Future Spa: Father and Son's Second Restoration [COMPLETE]

Quoted from barakandl:
Right at a feature lamp that flickers what voltage do you read on the bare wire? Is it more than a couple tenths of a V lower than what you get at the rectifier board? Perhaps the bare wire chain going around the PF is just hanging on by a thread somewhere and it is dropping voltage.
You can even make a single lamp tester for a sanity check. Take a lamp socket. One end put a wire with gator clip on it. The other end put a 0.100" crimp and put it into a small connector housing. You can then attach the gator clip right to the feature lamp bus somewhere you know is solid and then plug the connector end into a lamp driver male pin, like at Q14 and see if your lamp still flickers.

I already did a test where I unplugged all the lamps from the LDB, took a lamp socket, with one wire on the LDB pin that flickers, and the other on the test pad on your rectifier. Flickered just the same. Seems to be localized to the backbox.

#453 5 years ago

JSA

jsa

Pinside+ Addict

Quoted from vid1900:
The power comes from the uninsulated bus wire that chains along from socket to socket, so make sure that the end of a row loops over to another row of controlled lamps rather than dead ends.
I'd also test the resistance of the wire from the crimp you made in the backbox, to the end of the unsoldered wire from the socket tab. The crimp could be bad, the wire could have gotten pinched....

Is there a similar resistance test I should try on an element of the backbox wiring?

#454 5 years ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-as-2518-club/page/26#post-4620922

OP
Quoted from jsa:
I already did a test where I unplugged all the lamps from the LDB, took a lamp socket, with one wire on the LDB pin that flickers, and the other on the test pad on your rectifier.

When we did this, was the game in attract mode, lamp test mode?

barakandl and vid1900 the video here shows the single lamp test wired directly from the rectifier board to the lamp board (playfield is disconnected). Lamp is an incandescent. Normally in attract mode this lamp flashes exactly the same way it does in lamp test mode but you can see it's also flickering.

So this eliminates lamp power connectors from the rectifier board or playfield wiring as the issue.

jsa I have to agree with barakandl and vid1900 though, at this point you need to try swapping some of those SCRs. Put aside the fact that two lamp boards are doing it. Maybe those SCRs have been shocked by something you did on the playfield.
I would swap Q14 on the Bally lamp board, disconnect the playfield and then try the single incandescent lamp test directly between the lamp board and rectifier board again in whatever mode has been inducing the flicker.

#455 5 years ago

ZIT

Zitt

Pinball-Mods.com

Austin, TX

11y 112K 7,866 15 10

Quench,
Again; he (@Jsa) gets the same result with two different MPU and CPU boards... The only way the flickering can be tied to the SCRs is if both boards got damaged by a mistake in the same way... or sheer dumb luck.

Other than that - I really have not idea what's going on with this game. :S

#456 5 years ago

JSA

jsa

Pinside+ Addict

Quoted from Zitt:
Quench,
Again; he (Jsa) gets the same result with two different MPU and CPU boards... The only way the flickering can be tied to the SCRs is if both boards got damaged by a mistake in the same way... or sheer dumb luck.
Other than that - I really have not idea what's going on with this game. :S

It’s possible I shocked both sets of SCRs somehow. I’m not sure what action does that but it can’t hurt to try a swap. I’m game.

#457 5 years ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

Quoted from Zitt:
Again; he (Jsa) gets the same result with two different MPU and CPU boards...

I know, we've gone in depth through this issue when it was being discussed in the "Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club" thread before it got moved back here. There are plenty of oscilloscope waveforms taken while we were trying to determine what was happening. Everything apart from the SCRs failing to latch about 2 out of 3 times seems normal.

Quickly scroll through these:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-as-2518-club/page/26
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-as-2518-club/page/27

Quoted from Zitt:
The only way the flickering can be tied to the SCRs is if both boards got damaged by a mistake in the same way... or sheer dumb luck.

Yes, we've almost exhausted everything so this is why we're suggesting to swap the SCRs just incase both lamp boards have the same issue.

Quoted from Zitt:
Other than that - I really have not idea what's going on with this game. :S

It's truly bizarre...

#458 5 years ago

JSA

jsa

Pinside+ Addict

What damages a SCR? A short?

