Back in the club with the purchase of a decent play field at TPF last week. Unfortunately its missing 7 of the plastics. Does anyone have a decent scan or pictures of the plastics or any old ones (even broken) for sale? The epay prices are a little ridiculous right now and I am one cheap bastard. Thanks for any help!

Shawn

I could scan my plastics...Is there a good way to reproduce? Do you print slide decals and cut your own?

Pretty much. Well, that's how I did it before. This time I am going to try and have them printed on petg by a local shop and cut them out from there. If you could I would really appreciate it. I only need the smaller bunch. I have the two large upper corner ones and the one that goes down the left side.

Shawn

Ok, I'll PM you with a link to the 600 dpi tiff file. Let me know if it's what you need.

I have begged for these plastics to be reproduced. If someone will get me quality scans of the plastics, I'd be really interested in taking a look at them and seeing if it's something I could vectorize. I don't have much experience with color separations, so I'd need to talk to Stu or someone more experienced to see what they need on their end to do the job, but lack of art files from a quality source (ie: not a lot of existing damage and hopefully not overly yellowed) is a nut-punch.

If there's not a lot of halftoning in the art, it's probably within my skillset at this point after warming up on my own Voltron stuff, and I'd be much more motivated to work on this project than Voltron, haha.

Frax didn't you just sell yours?

At least the did a hardtop for it. Anther expensive option but it beats nothing.

Yeah. And?

I still have every intention to own a restored game at some point, but that....thing....that I sold was not a good restoration candidate at all. At the very minimum I'd have needed to find a much better backglass, which for this game is like FREAKING IMPOSSIBLE. =\

I bought it cheap, I sold it cheaper, it got played all weekend at TPF. Everyone won in that equation IMO.

Oh, and I'm still sitting on a stripped playfield that I can put a hardtop on too.

jsa thanks a ton. I'll take a look as soon as I get home.

True. I play it a bunch and it kicked my okole.

I didn't play it at the show. I had a few games on it before it started acting up, and it seemed to play well but.. man. I'm just shocked bangerjay's friend was able to get it up and running so quickly, but hey..props to them guys. It sat in my living room for 4 or 5 months neglected because I couldn't be arsed to figure out why it was constantly rebooting..

Diagnosis is not my strong suit.

Anyone who needs the plastic scans I mention above just PM me.

I'm working on my own restoration now. We just stripped the cabinet of paint and are moving into cabinet repair. I chipped off some unfaded pink/red paint and I'll probably go that route for the red.

I don't remember ever seeing/playing this title back in the day. Looks like a good game. The art on this one is great, but the theme is terrible. Would like to play one someday.

I think what makes it work for me is that the theme is so ridiculous. It's an over-the-top 70's disco Logan's Run ridiculous game. It just happens to be really fun to play on top of it.

Welp ... I’m now a Future Spa owner ... but since I’m moving in the next week I had to put it right into storage with the rest of my game room stuff...

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I posted this in the hardtop thread, but I thought I should repost here. It came out really well!

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What color flipper buttons do you all have?

Red. Has anyone dealt with flipper-hop on this game? Mine seems kinda bad. I need to take a slow mo video and see what's up. My flippers are adjusted a little too high, maybe that has something to do with it.

Logan's Run was the biggest thing back then, literally saving MGM from bankruptcy.

Honestly, the theme brings me back to my childhood, where I remember first playing these games. Arcades and roller rinks with stripes, visions of the future like Logan's Run, carpet on walls (?), a game of Atari pong on a cocktail table in the lobby of a restaurant. We're nostalgic people. This theme is like everything from 1979 all distilled into one game.

My game has white buttons, and they look original. Flyer has red. It's difficult to imagine the red buttons matching the unusual red on the cabinet, more clashy. Thoughts?

They usually came with white buttons, but believe me, they would use anything they had at the factory to keep the line moving.

