Of course it is missing. See the empty screw holes. The assembly looks similar to those rollover switches in in- and outlanes but not the same. The wire is bent in a different way.

Will look wether I have a photo.

This is what I found among my old pictures.

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Cab has finally cured and like enamel hard, fitted all parts back on the cab. Had to use slightly larger spiral nails on the side trim so widened the holes and went in well and tight.
Have some nos caps and targets coming, I already bought the set from Marco but nos ones look better as finer lines in print.
Starting on playfield next week, needs some cleaning, touch ups, new lamps, flippers rebuilding and any sleeves etc. Will be putting a playfield protector on as has cupped inserts.
Nearly there!

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Curious, what's the history of your game? Noticed the "NP" on the coin slots. Nepalese Rupees? Congrats on a beautiful paint job.

Thank you.
UK model, NP means new pence. They changed only in the early 70’s to a different system https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Decimal_Day
I was born in ‘68 so was too young to know.

Your paint job looks amazing! Loving the restore! I can’t wait to get started on mine once I find a playfield or hardtop it.

I did not know that; thank you for the education.

I love that you have a FS, BoP, and Robo War together, which is the lineup at the Scorbit Lab.

Touch up’s done and playfield protector on which fits really nice and totally flat, still has the top protective layer on that needs peeling off so will look much better.
Flippers kits fitted but for some reason the pawls were slightly different and the grub screw size were not the same for left and right from Marco, messed the thread up on the one which had a slightly smaller grub screw trying to get the correct size in so ended up using the old one.

Just need to put the flipper bats on and connect it all up, too much soccer on! Well done USA, good luck next week. Come on England!

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Looks great, I like the cab color

All done and working, the controlled lamps are a bit dim so guessing rectifier board or connections. Will look into that.
Really happy with the end result, I only saw it powered on when I bought it so relieved everything works and have already played quite a few games. No pushover!
England just need to smash Wales tomorrow in the football/soccer and I will be even happier, I live in Wales lol

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I really dont understand why the printed the inline drop targets blue. I changed them to red stars, which is, yes, unhistoric, but it looks much better.

I like the blue, goes well with the blue 1000 point pop cap.
Another UK guy recently restored one and put red targets in and has the red 1000 point pop cap.
Different stars though, all looks good.

I have a spare new set of targets (blue) and all pop caps (red 1000 point) that I bought from Marco if anyone needs a set. I managed to get a NOS set.

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Just had a good game and clocked it but that’s with 5 balls.

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Hello! What pitch do you guys run your FS at? I can't seem to get this game dialed in right. It seems floaty but my legs are just about maxed in the back.
Plus I really suck at adjusting classic Ballys to play well.

Similar to you, I have it at maximum speed, i.e. legs all screwed in in front, all screwed out in the back. Like all my Bally SS.

Same as mine but I also put oak floor protectors (pin cups) under the back legs and some cut squares of carpet tile to raise it about another 20mm or so, plays great.

.

My controlled lamps were always dim, 2.6v at BR1. Fitted a 35 amp version topside and now have glorious bright inserts and backglass effects
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You may have already said but what colours of rustoleum 2x have you used for this cab?

Hi mate, see pic. For the white I used Mode Gloss white and bought some after market wide fan high volume nozzles for better coverage.
Hot Pink is more like red but was very close to the unfaded red that was under the legs.

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I got some off of Amazon, but I believe I am missing most if not all of the original.

I don't have a warm fuzzy feeling about taping anything to the ink on a backglass, how did you apply yours? Think I can tape it to triple thick maybe after it has cured?

-Pat

ALSO!! What are the colors you guys are using to match the siderails, as well as the apron. I just want to touch those up.

I just taped it with clear tape, no issues

I guess you're just not as good at the game, as I am.

Conservative post adjustments
Glass on (no cheating was done, I was actually playing the game)
3 ball
Factory Settings and recommendations for 3 ball (Drop Targets and Kickback always spot letter)
Correct adjustment for the open gate on the left side (normally 2 options to drain, and when the gate opens it lowers it to one, not the ridiculously easy and incorrect option of 1 option to drain and when the gate opens there aren't any)
Smaller transparent mini post on right side.
Somewhat fast speed to the game (I raised the back leg levelers to about 2 1/4in-2 1/2in high out of the 3in, with no levelers on the front.)

This was just a test game to see the most conservative shots from both flippers. Left flipper horseshoe by saucer (I can't hit the spinner and it seems to be a dangerous shot if you miss the spinner otherwise) and right flipper always shooting the targets until you get Extra ball, then go for the spinner. This is somewhat dangerous also with the targets there (it seems to go down the middle, or to the dangerous right side where the bumpers are) but usually you're ok. The game had incorrect rubber rings on it, as well as the incorrect PAPA adjustment for the ball gate. I still think PAPA has no idea from their videos it's incorrect.

I know for sure the spots letter every 3rd time would make it a lot tougher to score on, and this is the recommended setting for 5 ball, but I wonder if 5 ball actually isn't any easier than 3 ball with the factory settings, and if it isn't more difficult because of the spots letter.

