, I'll score the protector and remove the decal beneath it to keep the decal from wrinkling as torque is applied to the legs. Here's our process for that:

Yes the permanent outer ones actually keep the legs away the cabinet wood.

#222 1 year ago

New connector which will remain disconnected for coin door latch magnet coil:

2E86A4EE-F396-4140-8B7A-6381E5D465B9 (resized).jpeg

#223 1 year ago

You can get back surgery in the morning, and still terminate new connectors on a cabinet wiring harness.

IMG_2181 (resized).JPG

It gave me time to really look into what the difference is between all these crimp on connectors. The GPE box connectors can handle the high current (45570-3050) pins, whereas the Marco connectors look like the original but can only handle the standard (08-52-0113). I'm trying to use the high-current ones for any pins which have burnt in the past, but the regular ones are probably fine.

This doesn't even get into the .100 trifurcon connectors... I'm going with 4amp, though clearly the 2.5amp are out there as well.

#224 1 year ago

We've been slowly reconfiguring/cleaning up the cabinet harness...with lots of breaks. Right now, replacing diodes and capacitors, getting the line filter ready for mounting, etc.

First, some glamour shots of captainneo's great playfield work:

IMG_2209.JPG
IMG_2210.JPG
IMG_2211.JPG
IMG_2213.JPG

#225 1 year ago
Quoted from jsa:

Ok, almost finished restoring the coin door, just a few steps left.
[quoted image]
For starters, it's time to remove these old sockets. They're wrecked, and we're just going to replace all the sockets in the game with new ones. Here's an example:
[quoted image]
Once replaced, we like to test all the connections with a 9V battery:
[quoted image]
Then there is the matter of the burnt out coil on the latch magnet assembly. This is the coil that almost always is burnt out and buzzing, and either should be or is already disconnected. Here's the burnt one:
[quoted image]
Now you may ask, why replace it at all? I have no answer for you. OCD. Everything must work or I lose sleep.
Preparing new coil wrapper for the working replacement coil:
[quoted image]
Looks pretty sharp!
[quoted image]
Then in there, as good as new:
[quoted image]
Only thing left to do here is to re-assemble the skin, hinges and bezel.

Where did you get coil wrappers?

#226 1 year ago

Kudo’s to you and your son. I am green with envy that you and your son have something common to bond to.
You are building together a legacy and something to be proud of.
Well done.

#227 1 year ago
Quoted from jsa:

We've been slowly reconfiguring/cleaning up the cabinet harness...with lots of breaks. Right now, replacing diodes and capacitors, getting the line filter ready for mounting, etc.
First, some glamour shots of captainneo's great playfield work:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Better then new.

#228 1 year ago

Thanks all!

Quoted from Madmax541:

Where did you get coil wrappers?

We produce them thanks to Pinbal Rebel's work. His coil wrappers can be found here, don't forget to donate to his site for all his hard work!

http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/

We then choose to print them using a laser printer or inkjet onto this paper that we found match the colors of our original coils (they weren't particularly dirty, but we like the clean look of the new wrappers):

IMG_2216 (resized).JPG

Which can be found here:

amazon.com link »

We then cut them using our paper cutter, and some regular school glue stick to make it stick to itself around the coil. We actually don't put any glue between the coil and the wrapper, we don't really see the point.

#229 1 year ago

Can anyone tell me if it is advisable to add capacitors to the flipper cabinet button switches (not the flipper assemblies, got that already)? I can't remember the rule of thumb for these early Bally SS machines. vid1900 ?

#230 1 year ago
Quoted from jsa:

Can anyone tell me if it is advisable to add capacitors to the flipper cabinet button switches (not the flipper assemblies, got that already)? I can't remember the rule of thumb for these early Bally SS machines. vid1900 ?

Absolutely not. The flippers are not controlled by the CPU.

The purpose of the capacitors is to help detect a very quick and too fast contact that may take place while the CPU is busy doing something else.

For the flippers, you need fresh (or clean) contacts and a new fuse holder under your playfield.

Yves

#231 1 year ago
Quoted from Arcane:

Absolutely not. The flippers are not controlled by the CPU.
The purpose of the capacitors is to help detect a very quick and too fast contact that may take place while the CPU is busy doing something else.
For the flippers, you need fresh (or clean) contacts and a new fuse holder under your playfield.
Yves

Got it, thanks. I'll use the dollar bill method and make sure they are clean.

#232 1 year ago

Finishing up the new power switch:

IMG_2217.JPG

Knocker assembly completed:

IMG_2218.JPG

#233 1 year ago

All the harnesses (save the playfield harness, which will come later) have had all their box connectors replaced and wires re-terminated/pinned.

IMG_2243 (resized).JPG

I'm guessing that everyone doesn't do this. This is a tedious process. Maybe there is a faster way to do it, but if so, I haven't figured it out. It took the better part of two days.

Some lessons learned:

- You don't have enough trifurcon connectors, ever. Order hundreds.

- Once we inspected closely, there is corrosion on everything, despite everything appearing great condition on the surface. Dishwashing the harness actually didn't change that, just made everything but the metal itself super shiny. Given the burnt connectors, I think I'm now in agreement with high_end_pins that you just have to redo all of these.

- We used 08-52-0113 trifurcons for most of the .156 connections, and 45570-3050 trifurcons ("box" style) for anything we knew were higher amperage. That's probably overkill. I'm not sure I'd bother with the 45570-3050's again. When you order rebuild kits, you usually get the regular nylon box connectors anyway, which you can't use with the 45570-3050's. Fortunately we mostly had the larger/more robust box connectors as we didn't order kits.

- We used 08-52-0123 trifurcons for most of the .100 connections. The only exception was on a 28 pin connector where we used the TE/Amp version.

