A restorer has told me best to wait until it’s all finished before the splatter goes on because it can cause issues with the stencil kit with bleed and other things.
Looked at IPDB and can’t really see properly, I couldn’t see any on the purple of mine but there was some on the red especially the front which was faded more.
If I do it at the end I think the gold splatter would look good on the purple anyway.

It’s weird because it looks like the front had spatter on the red but the sides didn’t and I have looked back on this thread and seen the same thing.
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Which ever path you choose.. its a big win and a major improvement over how it was when you acquired it. I’m looking forwards to seeing your finished cab. I have to do a cab repaint on mine, but I’m planning on getting very creative with the paint colors…

Looking forward to seeing that, have fun with it

This is the first cab I have done and now my garage is covered in fine dust, also the Rust-oleum cans said the fumes could give a narcotic effect but dam it I got nothing

Pinball pimp says the factory put the splatter on before the stencilling to hide the imperfections in the wood so guess I better try that.
What he didn’t say was that it was a good idea to do that

I chose to do this before the stencils.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/future-spa-father-and-sons-second-restoration/page/2#post-4428719

This being said, I also was perfectly good with stencil edges.

That looks really good, I made a little tool to do the splatter with from metal bristles.
I bought metallic gold for mine and watered it right down to get it as fiat as possible, the big drops are my first attempt just needed to shake a bit more off for smaller. Just need to test it on some paint to make sure it sticks good.

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Future Spa is probably the coolest retro machine out there. The late 70's sci-fi disco theme is amazing.

It's been a while, but I'm pretty sure I used a metal bristle brush, and I would "flick" my thumb across the bristles and splatter it that way. It's my understanding that in the factory, they used a HVLP gun set to really low pressure to splatter. I'm not sure if that's true, maybe someone can confirm.

Yep that’s how I tried it, just looked at your restore and wow amazing job and a lot of work.
Doing mine out of Rust-oleum cans luckily I found some spray caps that I could put on that give a high output fan pattern as the original caps were terrible.

I am now doubting the splatter will stick to the white once the stencils get pulled without clear coat over them, I don’t really want to do that so will have to do some testing. I have sprayed cars years ago so pretty good with a gun,can, polishing etc but want to keep it simple.

I think that should work fine. The clear coat is best for sanding between coats to smooth it all out, but that's a major process and takes way too long. Consider in the factory how little time they spent on that part...

Those automotive paints, on the other hand, do dry in five minutes. Unfortunately also inside your lungs.

That's exactly how I do restores. I base coat the whole cabinet then apply the spatter or webbing, then clear coat with water base semigloss polyurethane. It dries quickly. Then I apply the top color coats.

The webbing is more fragile and susceptible to coming off if not clear coated compared to spatter, but I would clear either one.

My base coat is like a rock hard white gloss so will try and get the splatter on without having to clear coat, my first one so you live and learn.
I will put some on the back and cut a piece of stencil off stick it on and pull off and see what happens then decide how to go about it.
I know next time to think about using clear coat, thanks.

I just want to play the game as I launched a ball could see it worked ok and bought it, got it home and stripped it. Can’t wait.
More excited about this than my Halloween that’s on its way

That the spirit! The game deserves to be played.

https://sv.scorbit.io/viewer/leaderboards/251

Great but Neil McRae from the UK is on there, now I have to kick his butt

Oh wow, I didn't know my game was on the global high score table (and I'm just above Neil on it!).
You can see it being ignored by Kris Gonzo on here

I thought that was your score Mike, someone else from the club is higher up again I think.

That’s funny saying that about Harlem G and standing in front of Future Spa, looks like a nice one.

What does Kris know (joking Kris)

Decided against the spatter, wasn’t happy with the test. If it pisses me off later I’m sure I can add to the white.
Did my first ever bit of stencil work today, learnt a few things but came out ok. Will get the rest done over the next week.

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Did left cab side yesterday, been advised I need to wait 4 or 5 days before I put the purple on or I might pull some hot pink off.
Waited 30 mins before pulling the stencils off this time and came away much better. The orange peel finish doesn’t look as noticeable unless you look at it at certain angles with light hitting hit, smooth would have been better but the Rust-oleum Mode gloss paint seems to be like this with a nice tuff enamel like finish.
Starting to look good but a slow process.
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Using conventional spray paints really slows the process down. I have done two cabinets, and from bare cabinet and back box to completed took 5 weeks given all the coats and all the waiting.

Waited 5 days between stencil coats and pulled off without issues, cabside tomorrow then a process of spraying and waiting again for the rest.
Very happy with my first attempt, Will I do another again? I’m not sure

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Looking sharp; good job!