I absolutely love the red drop targets. However, apparently they are only available in the UK. So my questions are, how are they made? The reason I ask, was up until I last asked Steve Young, about 10 years ago now, he still stated he had >>>NEVER<<< had to replace any of his drop targets due to breakage for warranty, when used in a normal setup. I believe that Marco and other suppliers just buy the drop targets from Steve and then sell them to the consumer. So, why type of manufacturering was used in the red star?

Also, something strange is happening with PBResource's email orders. I asked for a blue star drop target, then a white with black lettering 2x, 4x, and 6x (that they advertise on their site) and was told those that the only ones they had going forward was the yellow, with the 2x 4x and 6x on them. However, in their EBD kit, they have 2x, 3x, 4x, and 5x, white dt with black lettering. This completely doesn't make sense, unless Steve has made a rule that anyone who mods their games, he will refuse to sell to?

-Pat

I assume you are talking about lenticular sheet (has the grooves cut in up/down and left/right directions). I cut mine oversize, put little velcro tabs at the corners of the opening on the actual lamp insert. So it covers the opening in the insert, is right behind the backglass but doesn't touch it. I just pull it off the velcro to get at the FUTURE SPA lamps.

For Halloween this year I am going as the guy in the lower right of the back-glass.

That’s strange.

My NOS set came from Gary Flower when he was in the USA, he knew I was restoring one and got in touch. Glad he did as much nicer than the set I had already bought from Marco. The red star targets are available in Europe, not seen any in the UK. I also fitted a set of targets to my EBD, think they came from Marco but bought from a friend so not sure.

Good luck finding what you need.

I clocked mine on 5 ball pretty quick and mine is steep, all the way out plus an inch of wood on the back. Also fitted a playfield protector which is great on this and speeds it up.
Set it to 3 ball the other day with recommended settings, had a few games and managed 500k.
Some games finish quick!

If you can clock regular then 7 digit might be worth doing or maybe make it even harder which is what I think I would do.

Thanks! Everytime I see the euro on a website shopping card, I just assume the UK.

But since Steve doesn't manufacture them, I just didn't know about the quality, since I only get drop targets made by Steve.

Oh, I also wasn't aware about the XPin evolution 7. I don't remember if you need an MPU that supports 7 digit scoring with them (it doesn't say anything on their website) however all the extra wiring and stuff you don't need to do. It's all built in the display itself. That may be a much easier way to do it instead of everything you need to do manually without them.

I didn’t realise that so that’s pretty good but I prefer the old plasma displays, my High Speed came with led displays and I have a Pinbot next to it with original plasma which looks nicer to me. Plus it’s very cheap to leave and just replace with spare used displays when needed, I’m getting to be a cheap skate in my older age

Hey guys I'm having some trouble with my future spa again.. the lights in the "future spa" in the back box are not working and nothing under the playfield is working. All gi on top side is working. I've replaced the rectifier board and redid the connectors a few years ago and they still look great.. the mpu had some acid damage at one point but was cleaned up and never been an issue since.. everything else works properly minus the lighting issues (under pf and fs in back box) I've been chasing things and can't seem to come up with anything. Help!

When you say nothing under the playfield is working, do you mean solenoids, insert lights, or both?

Sorry. Just the lighting under the play field. The game works fine other than that. The future spa doesn't work in the back box either. So I don't get an attract mode upon start up. I get the 7 led flashes on the mpu and I've been trying to find a bare wire grounding out to no avail

Are you getting voltage at TP1 on both the rectifier and lamp boards? The Future spa lights in the backbox has a separate board for auxiliary lightingl. Must have voltage there too. Here is the aux. light board:

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I'm getting 5.21 volts DC at the lamp driver tp1
I'm getting .51 volts DC at tp1 on the rectifier

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I'm also get 5.17 volts DC on the auxiliary lamp driver board on test point

Pull out the fuse at F1 on the rectifier board and test it with your multi-meter.

Fuse is good with continuity on dmm

Everthing on top side of playfield is working.. the "future spa" in back box and the lighting underneath/attract mode not working

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You have no feature lamps as a result of no feature lamp voltage from the rectifier board.

Have a look at this thread since you have the same after market rectifier board:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-dracula-feature-lamps

Unbelievable!!! 5 minute job!! I'm going to let it run for a few... but they are working!! Thank you!!

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So did you have the same problem? Bad soldering on the BR1 bridge rectifier?

Yup.. BR1 looked exactly the same as the pics in the link you posted.. tarnished and not good.. I scrapped them down to good solder and reflowed them put it back in and it worked flawless for multiple games. With the roll overs and the future spa in the middle of the play field.. I was only getting half of the future spa in the back box so i reflowed the aux lamp board as well and now it works great to

I am wanting to do leds through out and brighten it up some.

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I did the same thing with mine but I kept incandescent bulbs behind the "Future Spa" logo. Otherwise, the flicker/shimmer effect is lost with LEDs.

That's important! Using LED behind that foil, you will see they don't emit the full spectrum like incandescent bulbs do. They are just combining some isolated wavelength that add up to white.

I will leave them In the future spa logo.. ive heard you don't get the same effect with leds..

I wrote a new rule set for Future Spa. Full details are in this thread for those interested.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/beyond-future-spa-new-rules-for-future-spa#post-8114634

Rules video

You’ve done a lot of interesting things here. Looks really cool.