#459 5 years ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from jsa:
What damages a SCR? A short?

A short at the lamp socket usually.

When I took the waveforms on my lamp board in the other thread, the next day one of the LEDs I was nowhere near tampering with on that game started flickering ON when it was supposed to be OFF. After an hour or two that SCR eventually got stuck on. There was no short and it happened out of the blue - the SCR just died a natural death.

#460 5 years ago

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 164K 40,202 18

OP
Quoted from jsa:
What damages a SCR? A short?

A short, or somebody poking around with the machine on and giving it a blast of solenoid power.

This one burned a hole right through the casing.

IMG_20181013_015243537_BURST000_COVER_TOP (resized).jpg

#461 5 years ago

JSA

jsa

Pinside+ Addict

Well, I swapped Q14 and Q31 (unused on Future Spa). I unplugged the playfield/cabinet/lamp panel connectors from the LDB so nothing there could fry the SCR. I then hooked up a socket with an incandescent to Pin 18 on the LDB (center target S, Q14) and the other lead to the TP1 on the rectifier. No change, flickers when on. I also re-crimped/terminated the ZC wire between the rectifier and MPU. No change.

I honestly can't think of anything else except for something bizarre on the rectifier board. I think my next move here will be to swap the rectifier/transformer with a known working rectifier/transformer and see if there is a change. I suppose I could put my old rectifier back, but it was such a frankenstein mess that I'd prefer to let it be vs. desolder/resolder the whole thing, plus figure out how to manage the hack jobs. Also, I'm confident in @barakandl's work.

#462 5 years ago

TOM

pinballinreno

OP
Quoted from jsa:
Well, I swapped Q14 and Q31 (unused on Future Spa). I unplugged the playfield/cabinet/lamp panel connectors from the LDB so nothing there could fry the SCR. I then hooked up a socket with an incandescent to Pin 18 on the LDB (center target S, Q14) and the other lead to the TP1 on the rectifier. No change, flickers when on. I also re-crimped/terminated the ZC wire between the rectifier and MPU. No change.
I honestly can't think of anything else except for something bizarre on the rectifier board. I think my next move here will be to swap the rectifier/transformer with a known working rectifier/transformer and see if there is a change. I suppose I could put my old rectifier back, but it was such a frankenstein mess that I'd prefer to let it be vs. desolder/resolder the whole thing, plus figure out how to manage the hack jobs. Also, I'm confident in barakandl's work.

Have you tried adding a 370 or 470 ohm resistor in series to the lamp to increase the load? This should force the SCR to zero out unless you have ground problems.

#463 5 years ago

JSA

jsa

Pinside+ Addict

Quoted from pinballinreno:
Have you tried adding a 370 or 470 ohm resistor in series to the lamp to increase the load? This should force the SCR to zero out unless you have ground problems.

Yes, I have. No change. I've also tried that with an Alltek as the LDB and that also has a 470 ohm resistor built in, and connected to the 6.3vdc control lamp rail as well.

What we have is, for whatever reason, the control lamp on just address 0 on the four decoders doesn't hit the necessary on voltage on every cycle. You see the spike, so it's trying, but it doesn't do it. It's like something is sucking the voltage away. Most of the other SCRs work fine, I have mixed experiences on AD1. We're talking about maybe 15 lamps of the whole thing behaving this way.

Note also, you can unplug ALL the lamps from the LDB, and check the waveforms on the gate legs of the SCRs, and you'll see it there. It's nothing on the playfield.

#464 5 years ago

TOM

pinballinreno

OP
Quoted from jsa:
Yes, I have. No change. I've also tried that with an Alltek as the LDB and that also has a 470 ohm resistor built in, and connected to the 6.3vdc control lamp rail as well.
What we have is, for whatever reason, the control lamp on just address 0 on the four decoders doesn't hit the necessary on voltage on every cycle. You see the spike, so it's trying, but it doesn't do it. It's like something is sucking the voltage away. Most of the other SCRs work fine, I have mixed experiences on AD1. We're talking about maybe 15 lamps of the whole thing behaving this way.
Note also, you can unplug ALL the lamps from the LDB, and check the waveforms on the gate legs of the SCRs, and you'll see it there. It's nothing on the playfield.