Side of cab done but have quite a bit of residue left on the cab from the stencil, have asked PP what to use to remove. Maybe I put the stencil down too hard, not sure but it’s been happening to them all. Somebody just told me he doesn’t use the scraper but does it by hand so will try that next or in combination with the scraper but gently. Also the x’s didn’t line up so that was fun getting it in the right position, spot on though luckily after multiple adjustments and checking.
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This is looking awesome. Really getting me pumped to do mine.
How long are you waiting before pulling stencil after painting and then how long between that and next stencil application/painting? I know you said 5 days, but is that painting and then waiting 5 days to pull stencil and then immediately put next stencil on?

I pull the stencil within minutes of applying paint. I keep some Naptha handy and Q tips to touch anything that is where it shouldn't be to clean it up. Can also smooth down any edges that stand up where the stencil edge was. Curious what others do.

This is looking fantastic, @lostcause!

I pull the stencils within a few minutes of application, but I was using automotive paints. I worried that if I left the stencils on I might not get them off.
I used a tweezers and just took my time.

I remember the tiny "floating" elements of the stencil to be the most difficult to make work. There was always something that got messed up, but you can fix it later.

I waited about 14 days after putting the gloss white on before the first stencil, so rock hard and cured. The first stencil I left on for 10 mins after painting so was on there 20 mins tops and that left some residue on the white. The one I did yesterday left the most residue and that was left to dry for 40 mins so on for 50 mins ish. I didn’t like the way the paint was pulling up when only dried for 10 mins, the stencil came away from the paint much nicer with a 40 min wait.

I have been waiting 5 days for the hot pink to cure before the purple goes on, all paint Rust-oleum oil based.

I have been told things that can cause the residue being left behind which is Matt paint, temps above 84f and stencil left on more than 20 mins.

I will try doing it quicker next to see if that helps, have ordered some Goo Gone pro as recommended by a restorer here who is advising me and seen the residue issue himself.

I just wish there was some kind of advice on the instructions warning about the possible residue issue and not to leave the stencils on above a certain time as I know of 2 other people who it has happened to now, one said it has only happened on the last 2 he has done. Maybe the warm weather caused it for him.

Such a long process but will be worth it.

I run into trouble, the Rustoleum is not going hard in a hurry. The cab was drying for over 4 weeks and felt hard, laid it down on some bubblewrap to spray the other side and when I turned it over it had imprints of bubblewrap a honeycomb pattern so not cured properly. Had to sand it down and spray the white on again but looks good again. I now have to work out a way of laying it on the done side without it touch anything or it will get marked then let it all cure, I have a plan.

Looking good though but much hassle, head finished and cab side that is done looking good.
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4 weeks is plenty long, I have done something similar and was also worried about leaving a mark. I rolled the cabinet on its side after 7 days and it was okay. Not sure what happened in your case. Is it super humid where you are maybe?

No not this time of the year, about 55/65% and early 70’s f. I put quite a bit of paint down but waited between coats so maybe that but have read other people having issues with it not going completely hard. It will be going into a climate controlled room once the paint is done to cure properly hopefully.
Have put a fan blower on it to move some air from the surface for now.

Going to have it not touching the floor or anything next week when I do the other side, think I have worked a way out for doing that.

I have got away with it I think as it’s looking good and it’s my first attempt so can’t complain but we all want perfection for our efforts

Super humid here in south Texas. I just finished spraying out a BOPP. I would spray it in the garage and peel the stencils usually within an hour or so. After leaving it set overnight I would bring it in the house so it would cure quicker in the A/C. After a week in the house I was able to do the next spray with no problems.

Shawn

Tomorrow around 11:00AM EST I will be picking up my Future Spa and joining the "Club".
It will sit along side my Space Invaders which is fully restored- complete with a new cabinet and excellent paint job (full disclosure here, I bought it restored).

Look forward to doing the restoration to my FS on my own.

I know there are a lot of game play videos out there. I think you will find this one is different.

That’s cool but I couldn’t work out what was going on, just woke up and had a quick look. Countdown timer and other things going on.
Just watched again and it’s a spinner countdown with a bonus when zero, other stuff too.

From youtube channel.. units digit signifies completed modes.
Left kickback has an auxiliary countdown/timed bonus feature that is awarded by going to the
right saucer kickout. The rest is like you said @lostcause.
If there was an alpha-numeric display addressing what was going on, it would be more clearer
to understand. CPU has aux board mounted to it so as to have expanded program.
I think it is neat, that with new technologies, pinheads can creatively expand older games
into new rules and features.

Thanks for that, guessing the lighting effects have changed as well. Not even played mine yet as stripped it as soon as it got into my garage.

Got mine yesterday!

Got it put together, checked out everything. Hooked it all up, and plugged it in.

Played about 12 games on it.... it needs some help for sure.

Playfield is in pretty decent shape. Plastics are warped and some are cracked.

Where would be a good place to find parts for this game?