Hi gents,

I am working on a project Future Spa and have a question with regards to the driver board J3 connector (right most one on the top). According to the manual there should be no wire in the top most pin (pin 1) yet there is one on this game. Now the wire was soldered (badly) to the pin in the connector, but it looks original to the harness. The wire is white with a brown(?) band

The game came with 2 driver boards - no idea which one is original to the game (or if either), but one has a jumper wire going from this pin 1 to the -ve lead of C23 (which goes to ground via the regulator board according to the schematic).

Problem I am having is that with all connectors disconnected from the driver board (except J3) and all other boards (except the regulator board), something is loading down the 5volt regulator on the driver board (measuring only 3.8vdc and 1.5 vac) - so there is something in the connector or something else in the game shorting out. The regulator on the driver board works fine when bench tested (feeding 12vdc in - no other connections). But right now I am focusing on the connector (need to replace it as it is brittle and broken) - just wondering about this "extra" wire if it should be there, maybe some kind of factory mod?

thanks

According to the wiring diagram there should be a white-brown wire at pin 10 of J3. On the solenoid driver board J3 pin 10 goes to the "-" (negative) lead of capacitor C23. Is there any wire sitting in location pin 10 of the J3 connector housing?

Sounds like someone's bodged the connection up onto pin 1 instead of pin 10 for whatever reason. If the negative lead of C23 is floating, the 5 volt regulator will not be able to provide a stable +5V supply.

You should do the ground mods on the solenoid driver board - one of them is to connect the "-" (negative) lead of capacitor C23 to the main ground trace on the SDB for better redundancy.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Solenoid_Driver_Upgrades

Thank you for the reply, and you are correct.

After taking a fresh look at it this morning I realized that for whatever reason the wire was moved from pin 10 to 1 and installed the jumper on the board (so I know which is the correct board now that was in the game). The trace on pin 10 is fine so not sure why this was done.

The regulator went out on the original driver board and looks like they just stuck in another driver board without this "mod" which possibly created some other problems (problems with the MPU board as well).

I will also go ahead with the ground mods as well (I was reading up on that yesterday evening).

Cheers,

Lot's of little stuff to do, if you want your old Bally bulletproof:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-quick-bally-driver-board-repair-bulletproofing

I just picked up a working project Future Spa this past weekend. Planning on doing the hardtop and stencils for the body. If scans of the plastics are eventually done (cleaned up and/or vectorized) I'd be interested as well. I could use a fresh set. I'll probably try to flatten mine and clean them up; but having some nice new ones on a hardtopped playfield would look great.

I joined the club for $50 last weekend. Lots of cleaning, and lots more cleaning in my future. Some parts are arriving today. I'm excited to see what happens when I finally get to hit that power switch.

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Pic #2 is the money shot!

Don't hit the power switch until you replace the 2 big caps on the solenoid regulator board. If they have been sitting unpowered for years, they might be a dead short.

Also, on the CPU board, look at the bottom edge for corrosion that will need to be cleaned up. If there is still a NiCad battery soldered on the board, cut it off RIGHT NOW.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-quick-bally-driver-board-repair-bulletproofing

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stripping-battery-corrosion-with-a-strong-acid

Super curious about those inserts. Is there some kind of corrosion/build up over the black lettering for the letters in FUTURE?

Appreciate the links. I've already cut off the battery. The boards are easily the best part about the machine. Well the only good part really. I need to order the caps, read the bally driver board thread this morning.

When I vacuumed it either the letters came with it or they were already worn white.

The very back of an old dirty musty 1900's something building in Kansas.

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So I had a few beers tonight and couldn’t help myself from hitting that power switch after replacing the fuses. Got GI lights but no sound and the led on MPU did not flash for self test just went steady on. I’m just super pumped I got lights. Oh and btw it came with a full instruction booklet. Which by what it says, I need a new mpu according to the trouble shooting. Any tips on where to start? Self test button inside the coin door does nothing but that’s also one of the most corroded parts of the game.

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Sadly, those are just the General Illumination lights - they would probably work even if all the boards were missing from the backbox.