If that is the case then I would replace the SCR's with ones from a different vendor/manufacturer. They might be out of spec or another component on the LDB is making them unhappy.

#465 5 years ago

JSA

jsa

Pinside+ Addict

Quoted from pinballinreno:
If that is the case then I would replace the SCR's with ones from a different vendor/manufacturer. They might be out of spec.

I did a swap of SCRs already, and I also swapped the entire LDB (between original Bally and Alltek), same results.

I also re-crimped and terminated the four address lines and strobe lines between the MPU and the LDB, and I also re-crimped and terminated the ZC lines between the rectifier and the MPU.

#466 5 years ago

TOM

pinballinreno

OP
Quoted from jsa:
I did a swap of SCRs already, and I also swapped the entire LDB (between original Bally and Alltek), same results.

DC ripple or noise in the ground system? If its in the board then its a supply line problem either power or ground.

#467 5 years ago

JSA

jsa

Pinside+ Addict

Quoted from pinballinreno:
DC ripple or noise in the ground system?

That's what I would love to know more about. How would I go about finding that? Could it be related to the line filter? I've tried running this on different circuits with nothing on the circuits in the house.

#468 5 years ago

JSA

jsa

Pinside+ Addict

OP
Quoted from jsa:
That's what I would love to know more about. How would I go about finding that? Could it be related to the line filter? I've tried running this on different circuits with nothing on the circuits in the house.

I should add I *did* replace the line filter, the only electronic things I replaced is the rectifier and line filter in this restoration.

#469 5 years ago

TOM

pinballinreno

Quoted from pinballinreno:
If its in the board then its a supply line problem either power or ground.

You shoud be able to see it on the o-scope. Possibly from the power supply.

#470 5 years ago

TOM

pinballinreno

Quoted from pinballinreno:
You shoud be able to see it on the o-scope. Possibly from the power supply.

Could definitely be a rectifier problem. DC ripple causes this sort of thing to happen.

If you think about it, the SCR is being knocked loose and dropping the latch.

#471 5 years ago

JSA

jsa

Pinside+ Addict

Quoted from pinballinreno:
Could definitely be a rectifier problem. DC ripple causes this sort of thing to happen.

I love it. What should I connect to to measure the wave form and find the ripple?

#472 5 years ago

TOM

pinballinreno

OP
Quoted from jsa:
I love it. What should I connect to to measure the wave form and find the ripple?

I dont have the game to look at but I would test the input power and ground, then compare it to the output power and ground.
Ground should always be dead. Start at the source and work down to the SCR.

Voltage should be very flat DC after the rectifier, no pulsations. If not then the rectifier isnt doing its job.

#473 5 years ago

JSA

jsa

Pinside+ Addict

Quoted from pinballinreno:
I dont have the game to look at but I would test the input power and ground, then compare it to the output power and ground.
Ground should always be dead. Start at the source and work down to the SCR.
Voltage should be very flat-line after the rectifier, no pulsations. If not then the rectifier isnt doing its job.

Ok, so what we're talking about is measuring AC power as it comes into the line filter, measure it after the line filter, as it goes into the rectifier, then measure the output DC voltage waveform coming out of the rectifier heading towards the MPU. Could I do that with the test points?

#474 5 years ago

TOM

pinballinreno

OP
Quoted from jsa:
Ok, so what we're talking about is measuring AC power as it comes into the line filter, measure it after the line filter, as it goes into the rectifier, then measure the output DC voltage waveform coming out of the rectifier heading towards the MPU. Could I do that with the test points?

Yes as well as some careful probing onboard. Follow the power paths on the schematic.

#475 5 years ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

Quoted from pinballinreno:
Voltage should be very flat DC after the rectifier, no pulsations. If not then the rectifier isnt doing its job.

The job of a rectifier is to convert AC to DC. It does not remove ripple - that's the job of a filter capacitor/regulator.

The lamp DC supply was already measured here with a scope (second image):
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-as-2518-club/page/26#post-4620933
As you can see it is rectified but unregulated DC (full of ripple). The whole design of this lamp circuit relies on the ripple dropping to zero volts in order for the SCRs to switch off. If the lamp voltage was flat regulated DC the lamps would never switch off.

