Got this Future Spa the other day from a guy who had been playing the game since he was a kid at his Grandpa's house, although apparenlty after Grandpa died, the other siblings who knew how to open the game "did things to it."

In addition to Tin foil wrapped around several of the fuses, there was a BOLT in one of them. I found what I think is white-out in one place on the expansive board. The Backglass is complete- There are no missing pieces of paint- Yet. there are cracks, and the paint is sort of being held together by I'm' not sure what - On the bottom of the board where the ball in play, game over, tilt, etc are, they've taped the paint to backglass. I'm going to guess they must have done this taping fairly recently because that tape is not discolored, and seems to be holding in place so far. I don't want to continue down the road they did, I've seen what an entire backglass that was taped together looks like - I'd almost rather NOT have a backglass in the game! I know clear-coat is generally the accepted method, except that I wonder in this case how it's going to work since there are large chunks of the paint that appear to be de-laminated from the glass- almost like if you could lift up the paint, spray some adhesive and stick the paint back to the backglass. something tells me this isn't the first time this has happened to someone. Other than the backglass issue, and the Mud Dauber nests I found in the head, which I dispatched with the shop-vac, the game seems to be okay physically.

I used the Bally repair guides to help me narrow it down to BR3, which I replaced, and the game worked fine - except that I hadn't gotten the score units to work yet, the game came up in attract mode, I played a test game - mostly with my fingers, since the board was REALLY gross. I'm half way done with the strip/polish/wax/rubberize/bulb, process, but that damned BR3 went out again. This is the third time actually which is why I mention it. First time, I guess I don't know why. it was bad when I got the game. I put one in that was close to the same size- it was what they had at Radio Shack, it was the same size package, so I mounted to the back of the board with the other ones. The guide talks about replacing the diodes with larger ones, and leaving a little room for them to give off some heat. I replaced MY BR3 with a D25XB, a 1000 @ 25A. That one lasted for that test game, and a little more, but the next day I started the game up and it was back to missing that last flash. I suppose it's possible that I didn't use a large enough heat sink for my replacement Br, but I was told by some some engineers at work that the smaller heat sinks that I had would be okay if I mounted one on the front and on on the back of the thing. It all just barely fits, but it was fine like I said, for a night. I guess I'll replace it again, since I need to do bulb, switch, etc tests with this game.

Does anyone know why my BR2 might be getting blown out other than possibly bad replacement component (I got it from a suplus store - I have two more that I was going to use to replace the other BRs, but I'm going to concentrate onthis side of the board first!

Oops. It that was a typo.

The game was playing, no locked on coils, You'd think if there was a dead short it would have popped a circuit breaker or fuse - Did I mention I took to using a circuit breaker on that F4 because it kept blowing out? I unplugged, and turned om the game in the order that it says, until the only thing connected to the board was the input, which still popped the breaker. So it says replace BR3 & or VR1. If Radio Shack had had the Varistor Id'd have it.

How do you check VR1? The document says if it's bad it'll be Noticeably physically damaged. Is there another way to test that?

Yes, I'd just assume get the whole pack of whatever components would usually be swapped out on this board. I was using the parts that I had available at the time. It seemed like they would be big enough from the specs, but I guess better bigger than smaller..

Now, are these the smaller ones like originally mount on the board? Or are the a larger package that you have to dog-leg the leads, or somehow get them to fit?

half done stripping to playfield, Shampoo, cut and Trim- Wait, Clean & Polish, replace the rubbers, clean the posts, and everything else, clean, and put the glass back on with a new ball in there, and spread my arms wide, because this baby's a BBP!

-Brian

Well, that's why I haven't done anything with it yet and am asking what the consensus is. It sounds like the worst problem is if you use that method and then have your game subject to extreme changes in temperature. I live in Florida, so as long as I have the game, that shouldn't be a problem (wild fast flux anyway) Florida has other issues though, before I put the AC in my garage, for years and years anything I'd put in there would rust away to nothing quickly. I live close to water. My pins seem to be fairing nicely in the enclosed climate controlled garage-turned-mancave.

Next time I'm down there I'll snap a pic of the thing. I don't think I have one in my phone presently.

-Brian

Accepted method?

Mm.. I guess I wasn't very careful with my words there. What meant to say, was I've seen some videos on the subject where they mask off the score windows with mylar or something, and sprayed it with - Varathane? I don't recall the exact product that was used in the video I saw, well, like I said I saw a couple on youtube talking about it, and I thought I'd read posts elsewhere on the net talking about that method as well.