Do you have a volt meter?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-properly-ask-for-pinball-repair-help-vids-guide

Yeah I can get a hold of one or just go buy a new one finally. I read your thread on the Bally built proofing Vid. I should probably start there huh?

If you are going to own pins, you are going to need a meter.

This one is $12 at Sears, and is actually a really solid unit:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-multimeter-digital-with-8-functions-and-20/p-03482141000P?sid=IAx20050830x000545&aff=Y&PID=4485850&AID=11044874&utm_medium=1122587_4485850_11044874

I’m well aware of voltmeters. I own one it’s its just broken and I haven’t had the need to buy a new one until now.

If your broken one is a Fluke 10 or 12, you can use the free Harborfreight one to fix the nonworking buttons.

No it’s not sadly. It was a RadioShack one. Accidentally had it on Ohms checking voltage smoked the fuse and it apparently took the board with it.

With minimal investigating I think I’ve found the bad wiring in the pin. Some frayed wires on the back of the rectifier board are touching and melting/frying some stuff

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Double post

Can I become a SPA member? I've already paid my $800 membership. I'm new to pinball (well, after a 47 year hiatus). Picked up FUTURE SPA two months ago, followed by two other oldies but goodies. SPA was pretty messed up when I bought it. The backless had some lifted silkscreen but it was hanging on and all there. The play field was good with only some minor wear. The worst issues were all the hacks I found in the backbox and under the play field. Bit by bit I have troubleshot the problems and made repairs. I can safely say now that is is 100% working and correct. Only thing not original now are the lights. It is 90% converted to LED, keeping the warm original look (personally assembled warm white SMD's using old #44 and #47 bulb bases). This is my "go to" game of the 3 games I own. Fun as heck, great sounds, and somewhat challenging.

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So I just realized that my gate is apparently backwards like some of the other replys here. My left outlanes are set up as: Kick - Out/In - In - In. I'll figure out how to change the gate operation because I'd like it to be right. But what I also find different compared to the videos I have seen is that my upper rollovers "T" and "U" with the yellow arrows that open the gate, well my arrows alternate left and right as different points are scored. The videos all seem to show the two arrows on and off simultaneously. Something wrong with my game? Wired wrong, or a switch setting? EDIT-SOLVED: See below. Was a switch setting.

My T and U alternate like yours.

Found the reason...switch 16 on the MPU selects whether the T and U alternate or come on simultaneously....setting Conservative or Liberal. I just completed reorienting the gate to the OEM orientation, and have changed switch 16 to liberal setting. Also, if anyone's gate buzzes like in the PAPApinball linked video...it just needs a mechanical adjustment. If the gate is mechanically stopped before the solenoid pulls in the switch plate all the way to its stop, the solenoid will buzz.

I hear this is where the cool kids hang out.

Recently purchased a Future Spa, and have been spending a lot of my free time troubleshooting/restoring. Not quite up-and-running, but getting pretty close.

I'm actually getting to the point where I need to gather supplies for the cabinet restoration, and am in search of some leads on stencils to re-spray. If anyone has some instructional help on replacing the backglass with a hi-res vinyl print on a new pane of glass, I'd welcome that too.

Thanks in advance!

My son and I are in mid-restoration of our Future Spa. We purchased these stencils:

http://pinballpimpstencils.com/?page_id=2036

We've been told these are the best out there. We're almost ready to start painting, so we'll let you know.

As for the backglass, there are a number of threads here on making reproduction backglasses, translites or hybrids. Some are more sophisticated than others. YMMV. What's the status of yours?

Welcome to the Future. I spent many hours troubleshooting and repairing mine until it would play start and play correctly. Glad to help with specifics if I can.

You'll be very happy with those stencils.

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Hey guys I was troubleshooting my MPU board and decided to pop out U1 to check it out and it broke about 6 pins on the chip. Is there a place to get new 9316-A rom?

Unfortunately you can't buy programmed 9316 ROM. You'll have to replace your 9316's with programmed 2732 ROM and change the jumpers on your MPU.