#476 5 years ago

TOM

pinballinreno

Quoted from Quench:
The job of a rectifier is to convert AC to DC. It does not remove ripple - that's the job of a filter capacitor/regulator.
The lamp DC supply was already measured here with your scope (second image):
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-as-2518-club/page/26#post-4620933
As you can see it is rectified but unregulated DC (full of ripple). The whole design of this lamp circuit relies on the ripple dropping to zero volts in order for the SCRs to switch off. If the lamp voltage was flat regulated DC the lamps would never switch off.

So, a filter problem?
I totally admit Im rusty on this stuff. But it seems that the power isnt stable enough to stay latched.
Something in the ground or power supply that isnt being addressed.

#477 5 years ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

Quoted from pinballinreno:
So, either too much or too little ripple?

It's unregulated DC so ripple is going to be full scale. The only thing that can affect the peak is the voltage out of the transformer and load. The DC voltage in the waveform jsa took looks a little high, but if anything that should have made things better, not worse since the SCRs would have more current flow to cause them to latch.

#478 5 years ago

TOM

pinballinreno

Quoted from pinballinreno:
So, a filter problem?
I totally admit Im rusty on this stuff. But it seems that the power isnt stable enough to stay latched.
Something in the ground or power supply that isnt being addressed.

Low or anemic current flow to the SCR?

#479 5 years ago

TOM

pinballinreno

Quoted from pinballinreno:
Low or anemic current flow to the SCR?

My premise is that its power or ground related since its not the playfield or LDB boards.

#480 5 years ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

Quoted from pinballinreno:
My premise is that its power or ground related since its not the playfield or LBD boards.

We already tested connecting a lamp directly to the rectifier board - same issue.
I think we measured ground voltages earlier (can't remember what they were) - there is probably merit in running a jumper wire directly from the rectifier board ground to the lamp driver board ground.

#481 5 years ago

JSA

jsa

Pinside+ Addict

Quoted from Quench:
We already tested connecting a lamp directly to the rectifier board.
I think we measured ground voltages earlier - there is probably merit in running a jumper wire directly from the rectifier board to the lamp driver board.

I've heard this from friends who repair pins in SF... That it "smells" of power or ground related issues. While no one has a specific suggestion, the ground could be suspect. When we restored the cabinet, we ran new ground braid, and followed the original path, with one exception: We eliminated all the unnecessary loops that the original game had put in the main cabinet. The backbox, though, is 100% identical.

If I were to run a jumper from the rectifier board to the lamp driver board, what exactly do you mean? You're talking about disconnecting the power and ground from the board connectors, and running it directly somehow to the rectifier?

#482 5 years ago

TOM

pinballinreno

OP
Quoted from jsa:
I've heard this from friends who repair pins in SF... That it "smells" of power or ground related issues. While no one has a specific suggestion, the ground could be suspect. When we restored the cabinet, we ran new ground braid, and followed the original path, with one exception: We eliminated all the unnecessary loops that the original game had put in the main cabinet. The backbox, though, is 100% identical.
If I were to run a jumper from the rectifier board to the lamp driver board, what exactly do you mean? You're talking about disconnecting the power and ground from the board connectors, and running it directly somehow to the rectifier?

Since you changed out the rectifier board, and the original rectifier board worked, the problem is with the rectifier board.

I guess you could put the old one back in, it's a a lot of work but would give you a base line test.

Im not clear on the differences between the 2 types of boards. taking some measurements might be enlightening.

#483 5 years ago

JSA

jsa

Pinside+ Addict

OP
Quoted from jsa:
I've heard this from friends who repair pins in SF... That it "smells" of power or ground related issues. While no one has a specific suggestion, the ground could be suspect. When we restored the cabinet, we ran new ground braid, and followed the original path, with one exception: We eliminated all the unnecessary loops that the original game had put in the main cabinet. The backbox, though, is 100% identical.
If I were to run a jumper from the rectifier board to the lamp driver board, what exactly do you mean? You're talking about disconnecting the power and ground from the board connectors, and running it directly somehow to the rectifier?

Oh nevermind, I see what you're saying...

#484 5 years ago

JSA

jsa

Pinside+ Addict

Quoted from pinballinreno:
Since you changed out the rectifier board, and the original rectifier board worked, the problem is with the rectifier board.
I guess you could put the old one back in, it's a a lot of work but would give you a base line test.

