(Topic ID: 85150)

Future Spa Club - Come on in the water is warm!

By Xenon75

7 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 336 posts
  • 90 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 days ago by steve-o
  • Topic is favorited by 35 Pinsiders

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#141 3 years ago

Can I become a SPA member? I've already paid my $800 membership. I'm new to pinball (well, after a 47 year hiatus). Picked up FUTURE SPA two months ago, followed by two other oldies but goodies. SPA was pretty messed up when I bought it. The backless had some lifted silkscreen but it was hanging on and all there. The play field was good with only some minor wear. The worst issues were all the hacks I found in the backbox and under the play field. Bit by bit I have troubleshot the problems and made repairs. I can safely say now that is is 100% working and correct. Only thing not original now are the lights. It is 90% converted to LED, keeping the warm original look (personally assembled warm white SMD's using old #44 and #47 bulb bases). This is my "go to" game of the 3 games I own. Fun as heck, great sounds, and somewhat challenging.

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#142 3 years ago

So I just realized that my gate is apparently backwards like some of the other replys here. My left outlanes are set up as: Kick - Out/In - In - In. I'll figure out how to change the gate operation because I'd like it to be right. But what I also find different compared to the videos I have seen is that my upper rollovers "T" and "U" with the yellow arrows that open the gate, well my arrows alternate left and right as different points are scored. The videos all seem to show the two arrows on and off simultaneously. Something wrong with my game? Wired wrong, or a switch setting? EDIT-SOLVED: See below. Was a switch setting.

#144 3 years ago
Quoted from Electronmagic:

My T and U alternate like yours.

Found the reason...switch 16 on the MPU selects whether the T and U alternate or come on simultaneously....setting Conservative or Liberal. I just completed reorienting the gate to the OEM orientation, and have changed switch 16 to liberal setting. Also, if anyone's gate buzzes like in the PAPApinball linked video...it just needs a mechanical adjustment. If the gate is mechanically stopped before the solenoid pulls in the switch plate all the way to its stop, the solenoid will buzz.

1 week later
#147 3 years ago
Quoted from Thorzhammer88:

I hear this is where the cool kids hang out.
Recently purchased a Future Spa, and have been spending a lot of my free time troubleshooting/restoring. Not quite up-and-running, but getting pretty close.
I'm actually getting to the point where I need to gather supplies for the cabinet restoration, and am in search of some leads on stencils to re-spray. If anyone has some instructional help on replacing the backglass with a hi-res vinyl print on a new pane of glass, I'd welcome that too.
Thanks in advance!

Welcome to the Future. I spent many hours troubleshooting and repairing mine until it would play start and play correctly. Glad to help with specifics if I can.

#150 3 years ago
Quoted from mantz88:

Hey guys I was troubleshooting my MPU board and decided to pop out U1 to check it out and it broke about 6 pins on the chip. Is there a place to get new 9316-A rom?

Unfortunately you can't buy programmed 9316 ROM. You'll have to replace your 9316's with programmed 2732 ROM and change the jumpers on your MPU.

3 weeks later
#152 3 years ago
Quoted from Pecos:

Future Spaians,
I was lucky enough to find a really nice Future Spa but it had lots of small issues. I have been fixing these issues, one by one, and I am really beginning to enjoy the game play.
I am missing whatever magic holographic piece goes on the back of the backglass and in front of the 'Future Spa' lamps in the backbox. I am considering ordering this as a substitute:
8"X25" Diffraction Grating Roll Sheet Double Axis 13,500 l/mm Physics Light
ebay.com link » 8 X25 Diffraction Grating Roll Sheet Double Axis 13 500 L Mm Physics Light
Has anyone tried this particular item? Will the diffraction grating give the same or similar effect of the original backglass?

I just picked up another Future Spa. It's missing the holographic film on the backglass. Did you ever buy this replacement product, and if so, how does it look?

#153 3 years ago

Double the pleasure! Got a his and hers now!

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2 weeks later
#159 3 years ago
Quoted from Pecos:

I got my diffraction grating today. The pictures do not do it justice. I was going to use double sided tape, but changed my mind and went with clear shipping tape cut into thin strips. I only taped down the sides. That seemed to suffice.

The diffraction grating adds depth and splits the white light into a star pattern and all of the colors of the rainbow like a prism. It was certainly worth the eight dollars I paid for it. Here is the eBay link again if anybody wants to order one for their Future Spa.
ebay.com link

Thank you for the info. Looks good as new!

#161 3 years ago
Quoted from Joey_N:

I certainly appreciate you posting your experience, review, and link on this, but how close to the original effect do you think it is? Bang on?
I'll be ordering a piece. I could have SWORN that it was on my backglass when I got it, but I have the backglass stored safely (against a wall) and it's missing.

The effect is exactly like the original.