- TE/Amp trifurcons are really cool and look/feel more solid. Sorry, just saying what I'm seeing. I may switch to those in the future...though the Molex crimping tool is easier to use.

This did give me a chance to correct previous hacks and band-aids. It also exposed me to some problem areas that will help later when this gets reassembled.

#234 1 year ago

Very tedious but it will pay off in the long run. Those old Classic Bally games with the first generation Power supply were poorly designed and most issues are coming from undersized Pins (especially the static GI and the switched lights).

What you did, should give you years of enjoyment without having to worry or be frustrated when half the game goes dark, during a pinball party.

Yves

#235 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Even if you replace the burned out lock-out coil, I would leave it disconnected.
Less noise, less heat, less electrical consumption - and it will never burn out again.

On all early Bally SS, the lockout coil turns off just before the bonus count, then turns on again at the start of the next ball. You can hear it clearly. On Paragon, it turns off while the ball is in the Golden Cliffs saucer (no idea why), and I'm sure some other Ballys have similar quirks. If you're used to the coin-op experience, the lockout sound is a part of that, and you notice when it's missing. That's why I keep it on mine, but if you don't remember the game on location then it doesn't matter.

#236 1 year ago

A little bolt polishing... before:

IMG_2244.JPG

After:

IMG_2246.JPG

Working on more braid and the neck mesh:

IMG_2247.JPG

Glass slides in along with the rear plates, neck mesh, etc.

IMG_2250.JPG

#237 1 year ago

Who did you order your crimpers and connectors from?

#238 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Who did you order your crimpers and connectors from?

Most of the connectors I get from GPE or Mouser. Here's an example of a GPE page I order from:

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=86

Mouser is great if you specifically know what you need in larger quantity and you can't find it at GPE.

As far as crimpers... Man, I've been collecting those for years. The good ones are expensive (i.e. hundreds of dollars each). The Waldom crimper is ok, but the handle grip keeps coming off and they aren't great for higher gauge Trifercons, IMHO. I'd love a Molex crimper die for the .156 (I only have .100), though I'm not sure where to get it.

#240 1 year ago

More progress.

IMG_2252.JPG
IMG_2251.JPG

#241 1 year ago

Cabinet is finished, hallelujah.

Here's some shots in crappy lighting, but you get the idea.

IMG_2261.JPG

IMG_2258.JPG

IMG_2259.JPG

IMG_2256.JPG

IMG_2260.JPG

#242 1 year ago
Quoted from jsa:

Cabinet is finished, hallelujah.
Here's some shots in crappy lighting, but you get the idea.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

#243 1 year ago

By the way, for the record: When you get chrome plated leg levelers, the challenge is that the threads get some chrome on them, and honestly you can't put lock nuts (or remove ones that were on them) over those threads without breaking the threads.

Does anyone sell chrome plated levelers where this isn't the case? Not that we need chrome plated levelers, which is really entering the silly category, but I'm curious.

#244 1 year ago
Quoted from jsa:

By the way, for the record: When you get chrome plated leg levelers, the challenge is that the threads get some chrome on them, and honestly you can't put lock nuts (or remove ones that were on them) over those threads without breaking the threads.
Does anyone sell chrome plated levelers where this isn't the case? Not that we need chrome plated levelers, which is really entering the silly category, but I'm curious.

Don't they normally wrap the threads with something so they don't get chromed? I've never had an issue with chrome leg bolts.

#245 1 year ago

Also, this is a guess, maybe some of the more experienced folk can comment: I'm pretty sure Bally used wiring harnesses designed around non-widebody games in their widebody games (Paragon, Future Spa). I may be wrong but judging from the lengths I think they got cheap here.

Also, re-pinning connectors, anyone know what the pins that come off the cabinet harness towards the coin door that have no matching wires in the coin door connector are for? Maybe European purposes?

#246 1 year ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Don't they normally wrap the threads with something so they don't get chromed? I've never had an issue with chrome leg bolts.

That would make sense... but in this case, our rear leg levelers arrived with the nuts on them and were a bitch and a half to take off, ruining one of the threads in the process. Even if you prefer to put nuts beneath the legs (I never really understood this practice, I guess to keep it locked), you can't even adjust them.

#247 1 year ago
Quoted from jsa:

By the way, for the record: When you get chrome plated leg levelers, the challenge is that the threads get some chrome on them, and honestly you can't put lock nuts (or remove ones that were on them) over those threads without breaking the threads.
Does anyone sell chrome plated levelers where this isn't the case? Not that we need chrome plated levelers, which is really entering the silly category, but I'm curious.

Nuts made for plated bolts are specified as "Tapped Oversized"

https://www.walmart.com/ip/3-8-16-Heavy-Hex-Nuts-Tapped-Oversize-Coarse-Thread-Steel-Hot-Dip-Galvanized-Quantity-1600/414102468

#248 1 year ago
Quoted from jsa:

By the way, for the record: When you get chrome plated leg levelers, the challenge is that the threads get some chrome on them, and honestly you can't put lock nuts (or remove ones that were on them) over those threads without breaking the threads.
Does anyone sell chrome plated levelers where this isn't the case? Not that we need chrome plated levelers, which is really entering the silly category, but I'm curious.

Run a thread chaser on the threads and in the nut on the leg.

#249 1 year ago
Quoted from jsa:

Even if you prefer to put nuts beneath the legs (I never really understood this practice, I guess to keep it locked), you can't even adjust them.

I see it as not only having the threads in the legs taking the weight but the threads in the nuts under those nuts taking the weight too. So double the threads taking the weight.

#250 1 year ago

Very clean installation with no ground loops. Well done!

Yves

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