And, the backglass isn't THAT far gone, why I haven't done anything with it yet and am asking what the consensus is before I do anything with it.

It sounds like the worst problem is if you use that method and then have your game subject to extreme changes in temperature. I live in Florida, so as long as I have the game, that shouldn't be a problem (wild fast flux anyway) Florida has other issues though, before I put the AC in my garage, for years and years anything I'd put in there would rust away to nothing quickly. I live close to water. My pins seem to be fairing nicely in the enclosed climate controlled garage-turned-mancave.

Next time I'm down there I'll snap a pic of the thing. I don't think I have one in my phone presently.

The thing is, these kids TAPED the botom of the back glass with clear packing tape. Seems to me the thing is FUBAR anyway as far as a collector is going to want it - Future Spa isn't exactly an EBD realm title anyway. I doubt that tape is coming off without a significant amount of the backglass paint. I mean, hell, the cabinet was painted black. The game is definitely in "Players" condition. I just thought it'd be neat to have a wide body game -- except that only a week later a lady sold me her Circus for $150. It has flaking issues, worse than the Future Spa, but at least nobody has done any "Office supply" repairs to the backglass.

Since it has the tape what's the answer? Spray what's left and pray things don't get worse and keep an eye out for another one?

-Brian

Apparently the backglass didn't like the last "cold snap" we had, I think it got down to 55 one night. Anyway, just above where the last guy taped the worst of the glass, there is delamination to the point of flaking. It's all still one "slab" - which is why I have some crazy idea about just putting super glue underneath it, and laying a book on top of it. Well, maybe something with wax paper, and somehow either getting the paint to re-adhere to the glass, with some sort of glass, or the other way to go is have something on the back side of the paint to hold it together. No matter what which way I go it's not going to be idea. Since the tape job has already been started, I'm of the mind to just continue where he left off.

If I don't do SOMETHING, the next time I mount the backglass on the machine, I'm pretty sure the piece that is now about 1/4" curled off the glass will interfere with the lights, and wood moldings behind the backglass. Speak now, and give me a better option - please! I just don't see leaving it alone as a GOOD option at this point. If the backglass hadn't been messed with, I could see going some other route, but since it's in essence been ruined, I don't see how I have anything to lose!

-Brian

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I ended up using some way over-rates ones that I got from skycraft in Orlando. I bought all they had. I think I got 4 of them at $3 a piece. They're a different form factor - All four pins are in-line. I stuck a little heat sink in it, and It's been working for a week now.

The backglass is what I'm concerned about. I got the score displays working- except for one that appears broken - it doesn't lite at all.

The sound board workes when you start a game, but nearly any physical movement causes the board to either quit altogether, or sometimes just stop playing the background tone, or sometimes, it makes one continuous tone. But it seems to relate to physical bumping. Strange thiugh, because just pressure in chips, the board, and connectors doesn't seem to cause the problem- it's anything more than a slight "whap!" Will cause it. Shaking the machine almost always causes the sound to act flakey. I did notice someone has doubled up on one of the caps here.. shouldn't they be in series though?

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Hypothetically- if I did continue this guys "Tape Job" does anyone have any suggestions on tape to get? I would only do the absolutely necessary - But if there is a better method, maybe like I said, inject some super glue under the paint and set a book on it.

I really could use some advice other than just leave it.

If I take it that the glass is destroyed anyway, I mean, there is no chance of getting the old tape off.. Then does it really matter that much?

-Brian

I found some "long lasting" Ha. 3M packing tape, and CAREFULLY continued the taping job that my predecessor began. Turned out pretty good. It's nice to see the backglass back in the game.

Now if only the game's electronics would stabilize. It's like electronic whack-a-mole. I get one component fixed, and another one goes to hell. Game starts now, but no controlled Lighting. GI is fine, but anyting the CPU is in control of is dark. Maybe it's a fuse under the playfield. Just discovered it this evening.

Doh*. I already posted this!!
-Brian

Okay. The backglass is what it is. At least I don't have to fool with it, or being careful not to continue the cracking and flaking.

I put a cap kit in the sound card, and replaced the header, as well as the molex plug. Fun getting two wires crimped into one terminal. So, all is well, except that after the game starts this high pitched hissing after a while in attract mode. It doesn't seem to happen when the game is playing, and if you start a game, the hissing sound stops, and it starts playing normal sounds.

any ideas?

-B