(Topic ID: 143699)

Fuse Test?

By Scout

7 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 7 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by KenH
  • No one calls this topic a favorite


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    #1 7 years ago

    When I look at a fuse & the inside wire looks like it's at an angle but meters closed at 0002.. is it still good? Thanks for answering my dumb questions.

    #2 7 years ago

    Yes, if there is continuity through a fuse it is good.

    #3 7 years ago

    This is on my Shaq Attaq... thank you. I can't figure out why the ball doesn't kick out to plunger & all the playfield lights go off & then on (only when no game is playing) & I hear a click.

    I can move the coil manually & the wires seem to be ok. Any ideas? I've asked in another post but didn't have much luck. I appreciate all your ideas.

    #4 7 years ago

    Does the game boot fine and try to start a game? If you kick the ball out by hand can you play everything else in the game? Did the game use to work for you and stopped or did you inherit this issue with the game?

    I just want to make sure the problem is really localized to just this coil.

    Also, using the service switches in the coin door put it in coil test mode. If all of the other coils fire then more needs to be traced. Starting with the wires in the plugs coming loose as the easiest issue to coil or the driving transistor.

    #5 7 years ago

    When I got the game nothing came on but when I pushed in or pulled out the bottom white button on the inside of the door the backbox lights... dmd... score board & coin door lights came on but nothing else. Not sure if replacing a bad 6 amp fuse with a correct 10 amp down near the transfomer made the game work but the pf lights did come on & I could insert a quarter to get credits & play a game... the 1st ball did kick out but after that... I need to manually pull back the coil & push the ball up into play. The game plays normal & when a ball drops in a holetter it gets kicked out with that particular coil.

    I added a few pictures. I noticed there is a button on the inside of the right coin return but I see the wires are unhooked. (Circled)

    Thanks tons Taxman


    2015-11-07 19.19.41.jpg

    #6 7 years ago

    OK, well this is not good. If it was a working game that developed an issue we could narrow it down. But getting a non-working project is a different animal and a bigger project than just a simple check this or that. And you have a good change of making things worse. The fact that you found and underrate fuse means a previous owner did not care to do something right.

    The white button you pulled out might be an Interlock switch. This shuts down certain high power lines when the coin door is open. The switch looks like a coin switch. Many are found cut or disconnected. I don't know why.

    First, I hope you checked the CPU for any previous battery leakage and replace. The set the game to free play. While debugging a game you don't want to run out of credits the think the game id not coining up.

    I'm not big on the Gottlieb System 3 games so I would start here http://www.pinrepair.com/sys3/ . But from the start before even turning the game on again I would go through and check every fuse. Continuity and Value. EVERY fuse. Bottom of cabinet, under playfield, on the boards . . . Make sure the holders grip the fuses nice and tight.

    There might be a good guide to working your way through the system checking voltages at test points. First, get a manual. I don't have one for this game so I can't look up specifics for you.

    #7 7 years ago
    Quoted from Taxman:

    The white button you pulled out might be an Interlock switch. This shuts down certain high power lines when the coin door is open.

    The interlock switch on System 3 cuts power to the entire game. It's a worthless feature. I'd much prefer the cut to high power coils, like Stern does.


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