Joining the Future Spa club today. Here is my new addition:

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Playfield was a NOS brought into a HUO situation some years ago. Seems to also have new assemblies. I'm new to classic Bally SS so I'm learning in real-time.

Anyone have any idea what the battery with wires soldered into the test pads is about? Is that a thing? (horrified to hear answer)

I'm more concerned about the dude in the hot tub. Where are his hands?

This took me a few more moments of thought to figure it out. Battery connectors were removed, wires soldered in place, and then the wires soldered to a NiCad battery. It obviously was keeping the scores and settings, and no corrosion on a board, so someone was protecting it. I mistakenly thought the solder points were test pads.

I could scan my plastics...Is there a good way to reproduce? Do you print slide decals and cut your own?

Ok, I'll PM you with a link to the 600 dpi tiff file. Let me know if it's what you need.

Anyone who needs the plastic scans I mention above just PM me.

I'm working on my own restoration now. We just stripped the cabinet of paint and are moving into cabinet repair. I chipped off some unfaded pink/red paint and I'll probably go that route for the red.

I think what makes it work for me is that the theme is so ridiculous. It's an over-the-top 70's disco Logan's Run ridiculous game. It just happens to be really fun to play on top of it.

What color flipper buttons do you all have?

Honestly, the theme brings me back to my childhood, where I remember first playing these games. Arcades and roller rinks with stripes, visions of the future like Logan's Run, carpet on walls (?), a game of Atari pong on a cocktail table in the lobby of a restaurant. We're nostalgic people. This theme is like everything from 1979 all distilled into one game.

My game has white buttons, and they look original. Flyer has red. It's difficult to imagine the red buttons matching the unusual red on the cabinet, more clashy. Thoughts?

Super curious about those inserts. Is there some kind of corrosion/build up over the black lettering for the letters in FUTURE?

My son and I are in mid-restoration of our Future Spa. We purchased these stencils:

http://pinballpimpstencils.com/?page_id=2036

We've been told these are the best out there. We're almost ready to start painting, so we'll let you know.

As for the backglass, there are a number of threads here on making reproduction backglasses, translites or hybrids. Some are more sophisticated than others. YMMV. What's the status of yours?

Hey Future Spa fans. I have a favor to ask. I need you all to turn on your Future Spas for a few minutes and check something out.

Ignoring the fact that I have the background music turned off for this test, when you turn on your Future Spa, during the boot up sequence and sound effects, does it sound like this one:

Or does it sound like this one:

Pay particular attention to the boot up sound, when a game is started and the pop bumper effects.

Thanks for your help!

Almost every video I've found online sounds like the original board. I only found one video, this one, that sounded similar to the alternate board, but even this one wasn't as fast:

I'm super curious to hear other people's comparisons.

Thanks for making the comparisons for me everyone. You're confirming what I already suspected, that the sound board in the second video is playing some effects too quickly.

I'm going to move the sound board into other games of that era and see if it does the same thing in an obvious way and report back to the folks who make the board. Thanks again for all your help! Back to playing Future Spa...

I found I had some similar issues when other switches on the same column or row were stuck. For example, if the spinner is stuck, or the tilt bob has a short, this could cause odd behavior of the stand up targets.

Secondly, if you had some good photography of your switch wiring, we could compare to a working game just to be sure.

The secret life inside your Future Spa.

inside_future_spa.gif

The game is hard. I've been playing with @sfbrian at my house today and watching him use his mad skills on it. It's great because it's challenging.

The extra out lane really forces you to move the table, as does the break in the right in lane, which I completely suck at.

Let me save you some time: You can't match the original deep red Bally apron using a latex style paint, or even an automotive paint. Therefore, my strong recommendation is to choose a red you like, like burgundy red, and use that.

If I were to ever do it again, I would probably scan my old one, photoshop some decals, and print water-slide decals to go over latex or automotive paint, then clear the whole thing like HEP does it.

If you want to see how I ended up matching it (and broke some painting best practice doing so), here is where I started on my restoration:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/future-spa-father-and-sons-second-restoration/page/3#post-4466832

You’re welcome and thanks! I was just playing it today.

In my setup, which was a factory crate, it had this unwired switch inserted on the metal bracket, which served as additional spring tension to push on it from the other side. Here's what mine looked like when I finally got it adjusted properly.

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Great work. This game is worthy of this kind of love.

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I wonder if you wouldn't have a better experience crafting them. I believe I made some high quality scans of the plastics I got in a NOS playfield assembly somewhere if you ever need them, I can look.

I suppose that's got to be a thing people do...?

DM'ing you.

I chose to do this before the stencils.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/future-spa-father-and-sons-second-restoration/page/2#post-4428719

This being said, I also was perfectly good with stencil edges.

It's been a while, but I'm pretty sure I used a metal bristle brush, and I would "flick" my thumb across the bristles and splatter it that way. It's my understanding that in the factory, they used a HVLP gun set to really low pressure to splatter. I'm not sure if that's true, maybe someone can confirm.

I think that should work fine. The clear coat is best for sanding between coats to smooth it all out, but that's a major process and takes way too long. Consider in the factory how little time they spent on that part...

Those automotive paints, on the other hand, do dry in five minutes. Unfortunately also inside your lungs.

That the spirit! The game deserves to be played.

https://sv.scorbit.io/viewer/leaderboards/251

This is looking fantastic, @lostcause!

I pull the stencils within a few minutes of application, but I was using automotive paints. I worried that if I left the stencils on I might not get them off.
I used a tweezers and just took my time.

I remember the tiny "floating" elements of the stencil to be the most difficult to make work. There was always something that got messed up, but you can fix it later.

This is super impressive work, @bjm-maxx. Can you explain a bit more about how you implement this on the electronics/physical side?

That's all fantastic. As we release our integrated Scorbit features in retrofit boards, we should also create a hook to pull these modes to display in real-time on the ScorbitVision and app displays. We're already doing this with existing ROMs in the lab, so it's a natural extension.

Well, that and I want to try this in my Future Spa.

I love that you have a FS, BoP, and Robo War together, which is the lineup at the Scorbit Lab.