And people say that wide bodies are slow and it seems “floaty”. Watch this video and what I see is a game that is almost perfectly dialed in. ( flipper hop drives me crazy). That game is FAST and will kick your butt more often than not.

I uploaded an annotated version of the video to make things more clear. I will add some explanations here as well.

This is a very early working version of what I am calling Beyond Future Spa. My working method is to replicate the original game in the Arduino code, then branch off from there. I like to keep the original game feel because that is why I always liked the game.

Features:
All original rules are there. Collect the FUTURESPA lamps to build your bonus.
There are 3 goals built in so far. Collect a goal and it increments the singles digit in your score.
Goal 1 - collect the 36K bonus
Goal 2 - Pop bumper mode - You must hit the bumpers a total number of times, flashing countdown is shown in the credit display. Total to reach is settable in the coin door.
Goal 3 - Spinner mode - You reach a total cumulative spinner flip total, flashing countdown is shown in the ball-in-play display. Total settable in coin door.

Spinner mode is designed to force you to use both spinners. I have factored in how much harder it is to hit the right spinner. Whatever total you have set is divided into chunks. Everyone goes for the left spinner. After ~40% of the total is accumulated, the left spinner will go 'dead', the lamp goes dark, the spinner sound reverts to a simple tone and it must be re-lit by hitting the right spinner which is now blinking.
Hitting the right spinner for about 5% of the total relights the left spinner. The right spinner will go 'dead' after ~20% of the total.
No matter what you will have to relight a spinner twice to reach the total. The game tracks each spinner separately, you either reset its internal counter by relighting it with the other spinner or by losing your ball. The total spinner countdown is kept between balls though.
Lit spinner scoring increases each time to reach the spinner total, 1000 becomes 2000, etc. You hear a sound effect each time you reach a goal.

Spinner speed, if you hit a lit spinner faster than 10 flips per second (a little slower for the right one), you will hear a special sound and you will get 2000 pts per spin only while the speed is high enough. Otherwise it reverts to the usual sound effect.

Combo shots - only the one so far (more to come)
Kicker-Saucer combo, at any time land in the left kicker, starts a timed countdown. Time in seconds is shown in two displays, the countdown pot is adjacent to the player's score window. Land in the saucer to collect the amount shown.

Displays - Lacking an alphanumeric displays like newer machines I tried to make more use of the displays we do have. The singles digit of the player score shows your total goals achieved. The game will eventually use number of goals achieved as a trigger for other game modes (yet to come). When a new ball is fed to the plunger, if you have achieved any goals, they will be displayed in the other play displays (the video at 4:58) you see '111'. Each digit corresponds to a specific goal. I will eventually make up new apron score cards that have a little diagram showing which is which.

Annotated video

BJM-Maxx Wow, that is awesome! I have a FS that I will be working on soon. Do you plan on releasing this with the other BSOS new codes? Would love to pu this on my FS when I get it finished.

For sure I will release it, I want to get some more stuff in the game first though.

I picked up a FS just this summer and am very excited to try the enhanced ruleset. I really like what I see in the annotated video for sure. It keeps the original feel but adds a bit more variety on top. Good work!

Just finished the other side of the cab, will start on the coin door area this week. Taking so long waiting for paint to cure, is what it is but looking good.

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This is amazing! Great job. You have inspired me to redo mine.

Anyone happen to have a new playfield available for this game?

This is super impressive work, @bjm-maxx. Can you explain a bit more about how you implement this on the electronics/physical side?

It is really easy. Dick Hamill wrote an operating system that runs on an Arduino board. An adapter PCB lets it sit right on the J5 Diagnostic port on your existing MPU card. There is a really long thread here for the technical details. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-the-m6800-in-a-stern-mpu100-with-an-arduino

To get the hardware pre-loaded with a game you can just go here, https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1304-roygbev-pinball and order the correct game. Beyond Future Spa is still being developed so I have not released code yet.

I have done a new version of Eight Ball called Eight Ball Plus, you can go to that thread to see the updates I made there. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eight-ball-plus-new-rules-for-bally-eight-ball

Currently I am working on a Future Spa equivalent to the Eight Ball Plus' 15 ball mode.

That's all fantastic. As we release our integrated Scorbit features in retrofit boards, we should also create a hook to pull these modes to display in real-time on the ScorbitVision and app displays. We're already doing this with existing ROMs in the lab, so it's a natural extension.

Well, that and I want to try this in my Future Spa.

Nearly there at last, took a little while to line it all up but looking good. Purple next week then I can stop annoying you with my little updates and get looking at the playfield

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Could someone please take a picture of the drain switch underneath.
This one seems to missing the wire forms?

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At last, good things come to those who wait! An improvement and the gloss finish looks really nice.
Onto the playfield next, can’t wait to have my first game.

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Onto the playfield soon……. at last.

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