Can I become a SPA member? I've already paid my $800 membership. I'm new to pinball (well, after a 47 year hiatus). Picked up FUTURE SPA two months ago, followed by two other oldies but goodies. SPA was pretty messed up when I bought it. The backless had some lifted silkscreen but it was hanging on and all there. The play field was good with only some minor wear. The worst issues were all the hacks I found in the backbox and under the play field. Bit by bit I have troubleshot the problems and made repairs. I can safely say now that is is 100% working and correct. Only thing not original now are the lights. It is 90% converted to LED, keeping the warm original look (personally assembled warm white SMD's using old #44 and #47 bulb bases). This is my "go to" game of the 3 games I own. Fun as heck, great sounds, and somewhat challenging.

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So I just realized that my gate is apparently backwards like some of the other replys here. My left outlanes are set up as: Kick - Out/In - In - In. I'll figure out how to change the gate operation because I'd like it to be right. But what I also find different compared to the videos I have seen is that my upper rollovers "T" and "U" with the yellow arrows that open the gate, well my arrows alternate left and right as different points are scored. The videos all seem to show the two arrows on and off simultaneously. Something wrong with my game? Wired wrong, or a switch setting? EDIT-SOLVED: See below. Was a switch setting.

Found the reason...switch 16 on the MPU selects whether the T and U alternate or come on simultaneously....setting Conservative or Liberal. I just completed reorienting the gate to the OEM orientation, and have changed switch 16 to liberal setting. Also, if anyone's gate buzzes like in the PAPApinball linked video...it just needs a mechanical adjustment. If the gate is mechanically stopped before the solenoid pulls in the switch plate all the way to its stop, the solenoid will buzz.

Welcome to the Future. I spent many hours troubleshooting and repairing mine until it would play start and play correctly. Glad to help with specifics if I can.

Unfortunately you can't buy programmed 9316 ROM. You'll have to replace your 9316's with programmed 2732 ROM and change the jumpers on your MPU.

I just picked up another Future Spa. It's missing the holographic film on the backglass. Did you ever buy this replacement product, and if so, how does it look?

Double the pleasure! Got a his and hers now!

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Thank you for the info. Looks good as new!

The effect is exactly like the original.

I was going to upload a video of the effect but can't. Instead, here's a screen shot of my game with the original holographic film. The effect is better in person. The picture blurs out the sharpness of the color prisms.

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Mine sounds like the first video. I think if you remove the background sound from the third video it sounds like the first video.

I have had 2 different Future Spas and they both did what you are describing. At one time I thought about relocating the stainless arc/guide so the ball would roll over the switch all the time, but decided it wasn't worth it. So yeah, yours appears to be "normal."

They reset at the end of each ball.

Yeah, the gate in the video is set up wrong.

I've had 2 Future Spas in the last 2 years and neither one had issues with the apron paint.

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I just moved here from Ohio. Brought one of my Future Spas with me. Sold the other a while back. But bought them both in Ohio.
I'll tell you what....you're right about the rust. I've never seen so many vintage cars on the road as here in San Jose. 60's Mustangs, Chevy El Caminos, Etc...

I'm convinced (but I'd never do it), that I could put a pin on my back patio and it would survive just fine. Just need an umbrella to keep the sun off of it.

I had the exact same issue just a month ago. I tried cleaning up the connector, and even replacing the female pins on the wiring to the power supply (there is more than the one pin going to the GI). Sage advice as requested: Remove power supply, take to the bench, and replace ALL the header pins (J1, J2, and J3). Next, replace ALL the wire pins with trifurcon, and use new connector housings. The parts will cost a little less than $20. I recommend either The Pinball Resource or Great Plains Electronics for parts.

Unfortunately, even if you buy a new board, you will need to solder to it. All the wiring from the transformer outputs solder directly to the back side of the board. You will be soldering to a brand new board. Rather than risk ruining a new board, why not try (practicing) repair to the old board. If you fail, what have you got to lose? The cost of the header pins is only about $6.

You also have a molex crimping tool?

Try cleaning (and maybe adjust) the outhole switch.

Did you also check the fuse under the playfield for loose or defective?

Not sure if this could be the solution, but if you have original electrolytic caps on the sound card I would replace them. They have exceeded their life expectancy.

That's exactly how I do restores. I base coat the whole cabinet then apply the spatter or webbing, then clear coat with water base semigloss polyurethane. It dries quickly. Then I apply the top color coats.

The webbing is more fragile and susceptible to coming off if not clear coated compared to spatter, but I would clear either one.

Are you getting voltage at TP1 on both the rectifier and lamp boards? The Future spa lights in the backbox has a separate board for auxiliary lightingl. Must have voltage there too. Here is the aux. light board:

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