#163 3 years ago
Quoted from Pecos:

I haven't the slightest idea. I've never seen an original piece on a Future Spa. This new one is all sparkly and glittery in front of the 'FUTURE SPA' lamps. Your eyeballs can't help but be drawn to the light show. And isn't that the purpose of a pinball backglass? I like it. I'm keeping it this way.

Thanks Jethro for the information!

#164 3 years ago
Quoted from Pecos:

I haven't the slightest idea. I've never seen an original piece on a Future Spa. This new one is all sparkly and glittery in front of the 'FUTURE SPA' lamps. Your eyeballs can't help but be drawn to the light show. And isn't that the purpose of a pinball backglass? I like it. I'm keeping it this way.

Thanks Jethro for the information!

Quoted from Pecos:

I haven't the slightest idea. I've never seen an original piece on a Future Spa. This new one is all sparkly and glittery in front of the 'FUTURE SPA' lamps. Your eyeballs can't help but be drawn to the light show. And isn't that the purpose of a pinball backglass? I like it. I'm keeping it this way.

Thanks Jethro for the information!

I was going to upload a video of the effect but can't. Instead, here's a screen shot of my game with the original holographic film. The effect is better in person. The picture blurs out the sharpness of the color prisms.

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4 months later
#171 3 years ago

Mine sounds like the first video. I think if you remove the background sound from the third video it sounds like the first video.

1 month later
#179 2 years ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

New question for Future Spa players. Reasonably frequently the rollover switch will not register the ball when shooting that upper right turn-around shot. I have replaced all switch caps in the entire machine and I know the switch is adjusted properly. I suspect the ball is riding part way up the wall as it does the U-turn and physically misses the switch. I get this happening 1-2 times in a good game. I checked and the wall is not leaning outward at all. Anyone else have a similar experience, I am wondering if this is normal for this game. My game is freshly shopped, new rubber, flippers and all mechanisms are rebuilt so ball speed is pretty high.

I have had 2 different Future Spas and they both did what you are describing. At one time I thought about relocating the stainless arc/guide so the ball would roll over the switch all the time, but decided it wasn't worth it. So yeah, yours appears to be "normal."

10 months later
#192 2 years ago

They reset at the end of each ball.

#197 2 years ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

I never thought about it, I guess you could set it up wrong. I think that is what happens 3:11 ( ), the ball seems to hit the gate in the second lane over and magically heads towards the flipper. It seems ridiculous to have it that way.

Yeah, the gate in the video is set up wrong.

2 weeks later
#210 2 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Almost all of the Future Spa aprons do that.

I've had 2 Future Spas in the last 2 years and neither one had issues with the apron paint.

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#212 2 years ago
Quoted from pinster68:

I'm thinking that's a California thing. Just like how cars don't rust there...

I just moved here from Ohio. Brought one of my Future Spas with me. Sold the other a while back. But bought them both in Ohio.
I'll tell you what....you're right about the rust. I've never seen so many vintage cars on the road as here in San Jose. 60's Mustangs, Chevy El Caminos, Etc...

I'm convinced (but I'd never do it), that I could put a pin on my back patio and it would survive just fine. Just need an umbrella to keep the sun off of it.

7 months later
#243 1 year ago
Quoted from EasternBloc:

Any sage wisdom or advice on cleaning/replacing this molex connector?

I had the exact same issue just a month ago. I tried cleaning up the connector, and even replacing the female pins on the wiring to the power supply (there is more than the one pin going to the GI). Sage advice as requested: Remove power supply, take to the bench, and replace ALL the header pins (J1, J2, and J3). Next, replace ALL the wire pins with trifurcon, and use new connector housings. The parts will cost a little less than $20. I recommend either The Pinball Resource or Great Plains Electronics for parts.

#247 1 year ago
Quoted from EasternBloc:

This would be my first time to desolder or solder anything to/from a board, so I go in with great trepidation. Would replacing the complete rectifier board be a better option that cleaning and replacing pins?

Unfortunately, even if you buy a new board, you will need to solder to it. All the wiring from the transformer outputs solder directly to the back side of the board. You will be soldering to a brand new board. Rather than risk ruining a new board, why not try (practicing) repair to the old board. If you fail, what have you got to lose? The cost of the header pins is only about $6.

#249 1 year ago

You also have a molex crimping tool?

2 weeks later
#255 1 year ago
Quoted from Blakeski:

Any info or an idea where to start would be appreciated

Try cleaning (and maybe adjust) the outhole switch.

#258 1 year ago

Did you also check the fuse under the playfield for loose or defective?

3 months later
#273 1 year ago
Quoted from hodgesm0:

Not a specific tone, it happens with the background sound and switched sounds. It’s like it just gets stuck wherever it’s at and won’t stop until I reboot.

Not sure if this could be the solution, but if you have original electrolytic caps on the sound card I would replace them. They have exceeded their life expectancy.

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