No, this didn't happen... I didn't change out the rectifier board yet. What I mean is, we haven't done a swap...But yes, the original one worked before the restoration.

#485 5 years ago

TOM

pinballinreno

OP
Quoted from jsa:
No, this didn't happen... I didn't change out the rectifier board yet. What I mean is, we haven't done a swap...But yes, the original one worked before the restoration.

Sadly there is only one way to find out if it still works.

#486 5 years ago

JSA

jsa

Pinside+ Addict

Quoted from pinballinreno:
Sadly there is only one way to find out if it still works.

Ok, first I'm going to try bypassing the ground path and doing a jumper from the LDB to the rectifier ground, just for giggles. If that doesn't work, the next step is a rectifier swap, and I may wait to do this until I have a confirmed working transformer/rectifier pair I can temporarily borrow just to see if it changes things.

#487 5 years ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from jsa:
If I were to run a jumper from the rectifier board to the lamp driver board, what exactly do you mean? You're talking about disconnecting the power and ground from the board connectors, and running it directly somehow to the rectifier?

The lamp diver board doesn't get ground from the cabinet/head braid. It gets it from the rectifier board.
Actually there are already three ground wires running from the rectifier board to the lamp driver board:
Rectifier J3-4 to LDB J1-1
Rectifier J3-3 to LDB J1-2
Rectifier J3-14 to LDB J1-11

#488 5 years ago

JSA

jsa

Pinside+ Addict

Quoted from Quench:
The lamp diver board doesn't get ground from the cabinet/head braid. It gets it from the rectifier board.
Actually there are already three ground wires running from the rectifier board to the lamp driver board:
Rectifier J3-4 to LDB J1-1
Rectifier J3-3 to LDB J1-2
Rectifier J3-14 to LDB J1-11

I seems to me that what I would do is test the voltages of those three ground wires. Then I should disconnect them from the LDB J1 connector housing. Then run three jumpers to those points and connect them to the rectifier board ground. Then run the socket test. Does that sound right?

#489 5 years ago

TOM

pinballinreno

OP
Quoted from jsa:
Ok, first I'm going to try bypassing the ground path and doing a jumper from the LDB to the rectifier ground, just for giggles. If that doesn't work, the next step is a rectifier swap, and I may wait to do this until I have a confirmed working transformer/rectifier pair I can temporarily borrow just to see if it changes things.

My money is on the new rectifier board having subtle differences from the old one.

#490 5 years ago

JSA

jsa

Pinside+ Addict

Quoted from pinballinreno:
My money is on the new rectifier board having subtle differences from the old one.

Well already there are some differences for sure. The original is a AS-2518-49. The repro is closer to a AS-2518-18, but they are supposed to be compatible. The one main difference is the feature lamp fuse on the -18 is a 10amp fuse, and on the -49 is a 20amp fuse. So I'm running the feature lamp bus on 10amps, but I can't see the difference that would make other than blowing the fuse if I push it too far. If you look at connection point E9, you can see that the original board had a place for two wires to terminate. For the repro, I twist those wires together and go into a single connection point.

Just for reference, here is a photo of my original board:

IMG_3277.JPG

IMG_3278.JPG

Here is the new board:

IMG_3259 2.JPG

IMG_3257 2.JPG

#491 5 years ago

TOM

pinballinreno

OP
Quoted from jsa:
Well already there are some differences for sure. The original is a AS-2518-49. The repro is closer to a AS-2518-18, but they are supposed to be compatible. The one main difference is the feature lamp fuse on the -18 is a 10amp fuse, and on the -49 is a 20amp fuse. So I'm running the feature lamp bus on 10amps, but I can't see the difference that would make other than blowing the fuse if I push it too far. If you look at connection point E9, you can see that the original board had a place for two wires to terminate. For the repro, I twist those wires together and go into a single connection point.
Just for reference, here is a photo of my original board:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Here is the new board:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

The new board sure is pretty and well organized!

But the old board is certainly good enough to be cleaned up and put into service.

It would take a couple hours to completely rebuild it, but it would work well.

definitely a difference in current flow from 20a to 10a.

