(Topic ID: 85150)

Future Spa Club - Come on in the water is warm!

By Xenon75

5 years ago

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  • 190 posts
  • 60 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 38 days ago by Outsidedge
  • Topic is favorited by 20 Pinsiders


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#122 1 year ago

Hi gents,

I am working on a project Future Spa and have a question with regards to the driver board J3 connector (right most one on the top). According to the manual there should be no wire in the top most pin (pin 1) yet there is one on this game. Now the wire was soldered (badly) to the pin in the connector, but it looks original to the harness. The wire is white with a brown(?) band

The game came with 2 driver boards - no idea which one is original to the game (or if either), but one has a jumper wire going from this pin 1 to the -ve lead of C23 (which goes to ground via the regulator board according to the schematic).

Problem I am having is that with all connectors disconnected from the driver board (except J3) and all other boards (except the regulator board), something is loading down the 5volt regulator on the driver board (measuring only 3.8vdc and 1.5 vac) - so there is something in the connector or something else in the game shorting out. The regulator on the driver board works fine when bench tested (feeding 12vdc in - no other connections). But right now I am focusing on the connector (need to replace it as it is brittle and broken) - just wondering about this "extra" wire if it should be there, maybe some kind of factory mod?


#124 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

According to the wiring diagram there should be a white-brown wire at pin 10 of J3. On the solenoid driver board J3 pin 10 goes to the "-" (negative) lead of capacitor C23. Is there any wire sitting in location pin 10 of the J3 connector housing?
Sounds like someone's bodged the connection up onto pin 1 instead of pin 10 for whatever reason. If the negative lead of C23 is floating, the 5 volt regulator will not be able to provide a stable +5V supply.
You should do the ground mods on the solenoid driver board - one of them is to connect the "-" (negative) lead of capacitor C23 to the main ground trace on the SDB for better redundancy.

Thank you for the reply, and you are correct.

After taking a fresh look at it this morning I realized that for whatever reason the wire was moved from pin 10 to 1 and installed the jumper on the board (so I know which is the correct board now that was in the game). The trace on pin 10 is fine so not sure why this was done.

The regulator went out on the original driver board and looks like they just stuck in another driver board without this "mod" which possibly created some other problems (problems with the MPU board as well).

I will also go ahead with the ground mods as well (I was reading up on that yesterday evening).


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