Definitely a minor current difference on connection E9, but still a difference.

Maybe send the old board out for rebuilding if you dont feel confident. Its super easy with a proper station and tools.

But I would do nothing until I test it in your existing game as it is. I wouldnt add any more random issues while troubleshooting.

#492 5 years ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from jsa:
I seems to me that what I would do is test the voltages of those three ground wires. Then I should disconnect them from the LDB J1 connector housing. Then run three jumpers to those points and connect them to the rectifier board ground. Then run the socket test. Does that sound right?

What's the likelihood all three of those wires have poor connections after you've re-terminated them all?
Try running a jumper wire from the lower leg of either white ceramic resistor on the rectifier board directly to the ground test point on the lamp driver board and see what happens. Be careful you don't jumper to the wrong spot and blow stuff up.

The curious thing about your SCR waveforms is there is always two missed latches in a row..

#493 5 years ago

TOM

pinballinreno

Quoted from Quench:
What's the likelihood all three of those wires have poor connections after you've re-terminated them all?
Try running a jumper wire from the lower leg of either white ceramic resistor on the rectifier board directly to the ground test point on the lamp driver board and see what happens. Be careful you don't jumper to the wrong spot and blow stuff up.
The curious thing about your SCR waveforms is there is always two missed latches in a row..

There are some current flow differences from the old rectifier board compared to the new one.

Whether the current is actually used or not, it may just be an issue of lower potentials keeping the SCR from latching firmly.

Something like a low wattage supply vs a higher wattage supply. You get more lively snappy performance at the same voltages.

#494 5 years ago

MAT

supermoot

The PinVault

Indianapolis, IN

10y 54,850 443 24

OP
Quoted from jsa:
Well already there are some differences for sure. The original is a AS-2518-49. The repro is closer to a AS-2518-18, but they are supposed to be compatible.

Just wanted to confirm and say, hey, I'm running an old -18 in a future spa with no weirdness.

#495 5 years ago

TOM

pinballinreno

Quoted from supermoot:
Just wanted to confirm and say, hey, I'm running an old -18 in a future spa with no weirdness.

That's good to know.
Did you convert to LED's?

#496 5 years ago

JSA

jsa

Pinside+ Addict

Quoted from Quench:
What's the likelihood all three of those wires have poor connections after you've re-terminated them all?
Try running a jumper wire from the lower leg of either white ceramic resistor on the rectifier board directly to the ground test point on the lamp driver board and see what happens. Be careful you don't jumper to the wrong spot and blow stuff up.
The curious thing about your SCR waveforms is there is always two missed latches in a row..

Do you recommend that I remove the current ground connections first?

Quoted from supermoot:
Just wanted to confirm and say, hey, I'm running an old -18 in a future spa with no weirdness.

That's helpful to know, but you're using an original Bally -18 rectifier or a repro?

#497 5 years ago

AMS

barakandl

nvram.weebly.com

12y 132K 10,414

The rectifier is a GBPC3506W by fairchild or on-semi which is a 35a part (assuming you can keep it cool). Should be plenty sufficient. In the -54 rectifier board Bally went back to normal type bridge instead of split into two "varo" diode things. So that really shouldnt matter how the rectification is done. Just rectifier diodes either way in a different package.

I do notice you have what looks like a 6mm x 30mm time fuse in F1. The clips are designed for 6.2mm x 32mm or 1.25" x 0.25" fuses like a MDL(slow) or AGC(fast) fuse in Bussman world. Hopefully I didnt put that fuse in the rectifier board when i sent it out. Anyways since it is a hair smaller, make sure it is fitting in solid and no resistance. I would probably put an AGC-10 fuse in there.

#498 5 years ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from jsa:
Do you recommend that I remove the current ground connections first?

I wouldn't bother but if you really want to isolate the ground for test you could try it.

Is the transformer still wired for 115VAC or did you change it to 120VAC during the resto?

#499 5 years ago

JSA

jsa

Pinside+ Addict

Quoted from Quench:
I wouldn't bother but if you really want to isolate the ground for test you could try it.
Is the transformer still wired for 115VAC or did you change it to 120VAC during the resto?

I’m pretty sure I changed nothing. I wouldn’t even know how to change that honestly.

#500 5 years ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member